Destroying a Kindle Oasis 2 with hot air and a Kaiweets KTI-W02 thermal imager

I have my beloved Kindle Oasis 2 here this cost me about 300 Franks new I've had this for years and today with the help of this thermal imager I am going to destroy it so the context is that I am a compulsive reader I read everywhere on buses on trains sometimes while walking while waiting for meetings at work but sometimes while not waiting for meetings at work I read constantly and I read on an ebook reader because it's so much easier than carrying paperbooks around if you're in Zurich and you see somebody wandering around holding an ebook reader in one hand it's probably me I bought this years ago and I really like it I like the solid metal case it stands up to abuse really well you can see it's considerably dinged up from having dropped this thing on concrete multiple times I like the mostly thin case it Cheats by having the battery in the thick segment over here but it makes a nice handle for holding it with I like the completely flat glass screen I like the fact it's got actual buttons I like the fact it's waterproof so it'll even work in the rain the only thing I don't like is the fact that it stopped working it has stopped working in a really stupid way it no longer charges I know what's happened the USB socket here has failed it started charging intermittently a few months ago it got slowly worse and now it stopped charging completely one of the contacts in the socket will have failed it'll have corroded and then charging uses a fairly High current and a high current through a dodgy contact will get hot and that will just burn it all out the obvious solution is to replace the socket but you can't because this thing is unfixed the case is only in two parts there's thick metal shell which has no seams and there is the flat glass screen which is glued on I've hunted around online for tear downs and what you're looking at here is the only one I can find and as you can see it is not really what I would consider to be successful in fact I've been completely unable to find anyone who claims to have taken this thing apart while keeping it in one piece so thanks Amazon given that this thing is completely useless to me if it won't charge I thought I would have a go myself and that is where this comes in this is a thermal imager sent to me by Kai wheat in exchange for a review Thanks kyats they do not have any editorial control of this it is a thermal imager capable of seeing heat let me explain about thermal images a thermal imager is a infrared camera but that's a little bit confusing because there's two real types of infrared camera there is shortwave infrared also known as cheap infrared which basically works just like any other light source this is a shortwave infrared camera this is a wildlife camera that I use to take pictures of my local foxers it's got an ordinary camera and there's a big Bank of shortwave infrared LEDs to act as a flood light so the camera just sees reflected light from the flood light just like any other camera meanwhile this is a longwave infrared camera which works completely differently longwave infrared is emitted by all objects based on how hot they are hot things produce lots of longwave infrared cold things produce a small amount of infrared this is much more difficult to pick up this thing has a 256 by1 to resolution the first consumer longwave infrared camera that I have ever seen was a clipon Bluetooth thing for a phone that had eight pixels that is8 pixels total and this ability to see heat is why they're called thermal images let me hook it up and give you a demonstration here I have rigged the camera up to look at my workbench you can see my hands which are hot and they're showing up in white and you can see fingerprint prints on the workbench because when I touch the workbench I heat it up this big black spot in the middle is because when I was setting up this shot I put this ice cube on it the Ice Cube as you can see shows up dead black because it's very cold and it's also cool off the workbench meanwhile If instead I bring along my soldering iron and I turn it on you can see it glows very brightly white indicating that it's hot let me turn that off again before I burn myself I have not used the thermal imager before and honestly this is really cool I spent a lot of time wandering around my apartment with it finding hotpots I discovered that my router gets extremely hot which I knew already because you can feel it but I didn't realize quite how hot it was I also found another hot spot in the sound bar under my television which was a little unnerving I didn't realize it used quite so much power so what did kyats actually send me well apart from the thing itself it comes with a nice little carrying case that also contains a DC power supply and a USBC cable and a sheath of documentation which consists of one publicity sheet a Cate telling that it's been calibrated and a quite decent little manual it's one of these things that's been translated into lots of languages so it's not as thick as it looks but the English section is reasonably well written and contains all the information you would want about how to operate the device I have surprisingly actually used this several times but that's not really what anyone's interested in the thermal imager it's a respectably chunky thing with decent build quality on the front on the sharp end you have a visible light camera the infrared sensor itself and two windows here for a laser pointer and an LED flood light there's a handy trigger and on the back is the operating screen and four buttons under a flap on the top is a Micro SD card slot and a USBC socket the USBC is used to charge as well as to operate the device in either USB webcam mode or SD card reader mode more about the webcam mode later quite a lot more but the big question is how does it operate let me just go and hook it up so that I can record what comes out of it and now you're seeing what it's seeing which is a not very exciting view of my workbench this is my my ryol oscilloscope currently turned off so it's mostly all the same color that is me you see me wiggle my fingers that is my reflected infrared image in the shiny oscilloscope screen up here is my workbench monitor which is turned on because I'm using it to preview this image which is why it's glowing brightly around the edges and you can just make out in the middle that shadowy wraith is my reflected infrared image on the screen it shows the usual clock battery information an icon to indicate there's no SD card in it on the right is the scale in this mode it is automatically rescaling itself as I pointed at different things and it's showing me that the minimum temperature the blackest color it can show is 22.6 and the whitest thing it can show is 27.4 there's actually not a lot of range here if I actually put my hand in front you see the range expand because my hand is quite warm if I move my hand right up close the range contracts you can configure this manually you press and hold this button and you can set it to automatic semi-automatic completely manual but that requires skill so I leave it on automatic there are number of viewing modes this is pure infrared we've also got picture in picture that uses the visible light camera and overlays the infrared image onto it we've got visible light that makes this thing work as a 160x 240 webcam which it is not very good at we also have this mode which fuses the visible light and the infrared it does Edge detection on the visible light image then overlays that onto the infrared which allows you to see the outlines of what you're looking at on my workbench it doesn't work so well because the two sensors are separated by a few centimeters so Parallax means that it all goes a bit wrong when you're looking at stuff that's close up but if I change this to some Boll footage of outside views you can see it actually works pretty well and depending on what you're doing it can really help figure out what it is you're looking at I generally prefer plain infrared mode this button also doubles as the menu button so if I push this to get back to the main screen and menu I said and menu there we go this shows the things in the menu Gallery shows you any pictures stored on the SD card you take pictures by pulling the trigger temperature range allows you to set two major temperature ranges I I mean are you looking at room temperature things or hot things or you just leave it an automatic emissivity is part of the calibration mechanism to allow you to tell it what kind of objects you're looking at this allows it to calculate the temperature more accurately there are numerous options including setting your own I don't touch it pallet allows you to change between various pseudocolor palletts so this is one of the more useful ones this gives you a false color representation blue is cold red is hot here's my hand bright red this can be useful to show hotpots you can see my arm in the screen is now a different color but I generally prefer to leave that set to grayscale Center Point if I turn that on adds the Crosshair in the middle of the screen and now it measures the temperature of whatever it's it's pointing at so the monitor is at 33° my hand is at also 33 de which is about reasonable human skin temperature the workbench is cooler and I don't have my ice cube anymore temp unit allows you to change the temperature unit that displays things in of course Centigrade Roi measure is interesting this turns on if I set it to this one that box in the middle it now shows the hottest and coldest point in it so up here the hottest point is clearly the Monitor and the coldest point is clearly the back wall of my workbench at 33 5 about 34 is and about 24ish so 10° difference there and menu there we go and you can set various different rectangle sizes including full screen and off alarm allows you to set alarms if it sees hot things or cold things let's turn that off reflection measure is another one of the calibration settings you saw my reflection in the screen so that is secondhand infrared it's not infrared being emitted by the oscilloscope itself you can compensate for that by setting this distance is again the thing you're looking at if it knows how far away it is it can produce a more accurate temperature distance unit automatic shut off screen brightness and then we have laser and flood light which are interesting those two on the front contain the laser pointer and LED flood light and if I point this at my workbench and pull the trigger there you can see the LED flood light and in the middle the laser pointer spot now there is a small problem here you notice that it only actually engages maybe every other press I'll talk about that later let's turn them off for the time being date time language and the usual things picture in picture just changes the transparency level of the PIP overlay this changes the resolution of the visible light camera I don't know why it bothers considering that it only ever emits to 40x 320 video USB mode changes it from Mass Storage to USB webcam I'm W fiddle with that because I'm currently using it in USB webcam mode to record what you're looking at camera info shows the usual technical details and we're back round to the top and of course this button is onof and back and that's basically all there is to it it is a fairly basic device Kai Wheats do make another one this is the kti W2 the kti W1 has some more advanced features the biggest one of which is video recording and that's why this thing is hooked up by USB rather than recording video natively onto the SD card this one only does still photographs so that's what it does now let's start talking about the problems it is not Problem free the first one you've may already have noticed every now and again the picture will freeze is it going to actually do this on demand there we go and it clicks internally do not know why it's doing it but it's really annoying I assume it's got something to do with automatic rescaling but I've also had this pointing at a static image and it keeps doing that it's maddening the next thing is the laser and flood light now when these are enabled you pull the trigger to activate them but pulling the trigger also takes a photo so you see it's now given me the confirmation box if you pull the trigger again while the confirmation box is up so like that the lights don't go on ah and now it happens because the confirmation box is timed out so you wait for the box to time out and now they'll work again given that the trigger is also the confirm button for the photo confirmation box see when I press it again it complains about there being no SD card it hasn't taken a picture this means that like just using the thing half the time it just doesn't work and of course you take lots of pictures these should not be on the same button this is a big UI failure and return those off and now let's talk about the last and biggest issue which is webcam mode I am recording this from a Linux laptop this took a lot of work let me explain why what you're looking at here is my Linux kernel log from my desktop computer watch what happens when I plug the camera in yes an error message this camera does not work on Linux or an OSX for that matter the issue is that the way that the UVC webcam interface works is the camera declares to the computer what video formats it supports and these are referred to by uid and the camera is reporting this one looking that ID up on the Internet takes us to this page which lists a million different media types searching this gives us this turns out that this du ID refers to a direct 3D media type it's just rgb565 but it's a different one than everyone else uses if we then go and troll through the Linux source code we can find this table of all the GU IDs it's port and somewhere down here we have UVC guid format rgbp which is the normal one for rgb565 and this is a different guid luckily actually fixing this is fairly straightforward so I've got here a kernel patch which adds this particular guid and to the appropriate place where it actually looks all these things up map them to Linux video pixel formats and with that plus another patch because even with that the UVC chipset they're using is buggy and it needs a particular workaround this one once I've done that it then works on Linux that's what I've been using to actually do all these recordings so I'm trying to get these patches upstreamed into the Linux colel to add support for this webcam you're welcome kit honestly these days it's surprising to find a device that doesn't work with Linux because this also means it doesn't work with Android phones it's a good thing I'm a developer or I've never been able to capture any footage for this thing at all I do have some windows machines I use them to play games on but I suppose if I wasn't a developer I wouldn't be using Linux at all right right but anyway this thing's core competency of being a thermal camera does seem to work pretty well I've had a lot of fun playing with it looking at cars passing in the street finding hot things in my apartment to my total surprise I discovered that the apartment central heating pipes run through the middle of the floor I didn't know that I've also been trying to use this to capture images of the local Wildlife with a certain amount of success this so what am I actually going to do well in order to get the screen off this thing I'm going to have to melt the glue holding the screen onto the case I'm going to do that using my hot air gun however the hot air gun can get things really hot and this has Electronics plastic buttons and you know a battery in it so this is going to be used to monitor the temperature of this make sure it's even all the way around I don't want it to melt on one side but still be solid in the other and generally keep an eye on everything that's going on this is almost certainly going to fail but hey worth a try so here we are out of my nice non-familial balcony I have the Kindle hanging from a suction cup like this so it will rotate nicely I have my heat gun and I have the thermal imager and the real camera hooked up so suppose the only real thing to do now is to turn up the air flow and see what happens [Music] [Music] and here we are back at the workbench so I figured out a few things the first of which is the heat gun is not going to get this thing hot enough to make it burst into flames so I've moved back in here where I can actually see what I'm doing and I don't end up with a ruined back secondly taking the lid off this thing is going to be really hard it's screwed together then stuck the eaper screen on top of the screws then this thing here was stuck on top of that it's all held together with glue but I think it might be possible to take the top layer off by prying all the way in with these screen disassembler things and peeling the entire top layer which might be plastic off [Music] here's a cool thing I've seen you see these little fractal [Music] patterns and that loud cracking sound was the screen going damn [Music] well I suppose that could have gone better this is clearly never going to work again but it has revealed a number of rather interesting things so on the left you can see the the front panel this contains the touchcreen which has got connectors here and in fact there is a socket here which plugs in here and as soon as IID pushed the spudgers through that was when the device died because these connectors are ridiculously screwed up this also contains the assemblies for the buttons which go there this whole thing is on a ribbon over on this side we see very interestingly that in fact the screen is not glued directly to the touch screen there is a plastic sheet between the screen and the touch screen so let's just do a bit of prying here it is stuck down that's the reason why all the fragments of screen haven't come out it's not stuck down very well oops that was the screen going crunch yeah that's massacring the screen that beautiful eing screen been completely destroyed well if amson had made it repairable it wouldn't be being destroyed so what I was thinking was that maybe it would have been possible to peel this off and leave the screen intact but clearly not this is the back of the case here and the screen itself is is this glued down yes it is and we're actually looking at the oh wow this plastic sheet was not on top of the screen this was part of the screen what we're looking at here is the e in display itself this is a glass sheet covered in tiny beads Each of which contains liquid with some black particles and white particles by applying a electrostatic field they can force the black particles to come to the top or not I think that when I do this I'm crushing the beads and what you're seeing are the carbon particles from inside so if I do that with some of this black stuff we might get white H maybe so yeah that's incredibly delicate and now completely trashed over here on the back of the screen is a mirror surface that I think may contain the electronics layer that would make sense given the way that this connector is fastened to this side so this will be the thing that actually applies the charge it's interesting to actually see it taken apart like this I haven't done that before it would have be nicer if you know I didn't have to so here's the ribbon cable holding it down what holds this in not much oh this will be a push fit connector there we go so here's a piece of the screen you can see the various traces on it the actual electronics that drive it will be embedded within the glass and this reveals some of the chassis of course the thing lives inside this bulge in the bottom so this metal piece here covers the top of the electronics and you notice here there is a screw underneath the screen there is no possible way you could ever get this off yeah the reason why the screen cracked when I pried over here but not over here is because here the screen is attached to the metal back plate via some padding here there's just little Gap and some metal so that's a terrible piece of design for repairability yeah this is a piece of double-sided tape holding it all together this thing is shedding glass fragments everywhere where this is going to be extremely exciting to clean up so can I actually get the top of the electronics box well that was miserable so I found two screws here under the glass and one here but I missed this one and just had to rip the bushing out of the plastic liner by Brute Force these things these screws are covered with the hardest green glue I've ever seen but we have exposed the electronics box going from the top this is where the onoff button is the button is this assembly here we've got some contact Pogo pins I think that would push against the the metal case which by the way is held down with more double ided tape just to make things harder this is the big connector to the screen this is the entire Kindle Electronics so what'll be in here will be the CPU Ram Flash and this external box is probably the Wi-Fi module down here we've got the battery which doesn't say oh here it is 3.7 Vols 1,000 milliamp now this was failing it doesn't feel very squashy given [Applause] that given how little o I don't like the way that's bending given how little space there was inside this thing I can't imagine that any outgassing would have you know gone anywhere I'd really rather like to get this thing disconnected I think this is the contact here looks glued down there we go rip open with brute force all right the thing is now no longer live even though the battery is probably completely flat there may have still been a bit of charge in it and that's the battery removed hopefully in more or less one piece it's a it's not a very robust pouch battery but this is now going to go out onto my nice concrete balcony and join the graveyard of other dead batteries underneath here there's nothing piece of aluminium foil for some reason Wi-Fi antenna this however is of interest because this if I undo these [Music] screws I bet it's also glued down yep it's glued down there we go this is the single component that has failed NE necessitating disposal of the entire device nice one Amazon me from the future here while editing I realized I had this rather nice closeup of the socket and some of those pins look well dodgy that probably provides some insight as to what actually went wrong the other thing I thought of doing was soaring through the bottom of the case to expose the socket however given that the battery went in here then there'll be no way to get access to this minuscule socket without soaring uncomfortably close to the battery which I would rather not do I did however have a backup backup plan which was to soak the whole thing in IPA to see if that would make some of the glue Come Undone the main PCB here doesn't seem to be held down by anything other than blue yeah here's the connector for the USB socket and it is this ridiculously tiny pushfit thing yeah that's never going to go back in so at this point the thing is comprehensively tra cred as if you can't tell there may be some bits I can salvage off it I mean this is a perfectly reasonable um single board computer but I think at this stage I I'm just going to E-Waste it all I'm getting increasingly concerned about the tiny glass fragments that my hands are covered with and also this stuff is is a fine Nano scale powder that probably I don't want to let get out very much so I'm going to take a moment to bag this all up and do a lot of cleaning of my workbench and myself well I think that was a total success I did promise I would destroy the Kindle and this looks extremely destroyed to me it was very interesting seeing how it was made made on all the glued layers the other tear down I was faintly hoping that you know they were just clumsy or not doing it right or something but no they were absolutely doing it right this thing is impossible to dismantle possibly that's what made it waterproof my new Kindle is I believe water resistant not waterproof which is a bit of a shame it might be possible to dismantle the thing a little less destructively to a certain extent you'd have to pry up this Edge and then run a hot wire underneath between the touch screen and the e in screen and when you get to about here you should be able to just lift the thing off and unplug it but that's all you'll get any further dismantling you'll have to somehow remove the incredibly fragile eink screen which is GL glued down and covers all the screws you need to actually take the thing apart and that is not going to happen although if anyone can I would love to see myself prove wrong I still think it's incredibly stupid that I had to discard this entire incredibly sophisticated and mostly functional machine because the USB socket failed but I suppose that's modern consumer electronics for you the thermal imager did I manage to give this thing a decent workout not really taking this thing outside was not really very successful there was just too much light outside the thermal imager it picks up the heat that things emit you can see my hand here but it will also pick up reflected heat and there was a lot of it so it wasn't actually showing very much out there once I brought it indoors it was way more useful and I did actually use it to see what I was doing with this thing with the heat gun I had the output of the imager on my workbench monitor which is over there so it was very convenient to access and I think that I will definitely keep wanting to do that there are a number of applications I would like to use this thing for for example pointing it at hot components it's a a great way to see what chips on a PCB are getting warm which is a very useful way to find components which for example have failed because they've shorted out is it a good thermal imager beats me I have not used one of these things before I do not know how they compare to the competitors which I think is Flur mainly I did have a quick look at fl's website and their images seem to be very expensive but this was also not particularly cheap the bugs were interesting but I can work around them I don't use the laser or flashlight I managed to fix the USB connection the hiccups and clicking I don't have a workaround for but I don't think it will particularly bother me we'll see we'll see anyway thank you very much to KY weats who sent this to me no thanks to Amazon who did not send this to me or rather they did but I had to pay for it and to everyone else as always I hope you enjoyed this video please let me know what you think in the comments

2024-10-05 02:09

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