Kriesler "Newscaster" Radio Model 11-99 from 1965 - 1975


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g'day and welcome back today i've got a chrysler  11-99 i'm not sure what year this was made the   exterior stay consistent but the interior  changed the design inside changed a bit   but it is a valve radio it's am only it's got  a volume and on off switch and a tuning dial   that's it the the dial doesn't look too bad  it's reasonably clear that the plastic hasn't   you know discolored and the dial looks alright  but i can't move it it's frozen so i don't know if   it's the dials back onto the plastic or what but  they won't move this whole front panel is painted   this color down here and this one here so they  should clean up okay they look pretty good the   rest of the case is quite yellow it's probably not  showing up in the camera but if i lift this handle   up here you can see that's the original color  so it's quite yellow very yellow so i should   be able to use the peroxide treatment on this  and might come up nice i bought this back in   2019 i bought it in melbourne from a shoppers  down at mornington somewhere it was a shed on the   side of the road a dirty shed with a guy in there  drinking something or i think he's drinking wine   he wanted sixty dollars for it and i offered him  30 and i think he settled on about 40 or something   now the idea of this size of radio was there was  a kitchen radio and uh after breakfast mum would   be washing the dishes you'd have the radio on  and then she finished washing the dishes up the   kids at school dad's going to work and she could  pull the handling at the back here lift it up and   take it out and do the laundry or wander out the  garden it is powered by main supply there's no   battery in it but you would just have to plug  it in somewhere else now i'm guessing this is   how you pull it apart this this is an earth screw  as well so i've done these radios before not this   model similar radios and they also had the earth  and the antenna screws as part of the screws that   hold the back on it's a little bit weird all  right let's see if this back will come off all right there it comes so the back took a little  bit of struggling to get out but anyway this is   really dirty so it looks like it's got sawdust on  it or something but it certainly doesn't look like   it's been touched since 1970 odd now i noticed  it's got a rectifier in it they later went to a   silicon diode so it's a four valve set which is a  bit unusual because they've moved away from reflex   sets so whatever um anyway it it looks original it  should be an easy fix actually looking at that now   hang on i can see that's a 6g v8 so they're  a dual valve so it's got a pentode and a   triad built in so that'll be the preamp and the  output valve in one amp they were pretty popular   back at that time now that i know it's got the 6v4  rectifier and not the silicon diode in there i'll   go and get the correct schematic for it i think  i'll take it out into the workshop before i take   it any further and just blow all this rubbish off  and then i'll come back and pull it out of the   case here i took it out of the shed and blew  it out it did come up good it's clean there's   a whistle in there and it appeared to be  a sorter so maybe this ended up out in   somebody's workshop somewhere i also downloaded  the schematic there's nothing unusual in here   455 for the frequency of the if normal tuning  range alignment conventional so they don't even   tell you it's just everyone knows here's the  schematic and here's that 6g v8 and there's   the triad and the pentode so it's just one valve  split so it's a one two three four five valve set   this has got the 6v6 in it but it appears  that there's no um schematic for the diode   one anyway that's nicely done there it's  got the ht2 hd1 the bias there look at that   so nice and easy to read that's good i'll  take the metal uh chassis out of the case   there's some screws in there i think  there's five the little booklet said all right the knob should pull off oh yeah there  we go and this will simply unplug it's very loose it'll unscrew uh this little retaining screw   is designed to push these little  fingers out and jam it in the   plastic there and after about 70 odd years i'm  not sure what's going to want to come off again they don't seem to be gripping it maybe i'll  try and turn it it might just sort of screw off there we go all i have to do is undo the five  screws here and this should pop out okay all right all the screws are  out should just pop out there we go all right they came out oh that's  look at that that front panel came off   oh terrific so i can keep that aside just clean it  up a bit and i'll be done yeah look the bugs have   eaten the speaker again so this must have been  out in a workshop or garage or something somewhere   it's covered in the sawdust and bugs have eaten it  so it's been outside somewhere otherwise it looks   alright looks good and the um there's the mounting  for the capacitor they're good the rubber is   excellent it's like a silicone-y kind of  rubber a plastic rubber or something i'm   not sure what it's called but um it's held  together well let's have a look at the bottom   well the bottom is very neat um got some fairly  modern looking capacitors in there they're not   very big uh what are they 40 microfarad that's not  bad is it good size what's that one 20 microfarad   150 volts uh that's 150 volts too i've got about  one two what six capacitors in there to change   i'll change those of course that's it it'll  be this will work and this will work for sure   i'll plug it in we'll see what it does okay  i've got an aerial on i've got it on dim bulb   uh 140 i'll turn that down a little okay  the mid 30 somewhere there we go here we go lights are on or the light here it is here but we have a lot of people that aren't on  farms that are in units and duplexes that come   here because they get that opportunity to have  their children experience the farm single day   exactly what i thought it's  going to work perfectly so there's absolutely nothing to do okay  that's very tight i could loosen that up by this stage of development  these radios just work so well   in minimum parts it's it's pretty good so it doesn't even sound like it's got  any distortion so yeah it's looking good sounds like the pots losing contact right at  the end there that's great yeah it's come good   anyway so that fixed itself all right i'll just  flip it over i'll do a couple of quick voltage   checks just to for fun and then i'm going to  replace the caps and we'll clean up the case   uh here's the schematic in the power  supply it's got a primary and just a single   secondary there's no set of tap it's powering both  anodes there so it's a half wave rectification   the other end is going to ground through a 120  ohm resistor so that gives you a bias of -5   so for voltages we've got -5 110 and 80. easy so  i've got to power up it's on full voltage i put it   on full voltage it's working all right okay so pin  9 is the grid so i get on there it should be -5   it's minus four so that caps probably leaking  a little bit now the other one was 80 on this   small capacitor 78 and the large one here  should have been 110 i think 109 there you go   this is the six uh it's got 30 volts on 105  on number six so there's one it should be   30 volts 27.8 uh that'll do what i say  number six there it is it should be 105   101 that'll do here's the if amp one should be  45 6 should be 80. so pin number one should be 45   47 and 1 2 3 4 5 6 should be eighty seventy  seven if here's the er six and seven that's   the mixer pin one's forty five then we've got  seven and eight at eighty so that's pin one   should be forty five forty seven and a seven and  eight of these ones 77 they're supposed to be 80.   okay good enough so all these voltages are  pretty good and there's a little bit of hum   so it'll be these two guys here i'll get rid  of those the coupling cap may be leaking um   120 ohms there it is there hang on let's have a  look at that that's dropping five volts so yeah it   might be just leaking a little bit so what i'll  do of course is i will change those capacitors   they are likely to go short at any time if i just  left them there i'll check all the resistors as i   go anything over 10 to 20 percent i'll change and  the rest of it i'll just do the peroxide treatment   to the case i thought i'd start the capacitor  replacement by changing these two electrolytics   the 20 uf capacitor are replaced with a  22 uf at 200 volts and the 40 i'm going   to replace with a 47 uf 200 volts that's the  closest i can get to 40 unless i use a 33.   before i change these two capacitors i thought  i'd have a bit of fun i've set up a microphone   and i thought i'll record the amount of hum and  then compare it after i've replaced the capacitors   so i've set up a little microphone on a tripod and  i've got it a certain distance from the speaker   which is this plastic spool and i'll turn the  volume to minimum and it's tuned off station now   the set's been warming up for about five minutes  i'll record it now we'll see what it looks like well that reading is not too bad isn't it so we'll  see what difference it makes with the new ones in   i've replaced the two capacitors and they've come  out quite neat they've mounted in very neatly   i have the mic set up again and i measured it  with a little plastic spool it's in exactly the   same place now just going by the amount of hum  i don't think it's any different i think those   capacitors were perfect so i'll start the recorder  here's the volume level with the old capacitors   and here's the new ones there's not much  difference is there well they're exactly the same   so the old capacitor is probably working all  right but here's the date stamp on them and   that's 3168 so i'm assuming that's week 31 of  68 1968. anyway i was just having a bit of fun  

but just shows that yukon made reasonably good  capacitors in 68. i've changed the other caps here   i checked all the resistors as i went around and  they are all fine they were all within 10 so i'm   going to leave those in there there's the casualty  list not much at all on this radio so i replaced   that coupling cap of course i want to check the  voltage on the grid of the output valve i'll put   it in dim bulb just to start it up i assume it's  going to work i didn't do too much work to it bulb's not coming on i'll go to full power it's  been about five minutes i've put it back to 240   volts there so i'll measure it here i think i can  measure it there and i got 4.9 supposed to be five   so it's come up about one volt after changing that  coupling capacitor i guess that's what it was i   didn't change the valve or any of the resistors  so that's the only thing that's changed all right   i've turned the radio over again and i'll just  make sure it's working it's all warmed up still there's a bit of noise a bit of crackling going  on there might be some dirt still in that tuning   capacitor so i'll go and blow it out again now  also it's really hard to turn and it's got a   loose area so it'll be the bearings as the  bearings roll back and forth and hit each other   so you can turn it easy there then it gets  tight so it'll be the little ball bearings   in the front i'll clean them and grease them up  and the volume control is tight too so i'll put   a bit of oil down there and i'll see if i can  get some grease into the capacitor there this   is the front of the tuning capacitor looking  through the pole in the front panel and these   little ball bearings in there and they're pretty  gummed up and black bit hard to see there but   they're full of dried grease so i'm going to  go outside in the workshop and i'll spray it   with some degreaser or something to get it  out there clean it up then i'll put some new   grease in there for the volume control just  put a bit of oil there and might get in there no it's getting it a little bit i'll let  it sit for a bit put a bit more oil on it   let it sit and uh oh that should that should  work i took all this out to the shed and cleaned   it all up i used a bit of degreaser on the  bearings there and they cleaned up really nice   so i'll give it a go yeah that's good i've put  the power back on i want to see if that capacitor   still crackles i brushed it out and sprayed it  and blew it out some air from abc radio brisbane all right no sign of any crackling  there the radios we can find   i will check the if frequencies make sure  that's right and i'll do that a bit later   the next thing i want to look at is this  speaker and the little holes in it i have a   bit of masking tape here and i'm going to put  it over the hole in the back of the speaker i'll get this as far down as i can  the idea was that i put the tape on   put some rubber cement in there then remove  the tape later what i'm going to use is liquid   electrical tape and it just dries like a piece  of rubber so i should be able to paint it on here just like that and it'll form on the back of that  masking tape and i should be able to peel the   masking tape off later i did this on the normande  radiogram speakers and that worked really well   i think that'll do looks right it'll  dry a bit flatter than what it is now   i'll leave it for a couple of hours and see how  it comes up i'm out in the workshop i was just   going to start doing the retrobrite procedure  on this plastic to try and get the yellow out   i've thoroughly washed them and they've come up  pretty good there's some little dots on the top   here and i thought they were fly spots but i don't  think they are i think this has been in a workshop   and it's got some welding uh sparks on there and  burnt it slightly so i'll try and sand them off   so i've got some waterproof paper here  this is 1200 grit in the european standard not sure what it would be in the us standard  with maybe 400 or something and it's not doing   much i've upgraded from the 1200 to 600 and i've  no idea what that is in the american standard   it's reasonably coarse it's not taking it off i'll  just keep going a little bit i'm not going to get   them out i've sanded this off pretty heavily this  was badly affected this not so much there's still   some little dots there i'm not going to go mad on  it because it's just you might make it worse than   what it is so i'm happy to leave it like that  and i'll start doing the retrobrite process it   looks like they've put a bit of clear lacquer over  this made in australia the symbol on the back here   so i'll just sand it off of the plastic  here it was around in a circle there so   if i left that on there i'd end up with  a darker circle so i'll just sand it away yeah i think that's taken that off but i've  cut a bit of masking tape out i'm going   to put it over this symbol to hopefully  keep the hydrogen peroxide out of there i've done this a number of times this is  a hydrogen peroxide you get it from the   chemist pharmacy or drugstore wherever  you live and it's just for putting in   your hair to blonde it up i suppose so  all you do is put the peroxide on here   and put it out in the sun in a plastic bag and  it should take this brown off now the process is   called retro bright it doesn't it's not really  anybody's process it's just something some   computer geeks came up with when they were trying  to brighten up the cases from the 1970s computers   so it's just picked up the name retrobrite  there's a whole wikipedia article on it so   if you want to read about it and it tells  you all the different ways of doing it   i live in queensland i'll just throw it out in  the sun if you live in sweden or something like   that you can put it in the oven you can put uv  lights on it i believe it benefits from uv lights   uh you can add laundry powder there's all sorts  of different ways of doing it so all i've done   is put a reasonably thick coating on it i have a  vacuum sealed bag here this is a food saver bag   whatever you want to call them you vacuum down  packing your food in it so i'll pop it in there i'll take this inside i'll seal this end up and  i'll just throw it out in the backyard for the day   um it's a bit overcast today so i might  actually have to do it for a couple of days   i need to do these other two pieces then i'll put  it out the backyard with this one i've sealed both   of them up and i've left as much air as i can  in there when i put them out in the sun they'll   expand and the plastic bag will move away from the  plastic case so again throw them on the back lawn now while the case is sitting outside i  thought i'll paint this because it is a very   creamy yellow color it's got that old age look  about it i'm going to leave the bottom i'm happy   with the bottom so i'll mask that off i'll have to  mask this off and then i'll give it a spray paint   now here's some paint it's called hogs bristle  it's dulux and that's pretty close to the origin   i think that'll be okay so i'll use that so to  prepare for paint i'm just going to sit here and   run steel wool up and down the grooves and  just sort of rough it up a little bit with that   and give it a spray paint and these paints  go straight on the plastic they're terrific   now i spent a fair bit of time just  making sure this was spotlessly clean   there's a couple little scratches i've  sanded them out so i can give it a coat of paint now i've just given that a very light coat  i'll give it another coat in about 10 minutes or   so just maybe need three coats or something  to get full coverage and that'll be done   now i ended up giving this i think three coats  it's been drying for uh quite a few hours now   i'm just concerned that the paint might have bled  through under the numbers but it hasn't it's good okay that's fine good let's take that off as well okay that needs a little bit more drying but  it's gosh it's good it's it's you wouldn't   know it's painted it was painted originally of  course and this bits painted but you wouldn't   know that was painted that looks great all right  fantastic i'll let it dry off i just washed this   this is the tuning dial and it's as clear as  the day was made it's in great condition i'll   just give it a quick polish with some plastics  just to sort of take the dullness off it but   here it's clear it hasn't gone yellow at all i  put these out in the backyard two days ago and i   took them in last night and put them out again  this morning we got about 10 minutes of sun in   those two days so they really haven't worked  as well as they should have i don't know if you   can see it that's kind of these it's brown there  there's the original color there it's still brown   and it's kind of blotchy too so i'm going to do  it again i'll wait a couple of days till the sun   comes out put them back in the bags i'm going  to try again and we'll have a look after that i'm about to do the rf alignment and i've got  a little bit of time so i thought i'll just   lay out what i'm doing if you know  all about this stuff just skip ahead   so let's assume we've got a radio station over  here it's got an antenna on the top it transmits   a sinusoidal wave with the signal on top of it  we'll say it's transmitting at 600 kilohertz our radio has an antenna on the top the antenna  picks up the signal and we feed it into a coil   which we call the antenna coil alongside the  antenna coil is the tuning capacitor now when   you have a coil and a capacitor you can make it  resonate at a certain frequency it's called a   tank circuit so to get the 600 kilohertz into  a radio we tune that to 600 that's about 600   now that tank circuit's resonating at 600  and will pass the signal through to the radio   so that's one of the adjustments we need to get  that to resonate at 600 we have a second gang   here and this is called the local oscillator that  also has a coil and we make that resonate as well   so this little tank circuit is self-oscillating  it produces its own frequency the next in line   is the mixer valve or the converter valve or the  first detector whatever you want to call it and   we're going to mix these two frequencies together  so we've got 600 here our high f our intermediate   frequency on this radio and it's fairly typical is  455. the 455 is what we're going to pass through   the radio with the signal attached to the top of  it we've got this tuned to 600 the radio station's   coming through on 600 we need this to be 455 above  that 600. so we need this to resonate at 1055.

so this is resonating at 600 this is  1055. we jumble it all together into   the mixer or converter and we get four main  signals out you'll get the 600 you put in   you'll get the 1055. you'll get the addition  of those two signals there which will be   what 1655 and you'll also get the difference  between those two and that'll be 455.   we don't want these ones we want this  one to do that we put in filters and   they're called intermediate frequency  transformers these are tank circuits   similar to that they have a coil and a capacitor  and we can adjust those so they resonate at 455.  

so what comes out here is 455. we  amplify it goes into another if we can adjust that so that also is 455 oops now this 455 signal is then sent  off to the detector and the amp   the amplifier section is called af  or audio frequency this section up   here this tuning section here is called rf  for radio frequency and this section here   is called if for intermediate frequency that's  the frequency between the two now so what we're   trying to achieve is this oscillator is set to  the correct frequency when this one is set to   the correct frequency so we need to set that at  600 we need to set that at 1055 and the pointer   needs to point to 600 on the dial the first  thing we've got to do is set the pointer up   on the dial so let's set the dial on this one it  would simply be the fact that this is horizontal   now some radios may have a line on there or  a mark or something others you just center   so that looks pretty good  let's move that a little bit all right now the second thing we do is put the  dial on 600. and in this case because i don't have   any markings on here as to the frequency i know  7zl in hobart is 600. i've got the generator on   600 there and because this is on zl that should  come through loud and clear there i haven't   put a meter on it i'll just do it by ear at  this stage and it looks like it's a bit out there it is there all right here's the oscillator on the radio  here's the oscillator we're looking at here   and what's happening is the pointer is pointing  to 600 or zl but this is not resonating at 1055.   so we can change that resonant point  by adjusting the screw on this one   mine doesn't have the screw it has a slug in  the middle like this one does but you have to   turn it from inside with a slot in the top of the  slack same thing though so what i'm going to do   is reposition the pointer to zl and i'll adjust  this slug up and down until we get it to peak   so if i put my little adjuster  in here find the slot there it is   and i'll move that slightly towards the  zl there so i know which way to turn this   it's not helping it's getting further away here comes just turn it up a bit all right so that's now adjusted what that means  now is this oscillator circuit is now oscillating   at 10 55 with a pointer pointing to 600 the next  step is to go up to the top end of the scale   and we'll put it i'll put it on 1 500 you would  normally do it about 14. i've got a marking for  

3ak which is 1500 so i'm going to use 1500 there  will be a trimmer to trim this end of the scale   we don't adjust this again at the top end this is  all done down the bottom so the cores are adjusted   at the low frequency trimmers on the top i'll  change the generator here make that 15 and i'll   put the dial on 3ak which is 1500 it just says ak  there of course there it is wow it's right on it   so we don't need to adjust anything there  i'll just turn it up make sure it's right it's perfect it's absolutely perfect so i don't  need to adjust it i'll show you what i would have   adjusted if i had to now this is what i would  have used to adjust it if i needed to these are   pretty much factory set but you can adjust them  if you want to and i've done it on other radios   but this is just the tube it has a wire running  through the center of it it has another wire   wrapped around the outside and all you do is wrap  or unwrap wire on it to change its capacitance   because this is spot on and as i said it's factory  set they don't really expect you to do anything   with it later in life but what you can do is  if i change the capacitance of it by putting   my finger on it and come back here i can retune  that there it is there so i'll take my finger off goes back where it was if that had come up  short of 3ak or 1500 i could have added some   more wire backed onto it if it had overshot 1500  i could have taken a bit more off there's not much   left on there so i wouldn't have been too keen  mucking around with this one but it doesn't need   to be adjusted anyway that's the trimmer for the  oscillator now that's it for the oscillator part   if we had to adjust the trimmer you would have  to go back and just keep adjusting back and forth   make sure that they stay the same when you adjust  the trimmer you may impact the position down here   so you just got to go back and forth to get it  right at both ends so that means the oscillator   section is now set up correctly so all we  have to do now is make sure the antenna   is on the same page so we go back to 600 with  this pointer on 600 we adjust this cause for   peak output this coil has an adjustment on  the end we don't have that on this radio   what we have is a loop stick antenna or a farad  right antenna whatever you want to call it and   you move the coil up and down on the ferrite  rod now this has been glued in at the factory   i'm not going to touch it but i still need  to make sure that is resonating at 600   i've got the generator on 600 again i've got this  set to zl which we know is 600 i've also connected   my meter up so to find out if this is 600 what we  do is use a procedure called rocking now the idea   is that i move this away from 600 on the dial  i follow it up by adjusting the oscillator down   here and if i get a stronger signal then i know  this isn't at 600 because i've moved away from 600   i have the meter on 30 on the top so if i move the  dial away it drops off i'll follow it up with the   oscillator and see if we can get  better than 30 and we can lots better so that means that coil is not oscillating at 600. so i'll grab it further i think that's about it so how far off are we  oh just a little bit it's not far is it i'll   turn that down so decision time do i try and move  this coil or do i move the dial to align with the   zl or the 600 again the problem is if i move the  dial and then somebody comes along and someday   overruns it and just moves along a bit  they'll set it up to neutral come back   here and these will all be out it's not a big  deal it'll only be out that much it's not huge   all right i'm going to try and move this coil  i'm hoping it's just a bit of wax on the end here   perhaps try the other end as well i don't want  to ruin the coil that'll be the last thing let's see if that'll move please okay cool i've  repositioned the dial to the center of zl or 600   so i'll adjust the oscillator to  maximum adjust this to maximum   using my fingers which is going to affect it maximum so that's about it there i'll  adjust the oscillator a little bit we're maximized everywhere okay  we're still in the middle of zl   that's maximized let's maximize i'll put  a bit of something there to hold that   and we're done it's got a little bit of  wax there i'll just see if that'll melt in the wax is dried there and it's holding it  quite well i've put the generator back on   1500 and i'll just go up and make sure we're  still somewhere near 38k and the 1500 that's   right in the middle of 38k so it's perfect  all right we'll carry on with the rest of it   we're going well we have the pointer set up we've  got the low end of the oscillator setup we've   got the high end of the oscillator setup and now  we've got the low end of the radio frequency setup   all we have to do is put it up to 1500 again   there's a little trimmer capacitor on top  of the radio tuner and we can trim this   to just make the range that this capacitor here  operates over longer or shorter and we adjust that   so that it is exactly 455 away from this one  and you do that simply by turning the trimmer   and getting the peak output from this capacitor  first thing of course is we put that on 1500   i'll put the dial back on 1500 or 38k there's  a little trimmer on the top i'll just turn the   volume up a bit okay now all we've got to do is  rotate this to get the peak volume less more less and you would have to say that's exactly where it  was so that's it it's pretty simple really it's   just a matter of getting the pointer and these  points to all line up with each other and you're   done i hope that helped a little bit probably  not the best instructor in the world but this is   pretty easy once you work it out anyway i'm going  to move on i'm going to put the radio back in the   case right i've got all the parts for the case  they're all cleaned up and ready to go together   the hydrogen peroxide effort on this wasn't as  good even after the second try and the back is   a little blotchy in fact it's sort of blotchy all  over and i think the problem was that the bag was   sitting on it and because it wasn't hot enough it  didn't balloon the bag out like it normally does   and keep it away and i think that's what  went wrong there but anyway it's not   bad it's just not quite as good as it could be  this front half has come out all right that looks   quite respectable on the top and of course the  the front panel the paint on there looks fantastic   it's really good so i'll start assembling  it now the first thing to do is put this   front in here and then we put that on the  radio so that should go in there there we go   all right there's five screws to  go back in and then i'll come back   i've put the screws in i just got to put  the back on i'll get rid of this cushion   i'm going to attempt to put the back  on again i struggle getting this apart   you've got to get a fair angle on it i think to  get it all clipped together oh my gosh there we go all right and put the two screws back in alright i need to put the dial on you'll  remember that i had trouble with the   dial hitting hard against the case and i  couldn't move it so i've made up a little   spacer here out of a bit of perspex so that  it doesn't affect the light shining through   and that'll keep it away from the case for me  now i've got to get this on it's not easy because   because it's got fingers on it they splay out  it's very hard to get this on that's quite hard there we go all right i've got to   line this up again of course so i'll  just keep going until it lines up oops went too far about there i think that looks good  a little cap to go in the top there all right and the last thing  is the knob there we go all right it's warmed up i'll just put some  volume on we'll just listen to it for a second   3.6 trillion us but the imf notes that  climate-oriented funds only account for   130 billion us dollars so just a fraction of  what you might expect play today responsibly of his 1-800-858-8885 uh pusher and danny shum  he's got seven and it's the similar tail on the   jockeys uh that burden has become a very important  yeah so working really well it's still got a lot   of hum it's only a half-wave rectifier um i think  it needs bigger capacitors to get rid of that last   bit of hum there anyway i'm not going to worry  about it but it does have a little bit of hum   when the volume is up you can't hear it of course  this is a chrysler 1199 they made them from 1965   to 1974. now according to radio museum this is  the last domestic valve operated radio that was   marketed in australia so they hung into the end  there and apparently people preferred the valve   radios over transistors for a little while there's  a bit of reluctance to change look it's come up   pretty good i'm not over the moon with the finish  but it's not that bad so you remember how brown   it was originally so there's a difference now so  that's the original color there and this is what   the hydrogen peroxide has brought it back to so  it's not too bad is it but it's still sort of got   this brownie look about it so anyway well that's  it i'll put this on display with the rest of them   i quite like the design of this one this was a  pretty easy repair and it was good for me while   i'm on light duties i hope you enjoyed it and i  hope you can join me for my next radio adventure it was a hot morning in florida  at cape kennedy sitting in seat 32   row e of the press stand was reporter  darren hinch of the sydney sun and mbs ready to go it's news to  move and if you can hear the going to noise anything quite like this one you

2021-11-21 18:42

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