As Good As New | RM250 Rebuild 20
hey guys welcome back to the channel we're gonna make some more progress on the rm250 today it's back to work so haley and i just got back from a wedding not too long ago that ended up working out just absolutely amazing it was uh just a blast out there in hawaii we had a lot of family and friends that came out but it is back to reality and back to work so i'm gonna show you what we got going on today so in the last video we got the forks back together these things turned out absolutely beautiful and now it's on to the wheels got some new tires got the tubes rims are anodized and basically got everything to put these back together just gotta coat these hubs so that is gonna be the first thing on today's agenda now to get these ready for cerakote just got to clean them up get all this grease and dirt off of them and give them a blast in the blast cabinet now before i blast these i found a few areas i like to clean up just smoothing out these uh casting lines here there's a few little wear spots and some lettering i like to just add my own little touch of these things all right got them all smoothed out looking pretty sweet this will give it this little extra sauce hubs are all smoothed out and blasted so to smooth out the casting imperfections i used a rough wheel from prime and for the sandblast media it was a hundred grit aluminum oxide now one thing i noticed with these hubs on sandblasting is inside the bearing bore there are some pretty good scrapes down near the bottom that's going to impede the new bearing from seating all the way so when you see something like that you definitely want to smooth it out i was using a little flap wheel to get in there but at the very bottom have to take like a pick something to dig that material out of there and what's nice about cerakote it's only about a thousandth of an inch thick and so you don't need to mask off like the rotor mounting surfaces or the mounting holes only thing i really mask off is the surface where the bearing sits crazy so so all right guys hubs are all done check out this color hard to beat that so this is called the tungsten h-237 from cerakote man seeing these hubs all coated up and looking good it's getting me really excited to get these back together i think this tungsten is going to go perfect with that yellow last thing i got to do with the hubs is press in some new bearings these ones are from pro x so a method that i found that works really good for popping in these bearings is using basically a sweating in method where you cool down the bearing heat up the hub and that creates a diameter difference where it just basically slides in so here in the ziploc bag i've got the secret sauce this is dry ice basically just put the bearing on top of the dry ice for i don't know 30 seconds it cools down that bearing pretty quick and then just use a torch on the hub so the reason why this works is when you cool things down they contract or shrink and when you heat things up they expand so it works good if you have these in a ziploc bag and then it's kind of crush up the ice and put it around the bearing and you're going to hear them squealing a bit that's when you know they're cooling down all right the hub is nice and toasty you want to make sure you have a socket and a hammer as well as your spacer handy that way you can work quick so the bearing will get pretty much flush and then you just got to either press it in or use a socket and a hammer just make sure the socket you're using matches up with the outer diameter and that's what you're pounding on and you just don't want to pound on this inner race here so you want to work quick while that thing is still hot and then when you get to the bottom it'll start to sound a little bit different like a different sound to the hit now we're ready for the other side and you absolutely do not want to forget the spacer that goes in between i've done that before and it's uh pretty frustrating so drop that collar in there and then you can just do the same process it also helps to throw a little grease on the race here after you've heated it up you can see if you work quick that thing will just drop right in and then you can just tap it in the rest of the way make sure you uh are aware of the spacer in there you don't want to get that crooked basically just tap it until you make contact with the sleeve in the middle all right all looks good the bearing still spins smoothly oh that's hot and just throw a little grease on the lip for the seal and those pretty much just press right in with your fingers now with these seals you want to make sure the flat surface is facing out and also with these bearings too if you have a bearing that has this seal you want that sealed to be on the outside so i push these in basically just until they're flush with the hub all right that's it for the front hub let's move on to the rear now this one's going to be a little bit different because you have two bearings on the sprocket side and you want to pay close attention to the bearings like the width the diameters some hubs you'll have different bearings looks like on this one all of them are the exact same size now one more thing with these bearings they come pre-packed with grease from the factory but if you wanted to just for peace of mind you could pop off these little seals little small flat blade screwdriver and pack some more grease in there if you wanted to but i found they already come packed pretty good from the factory sounds like i'm wrestling a pig over here just gotta choke them out and you definitely want to make sure you give a lot to get to this thing whoa anyways make sure you don't have the torch tip in the hole before you start but just give it lots of heat that'll help things slide in a little easier and even with it cera-coated it ain't gonna harm that coating at all as long as you're not heating directly on the cerakote that's what i'm talking about that's crazy come on let's see if this one will go to so you can see it's kind of a hit miss and you got to work really quickly i don't think that second bearing was all the way on the ice the first one just dropped it immediately so basically tap in the bearings until the collar in the middle is just barely able to move and see it has a little bit of play but isn't just floppy in there all right that is it for the bearings hubs are all done now at this point we are ready to start lacing got my spokes back from zinc plating these things are looking brand new again just gotta grab a rim and we can get after it let's start with the front man that color combo is going to be wicked now this wheel uses all the same spokes it doesn't use different length or different angled spokes now if you have a wheel that does use different spokes you're going to want to refer to a diagram or maybe some pictures you took before you disassemble the wheel but on something like this you're going to start popping in the spokes might be easier to do all the bottom ones first and then the spokes that go on top like these ones do them after you don't need to have the pattern perfect or anything because we're going to flip it over just want to make sure the top spokes are on top of the bottom spokes get all these spokes pulled through laying flat and you can just do the same thing with the other side now we're going to set the rim over the hub and you want to look back at those photos or a diagram and see which side the rim faces which way so on this wheel the stamping was on the non-rotor side of the hub set this down and just kind of turn the rim around until the spokes start to line up you'll see kind of a pattern here give you a little better view of how this lines up so grab a spoke coming from this side of the hub line it up with the rim and it'll line up with that hole there and you'll notice on the rim there are holes that face up and face down like these are facing up that one's facing down so you want the spokes coming from this side of the hub to line up with these holes that are more upward facing you also notice the holes on the rim are either facing right or left and you want to correlate that to the spokes and how they come out of the hub which direction so this spoke here is coming out to the right it's going to line up to that hole there and this spoke turns to the left and it'll go to that hole right there and also the pattern at least on this specific wheel is you'll have spokes that cross and you're going to have one hole in between or one spoke in between now once you determine which holes the spokes go to and the pattern around the wheel you want to grab some anti-seize and put it on the threads of the spokes if you want to wear some gloves for this it's pretty messy now we can pretty much just start lining up some spokes and twisting on some nipples so i've got one half of the wheel laced makes it simpler just to do it one half at a time so as you're lacing it you want to make sure the spokes coming from the bottom side of the hub are in between each of the spokes that you thread in you can see that same pattern all the way around once you get going you'll kind of see what the pattern is and it's pretty straightforward so now i can pretty much just thread in the other half the spokes and as you're threading those nipples on only go about a quarter or third of the way up the threads any further than that and you'll kind of pinch the hub to the rim and you won't have a lot of room to get the other spokes in now we're going to need to tighten down the spoke nipples and keep this wheel as straight as possible we're going to want to tighten these nipples down evenly so we're going to hit it from the back side with a screwdriver and just go until it's just snugged up basically just snug it up till there's about three or four threads left then we're gonna skip two spokes tighten down this one same thing until there's about three or four threads left and just carry that same pattern all the way around the rim and that should keep it pretty true and we'll do the fine tuning from there all right we're all snugged up i'm just gonna get all this anti-seize cleaned off of here and then move on to getting the rear wheel together all right with the wheels all laced up i'm going to take a minute away from these things and introduce you to the new guy on the team and got some printing to do as well this is nick he moved all the way from wisconsin to help out here at the shop he's been just killing it helping with prime helping with the videos with a contest around the house you name it he is the go-to guy how you like working here oh it's great i love working here filling out orders left and right getting things punched out it's a blast yeah he's working on one right here back in the corner this is his uh office set up over here but surprisingly like working for me i'm kind of a dick huh yeah so he brought his bike out here show them your bike all right so here we have the 2014 ktm 150 sx i bought it only had like 20 hours on it so it's pretty fresh just finished a pipe for it redid that dude that thing is looking sweet yeah we're gonna have that on in a couple days and ready to go yeah me and cameron get some ripping in so yeah he's also got a youtube channel how much are you gonna pay me for a shout out pay you for a shout out a t-shirt t-shirt all right sounds like a deal what's your your channel called uh mint works mx all right i will link it down below sweet so if you guys notice the videos are a little more crisp or a little better give some thanks to this guy good deal so i'm running a little bit low on these decals here these are like the really reflective ones so i'm gonna print more of these up we've got red gold silver and blue these are the colors before they go into the printer so the first one up is the two soaked i'm gonna do that in red we are all stocked up on stickers now nick's getting these things punched off the roll that brown you see is just the backing there pretty sweet looking stickers so we're actually going to be doing a giveaway with the stickers for the next couple days so any order on the store over ten dollars you'll be able to pick a few of these stickers up let me go on the computer and show you guys how this works so what you'll want to do is head over to the website primemx.com on the home page here click on free items scroll down you'll see the stickers here i only have one on here so far but click on it and you can add it to your cart just select whatever color you want here add it to cart and make sure you have at least ten dollars worth of merchandise in that cart or else it won't add so there's one last sticker i want to print up here with july 4th coming up i want to do a little red white and blue and uh some two strokes involved so let's fab something up on illustrator here all right this is what i came up with let's see how she prints out check out these stickers it turned out absolutely badass what do you think nick those are awesome so i will have these up on the website you guys can go check them out so once again these are a clear backing the brown is just the paper backing on there i'm also thinking of doing some shirts with the same design on it let me know if that is something you guys would be interested in seeing enough of the sticker print let's get back to the rm all right with the wheels all laced up we can move on to truing them and doing the final tightening so chewing them is basically making sure they are spinning straight you can do this either on a truing stand like this here or on the bike for example if you grab the front wheel throw the axle through it mount it up in the forks you can spin it and hold something like a marker or a little indicator against the fork tube here and you'll be able to see where the wheel is out of true and you can make your adjustments from there so we're gonna get the front wheel set up on here first slide the axle through and i want to put this sleeve on either side of the bearing as well as the collar so you want to pinch these sleeves against each other into the bearings that will hold the wheel tight in place snug them up and then the collars on the end will just barely touch to the bolts there or the bearings so now this is going to be a test of how good of a job we did with the lacing how evenly we tighten the spokes let's see we got a little bit of wobble there not much up and down just mostly side to side so we're going to start with correcting the side to side wobble here so we're going to get this indicator bar close up to the rim right there is about perfect so we're going to find the highest spot on the rim here looks like right about here now to correct this we're gonna tighten the spokes coming from the opposite side of the rim so we're gonna try to pull the rim over to the right here and so we're gonna tighten the right side spokes and you want to make sure the left side spokes are loose we're going to loosen these about a full turn then we're going to tighten the spokes on the right side of the wheel about half a turn you just want to go in small increments here then we can give it a spin and see where we're at looks like we're a little straighter i'm gonna find the high spot again looks like right about here we're gonna do the same thing here loosen three spokes coming from the left side and tighten three from the right side getting a little bit better that is looking much much better already see it just takes a little tweak here and there to try to correct it if you do too much you're just going to play the game of going one side to the other back and forth and about every three adjustments i'll take the wheel and flip it around on the stand that way we're not pulling the wheel to one side you wanna kind of keep the rim in the middle of the hub here let's see if we can dial this thing in a little bit further i feel like we got it spinning pretty straight side to side keep in mind it is a used rim and the rim itself isn't perfectly straight and it is a dirt bike wheel you are riding on uneven terrain and you know bumps and holes and ruts and whatnot so now that we've got the side to side movement worked out we're going to look at the up and down movement basically how much the rim moves up and down compared to the hub actually it looks pretty solid there's a little bit there let's throw the indicator bar on it and see you can just kind of slide it underneath the rim here and that'll tell us where we're at for up and down play so it's not looking too bad i'm going to find the high spot on here so right here is the center of the high spot and we're going to tighten the spokes and this will basically push the rim towards the hub and even out that high spot so since it's a pretty minor high spot we're just going to do two spokes on either side it will tighten once again it doesn't take a whole lot here all right let's see how that affected it could use a little bit more i think that's about as good as we're gonna get for this wheel now one other thing to keep in mind with dirt bike rims they always have a seam here like a welded seam where they put the rim together and that's always gonna have a little bit of a dip or maybe a wobble one side to the other that isn't the actual rim out of true it's just the uh seam kind of playing a trick on your eyes so with the wheel all trued up there's one last thing we want to check here and that is the wheel offset and so usually you measure this on the table let me pull off the stand real quick so the wheel offset is measured from the rotor mounting surface to this edge of the rim so basically this gap right here is the amount of wheel offset now suzuki doesn't provide the wheel offset for these wheels so i can't really do them to spec like that it isn't super important nothing to sweat about the last thing we got to do is the final tightening we're just going to go around and make sure all of the spokes are tightened to spec now you can do this either with just a spoke wrench or a spoke torque wrench like we got here so the objective here is to tighten all the spokes without throwing the rim back out of whack so we're gonna pick a hole on the rim here i'm gonna go with that one there start at the first spoke tighten that skip two tighten skip two tighten go all the way around the wheel come back to that hole and then start at the second spoke from the hole same pattern all the way around and then do the third spoke from the hole follow that same pattern and once you've gone three complete times around the wheel you will have hit every single spoke evenly and that should keep the wheel in true now the torque spec for these spokes is three foot pounds or 36 inch pounds that's what this torque wrench reads by if you're using just a spoke wrench 36 inch pounds should be no more than the amount of effort than to uh like turn a doorknob so it really isn't a lot but it is nice to have a torque wrench just to make sure you're not over tightening or under tightening go ahead and set it to 36 start up the first spoke from the hole right there it's 36 we're gonna skip two and then just follow that same pattern now after the final torque you want to spin up the wheel again make sure it's still straight looks like this one went a little bit off after a little tweaking let's see how it's spinning oh yeah she's dialed i'm honestly really surprised this one straightened out as nice as it did it is actually a used rim use spokes and nipples used hub the only thing new on this is pretty much the wheel bearing so it actually spins pretty close to a new wheel not bad for a 20 year old wheel this goes to show you can make old stuff pretty much new again with just a little love all right let's move on to the rear wheel see how this one is this one's gonna need a little bit more work so once again if you have a high spot like right here what we're gonna do to correct that is tighten the spokes coming from this side of the hub tighten about three to four and you're gonna wanna make sure the spokes coming from this side of the hub are loose once again three or four on either side looks like we got her spinning pretty straight just gotta fix the up and down play here that is looking really good last thing we got to do is hit it with torque wrench and we'll be all dialed in well guys that is it for lacing and truing really happy with how these ones came out actually one more thing with lacing and truing i made a video a couple years ago that goes a lot more in depth it offers some troubleshooting and just a lot more detail than this video here so if you want to check it out i will have it linked down below if you guys are doing something similar and need any recommendations on tools i will have all the stuff i use throughout this video linked down below that includes the stand torque wrench spoke wrench even like the parts i used on the wheel coatings bearings you name it i will have everything linked down below well that is it for today's video hope you guys enjoy this one i know i definitely did lacing and touring is one of my favorite things to do on a build and next up we have mountain the tires which is going to be another great video so if you want to stay posted on that make sure you hit the subscribe button and i want to say thank you for watching the video i really do appreciate it if you enjoyed this video or learn something new please give it a share that's how the channel grows and i can continue bringing this content to you guys so with that i will see you in the next one keep it prime
2021-06-27 15:42
