The Joy Of Touring 10of13 Turkey
geographically straddling europe and asia today's destination is a real bridge between east and west because of its location on the old silk road it has been a major trading hub for centuries as well as a place of religious and cultural diversity surrounded by three seas and set between two mountain ranges the sources of the ancient tigris and euphrates rivers are found in this country both traditional and modern turkey offers up the best of both worlds after visiting istanbul with its majestic religious buildings we'll head for the turkish capital of ankara sitting high on the plateaus we'll then go to explore the volcanic region of cappadocia before crossing the cogna plain and ending our tour in a thesis an amazingly well-preserved city dating back to the ancient greek period come join us on our all-inclusive tour to turkey neighboring the balkans in the middle east turkey has coastlines on both the black sea and the mediterranean it's a country of highlands and mountains in which the first cities appeared over 4 000 years ago turkey is almost exclusively muslim but as it is run by a secular government the principal manifestation of this religious identity is the ubiquity of the mosques there are also large kurdish and era minority groups turkey has a population of 75 million over a quarter of which are under 15 years old while one-third of turks are involved in agriculture its inhabitants are urbanizing rapidly the country is also in the midst of developing its tourism industry proud of its past as the center of the ottoman empire turkey welcomes visitors with open arms our itinerary begins in the modern part of istanbul nevi zade street is a great place to get started the entire district has been named after this street it's known for its vibrant nightlife this street is always full of people of all ages who sit on the terraces to sip a cold beer or have a quick bite to eat we head for the blue mosque one of istanbul's most celebrated attractions its real name is the sultan amid mosque and it's the starting point for turkish muslims beginning their pilgrimage to mecca with traditional islamic architecture it's considered the last great mosque of the classical ottoman period the blue mosque was built to rival the haya sophia a christian basilica right next door the sultan wanted to prove that ottoman architecture could be just as magnificent as christian architecture as it is a mosque we must remove our shoes our guide distributes plastic bags to hold them inside over 260 windows fill the building with light the floor of the massive prayer hall is covered with exquisite carpets held aloft by four marble pillars and supported by four semi-domes the main dome sparkles 43 meters above our heads the domes are adorned with over 20 000 ceramic tiles much of the ceramic detailing is in blue from whence comes the mosque's nickname not far from the mosque is the topkapi palace which was the main residence of the sultans for over four centuries until the mid-1800s today it's a museum dedicated to islamic art surrounded by many gates and fountains the imperial gate dates back to 1478 and is covered in marble once used for the palace's defense the gate is enormous the central ark leads to a palace courtyard golden ottoman calligraphy adorns the upper part of the gate passing through we find ourselves in the outer palace gardens the imperial rose garden is now open to the public the gate of salutation is richly decorated with religious inscriptions and monograms of sultans this was the gate reserved for officials and foreign dignitaries it is flanked by two tall towers examples of the byzantine influence on the palace architecture heading toward the grand bazaar we cross a state-of-the-art tram line made by canadian company bombardier the german fountain sits in the old byzantine hippodrome this oriental-style monument was a present from german emperor wilhelm ii on his 1898 visit to istanbul the first market constructed on this spot was built out of wood in 1461 after being destroyed by a fire it was rebuilt in stone and brick for centuries the grand bazaar was the biggest covered market in the world and was only ousted from the title by the sprawling shopping malls of today with its 65 avenues it's like a city of stores also offering such services as a post office a small mosque several banks and tea rooms and a bedistan which is a sort of enormous convergence of antique dealers but the market isn't just for tourists many istanbul residents come here to do their shopping as well we walk past pottery hookahs and turkish tea services there's so much to see in the grand bazaar in its surrounding area that we'll finish our visit here tomorrow after window shopping to our hearts content we head for our hotel located in the historical city center hotel asiaday is a four-star establishment with 100 stately rooms where comfort and elegance come together our guide checks us in and distributes the keys the common areas are inviting and the rooms are fully equipped with air conditioning satellite tv and wi-fi rest assured the bathrooms are clean and modern with no sign of the infamous turkish toilets this morning we'll continue our exploration of istanbul one of the world's great metropolises with its 15 million inhabitants we head back to the grand bazaar where the shops are always open and stop off at a traditional sweet shop one of the oldest suites on the planet is the famous local specialty turkish delight made out of sugar starch and rose water we can't resist this local delicacy turkey is the number one global producer of dried fruit hazelnuts and chestnuts so it's no surprise that we see entire stalls of them the shopkeepers let us smell and even taste the brightly colored spices including curry and black pepper the mediterranean climate is ideal for growing fruit the fruit we see most often on turkish tables are olives citrus fruits and grapes our guide tells us that turkish cuisine combines flavors from europe with those from the east and shares characteristics with greek and lebanese food the dishes rely heavily on fish and lamb and the turks love their desserts a few well-known dishes originating in turkey are rice pilaf baklava and yogurt we leave the bazaar to head for the highest sophia erected in the year 360 on the side of an ancient greek temple it fell victim to fires and pillaging it was reconstructed and then converted to a mosque when the ottomans conquered the city has had a strong influence on western orthodox architecture but also on catholic religious architecture and some islamic mosques as well the guide tells us about the rich materials that were used in construction including greek marble and thessalonian granite adding to the grandeur of the structure it's estimated that the haya sofia was built in only five years and that over ten thousand workers contributed to its construction marble columns from temples in rome athens and celos were used here the largest column is estimated to weigh 70 tons jaya sofia is also renowned for its byzantine icons instead of destroying them when the church became a mosque the sultan had these images plastered over the building is crowned with an immense central dome that rests on four arches supported by four pillars many sparkling mosaics more recent than the icons but also byzantine have been preserved haya sophia is a beacon of byzantine ingenuity and a prime example of that culture's architecture the time has come to test out our sea legs the bosphorus isn't really a river it's a 30 kilometer strait that cuts istanbul in two separating the european part of turkey from the asian part the european side of istanbul includes the historical city center while the asian side is mainly residential and is less visited by tourists we are dazzled by the luxurious pavilions of the dolma bache palace which replaced the topkapi palace as the residents of the sultans who wanted a new european style home the result was this breathtaking baroque palace this is where mustafa kemal ataturk the founder of the turkish republic died in 1938. two suspension bridges allow inhabitants to cross from one side to the other along with the sea buses and ferries of the istanbul public transport system we admire the fabulous houses often secondary residences of wealthy istanbul families or former palaces that are now the property of the turkish government there isn't just one fortress guarding the entrance to the boss for a straight but rather two one on each side as it connects the black sea to the mediterranean the strait is a very busy place our lungs full of fresh air and our minds full of images of the boss for a straight it's time to head back to dry land the sierra has worked up our appetites we lunch at sandal balik evie a restaurant frequented by tourists and locals alike which specializes in traditional turkish dishes the menu offers seafood and grilled fish fresh from the sea to get a good start on the journey to our next destination of ankara in anatolia we'll spend the night in bolu to get there we crossed the bosphorus into asia hotel is situated in the forest our stay here is very peaceful once our rooms are assigned we can relax in the sunny lobby the rooms are spacious and well equipped with all the conveniences we have come to expect from a four-star hotel it makes us feel right at home for our first night in asia minor in the turkish capital of ankara we start our day at the museum of anatolian civilizations we are indeed in the region of anatolia also known as asia minor which encompasses most of the asian part of turkey exhibited at the museum are a rare and precious collection of relics from civilizations that mark the history of asia minor the items that we see here come from nearby excavation sites they are arranged in chronological order from prehistoric times to the beginning of the 20th century frescoes statues and everyday objects show us the evolution of turkey's inhabitants over the millennia after a satisfying visit to the museum the father of modern turkey awaits the remains of mustafa kemal ataturk are in ankara in the mausoleum that was built in his honor after the first world war he united the turks under a single independent secular republic lining the vast public square are the mausoleum a museum containing ataturk's personal belongings and a library it's a lively square filled with both turkish and foreign visitors next stop the salt lake of tours gulu and then to cappadocia a mountain range formed by ancient volcanoes as its name suggests the water of the salt lake has an extremely high salinity no plants or fish can survive while it is quite shallow at no point deeper than two meters the lake covers a vast area of 1 600 square kilometers in summer the water evaporates almost completely revealing a salt deposit on average 30 centimeters thick in winter the salt dissolves under water from the abundant rain this natural cycle is used to extract salt from the lake tu's gulu produces an astounding 70 of all the salt consumed in turkey the blue sky is reflected by the waters of the lake producing an almost blinding light but we'll have to store up that light to face our next destination a real underground city to protect themselves from arab invaders and byzantine persecution the christians of the pacodokia region hid their homes underground carving into the volcanic rock they built the region's subterranean cities made up of narrow corridors and many rooms with various purposes the city that will visit today is over seven stories deep plunging over 85 meters into the earth the city is aerated with a great chimney carved into the rock the main entrances were kept secret hidden by large round stones that were rolled in front of the doors in this dark labyrinth we consider ourselves lucky to have someone guide us through the passages for claustrophobics it's a good idea to wait outside after the 12th century when the byzantine empire officially recognized christianity the underground cities were slowly abandoned we get back on the road glad for the light of day shining on the fertile cappadocian plains here in the geographical center of turkey cappadocia has a history that goes back to the neolithic period 8 000 years ago millions of years ago volcanoes dominated this area lava from the eruptions formed the unique natural landscapes of the region leaving behind imposing mountains cappadocia has been attracting visitors for centuries and now it's our turn we'll explore it tomorrow we're staying at hotel mustafa in the city of urgup tonight it's a four-star establishment not far from the region's main attractions on arrival were served a welcoming drink in the great tradition of turkish hospitality and of course now is the time to learn the turkish word for cheers cherokee while our guide takes care of registration we take advantage of the welcoming bar each room is nicely furnished and comfortable but the night will be short we're up at dawn tomorrow for an extraordinary expedition over cappadocia we're still half asleep when we meet up in the early morning heading for a very special destination the cappadocian skies we watch as the crews prepare for our flight in a hot air balloon and now the moment we've been waiting for getting into the basket under the huge balloon nervous and excited and up we go the ground gets further and further away beneath our feet as our altitude increases our eyes are open to the beauty that surrounds us the green fields contrasting with the sand-colored hills in complete safety at one thousand feet above the ground our pilot guides us to the best views of the extinct volcanoes below the first rays of sunlight reveal cappadocia at its best we float deftly around some strange-looking rock formations they're called fairy chimneys and are sculpted by natural processes of erosion some of these cone-shaped rocks are riddled with windows we'll find out more about them when we're back on the ground take a good look around for our last minutes in the air and hold our breath as the ground gets closer and here we are we celebrate our unique expedition with champagne back on the ground we'll go see those famous fairy chimneys up close they are topped with a hard layer of basalt that covers the more fragile volcanic rock called tough millennia of water and wind erosion have resulted in their strange spire-like shape and because tough is easy to carve the inhabitants of the area use the lower ones as houses with the higher ones being a perfect place for storage there are many sites in cappadocia that have fairy chimneys some barely poke out of the ground while others are tall and thin some of them seem to defy the laws of gravity once used and maintained by the region's inhabitants these caves are abandoned today because of government regulations our guide tells us that water damage has made the holes bigger and that many fairy chimneys are on the brink of collapse as we leave the site a local artisan stand awaits us where we can try on hand jewelry handmade here in cappadocia turkish carpets made of wool cotton and silk have fascinated the world for centuries an incredible amount of work goes into their production the anatolian technique consists of knotting silk threads in a repetitive action that requires intense concentration and patience silk is extracted from the cocoons of silkworms the fibers are loosened in hot water and then spun into thread a single cocoon can produce between one thousand and fifteen hundred meters of silk spun together the fibers form an unbreakable thread that is used to weave the carpets and what happens to the silk worms in the cocoons mercifully the breeder kills them with the steam before sending the cocoons to the carpet maker they sacrifice their chance of becoming a butterfly but instead are turned into art if we fall in love and end up buying the carpet of our dreams it will be delivered to our house when we return no need to lug it around throughout the trip it's a good idea to test them out before buying we continue our visit in gorham valley a unesco heritage site extending over 32 square kilometers the valley is an open air museum where we'll get a closer look at the fairy chimneys we flew over this morning in the hot air balloon the region's christian population dug churches out of the tough of the surrounding mountains over a millennium ago while their architecture alone is quite extraordinary these churches are also full of unique frescoes painted right onto the rock walls the church of saint barbara is adorned with red frescoes and patterns rich with symbolism some of the gorem frescoes are well preserved but others have been damaged by humans weather and the passing of time we are asked to refrain from using flash photography but this site wasn't strictly dedicated to prayer it was also a residential area digging into the soft rock the inhabitants made stairs built-in storage areas and even furniture the collapse of the front part of the carrenlich church has left a large part of it visible from the outside the two-story frescoes in the inner sanctuary dating back to the 11th century are almost impeccable it's said that there are hundreds of churches that haven't been discovered here in the valley hidden under the tuff here we are in the small village of uchisar a huge rock face that has been on the caravan route since ancient times here as well the houses are carved out of volcanic rock the fairy chimneys have been made into houses each one accommodating several families the internal temperature of these residences remains constant year-round hanging from the trees blue eyes seem to be peering at us these are the nazar bunjuk an anatolian amulet used to keep away the evil eye we head for the local market where we see a wide selection of scarves and jewelry and here are the nazar bun chuk again in various forms in fact the symbol is all over anatolia it's part of the regional culture for the less superstitious the market also offers delicate fabrics and other beautifully made creations we'll end our day with a celebratory meal yurano's sarikaya is a restaurant carved from the rock the tables are laid out on descending tears before a stage and the jovial atmosphere is contagious the restaurants specializes in anatolian cuisine with seasoned lambs meat and delectable aromatic rice suddenly the stage lights up a woman demonstrates the rudiments of oriental dance carried away by the rhythm some of us even get up to dance but not in front of the camera this morning the hotel staff takes care of our baggage as we prepare to explore some of anatolia's historical sites in the region of konja we'll visit hierapolis and pamukale but first we'll stop at the caravan serai of aksikarahan in the middle ages merchant caravans on the silk road needed safe places to stop for the night the stables and rooms of the caravan sera were enclosed behind a rock wall and heavy iron door a line of these caravan sedai were built each one 40 kilometers away from the last why that's the average distance that a camel can travel in one day an inscription on the wall tells us that this caravan sedai was built in 1231. when the europeans discovered other routes to china in the 16th century the turkish caravan sedai were slowly abandoned we stopped for a quick lunch and then get back on the road to konya we're driving along the edge of the vast anatolian plateau it's called the breadbasket of turkey due to the large amount of grain harvested here because the land here is so fertile it's been inhabited for thousands of years our next visit will bring us back in time on the side of the hill is the ancient city of hierapolis built by the romans this city has existed for over two thousand years inside the city walls are houses as well as traditional roman buildings such as temples and baths these main buildings line a road that stretches from one end of the city to the other at each end an imposing gate of three archways marks the entrance to hierapolis next to the ruins of the temple to apollo we see the northern gate still well preserved the domitian gate the necropolis is one of the largest in turkey there are many tombs of different types from many different eras neighboring hieropolis the enchanting site of pamukkale welcomes us over an area of four kilometers hot springs saturated with calcium salts flow from the mountain as the water flows over the cliffs the calcium forms sparkling tiered basins because of its smooth appearance pamukkale is called the cotton castle to protect this unique site visitors are required to remove their shoes we're eager to put our bare feet into the warm water the baths of hieropolis use the hot springs to treat respiratory disorders and rheumatism to this day the water of pamukkale feeds the pools in the area including the one next to our hotel the lycus river hotel reflects the colors of pamukkale and its design with creamy whites and aquatic blues in addition to its efficient and friendly staff the hotel has a beautiful terrace next to an outdoor thermal pool and is surrounded by tranquil gardens the rooms are bright and relaxing a modern well-equipped bathroom completes the picture we have a peaceful night in store for us under the moon of pamukkale discovery world showcasing exclusive premier content from around the globe the hottest fastest wildest bravest tastiest most bizarre most in-depth and most dynamic shows on tv all in spectacular high definition the best of what we do lives here only on discovery world our day begins in aphrodisias from here we'll head to ancient offices to izmir and finally to seljuk aphrodisias is an ancient greco-roman city many items discovered at the site including statues busts and freezes are exhibited at the museum but of course the highlight of the visit is aphrodisias itself and the monuments that still stand there we'll start our tour at the sebastian a temple dedicated to the goddess aphrodite and the roman emperors the majestic tetrapylon rests on 16 columns dating from the second century its name means four doors in greek situated at a crossroads this monument was the pilgrim's entrance to the sanctuary of aphrodite with a capacity of 8 000 the remains of the great theater used for gladiator fights is impressive but the stadium for athletic competitions is truly amazing with 22 rows of seating it could hold 30 000 spectators this is the best preserved stadium of its size out of all of the mediterranean countries continuing on our way we enter the odeon this building held 1 700 spectators and was used for concerts and senate meetings this is not a pool in the middle but rather the orchestra pit which is now filled with rain instead of musicians the temple to aphrodite was at the center of the city all that remains of it are 14 of the original 40 columns that once surrounded it and the foundations the temple was destroyed by an earthquake and a flood in the 4th century which also damaged a large part of the city and off we go heading to izmir for a glimpse of its leather working industry a pillar of the turkish economy the kercellar company has been making leather garments for 65 years all of its products are made with turkish lambskin renowned for its softness and suppleness we take in a short fashion show of a few designs the quality and cut of the clothes are impeccable and then we get the chance to try on a few of our favorites in the boutique we leave with our purchases heading for a feces the best preserved ancient city in asia minor a feces flourished under the greeks and then the romans we recognize a few of the buildings during our visit the prytanian was the site of religious ceremonies official receptions and banquets a sacred flame representing the heart of the feces burned here constantly the main streets of the city are still here they were once lined with fountains and monuments for our visit to a feces we are lucky to have a specialized guide thanks to her detailed knowledge of the site we don't miss a thing and especially not the remains of one of the seven ancient wonders of the world the temple of artemis goddess of fertility many of the structures in this city are famous throughout the world including the fountain of polio which would not be standing were it not for the efforts of the site's archaeologists walking through the city we have a look at the remains of what were once rich homes here the sumptuous fountain of trojan built in honor of the roman emperor of the same name is currently being restored close to the scholastica baths stands the temple of hadrian we take in the magnificent facade of the library of celsius this is where the manuscripts were preserved protected from humidity and extreme temperatures behind double walls these structures are still standing after centuries of unrest including the arab invasions the great seljuk empire the crusades and the ottoman wars however in the 15th century the plague decimated the population of a feces the surviving ephesians built the modern city of seljuk protected by an imposing citadel the inhabitants of modern celshook mostly make their living from agriculture with one of their most important products coming from their grapevines in a quiet shady garden is the entrance to hotel callahan a warm and friendly establishment adapted from a 100 year old farmhouse built in authentic anatolian style in this homey and intimate setting we are served local specialties accompanied by wine from the region the rooms are simple and cozy with everything we need to feel right at home our windows open onto the gardens that sweeten the air around the pool on the terrace we can indulge in a glass of wine content for now to watch the cherries and olives ripen on the trees roses and jasmine add the perfect finishing touch to this picturesque scene turkey is a real treasure trove full of wonders from both europe and asia it's overflowing with extraordinary places that are definitely worth exploring including the majestic bosphorous strait and the lunar landscapes of cappadocia the country's inhabitants carry on its age-old traditions and they're more than happy to share them with us but turkey is also a modern and secular democracy which is becoming more and more open to visitors looking for adventure see you again soon on the next joy of touring you
2021-06-13 19:45
