Home Lab Makeover: Ditching old Cisco for Power-Efficient Ubiquiti [TPC Special Behind-the-Scenes]

Home Lab Makeover: Ditching old Cisco for Power-Efficient Ubiquiti [TPC Special Behind-the-Scenes]

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I might be deep into vintage computers  and retro network gear—but when it comes   to my day-to-day work, I’m all  about efficiency and modern tech. A few months back, I gave my NAS systems a  major refresh and consolidation. The result?   I slashed my constant IT-related power usage  from 900 watts to just 700. Not bad, right? And if I rewind two years, when my setup  was still eating 1.5 kilowatts... yeah,   that’s a major difference! Now, as I mentioned in my  last Behind-the-Scenes video,   my Cisco switches and access points alone  were pulling a solid 290 watts—and still   didn’t give me enough 10 Gbit  ports for my growing demands. So today, we’re diving into how I finally swapped  out that aging Cisco gear for some sleek, modern   Ubiquiti hardware—and whether I managed to  shave off yet another 200 watts in the process.

Let's talk about legacy network technology. I'm THE PHINTAGE COLLECTOR  and these are my stories. So what you're looking at is the  connectivity rack. Right now,   it holds a 24-port Cisco 3750-E PoE switch from  2010, a couple of routers, and some other gear.  Since it's a PoE switch, it powers three  LAP1142N access points — also from 2010.  That switch is cross-connected via two stack  cables to another Cisco 48-port switch in my   other rack — same model line, but from 2008. All of this gear — switches and access  

points — is 15 to 17 years old. Which means: yes, it's vintage.  And no, it's not exactly power-efficient. As you can see, the current draw is 290 watts   total. About 250 watts go to the switches,  around 33 watts to the access points,  

and the rest to other PoE devices —  which we'll come back to in a bit. MR KNOW-IT-ALL: Ah, come on — what’s all the  fuss? Just buy new gear and save some power. Of course — but it's not that simple.  There were quite a few factors involved,  

and that led me on a days-long journey  through spec sheets and power charts.  Why? Because I had very specific requirements: • A permanent power reduction   of at least 200 watts • At least one 24-port switch   in each rack, with a minimum of 16 PoE ports • Enough 10G ports for my NAS, video workstation,   and future expandability • CLI and API access, ideally   with web and app management, SNMP for legacy • Support for dot1q VLANs, LACP, and Spanning Tree  • And last but not least, stay within  a budget of 2000 CHF / 2500 USD So I started comparing: Cisco, Cisco Meraki —  which both I know professionally — HPE Aruba,   which we use at work, of which I even  had some actual test units on hand.  Also looked into Ubiquiti,  MikroTik, TP-Link and others.  I built a pretty exhaustive list:  features, required accessories,   prices — and most importantly, the power  consumption from each vendor's datasheet. Now, remember those two PoE consumers? This is   actually HPE Aruba access points which  I had deployed alongside the Ciscos.  They use less than half  the power of the Cisco APs.

I hadn’t planned to include APs in  my upgrade, but at that point — why   keep burning 40 watts when I could cut  that in half and upgrade to Wi-Fi 6?  From there, I worked through multiple  scenarios, combining different gear. In the end, I picked Ubiquiti —  not because the others were bad,   but because it hit the right balance for me:  Good value, solid feature set,  and it’s just comfortable to use. Also, I could run my own  device controller locally,   without needing to rely on cloud management  — something not every vendor allows.  But even then, I had to ask myself: am I really  improving things by replacing two switches with   two others plus adding a third 10G switch? Didn’t I want consolidation? Even within Ubiquiti, I narrowed it down  to four possible setups — some minimal,   some more generous with 10G ports.

I initially priced everything with  Ubiquiti’s official accessories,   but let me tell you — after  25 years in networking,   noname modules usually work just fine. Of course, there’s always a chance   of getting a dud — like this DAC cable that  caused port flapping. But more on that later. Price-wise, the choice could've been easy:  go cheap or settle for a middle ground. But I also needed to factor in power savings. So I ran the numbers — calculated the yearly  

power savings, the cost offset, and how  quickly the investment would pay for itself. Now, vendor specs are nice, but  often a bit optimistic. Luckily,   Ubiquiti’s community came through — people  started posting real-world power draw data.

And while not every device was covered,   it was clear that even though APs were rated at  9 watts, the average was closer to 3–4 watts. So I created a second power model based  on those real-world numbers — much more   realistic, and with it, a clearer  picture of my actual savings. MR KNOW-IT-ALL: Alright, alright — we get it,   your TCO math checks out. Now how  about showing us the gear already? Alright, so here it is: four WiFi 6 access  points, the USW-24-POE with 24 Gigabit ports   (16 of them PoE), and the USW-Pro-Aggregation,  offering 28 SFP+ ports for 1/10G and an extra   4 SFP28 ports for 25G. While unboxing the gear,   I noticed there’s very little plastic  — mostly cardboard or antistatic foam. 

The switches come fully loaded: power  cable, rack-mount brackets, all the screws,   and even a printed quick-start guide. The Pro Aggregation switch also came   with a surprise — a 1-meter DAC cable I  had completely overlooked. Nice touch. Even though it’s probably too early for this,  I hooked up my amp meter just out of curiosity.  It’s not very precise, and it flaps between 0  and 0.1 amps because of its limited resolution. 

Still, 0.1 amps at 230V gives us about 23 watts. The access points also use minimal  plastic packaging — the small parts   come in a plastic bag, and the quick-start  guide is sealed in a protective sleeve.   The latter feels unnecessary, honestly.

Here’s a fun little detail: the  box includes a cardboard drilling   template — complete with a  tiny built-in spirit level. The template is genuinely helpful,   but the spirit level? Kind of a gimmick. Cute, yes — but let’s be real: you’ll use   it once, smile, and it ends up in the bin. Once I wired everything up, I repeated the   (still not very precise) measurement — this  time it showed 0.2 amps, or roughly 46 watts.

Of course, that’s with zero config and no  actual traffic. Once the transceivers are   seated and the network’s live, the numbers will  shift. But still — it’s a decent early snapshot. If you're already familiar with Ubiquiti,  you might’ve noticed something missing:   I didn’t mention — or get — a Cloud Key. The Cloud Key is Ubiquiti’s hardware   controller that connects to your local network and  provides the management interface for UniFi gear.  None of the UniFi devices has a  built-in configuration web UI — so   you do need some form of controller. But here’s the nice part: Ubiquiti also  

offers a software version of the UniFi Network  Controller that runs on Windows or Linux. So as   mentioned earlier, you’re not tied to the cloud.  You can keep all your logs and config data local.  And no — you don’t need the hardware-based  Cloud Key. A virtual machine works just fine,   as long as you have somewhere to host it. In my case, I wanted to run it on  

one of my Synology NAS servers. As a callback to a previous episode where   I consolidated my NAS setup, I mentioned that I  upgraded the Synology RackStation to 32 gigs of   RAM — exactly to support use cases like this. Even though I’ve got a VMware cluster,   I deliberately wanted to keep the UniFi  controller more standalone. That way,   I can shut down some of the VM nodes occasionally  to save power, while the Synology — which only   sips about 60 watts — stays online 24/7. To run VMs on Synology, you need to install  

the Virtual Machine Manager. That’s  a bit beyond the scope of this video,   but for completeness: besides enabling  Open vSwitch, I also had to deal with LACP.  My NAS was configured to use all four 1-Gig  interfaces in an LACP bundle, so I had to switch   it over to use the Balance-TCP algorithm. With that sorted, I spun up a new VM   and installed Ubuntu. Now, to get the UniFi   Network Controller up and running, you  have two options: do it manually — the   hard way — or use a community-developed  script that handles everything for you. 

Spoiler: use the script.  It’s super straightforward.  Thanks to that, my UniFi Controller  was up and running within minutes.  Well — almost. It did complain about an invalid TLS certificate.  But again, the same developer provides another  helper script that works with Certbot to fetch   a proper Let’s Encrypt certificate. That’s where I hit a small issue.  

The documentation for the Certbot  integration could be a bit better.  I had to dig through various sources to figure  out exactly which parameters go into acmedns.conf,   and how to properly format the required JSON file. But eventually, I got it all working — including  

integration with my acme-dns setup — and  ended up with a valid, trusted certificate. When logging in for the first time, you'll be  asked to create an account with Ubiquiti online.  So even so all configuration  data is managed locally,   the login procedure including the multi-factor  authentication relies on a global user account. That's because it allows also  to integrate with UniFi online,   also for app-based remote control from  outside your network, if you want to do so. But if you dont want that, you can  also disable this default behaviour,   for a truely isolated management experience.

As soon as I logged into  to my UniFi network server,   it started to automagically  discover all my devices.  You have to go through a so-called adoption  process, which pairs the device with the   network server. This will also update  them to the latest firmware version. You can have your devices being run  with DHCP addressing, if you want.  Personally, I prefer to assign static  addresses to infrastructure devices,   which also has the added benefit that they  can be managed with 3rd party software,   for example for SNMP monitoring,  just as I enabled it right here. Don't forget to also configure the  SNMP access in the global settings. I then adopted all my existing VLANs. Of course, a traditional Cisco switch  

would offer way more functionalities, but believe  me, you won't need many of that in many networks.  Still, Ubiquiti has everything I need, from  multicast-DNS autodiscovery, IGMP Snooping,   which may be needed for applications like IPTV,   the afore mentioned Spannning Tree protocol  for loop protection, and many more. There was only one limitation I ran into. Obviously, any VLAN IDs above 4009,   even so technically up to 4096 are  supported, cannot be configured.  Pity me, as I indeed had a few in that range. So   I had to renumber them. No big  deal, but still an annoyance.

One can also define port  profiles with common settings,   which can then easily be applied  as templates to different ports I'll be definitely using that feature to define  a common denominator for my network ports. As for the WiFi, it works in a similar fashion,   where you define the various SSIDs  and their characteristics globally.  This includes the ability to define if  those will be broadcast on all Access   Points simulatenously, only on specific  ones, included a defined group of devices.  I won't make things more complex than  necessary. With four access points in total,  it's anyway my intend to  broadcast the SSIDs everywhere.

One neat feature, which definitely helps  for optimal deployment is the InnerSpace.  This allows you to upload floor plans  to place the Access Points into.  By drawing the walls and  definining their characteristics,   InnerSpace will automatically update the coverage area. Not necessarily something I need, as  when we built our house many years ago,   I had planned the ethernet outlets accordingly to  support optimal placement of the access points. Still, one neat feature that UniFi server  supports is to run the channel optimization   on a daily basis for adjusting the Access  Points for band collisions and signal strength.  That was definitely something that was more  cumbersome to configure in the Cisco world.

Finally, it was time to swap out the old devices. I started by shifting the existing gear around to   make space and build the new network in parallel  — minimizing disruption as much as possible,   apart from the inevitable rewiring chaos. And my wife, a formidable downtime detector,   proudly confirmed she didn’t notice a thing. Perfect.  At this stage, I began reconfiguring selected  ports to become LACP link aggregation bundles,   allowing me to connect my NAS  servers with multiple ports:  • 4× 1-Gigabit for my older NAS,  now repurposed as a backup target  • 2× 10-Gigabit for each of my newer NAS systems MR KNOW-IT-ALL:  “But that’s only six! You could’ve  easily gone with the 8-port switch!”  Sure, but I also need 10G  links to my workstations.  

That would’ve maxed it out right away. And even though it might seem silly to   “waste” precious SFP+ slots on RJ45 1-Gigabit  modules right now, I’m confident I’ll have   more 10G-capable gear in the future. When that  time comes, swapping those modules will be easy.  Plus, this setup gives me full flexibility  — mixing 1G and 10G connections across RJ45,   Twinax DAC, and fiber-optic modules as needed. Though fiber will only be a temporary solution,   as I plan to transition everything to DAC  cables to furtherly reduce power consumption. 

We’ll get into that in just a moment when  we go through the final optimization steps. Of course, I also encountered some issues. For example this red wire here,  which leads into the inverter.

Although I'm using RJ45 SFP Modules  on the Pro Aggregation switch,   it can only negotiate to a  minimum speed of 1 Gigabit.  And apparently, the inverter has  a 100 Megabits interface only,   so it wouldn't sync, and thus I can't hook it up  to the lower switch, which is closer in distance.  But the cable was too short to reach the  other switch, so I had to temporarily use   an RJ45 coupler to use another cable  to extend it into the second rack. I'll have to dedicate some time  later again to swap that cable,   which unfortunately has a  proprietary plug on one end. The other issue I ran into was related to those  3rd-party accessories I mentioned earlier.  Turns out, one of the Twinax DAC cables  wasn’t quite right — it caused port flapping. 

I noticed this on one of my NAS servers, where  the mce0 interface kept going up and down.  Digging into it with ifconfig, I saw that  the DAC module wasn’t even recognized as a   10G adapter — just a 1 gigabits one. Swapping in another cable solved the   problem. The port was correctly detected  as 10G, the flapping stopped, and the LACP   bundle finally came up cleanly. So, yeah — keep that in mind.   Stuff like this can happen with no-name  modules, especially when you’re,   like me, ordering straight off AliExpress. I did it deliberately to save some money.  And to be fair, my experience over the  years has mostly been good. But you  

can expect the occasional dud. Vendor-branded modules usually   come with better quality assurance —  which can justify the higher price.  If you’re not the gambling type, 3rd-party branded  modules are still a solid, affordable alternative.  And if you are okay taking the occasional risk  for an even lower price, no-name modules are   usually just fine — just order an extra one  or two as spares, and you'll be prepared. So, beyond all the technological  uplift and its merits — what was   the actual outcome on the power-saving front? Let’s rewind to my last optimization round,   where I shaved off around 200 watts  of permanent, IT-driven power draw. 

Here’s a report from my energy supplier dated  January 2025 — and it shows I used about 100   kWh less compared to January 2024. Now, a constant 200-watt reduction   should translate to about 144 kWh a month. But, it’s not a straight line — because we’re   dealing with both permanent load and dynamic load. In my case, that includes things like the heat  

pump, which is temperature-driven. It consumes  more when it’s colder and less when it’s   milder — so it fluctuates seasonally. Still, when looking at the broader   picture — including data from 2023 and  2022 — we clearly see a downward trend   thanks to all those little and not-so-little  power-saving actions over the past years. 

Altogether, I've cut down my monthly  consumption by about 1200 kWh.  That’s… huge! Also, I specifically chose   January for comparison because — despite having  photovoltaics on the roof — January typically   brings zero solar production. So this isn't  offset energy; it's energy I actually had to buy. MR. KNOW-IT-ALL: But doesn’t that   mean your amortization math is wrong  because of the free solar energy? Not really. The investment pays off either way. 

If it’s reducing my grid power  consumption, great — that’s money saved.  If it’s offsetting solar energy usage, that’s  protecting the ROI from my PV system investment.  So from a financial standpoint, it  balances out — it’s neutral in that regard. MR. KNOW-IT-ALL:  Alright, alright… but did you manage  to cut it down to 500 watts in the end? Almost! Here’s the chart:   you can see the baseline power usage  after my last optimization round,   sitting just above 700 watts —  generally stable around 720 watts.  There's a noticeable spike during the  transition, where both the old and new   switches were running in parallel. Then comes the big drop — when  

I finally shut down the old gear. After that, my smart meter consistently   reported about 560 watts — so that’s a  solid 160-watt reduction right there. If we zoom in a little further, you’ll notice   smaller dips in power usage too. Those  came from incremental optimizations:  I had a bunch of small devices still powered  by individual 5V power bricks — and when you   have a lot of those, the parasitic losses  add up. So I started migrating these to PoE.  Now, none of them were PoE-ready out  of the box — so I used PoE splitters. 

These come in all shapes and  sizes — like this bulky unit here…  …but newer ones are much  more compact, like this one.  Just powering four of those devices via PoE  instead of wall bricks brought the draw down   from ~20 watts to about 11 watts. Then there’s the access points.  The UniFi ones draw about 16 watts  total, compared to the 30 watts for   the old Ciscos — plus another 8 watts saved  for the two Aruba units I was using before.  And it’s not over yet. Every watt counts — and  there’s still room to squeeze a few more out.

Now, during the transition phase, I had to  temporarily put some fiber optics in place.  Cool? Yes. Efficient? Not quite. From a power perspective, fiber optics   aren’t great — especially on short distances,  where they offer no real advantage over copper,   other than looking cooler in a rack. A typical optical module, whether   it’s short-range or long-range, can easily  draw anywhere between 1 and 3.5 watts, and   that’s not even counting higher-bandwidth ones. Compare that to Twinax DAC cables, which usually   come in at 500 milliwatts or less per port,  depending on length. That's much more efficient. 

Unfortunately, when I kicked off the  upgrade weekend, I didn’t have those   DAC cables on hand, so I had to roll  with 10G optics to get things running.  Only after the DACs arrived I could finally swap  out all the optics — and that gave me one last   nice little dip in power usage, bringing me to  a steady-state consumption of around 510 watts.  And guess what? That lined up almost  exactly with my original educated guess. 

So yeah — mission accomplished. The setup now  does everything I wanted, with the power draw   right where I hoped it’d land. You might say I’m a bit too   obsessed with power savings. But let’s rewind to 2021,   before the photovoltaic system was even in place. Back then, I was hitting around 1500 kWh per   month during summer — that’s a  continuous draw of 2 kilowatts,   and 1.5 kilowatts of that was just my IT workload. So investing in solar and optimizing my gear was   not only a logical step — it was essential,  especially with European energy prices   going bananas after the Ukraine crisis. Now, 2022 is a bit messy in the data — we  

built the solar mid-year, so the numbers are  skewed. But when you factor everything in,   here’s the rough trend: • 2022: ~24 MWh  • 2023: ~19.4 MWh (first  big IT power optimization)  • 2024: ~18.6 MWh (smaller tweaks here and there) • 2025: Still counting — but we’re  

trending in the right direction. MR KNOW-IT-ALL: Hmm. I don’t know.   I was expecting a bigger long-term drop... Well, I didn’t tell you the full story yet.  We also ditched our combustion engine  car and switched to a battery-electric   vehicle — and some of the energy savings from my  IT actually went straight into charging the car.  But even with that shift, I'm close  to energy net-zero — generating almost   as much as I consume. And these latest IT  optimizations help maintaining that balance. Bottom line: You can reduce your power   usage by going through lifecycle upgrades. Of course, it doesn’t make sense to replace  

every gadget just for the sake of it. But once  something reaches the end of its useful life,   swapping it for a more efficient  option can bring huge benefits.  Personally I haven’t sacrificed a  single thing — except wasting power. What do you think about all this? Let me know down in the comments! I’m THE PHINTAGE COLLECTOR, and this was my  special behind-the-scenes story for today. Thanks for watching — and see  you again for the usual retro   computing shenanigans after a quick  two-week spring break in early May!

2025-04-26 06:14

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