The Greek islands - Crystal clear water and a paradise for foodies | DW Documentary
The Greek islands in the Aegean Sea are as diverse as they are unique. home to the centenarians’ secret. A gourmet paradise, with pristine beaches and plenty to discover, even in the most popular spots. 5 islands 5 dream locations.
Island hopping from Mykonos to Icaria, via Sifnos to Kimolos and Polyaigos and back to Mykonos. Mykonos. Two million visitors every year 200 times as many as the island’s total population. A luxurious summer destination for the international jet set. Even if you’ve never been here chances are you already have an image of Mykonos in your head. The island may be famous.
But it still has hidden corners, untold stories. But more on that later. Mykonos is the ideal starting point for an island-hopping tour in the Aegean Sea. The international airport is just 10 minutes from the port. Various ferry companies offer trips to almost any island. Our first destination is ICARIA.
The island is named after Icarus who, as the legend goes, flew too close to the sun and crash landed. Right here. Icaria’s also known as the ‘island of the centenarians.’ It’s one of the world’s five Blue Zones places where people reach an exceedingly ripe old age. Icaria, the fountain of youth whether it’s the sea or the air in the mountain villages, the food or the outdoor, social lifestyle.
No one really knows for sure. But there’s definitely something special about the way people live here. Urania knows exactly what it is: It’s not just that we live longer, we live happier.
And you know what, we have no gap between the social classes and no divide between the generations. We respect each other, and we care for people. The communities are very strong.
It’s really supportive, the environment, and that’s why I never regret being in this remote island for the rest of my life. Women play a key role on the island some even refer to it as a matriarchy. Dafni’s been working for two years at the women’s cooperative here in Christos Raches a Greek mountain village where time seems to stand still.
In Christos Raches, mutual support is what counts. The initial idea was. the women who live here, and the jobs here are not something easy to find. They were making things with their hands, with local products. And so they gathered together and they started the co-operative. For them to be able to live out of it, with the things they were making, I guess for their houses.
To be able to sell it, and have incomes. The women’s cooperative is a workplace, store and café rolled into one. Everything on sale here is made by women from Icaria. Most of the people, they don’t use chemicals to grow their vegetables.
They don’t have to it’s a place where, if you work with the land, the land gives back to you. Dafni’s found her place here. For her, life on Icaria is just blissful. To the north of the island is the coastal resort of Nas.
With its gorgeous beach, it’s the perfect place to watch the sunset. We have the best sunset here you can have a look if you want. The best in the whole Aegean. Asfand and his friends have some ideas about why life here is so relaxed. This is the nature of Icaria, I think. this is the nature of Icaria, and this people.
Always happy, without stress, he needs only little wine, little bread. I think this is the secret of the long life no stress, just walking, little bread, little wine and we are good. On Icaria, people are serious about cooking.
Slow food isn’t trendy it’s a way of life. The residents’ harmonious coexistence is also reflected in the island’s cuisine. Here, vegetables are a staple food.
Zucchini in egg and lemon sauce a typical island dish. First I brown onions and garlic, then I add some diced zucchini, as well as salt, pepper and rice. I fry everything together for about five minutes.
Then I use the mixture to stuff the zucchinis, which are placed on top of the potatoes. Then everything’s cooked with oil, salt, pepper and oregano. The egg lemon sauce comes right at the end. Evangelia runs Naiades restaurant in Nas, with her daughters.
Always on the daily menu? “Suffiko”, a traditional Icarian vegetable stew. It’s only mixed vegetables, this season. And it depends what we have in the garden.
Lot of onions, zucchini, aubergines, just little bit potatoes, peppers, a little bit of garlic, little bit carrot. And we cook altogether on fire. And so the name “Suffiko“, it’s Icarian dialect.
So ‘suffiko’ from “I keep for you, food,” and Icarian dialect, Suffiko. On Icaria, what’s for dinner depends on what’s growing in the family garden. Thanks to its abundance of water, the island is self-sufficient. The people who live here have always provided for themselves. Irini and Evangelia want to show us their garden in the mountains.
“Not everything thrives the way you’d like it to, but that’s totally normal and natural. There are so many factors. The season, climate change, the weather! Nature? Seasonal food fresh from the garden? Is that the centenarians’ secret? The secret, eh? um My mother say good energy and Icaria give us, good energy is not ONE secret I think it’s a team from secret. We know what we eat, we know the moment, we try to realize the moment. It’s many things. Perhaps it’s simply the strong family bonds on the island that make life here so worth living.
I grew up here, that’s why, I know the place, I know the whole. I like this. I can’t imagine myself in the city. From the fertile north side of the island, we travel along twisting roads through the mountains to the south. A distance of about 40 kilometers. The port of Magganitis provides a glimpse of just how extraordinary this place is.
Sokrates and his American guests Kathrin and Mike take us along with them to Icaria’s most exotic beach. I came here 10 years ago, with somebody I knew from this island, his family was from here, and was blown away by the Seychelles Beach. And it was one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen in the world. Ten years later I’m back and it looks exactly the same. Nothing’s changed, there’s that boat there, it’s been there forever.
The water’s clear, it’s green, it’s just untouched. Sokrates can’t think of a better place to live, either. He wants to grow old here very old. Whenever I ask the old people, they are telling me that if you careful how, you have to eat less, don’t be stuffed all the time, like, exercise, you have to walk the mountains, and have a wife, and they told me also that sex, it’s a good way to have a long life. Socrates trusts the old folks’ advice. He wants to introduce us to his favorite aunt.
She was born here. Now, she’s 89 and as fit as a fiddle. I get up at 6am, then I have to go to my garden, to water and tend to my vegetables. When I’m finished with that, I go to my son’s restaurant to cook for the guests. I do that until about 1 o’clock in the morning.
I love it and I never get tired. I’ve got a big family and I love what I do! The secret of the centenarians of Icaria to be needed, not to be lonely, to keep moving and live in the moment. Our journey continues to Sifnos, a Cycladic island with as many churches as days in the year or so they say. The Church of the Seven Martyrs. With its seemingly endless flight of stone steps, it’s one of the many highlights of this small island.
The steps from the church lead to Kastro. A fortified settlement, people have been living here since it was built. The Venetian fortress went up in 1635; large sections of the medieval town structure have been preserved. Maria Eleni and Jorgos grew up here, just like their parents, grandparents and great-grandparents.
Playing hide-and-seek in a fortress was quite normal for them, as children. And even today, their life in this extraordinary place is rather ordinary, they say. It’s funny when tourists pass through in the summer and peer into our houses.
For them, it’s all very interesting, like a museum village. But actually, we live here. And we’re not part of a museum. There are ancient sarcophagi in the streets. You can touch them; they’re not behind plexiglass. They’re simply part of the village.
Everything you see here is genuinely old. They found the old columns and stones under the ground when the village was rebuilt. And then they used it all to build the houses and decorate them. You can also see over the entrances to the houses very old stones were used. They have a history, going back a long time. Maria Eleni’s grandmother Eleni knits tirelessly for the next generation in Kastro.
Eleni’s been running the village supermarket for more than 50 years. She’s never been anywhere else. Will her granddaughter take over the store at some point? That’s yet to be decided. Just down the hill, a newcomer to the island is putting his twist on traditional Greek cuisine. We hear stories, and we make it dishes.
We try to be real, with the traditional recipe, the flavor, the ingredients, it’s all there. But we try to make it more appealing. For everyone.
Even the Greeks. They know what they’re gonna eat, when they read it, but they don’t know HOW. At Theodosis’ restaurant, octopus in lentil soup certainly looks different. We cut the tentacles and we put steel inside.
Like Suflaki. This has to be very straight. This is how we do it. Then the octopus is simmered in red wine for about 40 minutes.
Lentil fava with paprika cream and tender octopus Theodosis’ fresh interpretation of a traditional dish. With its fabulous view over the Aegean, Theodosis’ restaurant thrives on a passion for food. Who knew storytelling could be so delicious? Food is of the utmost importance here on Sifnos. One of the most famous chefs in Greece, Nikolaos Tselementes, was born here. Anyone who loves good food will certainly find happiness on Sifnos.
Another source of happiness are these rather sad looking fields. What grows here is a genuine sensation. And this is the miracle gardener himself. The man who can get fruit and vegetables to grow without water. Georgious Narlis. We used to have many wet, everywhere.
But as the tourist business is starting, the people dig deep wells. It’s starting to dry out, the starts to spend the water on the level below. And now we are dry! Georgious used his mother’s 80-year-old seeds to cultivate his own drought-resistant plants. After grow the seeds, the root understands it has no water, and making one very deep root only one, for go very deeper, and this is for staying alive. This root is only for staying alive, not for make watermelon, of 12 kilos.
Because it is important for the plant to stay alive, because if they if they have no root, it’s not possible to make anything. I have here some tomatoes. Now is the last.
But, we can eating. You can see the juices. Very, very juice. All the vitamins from the soil still inside and they are very, very tasty for the people. The people who are tasting these, they can never stop.
Never. You pay any money because the people now, have no tasty Oh my God. He stands firmly behind his approach.
And he offers tours and courses on his farm, so he can share his knowhow. Georgious is certain that his agricultural method is the future. Despite its small size, Sifnos is a breathtaking island with many stunning features. It also boasts more signposted hiking trails than most other Greek islands.
One of the most beautiful paths leads from Faros Beach to the Chrisopigi Monastery. Faros Beach invites visitors to wind down and relax. Lovely tamarind trees provide shade, and thanks to the bay’s location, there’s often no wind at all. There are many wonderful bays on this island. Here in Cheronissos.
time seems to have ground to a halt. Like generations of his family before him, Kostas still makes pottery here. With its deposits of clay, Sifnos used to supply islands across Greece with ceramic cooking pots. Apollonia, the capital of Sifnos, is the quintessential Cycladic village. It’s quiet here off-season. Drakakis is the oldest and most popular local “kafenio” or Greek café.
It doesn’t get busy until after sundown. Ten years ago, Janis and Eleni Drakakis passed the kafenio to their grandsons Nikos and Janis. It wasn’t an easy step, for Janis Junior in particular after all, young islanders generally move to the mainland. But the brothers agreed and renovated the old kafenio with love and respect for its original character. Janis and Eleni like to pop in for a visit.
They say it feels just like the old days. They’ve just gotten a bit older. I did find it challenging, I really didn’t want to disappoint my grandfather. He was a famous man here with a very well-known café that was always full. But it all worked out fine.
Tourism also gave us a boost, of course. Janis and Eleni are grateful and proud that their life’s work is being continued in their spirit. Sifnos is an island bursting with stories, traditions and renewal. The full moon over the Aegean makes leaving Sifnos a little easier.
The journey continues, this time to Kimolos. Kimolos keeps its calm vibe, even during the high season. Vacationers coming here seek relaxation, natural beauty and the authentic Greece. Much like on the neighboring island of Milos, on Kimolos you can live closer to the water than almost anywhere else. And you’re in good company.
They’re caves dug out of the rock. They were built as a secure place for the island’s fishers to store their boats in winter or bad weather. Because there aren’t as many fish in our sea as there used to be, there aren’t as many fishers here. As a result, there are only a few boats. Now, tourists can rent the houses in summer.
They’re simply being put to a different use. In the old days there’d be boats in the Sirmata, now holidaymakers sleep in them. The houses all have different features. The house Ieronimus shows us has been given a luxurious makeover by his son.
Out of bed straight into the sea. Ieronimus’ Sirmata is right next door and still houses his boat in the winter. As neighbors go, he’s a lucky catch: he goes fishing every day in the summer, and always shares part of his haul with the guests.
I’ve made friends with many vacationers. Yes, I’ve got friends all over the world. They like it here, they keep coming back. We sit together outside our houses and I grill or cook something, make a few appetizers.
We drink wine or Tsipouro and we just have a good time together. And when the guests leave, we message each other on Facebook. It’s really nice.
The sea around Kimolos is also Andreas’s favorite place. With his Perseas, an old fishing boat, he and his co-skipper George offer tours to the most beautiful spots around the islands of Milos and Kimolos. But the place he loves the most is Polyaigos, the largest uninhabited island in the Aegean.
Polyaigos is Greek for ‘many goats’and Andreas loves them all. A long time ago, people lived here. When they left the barren island, they simply left their goats behind.
The goats are very shy, but when Andreas arrives, they venture onto the beach. This is Hugo. This is Alicia. The girls have long hair.
The others, they are to the kafenio there. I think they sleep. They think, ‘Perseus, you don't come now, because it's end of the season.’ And for this reason, we don't come back. For years now, Andreas has been bringing the goats carrots, melons and maize.
If it doesn’t rain for months, the animals on Polyaigos have nothing more to eat. Andreas has vivid memories of his first encounter with the goats on Polyaigos. I saw them behind there, some beautiful goats. I thought, ’OK, I have some melons,‘ and I thought to feed them. And they don't come down. But the moment we took the anchor to go, then this moment, they walk down and eat the melons.
And after five years they come so close. Polyegos is a magical place. George thinks so, too. He’s been here countless times with Andreas. I feel a connection with the sea.
I really like to be around it, or in it, or on it, so that's why I I really love Polyaigos too. It's really amazing and beautiful water. The rocks are amazing. Everything! The wildlife, how rough and pure this island is, it's really, really amazing.
And you will not find it in a lot of places. The boat tours to Polyaigos are an unforgettable experience. No one knows better than Andreas how to safely navigate the shallows and the rocks to reach the most beautiful spots. On Kimolos, Andreas plans to drop in on a very special person. When it comes to seafaring knowledge, this is the man who taught him everything. He invites us to join him.
And suddenly, we’re standing in the bedroom of Kimolos’ most famous resident. Captain Augustis, 96 years old, local hero and Andreas’ mentor. The two men meet regularly and reminisce together. I spent 70 years of my life at sea, breathed in the salty air for 70 years and I’ve never been to the doctor! He was the person who transported people from Kimolos to Milos. Every morning he start at 6:30 from Kimolos to bring the people to the doctor in Milos. There was no doctor here.
Somebody was sick? Immediately, in the night. One o'clock, 2:00 he took the boat to bring him to the doctor. Or somebody need a Pharmacy. There was no pharmacy here. I always took my boat out regardless of the time of day or the weather, when it was 8, 9, 10 and even 11 on the Beaufort scale.
To explain, 11 on the Beaufort scale means gale-force winds, and waves that are meters-high. Their shared love of the sea has made the two captains friends for life. Captain Augustis wouldn’t think twice about setting sail in conditions like these.
But the modern ferry to Milos is much less robust, and service has been suspended today. Anyone hoping to get to the neighboring island will have to wait until the wind drops. In the south of the island, there’s a place with barely a breeze.
This despite the region’s strong winds, known as Meltemi. Kalamitsi Beach is a little paradise, exuding an almost meditative calm and serenity. Kimolos is one of the few remaining unspoiled islands in Greece. In total contrast to our final destination: Mykonos, billed as the most expensive island in Greece.
Up to eight cruise ships dock here every day. The narrow streets of the Old Town are packed with tourists from all over the world. It’s a place on everyone’s bucket list, it would seem. Mykonos Town is absolute beautiful if only it wasn’t so full. This is nothing. In summer, it’s 200 meters down, the line.
But there are places on Mykonos with no crowds or queues. Vioma Farm, less than 10 kilometers from the bustling Old Town, is the perfect spot to experience a very different side of Mykonos. The farm’s founder Nikos runs this tranquil place with his daughters. A small restaurant with its own wine, its own cheese, fruit and vegetables. Dimitris, Niko’s son-in-law, takes care of the farm’s livestock and the bikes.
He and his wife Dimitria offers cycling tours off the beaten track. Dimitria, my partner in life and cycling. And she's also the founder and owner of Yummy Pedals, so technically I'm working for my wife. I’m his boss!! That’s right, she’s my boss. And she’s the brain.
Dimitris wants to take us to the north of Mykonos, far away from the clubs and parasol-covered beaches. The north wind is merciless and reservoir water levels are pitifully low. When I first came on the island four years ago, the level of water was up there. Where the line is. It was all full with water.
Now, every summer, it gets emptier and emptier. I guess this is a good example of climate change. That's why nowadays in Mykonos the water that we're using, it does not come anymore from our water reservoirs, but it's from desalinization from the sea. We have two or three plants producing water now. There is a part of the island, that’s just unspoiled. With unspoiled beaches like that one.
I like the beach of course. I believe that there are people who come to Mykonos who are looking for some quiet time, some activities and to to see something different than the bars and the nightlife and the beach clubs. So that's my office, actually. The view here is not quite as spectacular. But the authenticity of this workplace on Mykonos makes up for that.
Alyosha and Angelos were really keen to brew craft beer on their home island. Even though Mykonos has neither hops, nor malt nor spring water. We have a full desalinization, sea desalination, plant on site.
So we desalinate the water and with that water we brew beer. Which is perfectly potable fresh water, which we have to do from scratch, OK? So the main ingredient is actually from Mykonos!! The water!!! 93% of beer is water. So that is definitely ‘Mikonian.’ Beer from seawater.
Alyosha and Angelos are two very creative people. The two also offer tours of the brewery and of course, beer tastings. Mykonos is their great love. Even if the island’s jet-set lifestyle is a far cry from their own. I'm used to this. I grew up here, so I've seen Mykonos in general.
It's always been jet set since I was a child. Because in the 60s it was just a little fisherman's island. Very poor.
But then jet setters started coming. And then it evolved more. There’s no question that Mykonos relies on tourism. But the small island has overextended itself.
During the high season it’s full to bursting, and prices are sky high. We can only hope that the most expensive island in Greece doesn’t squander its special magic. The magic that’s a part of ALL the Greek islands. Generated by a strong sense of community, magnificent bays and beaches, and the people who live here with all their ideas and passions.
2024-06-22 02:19
