СБОРКА КОМПЬЮТЕРА С ПОЛНЫМ ВОДЯНЫМ ОХЛАЖДЕНИЕМ | ASSEMBLY OF A COMPUTER WITH FULL WATER COOLING
Do you know what true power is? What does perfection itself look like? in detail, we can say from A to B, I will show and tell you how I assembled a water-cooled computer, adding a little innovation. So, point one, listing the main components, x570 aurus exteme motherboard without radiators and ryzen 5950x processor, rtx 3090 aurus video card Extrem RAM Patriot vaper 4 GB strips without radiators but with Samsung SSD m2 Gen 4, 2 by 250 GB and 1 by 500 GB Western digital hard drives six pieces of 2 terabytes each Sata controller power supply from corsairs 1 kV pressure sensors, normally closed and normally open, operate in the range from 1 to 7 bar, but position relays rp12 are suitable, I show the principle of operation, after switching, the water block is manually cocked onto the processor , the water block is on a video card three water blocks on an SSD m2 two water blocks on a VRM water block on a chipset water blocks on RAM alpha Cool Nexxxus rxp 360 mm radiator Alpha Cool 140 mm radiator Alpha Cool xt45 pump, it is much cheaper and more powerful than specialized computer pumps And now I will demonstrate it to you So on What is an eighty-six-watt pump capable of? Here it is, with fittings and this adapter for it on I run 24 V and 3.5 amperes. That ’s power. That’s what I understand. That’s a real gun. And these pumps are 18-20 watts, it’s all
nonsense . this is the greatest advantage of this case, that is, in modularity and then the next point is removing radiators from the motherboard, the normal video was lost and so I will show first I remove this plate that should cover m2 then I remove this plate that should cover 2 m2 then these side decorative ones then this chipset-vrm heatsink then this side plug disassembling the video card [music] after unscrewing screws, the board must be slowly separated from the heatsink by rocking, if you hurry you can tear off the chips [music] S [music] [music] installing a water block on a video card behind the scenes, I cut and installed thermal pads, cut them according to the instructions for the water block. Although I had complete thermal pads for the water block, I decided to install those that I bought thal. In the end, it turned out that the instructions do not fit because the thermal pads are hard and those in complete with a soft water block, having installed the terma for the first time, I saw that if I twist the water block, the card is clearly screwed, after that I re-selected it and cut it out so that there is no bend when twisting it why did I start installing them and they are more thermally conductive precisely because of the denser structure, of course it was risky to install hard ones, but the riskiest risk would be if I decided to install instead of thermal pads copper plates lubricated with thermal paste or with thin thermal pads I saw this on some tubes it ’s good for frostbitten bloggers that I immediately gave up on this idea and just at the moment of installing the hard thermal pads I clearly realized that although they were hard, they crumple and the copper plate No, of course I’m making excuses After all, I took a lot of risks myself, so do it What’s easier and don’t bother with the cuts at this point I’ll show you the places and elements that had to be modified, firstly, the case had to be enlarged, bend this hole with pliers, the edge because the plug is from The power supply does not fit into it. I cut this hole for an additional hard dick. Next, the motherboard sawed off the edge of this plastic thing because it interfered with the installation of M2 with a water block, then I sawed down M 2 with a radiator, then I filed it so that the chipset fasteners would be under them. Without them, the fastening would interfere with the installation
of the next two recesses. But on the other hand, the water block is needed in order for the fittings from the water block M 2 did not interfere with the installation of the video card, here are a couple of examples of how everything fell into place after installation ; peeling off stickers from the SSD is not particularly necessary since it immediately minus the guarantee, unless of course it is possible to glue them back so that it is unnoticeable. In general, this improves cooling by a couple of degrees. In order to remove the heatsink from the RAM, I decided to soak them
in alcohol for three hours. I also soaked the SSD in alcohol so as not to damage the stickers. As you can see I managed to remove the radiator only from the side of the chips; on the other side there was serious glue. In the end, I decided to soak the strips in gasoline;
the radiators came off just perfectly; installing a water block on RAM; such water blocks are produced only by the company Alpha Cool and I could find them for sale only on the website of this company, these water blocks. As I understand it, they also started producing them for memory 2 and dd3; when installing ddr4 strips in them, the chips protrude from under the radiator by a millimeter, but this is not critical also in such For radiators, it is advisable to install strips on which the chips are located on both sides, that is, strips with a large amount of memory; in my case, 4 GB strips. And for such strips you need to install a thermal pad or any soft insert on the side where there are no chips so as not to damage the elements of the bar when screwing the water block installing the water block on the SSD m2 in front of you substrates and water blocks with pre-cut thermal pads adding a little thermal paste to the top of the M2 For a tighter contact installing fittings on the water blocks of AA RAM installing fittings on the remaining water blocks [music] installing hoses on the fitting found a very good hard one PVC hose with a diameter of 11 by 8 mm, I think that when assembling it is much better to use such a hose than any rigid tubes, in general , the larger the diameter, the higher the flow rate. It is also desirable that there are fewer bends and bottlenecks in the circuit. So, I cut the hoses after first measuring the distance Having installed water blocks in a trial, I install hoses and soften the water, since some fittings are larger than the required size and assemble the view into a line from the VRM to the pump from the corner fittings A installing fasteners for fans and a pump on the radiator [music] 2 W [music] [music] 2 [music] 2 [music] installing connections pump radiator installing the back plate and plug this rubber insert is needed to strengthen the strength of the board E installing RAM and fasteners for the processor water block installing a radiator fan fasteners A installing the motherboard in case A [music] [music] [music] installing the power supply and wires, I do not advise you to buy such power supplies with wires in a rigid braid because they are difficult to lay in the case installation of the SATA adapter and wires installation of the water block on the processor [music] [music] installation of the water block on the VRM and A K connection installation of the upper SSD and connections installation the lower SSD with a branch, just collecting the branches from the water block M 2 to the flask that will be attached to the millimeter of this branch will end tap for draining it will be installed sai point of the circuit K installation of the middle SSD and water block on the chipset in advance cut and installed a thermal pad on the chipset with installation of the video card and connection A [music] A [music] installation of the flask of the connection taps here behind the case the circuit will be divided into two parts that is, part of the water will flow through the radiator and the other part through the flask Us [music] H [music] [music] [music] in these places where it fell I would peck the threads with porous rubber since installation of a 360 mm radiator and [music] connections E [music] [music] installation of millimeter fans after this point the assembly stopped for a year and a half due to lack of money and resumed at the end 23 years old, this time the computer functioned approximately in this form of new items in the collection, as if replacing three old ones, that is, there will be further assembly more interesting is replacing the power supply. So, a new power supply from a gigabyte of
1300 watts, and I decided to change the power supply because it got very hot and because sometimes the monitor blinked. To install new cables, I had to mount the radiator [music] tie up the controller, having previously installed the usual one I could create an adapter from hard drives, but only programmatically from under Windows or Linux, which did not suit me in this solution, constant loading of operating systems, work unknown of what will happen when the operation of operating systems is disrupted and when they are reinstalled You may have a question But you have a cool motherboard and it probably has raid support Yes, that’s how it is for me In the raid But from under the BIOS 2 m2 SSDs of 250 GB will be combined at the same time The board has a limit on the number of devices connected to the raid and when six hard drives are connected to the board, only four are visible in the encore of the motherboard, that is, this is such a strange limitation on the connection side of the motherboard microcircuit splitter cable assembly first I connect the fan splitter I connect the microcircuit that should be running the pump when the computer starts instead of this microcircuit you could use a relay like this for five or 12 V installing hard drives [music] with [music] [music] assembling the case Assembly of the case should have been carried out at the very end, but since the computer case was in its bare form for more than a year, I couldn’t help but assemble it installing pressure sensors ahead of time I put silicone gaskets on [music] the sensors additionally cover the lump threads and gaskets just in case [music] [music] [music] after installing the sensors I decided to check the flask for airtightness. As you may have noticed, there is already water in the circuit there is, after some time I saw a decrease in the pressure level in the flask, after which, looking closely at the flask, I discovered bubbles on its walls and then I realized that pumping in the flask further I already I pumped water into the flask and as a result the pressure level no longer changed and with another small addition I decided to clean the circuit using a special phase cleaner and here is the result the footage was taken during the cleaning process but the difference is still visible [music] [music] installation of protection the essence of protection is in order for the computer to turn off when the pressure in the circuit drops or increases during a leak, the pressure must drop. And if for some reason the pump does not work well or completely turns off due to heating and lack of water circulation in in the circuit, the pressure can increase, which can also lead to a leak. The sensor reacts to low
pressure. I decided to connect the protection to this power supply, this gives the protection autonomy and in the event of a drop in pressure due to a leak, the protection will work to de-energize the computer's power supply even when the computer is turned off I will also connect a pump and a mini-fan to this power supply; this power supply, unlike the main one with voltage adjustment, has a mesh housing, which is why it can easily be cooled by a fan and power supplies with a closed case, due to long heating, reduce the voltage and fail. Installing a normal microcircuit to control the pump, the transistor for this circuit needs airflow, so a fan is placed opposite And just like that, everything is connected, I start the com, there is no speed of revolutions and when the microcircuit is connected together with a fan using a splitter I think it’s possible to get a speed display if you use a normal splitter with capacitors, but in fact it’s not really necessary to see the operating speed I change the speed of revolutions, I change it again and here ’s the microcircuit and Yes, I installed another hard drive Well, so it ’s necessary to refuel and pump, I did the refueling in advance and this is how it happened, the water must first be poured into the highest point of the circuit, that is, I fill it in, screw on the radiator cap, then turn it over com so that air bubbles from the radiator get into the flask And so that air does not accidentally fly out of the flask Next, you can close the taps in front of the flask, then you need to expel it in the same way air bubbles from the entire circuit, periodically adding water to the flask and then proceeding [music] pumping is pumped up creating [music] pressure, it was experimentally determined that the pressure in the circuit should be 0.9 [music] bar, then I call and adjust the pressure sensors
to the desired range of their response from approximately 08 to O bar and then I connect [music ] com launch at this point I will show all the computer settings, assembly problems, and so on, I will start from the entrance, I will show how to configure the settings from which disks to normal I set the BIOS to csm support enable, then you need to select Legacy opposite storage Boot op Control, I save and reboot, then the array is initialized, press + H to enter and here it is, and here is the array itself. As you can see, re 10 I exit using TL because of the initialization of the array, loading the computer takes almost a minute even with disabled leg support it goes on for a long time although it is not visible I think that it is possible to speed up the initialization by setting up the array cache, but since I occupied it with data I decided for now do not check this topic at the beginning when creating the array There was such a problem due to the lack of a driver for restarting the boot, even with the driver it turned out that for Windows 10 the latest version you need a certain version of the driver which was difficult to find because the official site for support for raid controllers is lsi curve But in Linux no driver is needed and further tests and system settings at the beginning I will carry out the next array of arrays. I think the second array is worthy - this is drive C and it is unusual, that’s why it is 22 by 250 GB combined from under the BIOS vray 0, while installing Windows, I split this raid array into two equally, one partition for Windows and the other for Linux, this is of course too Brilliant, but okay, the speeds also seem to be decent, but for an example of the speed of the D drive, of course it was worth installing the system for this five hundred gig SSD, but what’s even sadder is that I had to save money. And if I had bought two more of these M 2 for 500 gigs instead of 250, putting them in raid zero, I could have gotten much more high speeds and volume, further data on overclocking the processor and RAM, here is this data. This is the most serious overclocking that was achieved after assembly in 1922, but recently the processor has stopped passing the test in the blue bench with this overclocking, the processor heats up more than 80 degrees, but it starts reboot Although I have a couple more profiles with overclocking the processor, I use them very rarely since they heat the processor above 70°. But
I use the com without overclocking the processor more often. That is, now it turns out like this such a profile Of course, you can install a profile with overclocking, but because of this the water in the circuit will heat up more and you end up with the following choice: either overclock the video card to the maximum, which actually gives much more performance than the processor or millet, the choice turns out to be obvious [music] of the processor in the blue bench, here is the temperature after 10 minutes of dough in the blue bench But the temperatures are idle and now the video card settings are used only with a frequency of 1800 MHz, to raise it higher you need to raise it the voltage is above 950 MV and the GPU begins to heat up above 80° Therefore, the setting is By the way, I don’t set overclocking from memory because according to tests it only reduces FPS and then I turn on the performance test in 4K before it was better and the overclocking was 1950 MHz and n 1000 memory, but over time all the thermal interfaces dry out and I have to lower all the settings. Next, I’ll talk about the problems with my assembly and some solutions that were applied when assembly So, I’ll start with the taps, here the external tap is completely copper with a nickel-plated coating; in some places there are scratches and you can see that there is actually marking under the coating, but it turned out to be made of ordinary metal and over time corrosion began which contaminates the entire circuit; of course, I shouldn’t have saved but should have bought expensive specialized screens specifically for computer circuits and so that there is no corrosion and blooming, what needs to be poured, added to the circuit, poured with distilled water, you can add such a product as rmin milligram 5 can be measured using a cap from a plastic bottle, look at the composition and you can add something similar, and to clean the circuit after a year or more, I repeat, you can use phase products and then I will talk about the inconsistency of the standard radiator And the water block when I removed the radiator from the video card it turned out what is installed on the video card heatsink thermal pads are provided for all elements of the board, which I think is correct since the chokes definitely heat up. And on the wire there is only space for memory and GPU power chips. But I think that
even if the elements themselves don’t heat up, they still heat up from those elements that are next to each other, I think it was worth it bother and put thermal pads and copper plates at least on the chokes, I'm waiting for the experts' opinion on this in the comments there is also a question about the rp12 relay. Is there a mini analogue of the relay on 46 contacts for a small price, it would be nice to find a similar relay since rp12 is expensive and rare. In general, the idea of buying a powerful computer appeared back in the twentieth year and in the twenty- first year, when some funds appeared, I decided to order an assembly from the DNS where they gave me a sheet with the transfer all the components and every time I saw something wrong in the NM after which I decided to assemble the computer myself. At first I was interested in the water cooling of the processor and then everything somehow started to grow. First I I thought so: Why should there be only a percent on the water, or only a percent and a video card? Well, and so on, after which the idea arose to assemble a full water cooling and shoot a video, but due to mining and the wild rise in prices due to difficulties in finding the purchase of, for example, a case that it just didn’t appear on sale for a long time because of this, most of the assembly took place in April of the twenty-second year, and again due to lack of funds, only a year and a half later in November of the twenty-third year it was possible to continue it, completing it in July twenty fourth, I know how and what to do today, having knowledge about microcircuits and, most importantly, money. I could repeat it
in about 3 months, two of which I would spend on purchases, and I have an idea on how to make really better cooling without a bunch of radiators and fans, and so on. I hope that my video about assembling almost one hundred percent water cooling will help those who will assemble something similar more difficult or easier, it doesn’t matter the protection circuit, the microcircuit for controlling the pump and the sheet with all purchases can be found under the video, that’s all thanks for view Bye everyone
2025-01-04 04:22
