ROBERT MAKŁOWICZ POLSKA odc. 62 „W Jurze".
Dear Ladies and Gentlemen, I am in Jura Krakowsko-Częstochowska, in this part of it, which belongs to the Silesian Voivodeship. If I was a modern YouTuber, I could record everything I do with just such a webcam. DJI Osmo Pocket, but as I am an old-time youtuber, we go here with both Andrzej and Maria and they record video and sound, and most of all help me eat and drink everything they give us here. The partner of today's episode is the X-kom store, which offers such cameras as well as the Silesian Tourist Organization. In 1948, professor Kazimierz Sosnowski mapped out a tourist and sightseeing route leading from Krakow to Częstochowa, or from Częstochowa to Krakow, if you prefer. Trail through the Jurassic.
However, visitors were to admire not only the natural wonders of this region, but also, and perhaps above all, the local medieval fortresses, of which there are ... at least a dozen have survived to our times. Why were they built in the Middle Ages? Because it was the border between Małopolska and Silesia and the professor suggested that such fortified places be called the Eagles' Nests.
And finally, the Trail of the Eagles' Nests was created from it. One of the greatest historical tourist attractions in our country. I am standing at the foot of the castle in Olsztyn. If you enter it in GPS navigation, be careful, because there is also a castle in Olsztyn, the capital of Warmia, and it is still a long way from here. I now propose to focus for a moment on the Olsztyn castle itself. This Olsztyn castle.
Well, the first references to him come from the thirteenth century. And so it stood for centuries. Performing functions, as I have already said, rather defensive than representative. Until Armageddon came in the form of the Swedish Deluge, and like many things in the Commonwealth of that time - destruction, ruin and ruins as such.
This is a great place. Well, not only because of these castle ruins. It is also a great place for its Jurassic nature. And the filmmakers also saw it.
Lots of plans. "Countess Cosel", but probably the most important thing that works here, at least from an artistic point of view, is "The Saragossa Manuscript", because we have a romantic, medieval castle and surroundings that look exactly like the northern parts of Spain. And here, perhaps also on this stone, stood the knight of Van Worden caballero - Zbyszek Cybulski. Ladies and Gentlemen, Dr. Rafał Lach. Geologist, guide in Jura.
Doctor, what is Jura really? I know that Jura is, for example, on the Franco-Swiss border. Is Jura Krakowsko-Częstochowska the same from the geological point of view? You can assume that the same. The truth is that rocks found in Europe, or all over the world, of a given age are found in different places and that is how it really needs to be approached. We are really at the bottom of the sea.
You may not see it, but the truth is that it is a seabed. Only that 165 million years ago there was a sea here, and these limestones are a testimony of those quite deep seas from that time. These rocks, because they are limestone, are attractive not only when viewed from the outside, but also because they are limestone, there are many forms into which you can immerse yourself, and this is another Jurassic specialty. Exactly. These are caves, of course. There is a lot of it.
There are not too many caves available in relation to the number that occurs in the entire area of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. However, these are places very often visited by tourists, places like the Głęboka Cave. A tourist place with an illuminated route, prepared for tourism, but there are also places, let's call it wild, where everyone can theoretically go, they shouldn't, but it's the same as climbing. If anyone has an idea about it.
Here you are. Well, yes, and not every hole in the rock can have a guard. Exactly. So now you know what these helmets are for. We're going down into the ground right now.
What should we primarily remember when visiting caves? First of all, about safety. We have helmets. We have some lighting. We can do it. This is just a cave that has been made available, so we do not need any ropes, but above all remember that this is a place created by nature. Respect what nature has created.
Not to destroy. Not litter. Do not really take anything that is present in the cave.
I mean, people break stalactites, stalagmites? Unfortunately, there is a problem with that all the time. I know it shines, I know it is pretty, but let's leave it for the next generations. Nothing more nothing less. It's me the second. Welcome.
This time I am the second. How deep is the Deep Cave? 19 meters. Every group that comes here descends to such a depth , How long? 190 meters of the total route because we go down those 19 meters to the last point and return to the entrance. The entrance is the exit from the cave. When you were shining on the walls, I saw such colleagues attached. Bats, but they are probably the first friends to hang here, because they inhabit caves throughout the winter.
Exactly. This period of bat hibernation generally begins in October / November. Most of the caves, however, are closed during this hibernation period , so tourist traffic is stopped here, although due to colder days or nights, individual bats appeared.
Dripstone formations, amazingly beautiful, but they could have been even more beautiful if not for human thoughtlessness. Because this is simply evidence of devastation. This is evidence of devastation.
Torn fragments of infiltrative structures that were actually created for thousands of years. Well, how many well, let's say, it had to be here? Let me put it this way, the increment here where quite a lot of water is dripping is 1 millimeter per hundred years, but this is quite a rate of approx. But 1 mm per thousand years is so averaged. It is thousands of years before these dripstone structures are formed. The Deep Cave itself is 140,000 years old.
It is quite a young cave, with a young stalactite structure and people still don't understand it. It is probably nibbled and torn off somewhere all the time. We have 100% air humidity here . Exactly.
Constant temperature, about seven degrees. Exactly. Therefore, too many people cannot enter here at once, because we emit heat, we shine . This bothers not only the bats, but everything else here in general. That's right.
We are actually disturbing the microclimate for a while. The microclimate is stabilized, while our presence has a negative impact on such an environment. Therefore, we have a limited number of people and the number of day entrances, and of course it is ... everything takes place in the season excluding this season for bats, i.e. the winter season. So you remember. When you are in the cave, you must not break anything first.
Second, try not to emit heat. The GOPR abbreviation stands for the Mountain Volunteer Rescue Service. And there is the Jurassic Mountain Rescue Service. Of course. But in theory, maybe someone sees some contradiction, because we are not in the mountains. We are in the highlands.
Mr. Mateusz, Mr. Tomasz. GOPR members from the Jury. Gentlemen, why are GOPR here? If not the mountains.
Well, we are the youngest GOPR group and indeed the only one that is not in the mountains, but this is because in the highlands, due to the fact that we have a lot of rocks, a lot of caves, this qualified tourism is so specialized that an ambulance cannot get everywhere . And then we, thanks to off-road vehicles, quads, and thanks to the fact that we train rescuers all the time, are able to reach places and quickly evacuate people who need help to ambulances . So those delinquents who either climb or enter the caves, or ride bikes here, or seem to be falling from the sky recently. Yes, the main sport that is practiced here in our area is rock climbing. Just as we see behind our backs here.
Another field is speleology. And now, power hang gliders are very popular. This also sometimes generates accidents, because someone will fall, hang on a tree and we have to take him off, So you are watching all the time? 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. So all those who come here, except of course not to go crazy, not to enter unmarked caves, to climb responsibly, then if they knock something , it will happen to you? All year. All the time. So be active tourists in the Jura.
And remember that, gentlemen, there is equipment, there is everything, there is enthusiasm, there is strength. Thank you very much. Thank you. I am, my friends, in Złoty Potok. In a place where a fortified manor stood for centuries. In 1851, general Wincenty Krasiński acquired the property.
The poet's father. Zygmunt. With the idea of bringing Zygmunt here. However, the poet spent only one summer here. He left after the death of his daughter.
This is the condition from the beginning of the 20th century. The state given to the property by the Raczyński family, because another Krasiński's daughter married Raczyński, and until 1945, i.e. until the decree which nationalized such goods, it was in the hands of the Raczyński family. It is a very nice thing, but it is related to something that, in my humble opinion, is a bit more important from the culinary and cultural point of view. We're headed there right now. Every estate had to somehow survive, so either the land belonging to that estate was cultivated, or, as in this case, for example, fish ponds were built to raise fish.
Well, you say , fish farming and fish ponds in our part of the world, this is a completely ordinary thing, known from the early Middle Ages, because we already have fish ponds in the early Middle Ages , most often in monasteries. Yes, but in these ponds, carp were the most commonly bred. But here it is about something completely different. In 1881 , it was here, to Złoty Potok, that first arrived from the States, and then an unusual shipment. Well, trout roe came here in boxes that were covered with moist moss and ice. Trout farming was unknown in Europe.
It was launched in the States. And these trouts were put into these ponds. So where are we? We are in the oldest European trout farm. Remember that right here. Złoty Potok.
The beginning of the breeding trout. Of course, there were trouts in Europe, but they were wild, river, stream, mountain, but not farmed. The very beginning of this breeding - here. Count Edward Raczyński thought everything through very carefully.
First, he brought engineer Michał Girdwoyn from Lithuania. A very Lithuanian surname. An engineer built ponds here, and then spawns came from the States. This building was also erected, it was a hatchery, because in addition to selling trout for food, trout roe was also sold here . So, if you have rainbow trout anywhere in Europe today, his great great-great- grandfathers come from this building.
There is a fry shop at the ponds. And here these fish are not bought in wholesalers. They're just ten meters away, and they're not just trout. Although they are of course the most important.
Look, rainbow trout in front of me, but carp also swim here, and sturgeons also swim here. For this, either fries, or bread, or homemade salads. And the freshest and easiest prepared fish.
After all, that's what it's all about in such places. Take a look inside the trout. The interior of trout can be very rich and look at the consistency of the meat.
It's damp. It is not dried out. It is not overcooked. It's just perfect. Carp. I'll say it again ...
34 please order. Yes, that's how it goes because there are a lot of people. It is fried there and immediately released. Delicate dough. This is not breadcrumbs. It is a kind of pancake batter and carp.
Again, we only eat it on Christmas Eve, and we should all year round. And it is here all year round. Perfect.
And my friend sturgeon. And this is not a closed circuit of these waters. Here we have flow-through water, so the cleanest possible. Excellent. For centuries, Jews were an extremely important community in Jurassic towns. In Żarki, where I am now in the 19th century, they constituted over 60 percent of the inhabitants.
This is the Jewish cemetery in Żary . Latest. The two older ones have not survived to our times. He is one and a half hectares.
When you go through these towns, you can clearly see that they often have a shtetl arrangement. An extremely important tzaddik , still venerated until today , lived in nearby Lelów . So let us not forget the erstwhile daughters and sons of this land.
Since we're in Żarki, we have to take a look at the local stone historic barns. They were once wooden, but burned down. Well, but why barns, built in one place , some distance from the city? I was talking about the old layout of the local towns. I was talking about shtetls, so a lot of small, clustered and compressed buildings. And there is a barn with, for example, hay.
It is on fire and the whole city is on fire, so it is put outside, as it were . And so they burned down. They were rebuilt in this way before the war . Construction, which is very characteristic of the Jura, because Jurassic stone - limestone.
The famous fairs take place here twice a week, but they are not strictly food fairs. There, you or you praise clothes and agricultural tools through a megaphone . You know, riberi, push-ups, bicycles and rat ointment. There is a lot of stuff there.
One is of interest to me and I hope to buy it there, but I have to do it in no time , so I'm going and we'll see you in a moment. Another wonder on the Trail of the Eagles' Nests. Lock. Exactly. Where? The castle in Ogrodzieniec is commonly said and mistaken . We are not in Ogrodzieniec.
We are in Podzamcze. This is the commune of Ogrodzieniec, but it has become commonplace and it is difficult to argue with it. Ogrodzieniec Castle - this name is appropriate. However, the Castle in Ogrodzieniec is bad. What not to say, it is a real miracle.
I have not said this before and it should be clarified, because in fact we are almost in the heart of the Republic of Poland. I said that these strongholds were defensive, so why defensive strongholds where there is no border? She's not here now, but she used to be. Remember also what the Silesian Voivodeship is.
The Silesian Voivodeship is not only Silesia. We are here in western Lesser Poland, and Silesia in the times of, for example, Casimir the Great, was not part of the Crown. So it was borderline.
At that time, Silesia belonged to the Czech kings, to the Crown of Saint Wenceslas. Thus, castles were built here on the border, and fortunately some of them survived, et voila. This is not the first fortification in the vicinity. Previously, a fortified castle stood on this mountain.
Birów Mountain. He was burnt down during the wars with the Czechs under Łokietek. And his son, Casimir the Great, decided to build just this. Take a look at this characteristic element, not only of the local landscape, but also of the architectural thought of that time. A defensive gate, but it is integrated between the rocks. In general, the entire stronghold has an irregular shape.
Due to the fact that a person adapted to what he found. Thanks to this, less building material. Thanks to this, natural, defensive elements. Throughout the Middle Ages, the stronghold remained unconquered. During the Renaissance, this reality was acquired by a great rich man from Krakow.
Seweryn Boner. For example, Kamienica Bonerowska in the market square. And he changed it not so much in a defensive style as in a residential, renaissance style. Then ...
A moment later there was the Swedish Deluge. The Swedes took the castle. They ruined it a bit. Just a little.
They looted, of course, but he was. The last owners moved out of here. At the beginning of the 19th century. The thing was in danger of collapsing, and the castle was standing. What happened then? Well, what happens very often in such situations .
We just have an empty building materials warehouse, because people from the area were taking each other piece by piece. They took a stone to build their homes. If we look at the old buildings around today , in many of them, both in houses and barns, we will find stones from this castle. Ogrodzieniec Castle, not Ogrodzieniec Castle. I'm not a big fan of squeezing through rock crevices, unless the crevices are wide enough and lead to some interesting place, and that's what it is in this case. The highest elevation of the Jura is, depending on the springs, 515 and a half or 516 meters.
However, I am now at the level of 511 meters and that's what "Level 511" is the name of a great Jurassic hotel, which has been talked about many times, and now I am here. So there is a chance to see what's screeching in the rock. The idea of the smallest architectural interference with nature is impressive . Look at the shape of this building.
This is a tent. Like a nomad's tent. We put up our tents, our buildings like nomads. They then disappear.
We are moving elsewhere. We are just pollen in all that nature has created. We disappear. Nature continues.
The local cuisine is led by chefs Paweł Jaworski and Krzysztof Haras. The kitchen, because of course you sleep in a hotel. That's what hotels are made for, but in a hotel, if it's good, they are also. Well, almost every hotel has a restaurant. Very often, we do not want to use them, but it happens that we come to a place, first of all, to eat there.
And this is the case here. I will show you a sample of local food in a moment, and it will be almost a lecture. I'll be like a professor. Not the boring I hope that will now take you through all kinds of layers of greatness. What is the kitchen like.
Well, first of all, it is original. First of all, it is modern, but it is, most importantly, what we have been fighting for for so many years . Here. I'll take some thyme off. There is also parsley here. To make you feel almost like in France, they are snails, but snails from local breeding. I really like snails, but snails should not be made of rubber.
These aren't. Here, what time of year? Autumn. We have forests.
We have the highlands, so we also have mushrooms. These are rigs. Not served from a pan, as in Podhale, but in a cream sauce.
Not stalled. Firm. Just wonderful. Well, I can't try and comment everything, because you would have to sit here for several minutes with me, so you already know that there are freshwater fish here, so we have fish soup from them. And we also have sturgeon served like this, i.e. on risotto with orange sauce.
He is slightly fried. Since there are forests, there is also venison, so here is a saddle of deer. Beets. Here is a duck.
Duck that has been pickled. Duck breast. Then dried. This is a thing I have eaten here once and it always amazes me. And if we are to refer to the local focal tradition, please.
There are bonfire potatoes, but not lonely ones. This is obviously a beef steak in a sauce we have something that does not grow here, but which is often used in steaks around the world , which is pickled green pepper. And instead of desserts, cheeses. Cheeses from local hosts.
With sauces based on local honey. I wanted one wine. Universal to go with anything and at first I ordered a bottle of Grüner from Austria like it was but then noticed the card. A special wine card insert.
Jurassic wines. Of course, we have a strong French jury here. There is no Swiss jury.
The Swiss drink everything they produce themselves, but there is also Jura Polska. And also the wine made by 511. In the place where we will go today. We had Jurassic wine in glasses and bottles and now we have Jurassic wine outdoors. Just vineyards. I'm roughly 200-300 meters below 511.
Half an hectare of crops. There are 4 hectares in the nearby Piecki. Hybrids here are mostly Solaris and Johanniter. There is also Vitis vinifera, i.e. Pinot
Noir and Chardonnay. Take a look at the terroir. Look at the ground. Limestone. Also such small, limestone pebbles. Not only big rock inselbergs.
It is in the soil too. So what does it cause? Well, this stone captures warmth. This accumulates heat, and gives back heat in cooler moments. So yes.
Yes Yes. Jurassic wine is a fact not only in Jura in France and Switzerland. Rock climbing, which is undoubtedly the queen of sports in the Jura or in Jura if you prefer. It is here that the true stars of our mountaineering began their mountaineering career . For example, Wanda Rutkiewicz or Jerzy Kukuczka.
I also planned such a career once, but I changed my mind. Down. He's downstairs.
The times when I put direttas without belaying are over. Please block. There is a block. Having detached from the rock and got rid of the harness, I must now explain one thing to you. A culinary thing. Roasts, stews or roasts.
It is a term for the same dish. Queen of Jurassic dishes. Well, once, quite a long time ago, a cast iron foundry was opened in Poręba, near Zawiercie. One of the products of this iron foundry were such cast iron cauldrons. And the locals used these cauldrons very cleverly to compose a dish, which here is really ubiquitous in many versions. The simplest ingredients.
I will show you a roast, or a roast, or a meat version, but there are also vegetarian and even vegan versions. Well, I take the lard, but it could be butter. Then it will be vegetarian, and maybe there may be oil, then it will be vegan. And now you need to grease the cauldron with grease.
This fat cannot be too much. This cauldron will be almost hermetically sealed, so it will all use only its own juices. And it will float in what is in these things, so if you have too much fat, it will float in fat.
So first this. Now, bacon or lard used to be, and all this is arranged in layers here. Of course, potatoes are a must. Beets are not available in every version. Beets color, so you have to put the beets on top of the potatoes.
There is or is no carrot. The sausage is always available in meat. Onions come in all versions. There may also be mushrooms, for example, oyster mushrooms and cabbage. Cabbage leaves that cover it all. Of course, you need to treat it generously with salt and pepper.
no other spices. Although some add thyme, this is a more modern version. The traditional one does not contain it.
There are no herbs. We arrange and then put it in the fire. Apparently, some people experiment with tomatoes, but those who know about mushrooms say it is a hopeless experiment. Tomatoes give off a lot of juice, and this is not supposed to be soup, it is supposed to be simply casserole, so that's what I showed. Of course, you can make variations, but tomatoes and all those vegetables that give off juice are rather out of the question.
Of course, the number of layers depends on how big the pot is and how thick these layers will be. It's important to do two more things before putting the cabbage here . Namely, finish the whole thing with potatoes, so treat it with salt and pepper, and put a little fat on the top . In this case, the same that is used to lubricate the cauldron, i.e. lard. Since we can't wave that around in here, it can't get mixed up.
It will be hot on these feet. So only it will circulate inside. These juices will float, move on their own, as it were. So some fat has to run off the top. Well, let's spread it out like this and already cabbage and cover it. It is with a slight hill.
Remember that this will crash, because the volume of vegetables and other added matter will decrease . These cabbage leaves are to protrude a little above the surface of the cauldron because it will all be pressed in this way anyway . There is a delicate opening here. So it won't explode. We're closing.
We turn it and put it on. We wait about 40 minutes. As you can see, the cauldron is now exposed. The masters of making roasts or roasts do this too.
They are just taking off the lid so that any excess liquid evaporates. See how it came down. What was on the top will be the so-called crib on the plate , that is, everything is put on a cabbage leaf. There is no liquid and everything has passed its own taste.
With their own flavors, because there are plenty of these flavors here. I like this cabbage leaf very much because it is seared. Jesus, how hot it is in here. Cast iron catches the temperature and then gives it back.
That's why cast iron pots are so cool. And in these parts, and as you already know it is a delicacy from these parts, you should also drink buttermilk. If potatoes are not enough for someone, it is this delicacy I went to the fair in Żarki. See, this is tartarczuch, or bread made of buckwheat flour.
Very moist bread, with a crispy crust and kept fresh for at least a week. Just dark buckwheat. Well, in fact, we almost have a tutto completto. See what a nice beetroot. No, it's a carrot colored from beetroot. Beetroot is here.
I say so many times that the simplest things are often the most beautiful. This is the case here. Extra. Bread.
Good.
2021-10-23 22:28
