The Joy Of Touring 03of13 Vietnam
so today joy of touring promises a wealth of new experiences in this south asian country bordered by china laos and cambodia this s-shaped country extends the entire length of the eastern coast of the continent at one time when we thought about this country war was the first image that came to mind its lengthy struggle for reunification sealed its fate for decades but today the war is but a bad memory beaches and tourism were the road to a new beginning a door to the modern world joy of touring invites you on the road in vietnam our tour of vietnam will take us from the north to the south among the places we will visit hanoi the capital halong bay hoi an and ho chi minh the largest city in the country it was a long flight but we have finally landed in hanoi the capital of vietnam with a population of 90 million vietnam ranks number 14 on the list of the world's most populated countries largely vietnamese the khmer cham and hmong also make up a significant part of the population although vietnamese is considered to be the country's official language there are no less than 54 languages and dialects spoken throughout the country but we will have no trouble getting by in english as many of the signs posted in the larger cities include english translations hanoi literally the city beyond the river located on the right bank of the red river is the historical heart of the country even though it's not the largest of vietnam cities it holds a special place in the hearts of the vietnamese ho chi minh declared the country's official independence here in 1945 and it was the headquarters of the resistance to the americans during the vietnam war it is thus the best place to begin our journey our first stop is both historical and cultural we are following in the footsteps of ning sing kong better known as ho chi minh for the vietnamese ho chi minh which translates as he who enlightens is a liberator a source of inspiration founder of the indochinese communist party it is he who led the country to its independence from france after world war ii uncle ho as the vietnamese affectionately referred to him continues to enjoy much respect and love from his people dead now for more than 40 years his embalmed body remains on display in this mausoleum despite his wishes to be cremated the country wanted to pay him significant homage and decided otherwise not far away the last place ho chi minh lived is open to visitors he lived here for a few years before his death in 1969. it's a very modest house located in a magnificent park overlooking a lake for a man of his importance one might have expected an enormous palace yet here everything says honesty and simplicity even his desk is completely without pretension ho chi minh the father of modern vietnam is admired for his determination for him the liberation of south vietnam was just as important as the building of socialism in the north in 1965 while the united states were invading north vietnam ho chi minh not only led the vietnamese revolution but he was also the hero in all the national liberation movements after seeing ho chi minh's house it's time for us to check in at our own residence in the capital while in hanoi we'll be staying at the mong tan hotel this charming four-star hotel is at the center of one of the city's most lively areas so we're definitely in the right place if we want to check out the local nightlife scene the rooms are spacious and beautiful everything is set for our stay in the vietnamese capital at the beginning of this day we're already well on our way with our vietnamese itinerary we'll be visiting one of the best known places in the world the magnificent halong bay halong bay is in the gulf of tonkin right on the border of china and vietnam from hanoi we'll drive about 150 kilometers by coach on the roads our driver exhibits olympian calm surrounded by hundreds of scooters and motorcycles that keep zigzagging to get ahead he seems perfectly at ease with a situation that seems to be ruled more by instincts than by the signs or the lines of the road all in all we feel safe and with our noses stuck to the windows we look on fascinated after a few hours on the road we can finally see the emerging seascape of halong bay we are all really excited about sailing this famous bay all the more so because we'll be spending the night here on the pier a small shuttle waits to bring us to our junk hotel a junk is a sailboat in the far east here it is both for transportation and serves as a tourist residence it is by far the nicest way to enjoy the unique experience of sleeping right in the middle of the bay halong bay is an extraordinary natural heritage being able to spend the night here is a real dream come true and our rooms on board are very comfortable as well halong bay stretches into the waters of the gulf of tonkin and covers an area of just over 1 500 square kilometers it's equivalent to sao paulo brazil's largest city the bay consists of exactly 1969 islands and islets only half of which have been named according to local legend halong bay meaning descending dragon was forged by a mother dragon and her children who were sent by the gods to help the viet people fight the enemy during the battle the dragons spit out pearls which then became the thousands of stone islands emerging from the sea we are not alone in this spectacular setting several other junks that like us have decided to take advantage of this beautiful landscape float nearby the many islands are also peppered with caves among the best known and most visited the sunset the cave of surprises definitely worth the trip our shuttle brings us to the mouth of the enormous cavity that has been carved into the stone french sailors gave the grotto its nickname of cave of surprises with its surprising 30 meter high ceilings the largest cave in the bay certainly bears its name it's so beautiful it's easy to see why the cave is on unesco's world heritage list this site has been adapted to accommodate the thousands of visitors that come from all over the world a suitable dock for disembarking stairs a nice terrace everything has been well thought out a light show that suits this natural setting makes this an absolutely amazing and breathtaking tour after exhausting halong bay we get back on board our shuttle to meet up again with the junk where we'll be spending the night tonight we will dine on a delicious seafood meal accompanied by an equally delicious sunset waking up this morning the scene is magical we're still in the middle of halong bay surrounded by hundreds of rocky outcrops looking at the other boats around us we can imagine what it might have been like to sail in the time of pirates in fact the islands long served as a haven for bandits it's easy enough to lose oneself in this mountainous labyrinth given that the place is full of caves and hidden spots before heading back out on the road we'll have a last look at some of the places where pirates may very well have hidden from the authorities this time we'll travel the old-fashioned way no motors just good old paddling since we're guests all we have to do is sit back and enjoy being steered by an expert the bay's shallow waters make it impossible for motor boats to approach the caves are fascinating we can cross right through the mountain from underneath just as easily if we were going through a man-made tunnel even though historically shady sailors were long time responsible for running things in the area there's no trace of their passage left today except for these hiding places where our imagination often runs wilder than historical fact it's time to say goodbye to our rocky paradise in halong bay and to continue our journey along the roads of vietnam leaving our floating hotel we make a first stop in halong city just on the edge of the bay of the same name this area is well known for its pearl farms along pearls are considered to be the most perfect by jewelry standards a specific grafting technique makes these remarkable pearls the envy of many among those who proudly wear halong pearls are the queen of england elizabeth ii and the american politician condoleezza rice before going into the store we get a quick presentation about the industry and more importantly how to avoid getting swindled by unscrupulous merchants once we have the theory down we're ready for a shopping spree where all of our dreams are possible well almost back aboard our coach we're headed to our next stopover the city of nin bin nin bin is located in the south of the country a little less than 200 kilometers from the bay once in the city we head straight for the legend a four-star hotel located just steps away from many of the most interesting parts of the city but our first tour of the area will not be on foot instead we'll travel on one of vietnam's most typical forms of transport oxwagon in this land of rice fields and farmers oxen have always been used as a means of transport and as an agricultural tool in the south of the country oxen races are held every year drawing thousands of spectators from all over vietnam we won't be racing today however our trip will consist of a short visit to the area to gaze at the scenery surrounding the city of nin bin back at the hotel it's time for cocktails by the fabulous pool with a glass in hand we are already reviewing our trip even though we still have much to do and see we're extremely happy with our journey so far tomorrow we'll continue to explore the ninbin region the sky looks a little iffy this morning but the gray clouds seem to want to disappear as the sun struggles to make its appearance this is the perfect time to stay close to our hotel and watch the vietnamese in their daily lives to better blend in with the landscape a bicycle is a good way to roam the streets and alleyways of the area just look around there aren't many cars to be seen the sun won it's time to resume our tour and get back on the road our next stop is a small village located very close to nin bin will visit the bishdong pagoda nicknamed pearl cave at first glance we can see a monument in the slope of the mountain a remarkably natural sight a small lake mountains and large trees seem to protect the pagoda from the outside world after meeting a fishing family and crossing a small stone bridge the site opens up pagoda cave and mountain blend harmoniously with the landscape lending bishdong a unique air of meditation and mystery when at the beginning of the 18th century two buddhist priests traveled across the country to spread their religion they passed bishodon and built three pagodas on three different levels of the mountain to get to the other levels you must climb many stairs the higher you go the more you can see the temple on the three levels of the mountain the pagodas are as breathtaking as the view that they offer with its century-old pagodas majestic trees and towering mountain marked by mystery the pearl cave site is gorgeous after climbing to the very top we'll continue to explore the area on lower ground after cycling the ox wagon and the junk will now explore our surroundings aboard a small fishing boat we are in the valley of tongnang not far from where we have just been at bishdon there is nothing very touristy here no hotels no souvenir shops not even any restaurants truthfully there are only a few fishermen and women here and there and that is exactly what has attracted us this large flooded area surrounded by rice fields is for the time being almost completely untouched and intact we go off for a few hours of silent discovery and observation of the natural countryside it's a moment of pure bliss the ride is done in tandem one person pushes the pole with another rowing all around us larger than life landscapes are linked together broken up only when we go through a tunnel with almost no natural light and only our camera flashes to guide us through the dark we are aware of just how small we are in relation to the nature that surrounds us it's when we start seeing a few houses here and there that we reconnect with civilization this boat excursion was extremely relaxing a true zen oasis on our joyful tour once back on the bus reality catches up with us we travel through a charming little village where the bustle of daily life is in stark contrast to the tranquil landscapes we have just left far from the buzz of the big cities but still light years away from the countryside we find ourselves on route to another temple the sino-vietnamese cathedral of fat diem this large catholic church was built towards the end of the 19th century overlooking a lake the church is held up by 48 huge wooden columns behind the cathedral the bell rings for the village announcing celebrations and other important events that are taking place in order to hoist the bell into the bell tower a large dirt ramp had to be built once the construction was finished the earth was spread out all around the cathedral raising at approximately one meter and thus protecting it from any possible flooding inside the cathedral the altar carved from a single block of granite is ornamented with many gold leaves and representations of the different catholic saints the effect is nothing short of outstanding we leave the fat diem cathedral to have lunch at a small shrine of vietnamese gastronomy for here food is almost on par with religion even though methods and ingredients may vary from region to region vietnamese cooking is very strict the rules are well established to better understand the subtlety of the meal we're about to eat a short explanation is necessary damian after our friendly and succulent meal we continue our journey towards the hotel where we'll spend the night along the way we make a quick stop at a local market to say that we are completely disoriented is an understatement the market bears no resemblance to our supermarkets or corner grocery stores back home fish are laid out on the ground vegetables and herbs are heaped in piles and the seafood roams semi-free even though sushi's japanese we can see how popular it also is with the vietnamese as seen in this window we finish our day at the hotel montan part of the same chain of hotels where we spent our first night in hanoi this four-star hotel is a welcome blessing at the end of our busy day after all our outdoor activities and forages into the countryside a little luxury and comfort feels very nice here we are well rested and ready for another exciting day in vietnam today we'll continue south to ho chi minh city where we'll spend the day in the donghoy area to see the caverns that are over 400 million years old the fong na ke bang national park was officially created in early 2000's what is distinctive about this park is that we come here to see what is not immediately noticeable the park is actually a large network of underwater rivers and caverns estimated to cover an area of more than 100 kilometers to date scientists have barely cataloged a quarter of the area in just a few years this beautiful park has become a major player in world tourism the renowned national times recently placed it on its prestigious annual list of must-see destinations it goes without saying that such a distinction has led to a large flow of visitors the hospitality and guided tours are however very well organized and the locals are grateful for the financial boom more than a thousand vietnamese found jobs thanks to the park like these boat operators and these boats that bring us into the caverns after a short ride the sounds of our motors are replaced with the sounds of waves laughing as we enter one of the park's caverns our guide removes the canvas cover that was protecting us from the sun so we can better see our surroundings we are in the largest known cave in the country depending on our location the ceiling can be anywhere from 10 to 40 meters high the stalactites and stalagmites are very impressive and the different colored lights lend to a certain magnitude to the space but what is more fascinating are the stories that our guy tells us as we drift along the charm people one of vietnam's ethnic groups held buddhist shrines in the recesses of the cave in the last century the caves were also used as a hospital and armory during the vietnam war reminders of the americans bombing still scar the entrance to the cave we are captivated by this tour immersed in the majestic setting of the caves and the images that emerge from the stories being told the silence gives way to the roar of the engine a sound that brings us back to reality it's time to get back on the road to discover yet another vietnamese wonder this time the treasure's not made of stone or wood we find ourselves at the door of an orphanage where dozens of little gems ask only to be noticed our guide wants to bring our attention to a very important cause one that's not featured on traditional tourist circuits sos children's village donghoy is a center that houses approximately 200 of the country's orphans in operation for almost 12 years now the children's development and well-being are at the center's main objective if the children aren't adopted they'll live here until they are of age to find work it's impossible to be unmoved by all these little eyes watching us and it's clear to all that we are merely visiting and not potential adoptive parents we can however adopt the cause make a donation give them some love and encourage them with our best smile we are grateful for having had the chance to see a place full of happy children and that in itself is no small victory leaving the orphanage we head to our hotel in donghuo the sun spa resort is a little slice of paradise on the edge of the south china sea a memorable evening as promised at this four-star palace with its luxurious lobby and dream-like pool after a wonderful night spent by the sea we are back on the road to continue our all-inclusive tour of vietnam continuing our descent towards the south our route will take us among others to the cities of huay and vinmuk after a hundred kilometers along the south china sea we arrive at our first destination the city of vinmuk to fully grasp the significance of the day we're about to experience we have to make a short trip back in time and understand some of the stakes involved in the vietnam war briefly the war featured two distinct sides north vietnam which was supported by the eastern bloc and the vietcong and south vietnam whose allies included united states south korea and thailand it was following the first indochina war that the country was divided into two diametrically opposing parts the north and the south it was this difference in ideologies that thrust the country into such terrible conflict here in vinmuk american bombs almost entirely decimated the city in order to survive the inhabitants went underground almost 40 families totaling 300 people piled in down here the heat down here is overbearing each family had only a four meter square space to themselves the equivalent of a small bathroom each small room was linked to the others by a series of tunnels that led to common areas there was even a nursery history records that 17 children were born down here in all this underground city sheltered its inhabitants for nearly six years hard to imagine after only a few minutes we are already feeling signs of claustrophobia once we emerge we head for another symbolically important place during the war the hyena luang bridge on the 17th parallel it was here following the geneva accords of 1954 that the country was separated into two distinct parties the democratic republic of vietnam in the north and the republic of vietnam in the south the bridge crosses the benhair river where the bridge spans the water the river is only 170 metres wide in accordance with the geneva accord this was the official partition between the two vietnams thus during the entire conflict each side possessed 89 meters of the bridge each half serving as a border but the americans bombed and completely destroyed the bridge during the war however it was restored in early 2000 on the south shore a monument was erected in memory of the national reunification we leave this sad page in the history of the country to get back on board our coach we have another 100 kilometers to go to get to hue and its majestic imperial city at first glance there is a distinct feeling of deja vu something is indeed familiar about this place hawaii's imperial city was built according to the plans of peking's imperial city even though the architecture and size are different the resemblance is striking built on the banks of the perfume river the citadel is surrounded by a wide moat on a nearly 10 kilometer perimeter to get inside the citadel we cross through a dozen fortified gates each equipped with its own bridge once inside we find two distinct areas the imperial city and the purple forbidden city the purple forbidden city was exclusively reserved for the emperor and his family unfortunately the citadel was bombed and significantly damaged during the war despite this all the buildings have remained fairly well preserved declared a world heritage site by unesco in 1993 the citatel's wealth and grandeur are on full display inside an imperial museum exhibits a part of the emperor's wardrobe the city of hawaii we abandon our coach for a highly effective mode of transport the rickshaw it's a tricycle intended to transport people or merchandise over time it has become a taxi and a tourist favorite so this shall be our limousine to our next accommodations the chic hotel residence in hue since the beginning of our journey all of our hotels have been fabulous and the residence is no exception we are in an enchanting boutique hotel once we have dropped off our luggage we leave right away to end our day in style tonight we have been invited to an imperial supper we head to the green hotel for the evening once there the evening's organizers take over our party tonight's meal is sure to be memorable after a short explanation we are taken to a room to put on our ceremonial outfits our imperial supper will be authentic and we will dine with the emperor and his wife who are in fact two members of our group the rest of us will make up the emperor's royal court we are his loyal subjects after doning our silk costumes we are ready for a short procession to lead us to the dining room where our sumptuous meal will be served accompanied by pages and musicians it is to a backdrop of traditional music that we make our way across the grand hall to the dining room it is both magical and festive we take this opportunity to immortalize our evening with a royal photo we are very surprised in the dining room the emperor and his wife hold the place of honor the tone is set this evening we celebrate tradition and decorum after the meal we're entitled to a musical performance featuring vietnamese dance so we have come to the final leg of our journey in vietnam and we have a very big day ahead of us we are on the road direction hoi on approximately 125 kilometers away afterwards it will be by air that we travel to ho chi minh city at the very south end of the country our first stop this morning is just outside of hoi on we are expected at hoi on eco tours to go fishing with the local fishing population hoyan is surrounded by a magnificent river teeming with fish that empties into the south china sea here many of the inhabitants live off of fishing and tourism it is with them that we will spend part of our mourning to get to the boat that will bring us out to the fishermen we'll use small traditional boats they are small basket boats called tung chai the fishermen love the tung chais because they are easy to use they are spacious easily transported and stored and best of all they can easily birth on land in short there are many advantages to this little boat as well as being a very fun way to get around one two so off we go in tong-chai to join our expert fishermen once they show us how to fish we're invited on board with them along the way our guide explains what we are to expect on our expedition once on site we'll once again change boats and get to work catching fish but we won't be fishing with poles today we'll be capturing our prey with nets our expert fisherman shows us how it's done once the net is folded properly we must make a half turn and toss the net high up in the air so that it will fall unfolding properly once it's in the water we draw it back out seems easy enough but it requires quite a bit of coordination to get the net to unfurl just so even though the results are mixed and we are far from a miraculous hall we are still very proud of our catch on the way back our guide demonstrates some of their skills before launching into a race back to the beach back on land we continue chatting with our fisherman friends before leaving we draw an enormous net from the water using an ingenious system it is with much feeling that we say goodbye to this friendly region of the country before heading to the airport to catch a plane to ho chi minh city formerly saigon in the biggest city in the country we'll spend our last night on a cruise ship we're invited to a private reception where we will once more clink glasses and toast the roads the cities and the inhabitants of vietnam from north to south from east to west vietnam is open and welcomes visitors to share in its endless treasures although the war has left some deep scars the vietnamese have moved forward and show the world a unified country whose fabulous landscape phenomenal cuisine and beautiful people have overcome the memories of the atrocities of the war vietnam is now more than ever an easily accessible destination with all the ingredients needed to make this the trip of your dreams you
2021-06-20 23:51
