The Joy Of Touring 05of13 Corsica
in the middle of the mediterranean just north of sardinia sits a smaller island home to a people who are extremely proud of their culture and traditions it's a modern place but has a rich history that goes back for millennia the island with its mix of steep mountains and sun-soaked beaches has belonged to france for more than 200 years and is famous for being the birthplace of napoleon bonaparte welcome to corsica the island of beauty our itinerary will bring us all over the island after a visit to the town of bonifacio we'll go on a drive through the corsican countryside in the north we'll visit the city of bastia as well as capcos the peninsula jutting out toward italy before visiting calvi and porto and finally returning to the imperial city of ajaxio come join us on our all-inclusive tour of corsica arrival we have a great view of the beautiful city of ajaxio and who can resist recanto beach located right within the city today we'll visit kotichiavari the historical site filitosa and the town of bastelica before heading inland we meet the group we'll be traveling with once we're all introduced we're ready to start our trip driving through an age-old oak forest we arrive at the small village of koti chiavadi frequently shrouded in fog today is no exception but it only serves to add a certain mystique to the stone church but the fog isn't the only reason for our driver to be careful on this road here a herd of cows and their herder determine the speed limit we are truly in the heart of the corsican countryside the fog dissipates as we approach the archaeological site of filitosa discovered almost by accident 65 years ago the site is a large complex of ruins left behind by a people who lived here from 6000 bc until roman times the first homes of the prehistoric inhabitants of filitosa were shelters beneath rocks later they constructed more sophisticated rock structures the remains of which are still visible today on the plateau overlooking the site around their homes the residents erected meniere statues with menacing faces with their weapons carved into their backs these megaliths represent the village warriors it's a great place for a walk through these green hills so rich with history the surroundings almost make us feel like we're back in the stone age one last look at the megalithic warriors and thousand-year-old olive groves and we head back into the 21st century on board our bus corsica's highest mountains are located in the geographical center of the island we can't drive through the pretty town of vestalica without stopping we stretch out our legs and admire the statue of santo corso a 16th century corsican nationalist as bastilica is known for its charcuterie it's unsurprising to see a few pigs grazing on the side of the road heading out of town on the way back to ajaxia we passed the highest waterfall in corsica le vual de la marie or bridal veil falls is so named because it fans out as it falls making the water look like fine lace over the sloping rock after a peaceful night at the hotel castell vecchio we're back on the road toward the southern tip of corsica we'll return to explore more of ajaxio at the end of our tour for now we set our course toward bonifacio after several kilometers surrounded by mountains and forests it's a pleasure to see the shoreline come into view with the gulf of valenco stretching beneath us on the way to bonifacio we pass along rakupina bay which looks all the more tantalizing because of its inaccessibility the turquoise of the mediterranean stretches to the horizon laughing up against the sunny corsican shores there are no human developments nearby only nature and what kind of nature is more inviting than a warm beach regretfully we leave these beaches behind for a bit of quiet contemplation five kilometers outside of bonifacio the hermitage of the trinity is an oasis of calm up on the heights of capo di feno it's been visited for centuries by pilgrims looking for inner peace in this natural setting we can already catch glimpses of the red roofs of bonifacio a picturesque fortified town perched on cliffs 60 meters above the sea with its 120 kilometers of shoreline the canton of bonifacio has no shortage of beaches you can opt to swim in the mediterranean sea in the east or the tiranian sea in the west bonifacio is also a great place for history buffs with its thousand-year-old fortress in 830 by a noble from pisa bonifacio was one of the first cities in corsica in the 12th century it fell into the hands of the republic of genoa and the genoese conquerors built the old part of the city as we know it today including the fortifications the bonifacio citadel is enormous a true sentinel of the mediterranean the massive stronghold occupies the entire headland of the peninsula it probably marked the borders of the city before the arrival of the genoese we take a walk to have a closer look at the city we stroll through the city streets in the shade of the fortifications with a lovely view of the sea exploring the narrow shopping streets one street name in particular grabs our attention the street of the two emperors the first was charles quinn who stayed on this street in 1541 the second is of course napoleon bonaparte who stayed here in 1793. the church of saint john the baptist was built in 1775 it still houses the brotherhood of the same name composed of monks sworn to help the poor and the sick the shady shopping streets are a perfect place to hide from the afternoon heat and to browse through the shops cafes and bistros we indulge in a well-deserved ice cream watching a game of patunk before continuing on to explore the nooks and crannies of bonifacio under the corsican flag that flies proudly from a balcony we head toward one of the city's major attractions when we catch sight of the bell tower and then the flying buttresses linking the buildings we know that we've arrived saint mary major is bonifacio's main church and probably its oldest as well it's been standing in the city center since the 13th century before the doors of the citadel stands a bronze soldier reminding us that the city is home to the first garrison of the corsican legion it's time for supper and we head for a port restaurant called albatross on the menu seafood and traditional local dishes including the delectable buyer base satiated we head for the santa teresa hotel on the horizon the three-star hotel is located in a large 19th century house removed from the noise of the city these tidy rooms are a perfect place to rest after a busy day as the sun rises on bonifacio our group begins a second day in the city the bus brings us to the port for a unique excursion a boat is waiting in the shade of the city walls the comfortable vessel will take us to explore the aquatic caves of the bonifacio coast from the water we can see the lower town at the foot of the citadel but we are drawn to the caves approaching little dragon cave the boat goes right in we're surprised and enchanted to see that the opening that lets the light in is in almost exactly the same shape as the island of corsica back out in the open air we are eager to see more and good thing too because we're just getting started our captain steers the boat masterfully despite the strong winds so typical of the southern coast of corsica close to the cliffside lighthouse we find ourselves in front of an interesting rock face our guide tells us that this cave is called napoleon's hat because of its shape which resembles the emperor's famous bicorn further along the rock face is the immense rock called the rudder of corsica the excursion also gives us an unobstructed view of the buildings of bonifacio firmly anchored on the sheer cliffs that plunge into the mediterranean blue clearly we have our sea legs on we're in the open sea and we have to brave the waves in order to see the spectacular geological formations thrilled with our adventure we return to the port to continue exploring on dry land we leave bonifacio and head for corte taking the highway running through the center of the island under the blue skies we take in the dense green countryside of the corsican forest our bus climbs up into the mountains at the center of the island the undulating topography dictates the shape of the roads the winding road will bring us to los pidale a village at the entrance to the forest of the same name perfect for hiking the breathtaking panorama over the gulf of porto vecchio definitely deserves a stop weaving adeptly through the tall trees we reach zonza just in time for lunch the street next to the memorial honoring the soldiers of the first world war is filled with charming little shops you'd like to take home a stuffed boar's head as a souvenir we head for the entrance of la terrace a hotel restaurant that focuses on local products including wild boar meat and chestnuts we sit down and let our taste buds take over allowing the kitchen to treat us to a true corsican culinary experience after lunch the road calls us towards the call de bavela at the entrance the statue of the notre dame dinaj stands atop a rock shrine it seems that the holy virgin appeared at this spot in the middle of winter in the 18th century pilgrims have been coming to leave a token of devotion ever since through the pines we can see the majestic rocky peaks called the needles of bavella heading down larone pass we stop for a small hike to another panorama of the valley and surrounding mountains looking at the region's topography we can easily understand why the symbol of corsica is the mountain sheep the only animal able to walk freely through these steep mountains back on the road we come to a city with houses that seems to have grown right out of the side of a mountain this is the charming city of corte where we will spend the night this is the city that corsican nationalist pasquale paoli named the capital of independent corsica we'll learn more about him later for now after a long day in the mountain air we just want to check into our hotel and leave the historical discoveries for tomorrow with its 31 cozy rooms and its friendly owner san piedo corso de corte hotel makes us feel right at home but it's not bedtime yet all that hiking has worked up an appetite and we choose a restaurant that has a tasting menu of corsican specialties at this start of our second day in corte we're off to explore the town after saying goodbye to our friendly hotel owner this morning we'll trade our bus for a little train the train lets us see all the monuments up close here we have a good view of the statue of pasquale paulie with no windows to get in our way as we gain altitude we get a superb view of the houses of corte with the mountains in the distance the train lets us reach the upper town without having to break a sweat it winds easily through the narrow alleys of korte a few short stops allow us to get a taste of daily life in this picturesque town and there's nothing better than sightseeing with the breeze blowing through our hair however for longer trips the bus is indispensable we're driving northeast heading for the region of castane we can make out a village in the far off mountains it's mauro salia the birthplace of pasquale paoli in 1755 the father of the corsican homeland gave his people a constitution inspired by the enlightenment long before either the french or the american constitution came into being paulie is buried at the house where he was born which has been transformed into a museum we'll follow this wandering cow out of morosalia and get back on the road to castane this mountainous region is named for its forests full of chestnut trees with an average altitude of 1 000 meters the only way to reach castane is through these meandering roads winding through green forests we pass through pied crochet a community right at the heart of the region there is a 17th century church in the middle of piedi croce that's worth a detour the church of saint peter and st paul stands tall over the valleys with its baroque facade and its square bell tower inside the light color of the wall serves to accentuate the superb ceiling frescoes as well as the baroque detailing we continue our way through castane the bus drives by the ruins of the old convent of orezza built in the 15th century and destroyed during the second world war we drink in our last few minutes in the cool shade of the forest because when we get out we'll be in the sunny coastal city bastia here we are overlooking the port of bastia the city is breathtakingly beautiful located on the side of a 900 meter high mountain right on the sea the second largest city in corsica it's also one of the most intriguing the memorial to fallen soldiers stands in place nicola one of the largest squares in france close to the harbor is the tower of casa bianca this submarine is famous for having escaped from occupied france in 1942 to continue the fight against the germans the casa bianca went on to play an important role in the liberation of corsica a year later bastia city hall is surrounded by swaying palm trees that give the city a tropical flavor a sculpture pays tribute to members of the resistance that pushed back against the occupying forces like in corte we opt to take a little train to visit terra vecchia the old town close to the port in bastia the newest part of the city is located within the fortifications up on the headland the train lets us off at the entrance to the citadel so we can take a stroll through terra nova district the santa maria sumta cathedral has been standing here since the 17th century situated within the citadel ramparts the cathedral is a majestic example of baroque architecture the church is just as beautiful on the inside with a magnificent old organ and stained glass windows walking through the streets inside the citadel with its tall brightly colored houses we breathe in the sea air not far from the cathedral the holy cross oratory hides behind a sober facade but you can't judge a book by its cover inside the chapel we find some of the best examples of baroque detailing in all of corsica terra nova is truly a city within a city bastia's residents have been living in these historic houses since the 14th century before leaving the citadel we stop in front of the governor's palace completed in 1530. it is now home to the city's ethnographic museum leaving taranova we wait for our ride to pick us up at the citadel door our faithful little train brings us back to terra vecchia past the church of saint john the baptist for a last look at bastia bastia is the gateway to capcos the outcropping of land that juts into the sea from the northeast side of the island we'll be exploring the region of capcos next but first we spend a restful night at the eu record you hotel in masinagio this three-star establishment has a sparkling pool and an excellent view of the mountains under clear skies we head off to capcox in search of adventure soothed by the voice of our driver jean-pierre me as well as giving us a taste of traditional corsican music jean-pierre steers the bus through the winding roads like a master offering us unparalleled views of the ocean at the very northern edge of the peninsula we turn around we'll make stops in pino and nonza before turning west and heading for calvi on the western shores of capcos we take a stop in the village of pino on the mediterranean coast we take a drink from a fountain dedicated to the former mayor back on the bus we follow the mediterranean toward nunza where we will eat lunch these narrow roads require the full concentration of the drivers not to mention a healthy dose of patience and courtesy the village of nonza is situated on the side of a mountain on the western coast of capcos perched on a rocky outcropping nunza overlooks the mediterranean at the top of the cliff pasquale paoli had a tall guard tower built on the ruins of a medieval fortress while it looks similar to the genoese towers that dot the corsican coast the locals insist on calling it not genoise but paolian unlike other communities in capcos nunza is not divided into an old town in a new town its buildings have been grouped together in a single small cluster since the middle ages the town is perfumed by abundant flowers mixed with the scent of the salty sea air what a perfect place for a walk before lunch our tummy is rumbling we head for a restaurant with a name that means the donkeys laugh seated on the shady terrace we share a selection of tasty dishes gathering our forces for the ground we have to cover before arriving in calvi our belly's full we leave nonzen capcos and head for the balaang region following the sea westward we admire the superb gulf of saint florent before passing through the village of the same name after another few kilometers on the mediterranean coast we reach calvi in the northwest corner of corsica the city sprang up around its port which is precisely where we'll start our visit a war memorial occupies the place of honor before the entrance to the citadel nearby an amazing plaque at the base of the ramparts informs us that christopher columbus was born in calvi when the city was ruled by genoa in 1451 officially the birthplace of the famous explorer is uncertain but no one dares to contradict the residents of calvi built in the 13th century by the genoese on a rocky hill the citadel is home to a number of government and religious buildings its one and only point of entry leads us into a maze of picturesque streets embellished with mediterranean flora from the top of the citadel we have a perfect view of the port and surrounding area while it does indeed have a tranquil side to it the citadel is not strictly an oasis of calm calvi is also a tourist destination with lively shopping streets offering up tasty snacks and affordable souvenirs a bit further up we reached the cathedral of saint john the baptist built first in the 13th century and then rebuilt in the 16th century in the classic baroque style the rich decorations that adorn the cathedral walls bear witness to calvey's glorious past continuing our exploration of the citadel our next destination is the kazaren sampiro the former residence of the genoese governor built in 1510 the oratory saint antoine is home to the brotherhood of monks of the same name it comes alive at easter time when a procession carries christ on the cross through the streets of calvey after admiring local street art we leave the citadel to continue our visit outside the fortifications as the setting sun illuminates the city's rooftops we'll eat at calvi's grand hotel which is also where we'll spend the night the sun rises on the citadel of calvi we eat breakfast in the hotel dining room before getting on the bus to drive down the west coast of corsica the scandal and nature reserve in the city of porto await we leave early as it's going to be a busy day jean-pierre offers us another song from his repertoire of traditional corsican music we're heading toward porto in the mountainous region on the border between otkos and kostus we have an impressive view of the scandala reserve below the reserve is a conservation zone for both terrestrial and marine flora and fauna as the mountains here reach over 1 000 meters in altitude the best way to visit the reserve is by boat as we'll soon discover we drive on the narrow mountain passes toward girolata it goes without saying that the efforts and skill of jean-pierre our tuneful driver are much appreciated we arrive in girolata just in time for lunch a good meal will put us in a good mood for the rest of the drive to porto from girolata it's only a few kilometers to porto however those few kilometers take us on some extremely steep cliffs with rocky overhangs above and precipitous drops below we have one more hairpin turn and here we are in porto in the port we head up to the genoese tower that has overlooked the gulf for over 500 years this is one of only four square genoese towers on the island perhaps porto doesn't have the same historical richness as ajaxio but its natural environment is exceptional making it a must-see the beach is delightful on the shore of a calm bay a few steps away from the marina its shiny pebbles are so appealing we stop here to take in the sun the scent of eucalyptus in the air and the warm waves rolling up on the beach back in the port our boat awaits it's time to visit the scandal reserve that we glimpsed from the mountaintops earlier comfortably seated and refreshed by the sea breeze we leave the gulf of porto and head for the shores of the scandalous reserve the jagged coastal cliffs were formed by volcanic activity and are tinged red with rhyolite with the blue sea below in the green hills behind it's a breathtaking landscape eroded by water and time these cliffs are marvels of nature falling almost vertically into the sea our boat enters a cave of crystal clear water the seabeds are full of coral lobsters and rare fish that are protected here in the scandalous reserve we take in the sea air and the incomparable view of the shores before returning to porto back on dry land we take the time to wander through the shops along the sea porto is first and foremost a seaside resort where the main industry is tourism followed by livestock farming porto is part of the village of ota which sits higher up on the mountain this evening we leave our bags at hotel la porto which prides itself on being the best vantage point for the beautiful corsican sunsets with its 30 air-conditioned rooms and its view of the mountains and the sea this is corsican hospitality at its best we end our day with a hearty meal and a glass of rose the sun rises on porto and we're already heading out to discover the surrounding region first we'll stop to get a good look at the kalanche di piana a group of high peaks of red granite that have been carved down by erosion falling vertigonously into the sea legend has it that the kalonk were formed when the devil himself flew into a rage our bus heads inland for a moment before returning to the coast towards our next destination halfway between porto and ajaxio karkese welcomes us founded by greek immigrants this lovely town has the distinction of having an orthodox church standing directly across from a latin church the latin church is called the church of the assumption recognizable by its four-sided bell tower the interior is decorated in the baroque style with tompre paintings across the valley saint spiridon is a greek orthodox church inside are some superb examples of greek iconography that were brought here from greece by the first inhabitants of cargueze the church was built in a neoclassical style like every corsican town the fishing village of carcase also has a war memorial but time is flying and we have a date with the city of ajaxio we take a welcome break to taste some local products corsica has many culinary specialties figatello is the island's best known charcuterie made of pork and garlic it's a fresh sausage with a distinctive taste the town is also proud of its neolo and british two cheeses made with raw sheep and goat milk with our taste buds awakened we are eager to reach ajaxio and here we return to the place where our adventure began the imperial city of ajaxio officially founded in 1492 the year that christopher columbus first set foot in the new world ajaxia owes its glory to the bonaparte family which gave france her most famous emperor another member of the family was a famous patron of the arts cardinal fesh a maternal uncle of napoleon left his palace to the city filled with his vast art collection the palace was then transformed into the ajaxio museum of fine arts the city is lively and we opt to explore it on foot wandering through the pedestrian shopping streets after some window shopping we head for place fush formerly known as la place de palmi a statue of napoleon stands in the center in his imperial robes at the end of a palm tree-lined street we find the lantivi palace home of the corsican prefecture as well as the bright pink ajaxio city hall in place a statue of the madonuchia has been protecting the city since 1656. our group heads up a side street that leads to the house where napoleon was born the building now belongs to the french government and is home to a museum dedicated to the celebrated bonaparte family a nearby square bears the name of napoleon's mother at the end of a lane the ochre-colored cathedral of our lady of the assumption dazzles us this is where the emperor was baptized the interior is quite splendid the cathedral is dedicated to the virgin who spared the village from the plague epidemics the massive organ was recently restored and is still used today we head to the port where we find the monument honoring members of the resistance ajaxio was the first french city to be liberated during the second world war we hop onto an open-air bus to take a tour of the city what an effortless way to take in the sights we get to see the best panoramas of the city driving up the hud de san guinea that heads down the southern coast of the city we pass by saint francois beach with its fine sand and warm water on the side of the hill the ajaxio cemetery holds the remains of singer tino rossi who was born in the city we take the time to drink in the mediterranean sun and the delicious sea air of the corsican capital as our itinerary on the island of beauty draws to an end we take one last look at the silhouette of the genoese towers and head down a dock to look out to sea one last time after getting a closer look at the island of corsica we better understand the mix of cultures and heritage that have made it into what it is in a magnificent landscape where the mountains meet the sea this jewel of the mediterranean has revealed many of her glistening facets and so we head off into the world our heads full of incomparable images and flavors from the countryside of corsica and from its city so full of history i hope you'll come along on our next adventure on the joy of touring you
2021-06-15 02:35
