ROBERT MAKŁOWICZ WŁOCHY odc.99 „ W Trydencie ".
This is an olive tree, dear friends. The olive tree is one of the most important symbols of the area known as the Mediterranean. However, in today's episode, we will see that olive trees grow beyond the Mediterranean Sea itself. Monini is the partner of this episode. Producer of extra virgin olive oil. [AUTOMATIC TRANSLATION] The village of Fiavè will be our lodging for the day and the next night.
Why right here? First of all, because we booked a hotel here. This is a great place for a couple of reasons. First of all, Garda is there, but although it is very close, 25-30 minutes by car, we are already in the mountains.
Temperature 4-5 degrees lower. And it is a great starting point for the places we want to show you. Well, to show everything in one episode, everything worth paying attention to here, then we would have to do ten episodes, so it's impossible to do this in one. So we'll basically move in the immediate area. We have 20-30 kilometers to travel. What will we see? You will see it in a moment . We are in the same valley.
We are five minutes from Fiavè. The village is called Favrio. Our intuition brought us here and our intuition didn't lie.
This is a miracle. Preserved medieval village, inhabited in addition. There are exceptions, it is for sale. At the bottom, what a characteristic local layout. A house and a barn upstairs, so if you want, you can buy it and live in that place. The whole village is dotted with these public wells, from which mountain water flows, because there are mountains almost everywhere except here.
There you go down to the Garda. There, after driving 15 kilometers , we enter the Mediterranean world, and here we have the Alpine world. Here, gentlemen are already wearing these characteristic hats with a feather, because they are Alpini.
And here it is Dolomice, beautiful and natural. This is not a touristic model, it is a living place. Even cars fit here and there.
Our valley is clearly agricultural, that is, it is not a place, as you have seen before, devoted solely to tourism. And this is the best, because it is a living alpine place, because the Dolomites are a part of the Alps and no matter in which part of the Alps we are, in which country, what national element dominates there, quite similar things are eaten everywhere. I remember well the story of my friend who, long ago, 30 years old, came to Italy for the first time for skiing and his first meal ... He got a card, and yet he did not really shine with the nuances of Italian cuisine, and noticed an extremely exciting sounding position - Stinco di maiale . That sounds exciting in Italian.
Even the worst things sound exciting sometimes. Well, "Stinco di maiale, prego," he said. And what did he get? And he got a huge shank like in Bavaria, because in Bavaria, in the Bavarian Alps and here in the Dolomites, similar things are eaten. There is Sauerkraut and there is krauti. There is Wurst, there is salsiccia. There is schweinshaxe and here is stinco.
But there are some things, of course. A few details, a few nuances that make different parts of the Alps different. Well, what is growing here? Do you see such greenness down there ? It's green everywhere, but you can see it clearly there. Something is rising above the grass. This is maize, maize, which is a grain that grows so high where other grains can no longer cope, because corn is grain. So what, then , here, in this part of the Alps, in the Dolomites, is a great human passion? Polenta.
Polenta, which you can buy here in such blocks. Already cooked. It is used for frying. I see one in Poland too, but if you can't get one, just cook the corn grits, pour it on a damp board to make it thick enough and leave it. It will freeze and then you can cut it into slices. So that's what I'll be doing. In a moment, krauti,
or cabbage. Well, it's too hot for it, so I decided to make a local ... This is a local bee. Bees should be handled delicately, as this bee may collect nectar from chestnut flowers in the spring. I love chestnut honey. Completely brilliant.
Well, radicchio, tomatoes and vinaigrette. It will be instead of sauerkraut. Oil, well, the most intense for the sauce. So GranFruttato. But first, to a small bowl, because it will also be an almost one-person salad, I add some red wine vinegar and classically dissolve salt in it. Now a slow stream of oil. Gradually.
As I have explained it to you hundreds of times, so that it connects as well as possible. The sauce is homogeneous. Well, I said many times, but it's worth repeating. Well, of course I could add the radicchio and the tomatoes here first, and then pour the oil and vinegar over it and mix it up, but then the fractions would be split and we'd get a piece that was mostly oil. Or a piece that would be mostly vinegar.
And so we have combined flavors. The table is small, so I have to make some space. And now a very simple thing. Radicchio, we are wrongly called radiczio. I have already seen such inscriptions on our stalls with "cz". Radicchio, radicchio. This is just plain radicchio. No, it's the famous radicchio di Treviso, oblong, fried, and not particularly small pieces. Remove the top layer if it is wilted.
Plus cherry tomatoes cut in half and all for the sauce. Just a little more pepper. I'll mix it, it'll be ready. And the radicchio does not fade, so if we want to prepare something in advance, if we put the lettuce in the vinaigrette and keep it here for half an hour, and I think I need that much to finish it, it will be blown. So lettuce last. And such a salad can be made in advance. I list it last.
And now the frying action. You must first make a clarification on the board. These are natural things, so you can safely throw them out on the meadow. Okay, it's heating up under the pan, so now it 's classico, the oil that is used for frying. Not too much.
So much. It warms up, and I have to carve out of this beautiful lump ... Cut out pieces for frying. How many to carve out? Well, let's say three. It is important that they are of the same or similar thickness.
Okay, let's check the temperature. Has the oil warmed up? I think she's already good. We put. It sizzles.
Remember that she is cooked. I'm talking about polenta. It's about browning it, giving it a temperature. But it is not about depriving it of austerity, because it is cooked. And to give it some flavor, a little rosemary, a little.
Italians add everything when it comes to spices in moderation. Well, maybe only peperoncino peppers is different, but we are not in the south of the Italian shoe. We fry on both sides. Fried polenta. Arranged on a plate. At this temperature, it will not cool down quickly.
And in the pan, if we put polenta in hot oil, there should be no polenta fractions. The frying pan is clean and there is some oil left, so that's enough for us to fry on it, huh? Something that is just now coming into play. Namely salsicta. Salsicta, or sausages. Italians also use them as a sauce for spaghetti. Stuffing. But as I told you
before, pasta here too, but they are not extremely typical of the place. Here it is rather dumplings and wurst, as the Germans would say. Okay, I can't do any more.
I put it under the table in the shade. Now what do you have to do? You have to hurry. First, because it gets hotter. You have to make small holes inside, because this is not ordinary frying. You will see the whole process for yourself.
This is the process by which we also get a sauce that is extremely important. And the holes are important that they don't splash or break. I mean, they will splash, but they won't break.
Okay. And now pre-frying over as high a fire as possible. It is strong. They bounce.
Okay, I added these two sausages, because nothing can go to waste, as they say. They are not ready yet, even if we only want to eat them fried. They haven't arrived yet.
They are caught in the heat. They are already blinking colors nicely here, but they will now be subjected to further actions. See? Now you have to be quite far from the pan because it's hot. Vinegar. Red, white, it doesn't matter, although there will be red wine as well. So also red wine vinegar.
Now pour it and wait for the vinegar to evaporate over the strongest possible fire. It's all about taste. I pour in and I run off. It will gush. The splash situation has calmed down as this is only the first moment. There's still a hot liquid in the pan, and right now you need to add a few sage leaves, a few, so as not to overturn it, so that it does not turn into cough syrup. And you have to add some rosemary needles, some too.
And now another fluid. This next liquid is red wine, hence, it has the appeal of Trentino Teroldego viz. Terolde Rotaliano.
It will splash again, enough and we wait for the wine to evaporate, until the stewing process goes back to the frying process and until the sausages have a crispy, ruddy crust. By the way, absorbing all the beautiful liquids that were poured into the pan. I have com wanted. The fire can now be turned off.
That was what it was about. The sausages are browned, although reddish with wine. But I have a reduction here. I have a wine reduction here, a pinch of vinegar, which gave the whole its characteristic flavor. I have a sage flavor and a rosemary flavor. Finally, I have olive oil, which is part of the sauce.
And now you are about to see how this ... How extremely dense and extractive it is. And it's almost done. Almost, because I have to ... I have to mix the radicchio, the tomatoes with the vinaigrette , and add this olive twist here. Namely, GranFruttato a bit. For better taste and better glide.
Okay, I'm turning it off and I'm in a hurry to do this ... O Jesus! This plate even burns. And I hasten to show you this up close. It looks even more beautiful up close. Andrew, quickly, because the plate is burning as if I was holding a hot millstone. Can there be a hot millstone? Okay, a pizza stone plate. The mountain sun also gives.
Dear friends, after half an hour's drive from our valley, we reached the main place. The main site in this region. It is the central point of the city of Trento. Its market square with the cathedral. And here some linguistic, historical and semantic explanation should be given. Because
in Polish the same name is used for the city of Trento, which is the capital of the province. In Polish, Trent. Meanwhile, in Italian, this city is called Trento and the province is called Trentino, but the province is part of the region. The region in Italian is called Trentino Alto Adige, and in Polish we would say Trentino, South Tyrol. It is an autonomous region and the history of these two components of the region is quite similar. Both Tirol and Trento.
These were, namely, the bishop's principalities. Episcopal principalities that were taken over by the Habsburgs in the Middle Ages and from the Middle Ages were part of the Habsburg empire, then of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They belonged to Italy since the end of World War I. But what is the difference between neighboring South Tyrol and Trento? Well, the fact that in South Tyrol the Germanic element is stronger, and here the Italian element is definitely dominant.
He dominates and dominated because despite belonging to Austria it was Italian. Just like Venice, which also had an Austrian episode, so it is enough to cross the Brenner Pass ... Well, we are not going from that side now, but I'm talking about the direction from Poland. To drive through South Tyrol is really 30-40 minutes from here to find yourself in the Italian world not only by the border, but also in the Italian world, which has always been the Italian world.
It shows. The Adyga River, which flows almost through the center of the city. I said a moment ago that the name of the province in Polish is Trento, South Tyrol. These are historical names and the administrative name is Trento, Upper Adige. Why Upper Adige? Well, because Napoleon once created the state of Alto Adige. After World War I, the Italians baptized it as Alto Adige, or South Adige, to justify their rights to Tyrol.
And it is an administrative name, but the historical name is South Tyrol. Today it is all in Italy, as you already know, but the region has autonomy. The region itself manages what it will work out and national conflicts are basically no longer there.
Buonconsiglio Castle, the former seat of Trentino bishops. Of course, there is an event connected with Trento called the Council of Trent, which is perhaps the longest-lasting, and even certainly the longest-lasting, council in the history of the church. Eighteen years. In 1517, Luther nailed his theses.
The Reformation begins. The First Council of Trent was a response to the Reformation. Expected in many church reform circles. The response to the Reformation was the Counter-Reformation and the rule of the Jesuits.
The castle is standing. Has two museums. One concerns the bishops and the other concerns the unification of Italy. It's so excruciatingly hot that we move on.
Here is my Dear and Ladies and Gentlemen, Arco, to which I had to bring you. It is located approximately halfway between the city of Trento and our valley and our hotel. There is Arco located lower than our valley, so the vegetation is different, we have back here, just like Bougainvillea on the Garda , we have olive trees here, we have palm trees. Arco was one of the most famous resorts during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and the city owed its fame to Archduke Albrecht Habsburg.
Who exactly was this archduke? Because the Habsburgs had countless archdukes. Well, his wife was Hildegard of Bavaria. Their daughter Matylda died tragically, hiding a smoked cigarette in her ball gown. This one caught fire, so remember, do not smoke or wear flammable materials. But all of this is not yet related to our history, and Albrecht has to do with our history. He was still a famous commander, a winner from Custozza, but most of all he was the Duke of Cieszyn and founded the brewery in Żywiec.
But he most liked to stay in Arco. He called it an open-air clinic. Here he most liked to rest, and it was here that he died, so other nobles followed the Archduke.
Today, among these narrow, beautiful streets, the air does not resemble a clinical one. Anyway, what's the clinical air like? Well, in theory, it should be clean and fresh. Usually it is not like that in clinics, but these estates of the mighty were a bit outside the city. There are many villas here today, lots of tourists, mainly from Austria, even though we are in Trento, not South Tyrol. Here, too, we find subtitles in German.
Well, a wonderful place. As I did not find this beer related directly to Archduke Albrecht, I ordered a typical Italian aperitivo. I must stimulate my bowels to work vigorously, because they will soon face a lot of effort.
A multi-story dinner. Stay with us for a while longer. You will see what it will be like.
As it turned out, our hotel, our base also houses an unusual restaurant. You know this is Al Sole hotel, but we had no idea there was a place called Al Contrario downstairs. There was no information about it in this medium, thanks to which we booked places completely randomly. But we chatted for a while with boss Davide Amodeo. He manages the dry cuisine, while the sweet one is managed by Ana Angelini.
You can choose the tasting menu or individual items from the menu, but this is gourmet cuisine. This is an interpretation of the local cuisine, extremely modern. Of course, almost everything is based on local ingredients, but it looks wonderful and tastes great, as I already know.
Well, now a story about what we have. In the Lazio region, something called mozzarella in carrozza, or breaded mozzarella, is eaten. And here they don't make mozzarella. Well, the boss came up with the idea to make very similar local freshwater mountain fish.
This is a fish from the trout family. Here we have breadcrumbs, but only on top so that it doesn't kill the whole thing. And we have a cream with mozzarella di Buffalo, the best mozzarella made from buffalo milk. Here canederli, because we are in Trento, so Knödel aka canederli are commonly eaten here.
We have pegs on top. There is cheese inside. I'll take it to my mouth in a moment. I will tell you about more things later.
Cervo, or deer. A deer that is pink inside. This is a deer fillet. Here is something that looks like funghi porcini, or real mushrooms. But these are eggplants, eggplants. And the addition of mango.
Mango is also one of the dessert's bases. Here, by the color, you can see that we have mangoes, and the mountain is made of forest fruits. They are inside and this color comes from the lime. It is gluten free and dairy free.
Plus something made of dark chocolate to enhance the taste. Of course, edible local flowers. We spent one evening here, eating for four hours, and on top of that we had paired wines, local of course, and it was a real experience, so I had to share it with you. I do not end this sharing yet.
This is a special canederli-eating device, i.e. a spoon-fork. As a fan of the dumplings family, I have to show it to you. It means to tell because you've already seen it. To tell you about a flavor that is extremely intense.
It is very condensed, with a smoky flavor, but also the power of cheese. This ... Well, if the game is well done, then for people who like meat , basically nothing else starts, because it is from here. See what neighborhood and not massively and industrially bred. Insane. This mango sauce, like music, soothes manners in this case.
It is true that I should start with fish, not meat, but I think the mozzarella sauce will be intense enough to reach my taste buds. Crunchy. Juicy, excellent fish. I also wanted to show you that simple, rural life in the mountains can have many faces. It can also have the face of a raffinade, because it is a raffinade.