Zaopin Z2. BOOST by turbobitbox (ENG subs)
Today we are modding the Zaopin z2. battery replacement, bring into good the view, well, it's business as usual. Although I will say up front, a mouse even from the factory - quite a bit not bad In order to disassemble the mouse, all we have to do is take off the lower leg. Find a convenient location and we're gonna drill a little bit. Add a little alcohol, go a little deeper and that's it, the leg's off.
Next, we unscrew three screws on the bottom of the mouse. To disconnect halves, it's gonna take some efforts. There are two latches on the left and right.
There's a lot of the finger is a very hard latch. This is where you need to put a little bit of force, a little bit of pressure and a little bit to hollow out the mouse, to make a small gap. Using this gap, we need to the top half a little bit move it forward. This is where it starts to get disjointed.
In order to to fully separate the halves, it's gonna take some effort, but you have to be careful, because there's a loop inside. If it's too harsh if you pull, you could tear this one plume. It doesn't have a locking mechanism, you just grab the the blue part and carefully you pull it out with a rocking motion. Side button board holding the two screws, unscrew them. and we're looking at white huano.
Okay, and here we have the one, gorgeous in my opinion, mycricket swap system. By the way, I have a TTC Gold dust from the factory proof of 60 million presses. By the way, after replacing it leaves marks like this. Don't be too hard on yourself twist it, you could damage the legs. microswitch. In this mouse, we'll be sure to we're gonna have to replace the battery, so we take it and we take it down.
Here's what it looks like, by the way our hotswap system. So we've got a microcricket it's coming out this side and we're screw it down. I think it's a great system. By the way, I don't really I like the fact that when you remove the button is bending this part very badly.
It affects the click itself. By the way, please note attention, there's a soft damper. This side, too.
For that, I would give a great deal of credit. Side design of buttons on one side is good, and on the other hand, not so much. What's the upside? Well, compared to some modern mice, here.
there are travel limiters. I mean, if I can at least utilize some dampers in order to this move to somehow shorten or mitigate. That said, the buttons are quite wide.
This is to ensure that I could've gotten the backside put a Band-Aid on it. However, there is a slight problem. This is the removal of the buttons themselves from the case. That's the way it is. That's how it was from the factory.
So, in order to get the side ones out. buttons need to be pushed this tongue. Make sure you don't overdo it.
He might just break off if excessive force is applied efforts. And only after that the side buttons are coming out. There's a pretty big the halo, so the dampers should be taped off. like superlight doesn't will be no problem. All in all, the disassembly of the mouse is complete. I'll clearly demonstrate, in than the problem of the side buttons.
The problem is the same as in past the Lamzu Atlantis video. You can check out the link in the description. This is where we're gonna anchor ourselves with a screw through it. For demonstration purposes, maybe I'll use Huano Red Dot.
These are the toughest microswitch of the of all the Huano's at the moment. Note the indication. This is where the microswitch is a little closer to the edge. Because of that, we're gonna have to do a little file the tappet of the side mouse buttons.
If we leave our hometowns the microswitch, then this is where everything it's gonna be fine. That leaves us with two options. In a previous video with Lamzu. we glued the microswitch in line for so you don't have to saw the tappet.
In this one, we're going to do the opposite. We'll just directly fix with the screws on this mickey, and then we'll remove the screws for to avoid adding overweight. We'll file the pusher later. There's a lot of extra on the bottom of the mouse plastic elements, and the board itself it's only held together by these pins. And this is all this, this, this, this, this, this.
it's, uh, it's all ribs. In this case, in fact, they are not needed, because the bottom plate is very thick and those stiffeners are his don't actually perform a function. A little behind-the-scenes from me the bottom of the hull remains to be worked on.
To equalize the weight of my with a basic mouse, it's a little bit lightweight GPRO X Superlight. So, uh, I'm a little worked on the bottom of this mouse. First of all, as I've said before of this, I cut away all the excess the baffles on the bottom of the mouse, and second of all, I've been drilling to the depths of this of the balloon, which means I've removed quite a bit a lot of plastic. All in all it took about one, a little over one gram weight. At first, I was drilling with a balloon, and then on the entire plane.
on the mouse, I've already taken all that stuff off. In order for our aluminum tape adhered well, we're gonna use a primer. The primer is applied fairly so liberally, apply from the sides, and we're waiting according to of the stipulated instruction. It's important to note, it's not foil duct tape, specifically aluminum tape, aluminum foil with an adhesive layer.
We add tape on a few sides and gently crumple it up, not too much. About the wheel, originally, along with the wheel had two washers on it. On top of this washer there was another one, a second one. The second puck we take out is for the purpose there was no tire under too much tension and had no trouble pressing it. Because the thickness of this tape here is gonna be level the thickness that puck we took out.
This modification comes in addition to the wheel. This is the part that is over the wheel hub, which is at the microswitch. So we're gonna go back use aluminum tape. Here in my particular it comes in two layers. In your case. the number of layers can vary.
Beforehand, she was degreased, processed. As for the battery. In Zaopin's original battery.
used quite a bit flat and thin battery. I'm going to use the easier option. I have in this particular the moment in the video, the battery from G pro Wireless. You can also find more lighter version, such as 150 mAh.
And a mouse with that battery will, on average. live 2 - 2.5 of the day. In order to use the native plastic connector from Zaopin, I had to use terminals jST-1.25.
Initially, however, it is too big. So I had to give her a little file on a grinding disk with the sides and a little more on top and underneath. And only after that did she it's back to normal. Otherwise, she's we just can't get in. And by and large, you can it's a lot easier to do, cut three wires from the old one of the battery and solder to the new battery.
It's a lot easier. It's a pretty important one right now in my opinion, an improvement. This mouse from the factory uses tappet covers of very soft plastic. Not only that, but she herself is moving in its own grooves, because she's and less than you need. And from literally anyone, literally.
minimal impact it scratches and warps. I'll tell you from personal experience, that it's affecting the click-through rate. not in a good way.
Touching, turning this material in your hands, I can tell you it's more like on the Teflon that wear out very quickly in normal use. Well, it's time to change these pads. We'll use Logitech's donor ones. Also in the vastness AliExpress sells ready-made sliced hard plastic overlays. I'm gonna glue it on thin double-sided Tesa Scotch tape. You have to look at the thickness, maybe it's gonna take more than one, and, for example, two layers, and it is necessary to also to sharpen everything at an angle, so that nothing scratches the microswitch.
I'm sharpening everything to size so that nothing it didn't go anywhere, and it stayed put. Despite the fact that there's this the kind of damper that I praised at the very beginning of the video, it's unfortunately not helping at all and stay away from the plate buttons. So once again, we're going to be use double-sided tape, glue a little closer to the front of the mouse, right next to this one the damper plate, and we're gonna be use Poralon without the memory effect. Here he'll already be
is noticeably higher. What about the horizontal backlash? There are small protrusions that I cut off I don't want to. The smaller the contact area, the it'll be easier to slide. That's why, with the additional I'm gonna use an aluminum ribbon. And I'm the one I'll use both sides. This is
the configuration of my particular mouse. You you might need, like one layer on one side, or two layers on both sides and so hereafter. I mean, for every specific backlash dimensions the materials used will be different.
In order for everyone nice and chipper here. it was slippery, we'll use Teflon powder. Vet's got Teflon lubrication. We're gonna use of various instruments, cotton swabs and and so on, little by little. rub it in. There's a huge
the amount of powder is completely unnecessary. We just need to rub it in the surface and afterward, when we rub it in, calmly deflate. Now we can reassemble a mouse. You have to be careful. The plates are very thin and very delicate. И
when removing it, you must first and then pushing forward. In order to make sure that nothing bent and the click didn't deteriorated and didn't become either too light or too tight. Dampers under main buttons a little short, so we're gonna be to use a non-woven patch like this, this configuration along with with kapton tape. That I've got one of these billet. This is all of course dabbling, but why not?) it has nothing to do with the fixation in the mouse. will have an impact. Without that kind of trimmings, it's not
and let them have it. We're also gonna have to sharpen these two places with a file. You have to sharpen it literally a fraction at a time millimeters, two or three strokes at a time, two or three movements at a time, no more. Unfortunately, there isn't any fixed the depth to which you're gonna have to grind it all down. All of this is selected by experience. Two or three moves - tried on.
Two or three moves - tried on. We've got the sideburns they're done pretty quickly. Stick it in the right places a band-aid here and here. And just in case, we'll also be use foam without memory effect, to make sure that time doesn't dent anything, or and it's been sagging and it's been clicking perfectly. By the way, too much there's no need to stuff the foam.
Otherwise, he'll be too push the button hard and it'll will be permanently clamped condition, or it's going to be too easy to press.
2024-12-28 05:30
