кинокамера Киев 16 Э обзор

hello friends Today I want to introduce you I’ve been wanting to introduce you for a long time, but due to the fact that I still couldn’t figure out the batteries, so I had it lying separately Camera movie camera Kiev 16 mm And the letter E means that it’s a movie camera with an electric drive. This feature of it is that it’s very compact, so small. You can use it for traveling and the fact that it can be charged with full 30 m of sixteen-millimeter film, just like an alpha semi-automatic By the way, they are somewhat similar. I mean the mount of the SE mount. Here the mount is the same, whatever it is, and the lenses they came with are Vega 7. These are 7. I’ll even show you Alpha. Compare

Alpha and Kiev. Alpha semi-automatic, too. K 16 Alpha semi-automatic. The only thing here is that charging is done with cassettes like this. And here we have ordinary standard thirty-meter reels. The fact is that their lenses are interchangeable and they had practically the same equipment. identical Here in this version there is also a filter, it was also in a separate box, I immediately screwed it on And this above the boxes are the same, you see, yes Then there were extension rings And here, too, they are the same configuration The package should also have had this adapter for the M42 But here it wasn’t there It didn’t turn out I got a movie camera and here it is present, but it can be used here too So it turned out to be even a slightly double package with almost no green filter and without And I have the same lens from this movie camera a little spoiled There is a video there I have called Vega 7 And let's immediately compare it with the Krasnogorsk movie camera in size Krasnogorsk is so heavy Well, that's about the difference Krasnogorsk is like this and this is the KF 16e movie camera Let's see what it can do with us You can automatically adjust it for films from 11 to 350 ISO Well, in a new way according to the standard it is 400 units, 350 is according to GOST and according to the current ISO it corresponds to 400. Now it can shoot in frames and with frequencies of 16, 24 and 32. We have a handle with an old thread here. In general, friends turned the handle

and you see there is a secret place here. And I can’t understand why, since ordinary light filters are not included here, they do not fit in diameter, that is, they are larger. Perhaps the handle is not original So no, it should be Everything corresponds Yeah Question I discovered this quite recently, but I’ll think about it Strap And the kit came with this kind of carrying bag Er, or rather, it’s not a bag, but a case, simply because there’s nothing to cling to. It’s all due to this long belt. Uh, instead, it changes and can be worn. Let’s go through what we have here from below. So, as far as I remember, we have this for remote, that is, for external power And this is for us shooting frame-by-frame with a flash, it seems like this if I'm not mistaken. There are instructions. But by the way, these crocodiles apparently

came in the kit, but it wasn't included in the kit. So, we connect it in this way. And you can be powered by 6 volts separately, and it's designed for 6 V 6-8 V. So, from about 6 to 8 according to the instructions, like So Here we figured it out 11 changes in this way The internal disk changes Oh so clicks And these are the frequencies. We also have this feature here. That

is, when we turn the position of this marker in the extreme anti-clockwise hand, then looking in the viewfinder we see that the arrow has gone to the right side. So I don’t know how it’s correct, but in general the battery means it’s charged. I haven’t figured it out yet, but I kind of trust the tester more and that’s it. So this side seems to be all up. That is, you can see it’s very simple-simple, as if at the same time it seems to have everything Counter meters That is, how much footage we have from zero to 30. That is, when it works, it means that the footage is not plused in the opposite direction. For a long time I thought about what kind of batteries to use here. And I found out

that there are three ferum batteries, I had batteries. I have them. Well, I connected two of them at 3.3 V. As a result, 6.6 V comes out there. Well, in the charged state, there is a little more, somewhere around seven-seven-plus. I brought out the balancer and the power supply itself.

A the body we have here plus is exactly the same as in the Sports movie cameras Sport This is the body it is plus So I came out of this situation here, ideally, ideally ferum batteries would fit Now I'll show them They can even be made in series in parallel That is, roughly speaking, like this And another one like this That is, these go in series And two more batteries in parallel Here you can even fit more You see how much space there is And the difference between them is in diameter You see if this one fits here very hard, that is, well, like at the limit, that is, if there is so that the wiring does not get under it I close it there, it presses on it, but it fits in here these would be generally ideal These are pheromic batteries too What are pheromic batteries good for, that is, I give 6 apere current there and in 15 minutes I already fully charged them Well, it’s even less than 12 minutes True, here we have about 800 mA left. These we have 600 mA each. Well, that is, if we make them in series, or rather, if we also make them in parallel, the same means several pieces, well, add 600 p 600 p 600 and plus 600 There you can place a lot of them here, that is, enough for a very long time. If earlier there were 450 mA and 900 mA batteries, that is, there were two different batteries that could be used in this movie camera. Well, I mean the total. There are a lot of these different batteries, but in the end there came out to be either 450 or 900. There are options there, then this 800 is certainly enough for Well, I think there five films will definitely be enough, although as they write, in my opinion, eight, in my opinion, eight films about goes there with those with nine hundred with nine hundred. But these, if you solder a whole bunch of them here, you can And what is good about feruns is that they can be charged with a very high current and practically in 15 minutes you already have a movie camera ready for battle. Unlike, for example, lithium ion and, well, less dangerous ones,

nothing explodes. That is, ferum ones in this sense are very good So this side of the viewfinder Here the diapter correction is adjusted under the eye Inside the viewfinder we see something like this, exactly the same as in the Alpha semi-automatic, there is also a cross in the middle and frosted glass. Matte, in principle, it’s normal, it ’s easy to sharpen. That is, it’s more like that, you know, the mat is so rough, corrugated, like grain And very when you can see the sharpness well, that is, it doesn’t go astray. As happens in some movie cameras, you look like focused and still then once the eye adapts and refocuses again. Here no here it turns out that it throws the image onto a matte surface like this and a sharp or blurred image is formed on it.

That is, there is no this optical illusion. The only thing that needs to be done here is a diopter correction under the eye so that this cross and this matte it is in sharpness And then you can focus on sharpness Naturally, you need to focus on with an open aperture because it should be bright picture Here, the difference from alpha is not lost here, it is not lost here, but the illumination on the film on film here in alpha is a semi-automatic translucent glass that takes one stop. That is, you measured it with an external exposure meter, you got an aperture of eight. So you need to set it to 5.6, but here they measured eight, which means you will have it. Another feature of this movie camera is that there is such a shutter here, it is curtained, it does not rotate, but like a curtain, the bottom of the motor moves at an angle You see, this is how it looks.

It’s so interesting. Yes, even now I’ll launch it for you. Well, I don’t know, it won’t be visible. At low speed. That’s how it moves up and down. Looking through the viewfinder, we see flickering. Just like on the Krasnogorsk camera, flickering is also visible, but this doesn’t bother us in principle. That is, first you focus

and then close the aperture to the desired one and shoot. The letter P has three positions - it’s like, well fuse This is not a start, this is exactly what they call a fuse according to those standards. Then here you need to pay attention to the fact that you don’t want to rotate it in a half-pressed state, it’s not worth it because you can break this upper limp. Here it is tightened by one bolt at the same time. It’s also a marker. Raise it up a little

and rotate it by one. One is our time-lapse shooting. That is, one frame per press. That’s how it goes And then we go on s eh bukchka S This is filming already . So look here there is such a feature in this movie camera that it is there due to the fact that I disassembled it, so I did some preventive maintenance, so I know there are two push-buttons inside. They are designed for single-player mode, that is, you see, yes, it’s

like the engine is spinning, but it spins at idle. He took the frame, but then it doesn’t move the film. There are these two push-buttons. And here a little bit is done, so on the verge, let’s say they either sharpened it, I see that this tail was sharpened a little and it, uh, then doesn’t catch well on this second one. the plate is exactly when the shooting is already underway. Therefore, here it will be a little necessary to find such a position. That is, you see, yes, the engine is spinning, but nothing is rotating, so a little bit back so that it Well, this is exactly the reason for this particular camera. In general, this cutout, this pin is responsible for the push button. If it is slightly turned in the other direction, there are two push buttons there, one and there is a second one behind it. If he doesn’t press the second one,

it happens like this. That ’s how it happens. It should look like this. there she is, she should press the second one. And if it’s slightly turned, turned to the right, clockwise, then it doesn’t engage, it doesn’t push. This one here. Perhaps it was sawed off a lot. Maybe it should be a little bit larger. Here, someone at the factory sawed it off badly. That’s the situation. Figured it out. Now we open this compartment where our cassette is located. It’s interesting that the compactness of the movie camera was made due to this very breathable thing. receiving roller Well, these rollers,

instead of the central drum, they made two of these small toothed drums. And here is also such a feature when we load the film. Here there is this table that pulls back, but somehow it’s also made a little, well, incorrectly, it probably rises. I’ll take it once and it rises. In order to get it to the extreme position,

you need two fingers, that is, push it down and pull it to the charging position. You see, this is the trick Now here there are these I guess, how can I explain it so that the film of the gear drum does not drop off? There are such clamps, I don’t know what they are called. But when the lid is closed, these two stoppers are pressed and they are already locked, that is, they no longer move, do not open. Well, as if such protection is made. Everything is very compact, so here you need to be careful

, well, load the film film very correctly. Now let me show you how the cassette works. I already took one of the cassettes. Yes, I mean developed. Is it possible to use one-sided, yes, you can use one-sided perforation as well as double-sided That is, in this sense, everything is fine. Unlike the KF16s2 movie camera where you can only use double-sided, in the KF 16S3 you can already use one-sided and double-sided. So, the take-up roller and the feed roller. So they

are connected to each other like this so that when we have a roll, it is here, as it shrinks and moves to the take-up reel, it moves. So interesting cassette in order to save space Charging goes uh here there are two rollers on the feed and two on the receive four in total there are four rollers between them you need especially when you are charging it in the dark Well, I mean, of course in the dark you are charging it You need to not miss it so as not not to do so, namely to pass the film between the rollers Well, it’s not difficult, in principle, to cut a little there with a corner and you can already check with your fingers Here they are The roller is felt from this side the roller is felt from this side This is all natural in the dark everything is charging We take out the film and at the same time return it back But here it’s already in another slot It will go between the rollers on its own This is not a problem If there is a spring like that, you can move it a little to the side like this to put the film in and then press it all together The rollers don’t fit so look don’t lose it I got one there I got without one I had to trick myself Well if the server there basically doesn’t matter there it’s just that here uh here we have it here the tetrahedron is like this Here it is, so don’t lose the video in short That’s it, that’s how it’s charged The emulsion is inside here Here the emulsion comes out to the lens and goes back to the emulsion goes to the inside of this wound receiving drum Now carefully you need to get these two cutouts onto the film film so as not to crush it somehow. That is, just like that in the dark you will feel that it has entered you and then close it. But when the film film is loaded in our transport position, well, without shooting, then you put on this protective bracket. By the way, it is so unreliable It either doesn’t match in size a little And I have one there, it burst, that is, it was overheated or something like a spring-loaded one, it’s good, but it burst. Why

is it necessary because here, after all, small gaps remain? And if some more direct light source gets into it, it can get into the cassette and illuminate some part of the film film. I kind of consider this a disadvantage. It’s made a little bit, well, for transporting the film film, it’s good, of course , that it’s nowhere there, there are no additional corners of these kinds of kinks. But for But for what can light up, they made just such a simple bracket Well you need to charge in a dim place, or the weather is cloudy there, or cover it a little with your body so that the sun doesn’t get into the direct rays. Well, there’s nothing you can do. There’s a little bit of light, if it lights up there, it’s not scary. So, we measured this distance and this is how we got the loop. We put this

hole on this pin, we have a receiving one, but I don’t seem to be putting it on completely. I put it on the roadway, but not completely because that we need everything here at the same time, as it were, That is, we can pull the table back like this . In general, we need to train. Train in order to do this. So these are the ones that are pulled back during exercise. You can adjust the loops, but then you will definitely need to check to move it back and forth so that we have an engagement here. Now here we have it so that it gets on the tooth. So now I got it all here. Make bigger loops because I did the test for the first time and

made a little small loop. I didn’t want to it concerned these matters So it’s better to let it touch a little So pull it back and increase it by one perforation so that it doesn’t touch this place and then there won’t be a blurry image We continue to check the receiving one And now we can try to look at sixteen frames So, well, I have some film here, maybe the perforations are torn there, so there may be a problem in the grabber Well now, in principle, it seems to be charging more or less normally Here we have a film running Everything is fine Let's see what it looks like inside And then turn it on for 24 frames This is how it looks inside Let's turn it on at 24 frames per second [applause] This is how it looks It rises because there is no lid And at 32 [applause] That is, you see, yes here it increases here it decreases and at the same time a spring pushes it to this place You see, this is the circuit it has , such a device so that this video will increase and it will cover this distance And for this reason, this decreases And this is our slider system, it allows this video to increase and this one to decrease Everything Well, 24 frames per second This is how it looks In principle, it shoots normally I did a second test because the first one with the loops here I say I didn’t guess a little I made small loops and it seemed to me that it seemed to be going but the rumor was not audible Here in Krasnogorsk you can hear when the loops go there very well you can hear the film starting to tear There's an image here, but it's so blurry Well, as you can see, everything is going fine here Tape drive If you charge it correctly, nothing should change until the end of shooting [music] [music] [music] taradaradara tarara [music] tarara따라 tararara tatarara tarararararararara How will it look with an adapter for M42 You can screw in different lenses here Like this [applause] Here it works Nothing interferes Everything This is what it looks like with a lens with a Gus lens This is our very first Helius 44 m there is an aperture switch, that is, automatic or manual That is, it’s convenient here if, for example, you ’re shooting, you know that you have an aperture of eight, but you urgently need to refocus so as not to constantly run after the aperture. You just switch the switch and that’s it. On others, you’ll have to block this tail so that it’s always there, I mean where there’s no such option.

On the Pentacon, there’s also such a slider switch for manual and automatic. Therefore, for movie cameras like Krasnokorsk and well, all the others like this, it’s advisable to purchase it with this one with this ability to switch the aperture for focusing That is, you focus, then once you turn it on to the aperture that you have already set and that’s it and continue to shoot. This is how it looks. With that, I screwed it on for the first time, I didn’t try to shoot, but from the Alpha semi-automatic movie camera I know that mirror focusing works perfectly. That is, I think that it will work here too. By the way, they are even a little similar in color. That is, the footage values ​​​​may not coincide, but it can even be there, for example, to infinity it may not reach infinity, but due to the fact that we have this cyperfocal distance, and even infinity works well here.

Well, in terms of footage, it may slightly not coincide due to the fact that the segments there are slightly incorrectly adjusted to different ones. Here here here here Well, I haven’t tried it. Now I’ve focused, and about a little more than 2 m to the place where I just focused. In principle, here with this lens, this distance is calculated correctly And this is the Czech from myopts E in the sense that this is what myopta is called now I’ll say Yes Larg 12.5

That is, here maybe the focusing I mean marking the graduation of the footage is not under does not correspond to the footage as you measured through the mirror That is, you need to trust the mirror here and there too That is, what you showed with a mirror mirror focusing metering, this will be the most correct not in terms of footage But here, but with Soviet lenses it is possible that the footage will correspond Here it corresponds exactly to me I also measured it, so 2 m means and here 2 m is shown, that is, you can even use a tape measure here, but others, I say that from the Czech movie cameras, lenses are already there only on the mirror or somewhere. Well, I don’t think it’s worth changing something there, the working distance is this one, I mean, although you can change it if you have a smart axe, then you can either add a little there or remove a little So there, if if we succeed there in infinity doesn’t hit there anymore, the macro goes, oh yes, it means you need to remove it a little Well , it turns out a little so that the lens sits down more, but here, as in macro, it shoots closer than what is written here 0.3 In fact, you can shoot from a very close distance, and from such a distance. This is how much we have here, well, about 25 cm , a little less than in general, when I climbed, I knocked the adjustment a little, I started to tighten it a little, I wanted to tighten it a little and I knocked down the shooting frequency a little, so I already achieved a speed of 24 frames per second.

Here, well, almost 23 there, well, almost 24 frames per second, I achieved But 16 I got 14, well, about fifteen and 32, I also got 33. I didn’t change that anymore, because if I need accelerated, then it will be very accelerated. And if I need slow motion, it will be so well slowed down. Therefore, the most important thing for me is 24 frames per second to match And that's all There's no problem There's a slider there and there's a bolt and a control washer on it And that's all Because of this bolt Well, the only thing I needed every time on video on a camcorder I filmed and counted the number of revolutions so that it corresponded then in the end to twenty frames per second What's here, unlike Alpha, where there is glass, here it's already better Well, the price was 240 rubles Alpha semi-automatic And this 560 seems to be something like that More than twice as expensive This movie camera is compact Well, if you don’t have a handle you can even put it in a good big pocket You see, it fits in my hand And it’s 16 mm It’s 16 mm Now I’ll show you Super 8 Well, let’s compare it with a quartz movie camera A little more and even it’s already a little bit You see so if you compare, it’s even narrower. Well, due to this, the only thing that may be is that

the size is increased And so 16 mm 30 m and 15 m supervo Filters here in our kit are 35.5 by 0 whole and its multiplicity is two And the green one also has a multiplicity of 2 GZ yellow-green, which means it turns out That is, a little bit not completely green but yellow-green Extension rings Interesting on the largest how close it will be Here, it’s as if it’s not a piece of glass like in Alpha Already somehow you can change lenses more boldly But there I’m still more like you know how to be wary of all this No, really, look at this distance Now I’ll show you exactly to the inscription Now I saw the inscription That is, there’s practically half a centimeter on the big Another thing I can say is that I have this attention inscription like we have it, but this inscription it’s on the whole screen then there is this much here it is from this distance How much here, well, less than a centimeter, you can shoot macro on the largest extension ring In the viewfinder, in addition to this cross and below there is also this cutout And you need to get the arrow to be, that is, the aperture When you have already focused, after that, turn the aperture until your arrow is set between well, in this cutout This will correspond I shot on film of which 11 and tried it, I completely trusted the automaticity of the movie camera but it matched That is, the frames turned out to be of good density correctly, I mean not overcooked, not underdrawn So we have this mediocre one, well, now the smallest one is the smallest extension ring Let's see at what distance the exposure metering works OK It seems like it's old I don't remember what years but it works properly That is, the arrow goes to the alpha semi-automatic too, but you need separate batteries like RC53 or rechargeable batteries That's how I bought 1.2 V batteries and they are charged, it turns out somewhere, too, one 30-something volts And more or less already at least closer to what is possible So we have macro here, yeah here we have macro Here is the smallest ring Here is the entire screen with a battery Everything from edge to edge with this lens, of course, with different lenses it will show differently Well, there is a little bit more a couple of millimeters at the edges Here is his image in macro mode So the rings work well, you can remove some small inscriptions or there is a microcosm some kind of insects through extension rings Well, enough, I’m saying that this small ring, well, maybe you can also have something like this in stock And that’s all These are already completely superfluous These are very large So I seem to have told you everything If you are interested in anything else, ask questions because maybe I missed something But this is the extreme position when you go to measure the battery, that is, in this counterclockwise we turned it Here it came out completely out of steam from the marking 11 counterclockwise A here the arrow went to the right extreme position Well, as if I still didn’t fully understand how it is, according to the instructions, what this means But in this position the only thing that cannot be held for a long time because it constantly seems to freeze, so you need to return it to that Impot on the battery they will put it, so you need to return it to position e your 11 there or whatever you have there And here, too, depending on the shooting frequency, you can set it like this 350 350 yes and like this in the 24 frame position per second you can’t here it won’t be possible to set 400 only 250 well 350 250 and at 16 fear per second only 180 The exposure meter is powered by batteries and you need to go into the fuse so that your button is inactive And let me show you frame-by-frame like ours I like that it’s compact I like that here you can set 30 m, unlike the KF16 S3 movie camera in which you can only 15 m into the cassette There are also cassettes there Then here we can somehow control the hinges That is, at any moment we can open and see the hinges are gone, not gone And in Kiev 163 there, in principle, if the hinges go there, it will just stand up and that’s it. Here you can somehow correct it and it will continue to shoot. Now, that there is an electric drive, this means that we can shoot some kind of interview continuously until all the film is gone. This is also very good. And it means that here there are always pure frames, regardless of the power of the charged spring and where at the end the possible frames slow down. Here, after all, there is a constant frame rate. It’s like

electrically, electrically, well, I’m saying that you can take the whole film, that is, you don’t worry that at some point you will run out of winding the spring or something else, some important moment The only thing you need to monitor is possible you need to make a second set of batteries if you go out somewhere to shoot Well, you always need to multiply by three If you go to shoot for an hour, take it for 3 hours This applies to film material and batteries What other disadvantages are this is what I showed you Here, here’s a little bit with these push-buttons The adjustments are not very precise The thing about the advantages is that its exposure metering comes from the same batteries And the cassette can be changed at any time to, for example black and white color or negative positive there convertible And this is also a kind of advantage The only thing that will need to be written down on each cassette is how many meters were filmed, stick some pieces of paper and mark what kind of film you have and how much you shot on it because the counter will be reset after you take out the cassette, this lever goes to the extreme position and it disengages the meter counting mechanism and it the harness is thrown to zero And I also forgot to say here there is a place for the cable. I saw these on sale without this one, without this button. This means that this bolt was not clamped well and it just flew off. You need to pay attention then, before you do, if

it’s dangling like this, I’ll probably put it on some kind of uh, I just took it apart, so I adjusted it, so I haven’t worked on this button yet. Well, I’ll probably glue it with two-component glue. That’s all And I'll twist it I'll twist it It will freeze and be in this position because I saw that without it, that is, it's not a problem, but you have to grind it out yourself because the switch needs to be raised like this in order to switch the safety position to the shooting mode When the film runs out, in principle, you can hear it. I also know, sometimes I do such tricks. I take it at the end of the film like this with some

type of feeder, I make it like this. And then when it passes through this path it either gets stuck or you can hear it, you know, there’s a strong click And then you won’t be mistaken that the film strip has run out for you. It’s over. Well, friends, today we had this kind of movie camera KF 16e. In general, friends, subscribe to the channel who wants to help, you can help there for its development And so all the best to everyone and see you again

2025-04-17 20:58

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