The Joy Of Touring 12of13 Rocky Mountains
today we'll follow in the footsteps of the explorers searching for the pacific ocean straddling the border between alberta and british columbia the rocky mountains offer a wide range of contrasting scenery and on the other side we'll discover the pacific ocean with its bustling cities it's no surprise that millions of visitors flock to western canada every year the breathtaking natural sites and the lively urban center make it well worth the trip after starting off in calgary we'll stay for a few nights in banff from there we'll get on board the rocky mountaineer a train especially designed to give passengers an incomparable view of the rockies the train will bring us to kamloops and then to vancouver from which we'll take a ferry to the island city of victoria come join us on our all-inclusive tour to western canada our journey begins at the calgary international airport we grab our bags hop on the bus and in no time we're off on our tour of the canadian west coast in the distance we can see the downtown area of calgary the largest city in alberta we lift our eyes to take in the bow tower a massive 58-storey sheathed in glass this brand new skyscraper is the highest in the city it was built to launch the revitalization of the east village neighborhood which is one of the poorest in calgary the building is named after the bow river which flows nearby it's renowned as a paradise for trout fishing by the river an interesting scene is frozen in time this is the women are persons monument honoring the five albertan women who fought for and won the right for canadian women to be constitutionally recognized as persons we continue our visit through calgary in the company of our knowledgeable guide in the late afternoon we arrive at the olympic plaza a large square in the shadow of the famous calgary tower an icon of the city the tower stands 191 meters high with its 360 degree windows it has the best views of the city those with strong nerves can look out over the city through the tower's glass floor back on the ground the olympic plaza was built to host the metal presentation ceremonies of the 1988 winter olympics that were held in calgary today it is one of the neighborhoods cultural hubs with sparkling fountains in the summer that transform into a magnificent ice rink in the winter further along we see an installation of tall aluminum statues that were originally designed for the british pavilion at montreal's expo 67 the sculptures were moved to calgary and have been on display here since 1970. calgary is the fourth largest city in canada it was named after a bay on the scottish isle of mull we're back at the bow river which is spanned here by the hundred-year-old center street bridge the bridge is illuminated during special events including the calgary stampede which is internationally renowned as a gathering place for real cowboys downtown calgary is full of lively pedestrian streets including the famous stephen avenue it's recognizable by its steel trees designed to reduce the strong winds that gust between the buildings on stephen avenue we have our choice between nine shopping malls an immense variety of cafes and restaurants and a charming mixture of boutiques and art galleries the street itself was declared a national historic site in 2002 because of its high concentration of historic buildings including the fairmount palacer where we will stay tonight for almost a century now this luxurious lobby has been a meeting place for foreign dignitaries celebrities and even members of royalty the efficient staff checks us in at reception and we head over to have supper the menu proposed by the palace or dining room looks appetizing pacific salmon and alberta beef are local specialties and they are truly the stars of this menu all the dishes are exquisitely presented and delectably flavored with a glass of red wine in hand we savor our meal in the company of our guide after supper we head to our rooms the fairmount palacer offers up a completely different level of accommodation with elegance and style the warmly decorated rooms that seem worthy of a palace exceed our expectations in addition to the conveniences normally found in a four-star hotel the palacer gives us a touch more in the form of a delectable platter as well as a wide selection of films and high-speed internet access the sparkling bathroom is ideal for relaxation before a good night's sleep in the morning we hit the road under calgary's blue skies getting comfortable on our tour bus with the rockies rising on the horizon we begin our journey toward the mountain town of banff at the entrance to banff national park the banff gondolas offer a 360 degree view of the surroundings the cable car brings us to the summit of sulphur mountain 2281 meters above sea level the four passenger gondolas climb the mountain in eight minutes we have ample time to contemplate the dense pine forest and the snowy peaks that reach up to the sky all around us up at the summit our view of the surroundings is breathtaking every direction is a postcard perfect panorama the small town of banff extends beneath our feet although it's only around four square kilometers it receives over three million visitors every year attracted here by the national park in which the town is situated we walk from one magnificent lookout point to the next each one with its own distinctly splendid views they are connected by walkways that are maintained year-round banff is situated in the oldest national park in canada the park was declared a unesco world heritage site in 1985 on its centennial anniversary each observation point gives us a great chance to see the magnificent scenery of the surrounding rocky mountains it's time to head back down in the windowed cable cars the view is just as striking on the way down back at the bottom of sulfur mountain we have a short drive to rim rock resort hotel in banff the elegantly dressed employees unload our bags from the bus as we head to the reception to check in the personnel takes the time to answer all of our questions before assigning our rooms it's time to relax in the larkspur lounge a glass in hand the bartender's specialty martinis and cocktails of his own concoction all the rooms in the rim rock are decorated in dark wood and earth tones in harmony with the natural environment the bathroom is impeccable offering organic bath products with no synthetic colors or fragrances added from our window we watch the sun set over banff and the rocky mountains the sun is barely up but we're ready to start our day here in western alberta from banff we'll head for yoho national park location of the famous lake louise wildlife abounds in the national parks as we catch glimpses of a deer following along the road on the edge of the forest we stop at castle mountain about halfway between banff and lake louise the mountain owes its name to its castle-like shape a result of millennia of erosion we pose for a group photo and we're back on the road this time we see a brown bear having a snack on the side of the road and off we go to yoho national park we stop on the shores of emerald lake the largest lake in yoho because of its high altitude the lake is frozen from november until june the rest of the time the surface is free of ice allowing canoers to have a field day its spectacular color is caused by the limestone of the surrounding mountains which accumulates in the lake when the snow melts that's why emerald lake listens even more in july when all the snow is melted our exploration of yoho park continues at a particular place on the kicking horse river in the kicking horse river valley a natural stone bridge stands over the river the bridge was formed by the erosive forces of the rushing water here at this point where the current is extremely strong we head toward lake louise named in honor of queen victoria's fourth daughter the lake singular beauty has been attracting visitors since the 19th century visitors can explore the area on foot on horseback or by canoe in winter it's even possible to skate on lake louise in the shadow of the snowy peaks the temperature of the lake never exceeds a few degrees above freezing so you have to be a brave and hearty soul to venture into the water similar to the waters of emerald lake the iconic light turquoise color of lake louise is the result of debris from the surrounding glaciers the area was developed for tourists by the canadian pacific railway company the cpr also built a magnificent wooden chalet which was open to visitors only in the summer at the beginning of the 20th century the establishment was enlarged and given the name chateau lake louise today the fairmount hotel chain has taken over the chateau and offers activities and excursions year-round on the banks of lake louise a walk along the lakeshore lets us work up an appetite good thing too because today we'll have lunch at the fairmount chateau lake louise we take our seats next to the huge windows while the drinks stay cold on ice nearby the chateau even has its own official beer called signature ale we're offered a warm buffet which specializes in appetizing dishes from around the world from the appetizer to the dessert each course makes our mouths water the attention to detail in the presentation is impressive especially for the desserts as there is a wide variety on offer everyone is sure to find something to their own tastes and if the choice is too difficult you can always go for seconds the philosophy of the chef is to offer dishes that appeal to contemporary tastes while staying true to western canadian cuisine and there's no doubt that his efforts are successful with our bellies full and the sun shining in the sky we leave lake louise and head back to bam for a chance to explore the city before the day is over before the pioneers crossed the rockies banff was for a long time the westernmost city in canada since then it's become a major tourist center that was built up around its train station banff is the only urban community within a canadian national park and is one of the most popular destinations in canada in the morning we arrive at the rocky mountaineer station in banff to start our rail adventure the rocky mountaineer is the only train that transports passengers on the historic canadian pacific rail line our itinerary will bring us from banff to kamloops in the heart of british columbia we climb aboard the gold leaf coach a glass-domed two-level car that gives us an uninterrupted view of our surroundings specially designed for a comfortable journey the coach is spacious and welcoming as serendipity would have it the sky clears at the moment we're served a glass of orange juice we raise our glasses to the auspicious beginning of our trip over the rocky mountains the natural surroundings are absolutely beautiful and it's a pleasure to be able to relax and enjoy this luxurious mode of transport on the car's lower level is the dining room which is fitted with comfortable boots we trade in our glass dome for enormous picture windows as we indulge in a delectable breakfast but we don't miss a single thing the train slows down in the areas with the most amazing scenery faced with such breathtaking mountain scenery carpeted with green forest and streaked with rushing rivers we hardly know where to look when we feel the need to stretch our legs and get a breath of fresh mountain air we have only to go out onto one of the covered balconies for a closer view of the surroundings apart from a few brave souls on a rafting adventure there's little sign of any human presence the historic rail line traveled by the rocky mountaineer gives us some exceptional points of view time flies just as fast as the landscape it's lunch time already back in the dining room our hosts present us with a four-course gastronomical extravaganza we are completely delighted and this is only the second course the rockies zip by outside the window our attention is divided between our tasty meal and the gorgeous ravines and waterfalls tucked into the trees the meal continues with local products at the forefront that are irresistibly fresh each dish is made with sophisticated flavors consistent with the luxury of our train journey since it was founded in 1990 the family business that runs the rocky mountaineer has welcomed over a million guests on board the train the weather is fabulous and we take advantage of it for a photo session on the balcony our train slows down to let another train pass beside us a cp rail train brings goods from one side of the rockies to the other the canadian pacific railway company has been in existence since 1881. it's the cpr that built canada's first transcontinental railway which the rocky mountaineer is using today for decades the only way to journey from one ocean to the other was by train with this cross-country line cp rail contributed to the development of western canada the company also made inroads into the hotel industry as we saw with chateau lake louise to prepare for our arrival in british columbia the group gathers around our guide for a quick summary of the coming activities next to the river thompson we learned that the name british columbia was chosen in honor of christopher columbus the great explorer of the americas to celebrate our rocky mountain crossing one of our hostesses gives us a rousing rendition of a song that couldn't be more appropriate our trip is done for the day but we'll return to ride the rocky mountaineer tomorrow on our way to the west coast and vancouver we set foot in british columbia at the kamloops train station a bus is waiting to take us to our hotel the coast kem loops recently renovated the hotel is both a conference center and relaxing oasis for visitors to the area in the cheerful lobby the personnel direct us to our rooms they're bright and welcoming with modern furnishings and an inviting bed a fully stocked and glistening bathroom completes the picture the balconies look out over the interior tropical garden that surrounds the heated pool in the morning we head back to the rocky mountaineer for another leg of our journey to the pacific coast the city of kamloops bids us farewell with our course set toward the west we'll follow the fraser river to the pacific ocean and the coastal city of vancouver the scenery of southern bc slips by bathed in the morning sun taking in these peaceful landscapes we're quite pleased to be on board the luxurious rocky mountaineer for another day on train travel under the radiant skies we can easily understand why the trip is right up there on reader's digest list of the world's 10 best train journeys as well as on national geographic's list of top 10 north american train trips as we move further from the rockies the landscape changes with the mountains becoming lower and greener and the vegetation becoming more diverse this is the fraser river which begins high in the rocky mountains and flows right through vancouver into the pacific ocean it will be our travel companion for today the fraser is considered by many to be the best place in the world for salmon fishing others are drawn to it for white water rafting but all agree about its natural richness and its contribution to the region's human history which is why it has been designated a canadian heritage river as the river widens we head down to the dining room for a delectable breakfast with a menu designed by an internationally renowned chef trained in the best restaurants of paris and geneva it's impossible not to enjoy the excellent food like our previous meal on the train the options are as numerous as they are tantalizing the rocky mountaineer continues on its way heading right through the mountains following the fraser river the canyons of the region are so narrow with cliffs that make us hold our breath the glass dome lets in the bright sunlight a perfect opportunity for some souvenir photos we are served a snack at our seats on the upper level which allows us to get a good look at where we're heading although everything seems so heavenly in truth we're not far from hell we're approaching hellsgate a place where the fraser river narrows considerably it was the explorer simon fraser who forced to portage around the rapids in the river that bears his name christened the passage as so fortunately an aerial tramway and a suspended bridge now link the two sides our last meal on board the rocky mountaineer is served by our attentive hostesses as always the colors and the aromas make our mouths water our guide is also delighted with his meal in vancouver we are welcomed like rock stars it's the end of the line everybody off we thank the fabulous personnel of the rocky mountaineer for their unparalleled service our bus tour brings us to the four seasons hotel in vancouver the hotel's enormous lobby sets the tone for our stay luxury elegance and comfort all rolled into one the rooms are impeccable carefully decorated in soothing colors and with lots of natural light the four seasons hotel aims to spoil its guests and it's in the small details that great hotels truly stand out up in a cozy robe we get ready for a good night's sleep on the west coast well rested we head off to explore vancouver with a city tour given by a specialized guide vancouver is the third largest city in canada after toronto and montreal with over two million inhabitants in terms of design the metropolis was greatly influenced by san francisco another west coast city we head for stanley park the pride of vancouverites the park is located on traditional indigenous land and first nations people have lived in the area for more than ten thousand years the attractions of stanley park include a bike path and walking trails through an area forested with ancient trees the lions gate bridge is a symbol of vancouver it's an impressive suspension bridge built in the same style as san francisco's golden gate bridge it crosses the barrard inlet and links the city of vancouver via stanley park to the municipality of west vancouver we head toward granville island a peninsula that faces downtown vancouver the neighborhood is known for its artistic flair and its public market here the region's market gardeners sell their harvest next to exquisite local delicacies before leaving granville island we pause a moment to admire the boats floating on false creek and then off we go to gas town a historic vancouver neighborhood the district was named in honor of gassy jack dayton a ship's captain that opened the first saloon in the area in 1867. gas town is known for its red brick buildings and its cobbled streets one of the area's attractions is the gastown steam clock powered by steam from a subterranean vent it doesn't chime the hours instead it whistles them like a kettle there's no shortage of shops and activities in gastown both night and day but another part of vancouver is already calling us on the other side of lions gate bridge we eat at the bridge house restaurant in north vancouver the establishment advocates the slow food movement with a west coast flavor the dishes are pure comfort food and the servers are attentive a delectable experience from start to finish across the street from the restaurant the capilano suspension bridge awaits perched 70 meters above the river a guide from the site takes our group in hand showing us around the historic aboriginal site of kia palano when we arrive at the famous 140 meter bridge we cross it with confidence but with a firm grip on the side rope it's quite an experience as everyone seems to have survived we continue on our exploration of the park which has walking paths both on the ground and through the trees we walk from one tree to the next in complete safety in the heart of the bc rainforest we then head to the cliff walk a hanging walkway made of stairs and bridges that takes us along a precipice above the capilano river surrounded by waterfalls and trees that are several centuries old the experience is at once awe-inspiring and relaxing after capilano park we get back on our bus and head toward grouse mountain and its skyride cable car the aerial tramway the largest in north america will bring us to the summit of grouse mountain inside the skyride car we can see the forest the vancouver skyline and the pacific ocean extending to the horizon there's a range of activities on offer at grouse mountain from a cinema that shows nature films to helicopter rides to paragliding we get off the skyride car to explore the area hoping to get a few photos of the region's fauna along with its deer and its many owls grouse mountain is known for the bears that live here protected in a sanctuary that was specially built for them the stars are named coola and grinder two grisly orphans that were rescued from starvation and brought to the refuge a few years ago as they are members of an endangered species the bears are treated with special care and they truly love the attention they get here these magnificent grizzlies would be dangerous if we met them by chance in the wild but here no one is at risk it's time for a lumberjack performance they have many tricks up their sleeves and can do some amazing things armed with only an axe thrill seekers can opt for a zipline ride before we head back down the mountain we return to the foot of the mountain at the end of the day where our driver is waiting to take us to our new lodgings the coast plaza hotel renovated in 2011 the coast plaza in vancouver's west end prides itself on offering a unique experience to guests staying in its 269 rooms and suites each room includes a private balcony overlooking the city of vancouver the room is spacious and attractive with a well-equipped and well-lit bathroom as the last rays of the sun peek through the clouds over english bay our group arrives at the old spaghetti factory in gas town quite popular among western canadians the restaurant is part of a chain that specializes in yes you guessed it pasta we are brought their classic fresh bread served with whipped garlic butter to tide us over until the main course we savor our hearty meal and anticipate our next destination the island city of victoria this morning we hop on a ferry and leave vancouver behind we're heading to vancouver island on the other side of the strait of georgia where victoria the capital city of british columbia is situated on board we take in the sea air and keep our eyes on the waves who knows maybe we'll catch a glimpse of one of the region's orcas our guide shows us some other impressive examples of the marine fauna that we might come across in the waves our ferry approaches the southern coast of vancouver island the u.s border into washington state is only a stone's throw away and here we are the bus rolls off the ferry and onto the streets of victoria thank you our first stop is at the butchart gardens over an area of 130 acres the gardens have been blooming here for over 100 years in the beginning jenny butchard's dream was to add an aesthetic touch to the site of an abandoned limestone quarry her love of plants blossomed into a passion that grew in tandem with the gardens the gardens are arranged into sections including the sunken garden and the star pond the wide variety of species along with the attention paid to the horticulture detail at the butchart gardens attract thousands of visitors each year the gardens are ornamented with unique artistic pieces like the three sturgeon fountain both educational and relaxing the gardens are still tended by the descendants of jenny butchart we'll head through chinatown before setting our course toward the victoria marina not far away an airport offers seaplane rides over the region while victoria was founded in 1840 by the british aboriginal populations have been living here for millennia when the gold rush began a dozen years later victoria became the starting point for european and asian pioneers heading north today as the capital of british columbia the city revolves around its port and has a strong tourism industry after a pleasant afternoon stroll by the water we head toward the british columbia parliament building on the lawn in front stands a statue of queen victoria as well as a totem pole that symbolizes the cultural contribution of the first nations people to the province close to the parliament a monument stands in honor of the canadians that died in the two world wars the neo-baroque style of the parliament building gives it an imposing air along with its immense central dome we admire the provincial coat of arms carved in stone above the entrance we walk through the historic streets of victoria to the fairmount empress hotel where we will spend the night a true palace the empress has provided lodgings to many celebrities since its opening in 1908 including such illustrious names as rita hayworth bing crosby and john travolta and of course the luxury of the hotel extends to its rooms which managed to be elegant and cozy at the same time even the bathroom is welcoming with its marble counters and delicate wallpaper this evening we'll go out to take in the victoria nightlife with its harbor full of boats and its illuminated buildings all lit up the parliament building steals the show our tour is already approaching its end we pack up our bags to return to the mainland taking the ferry back to vancouver disembarking from the boat we find ourselves right next to canada place an activity center that was built for expo 86 the massive complex includes a hotel offices and a popular convention center beside it the drop is a work of art designed to make us think about our relationship with water we have a quick bite to eat and then head toward jackpool plaza this is where we find the immense cauldron that held the olympic flame during the 2010 winter games made of steel and glass the structure is a popular gathering spot for vancouverites we savor our last moments on the canadian west coast a satisfying end to a fabulous trip a visit to western canada proves that you don't have to go to the ends of the earth to have an amazing traveling experience the majesty of the landscapes the clear blue lakes and the cosmopolitan cities on the pacific coast have a flavor all their own and what could be better than discovering them in the comfort of a luxury train experiencing the natural wilderness in a mountain clearing and seeing the pacific ocean as the final frontier that is what the canadian west has to offer for another taste of adventure come with us on our next joy of touring you
2021-06-18 10:11
