Nissan Patrol Nomad Valve Body Install
how you going guys Daniel from Wholesale Automatics today we're going to fit a valve body in the RE4 transmission found in the Nissan Patrol 4 speeds let's get into it just a reminder it's good to road test the vehicle before we put it on the hoist check it's all clear of codes and also the road test will get the oil warm now we're going to drain the transmission, warm oil will always drain a lot easier i'm going to start removing the bolts from the back of the transmission pan this way it will hang the back of the transmission pan and we can drain more of the oil out of the pan now these four speed transmissions have got a couple of brackets that hold the cooler pipes at the front i've just got one last bolt at the front front side slowly loosen this one off drain more out of the pan take the last bolt out can hang up a little bit on the front pipe but a bit of tilting it will come down next step we'll remove the transmission filter it's held in by three bolts and we'll set these bolts aside, from the rest of the bolts that hold the valve body in make sure the oil filter o-ring has come out of the valve body next part we'll remove the wiring the little clips are very brittle sometimes they break very easily this this transmission must have been built in the past before because the clips are already broken let's pull the wires out of these little retainers i'm going to remove this clip that holds up the solenoid wiring here this solenoid controls the lock up torque converter once again the clip has already broken off and the last temperature sensor you're gonna push up on a little part of the clip so it can slide to the passenger side and then it will fall out the part of the clip that i was pushing up was just right here and that part that part there tucks in that slot there now that we have all the wiring disconnected we can just fold that out of the way we can start removing the bolts that hold the valve body to the transmission when removing all the bolts from the valve body I set out the bolts on a tray to make sure that the it's a lot easier to work out where the bolts go later on in our instructions we do state where the bolts go there is two different size lengths you can refer back to those instructions though i'm just removing all the bolts that hold the valve body to the transmission most of the bolts are around the perimeter of the valve body and some hole also pipe retaining clamps as well right like this one here there's two bolts here with another pipe retainer one right here now i've left two bolts in one here and one here sort of on each side of the valve body now as you can see it is loose oil is draining and we can remove these last two now on top of this valve body there is springs that are for the accumulator and they will most likely fall that's the three springs there alright this is the valve body that we removed and this is the one that we'll be fitting these valve bodies for the the RE4's they come complete there's nothing that you have to transfer over there can be slight differences it just depends on the age of the valve body itself some have bendable wiring retainers and then some have got clips these clips can break but the main part of the valve body they're all the same all the solenoids on the new ones these four solenoids are all brand new we replace them on all of our RE4 transmissions because they are known to cause faults now let's fit the reconditioned valve body now before we fit the valve body i want to explain these accumulator springs now the blue spring is what we supply in the kit it's a little bit firmer than the original that one will sit on the front, the large one will be in that position and the medium one is in that position now in the transmission itself you can't mix them up if you start with the largest one first now the holes the over the accumulator starts off obviously large and that one can't fit into the accumulator on the other accumulators so large ones in them in that position medium ones in the back and the skinny one that we supply in the kit which is the blue one goes in the front now if you've got any vaseline handy the vaseline is fine for transmissions it will just melt into into the oil i glue the springs onto the valve body just like so it helps due to we only have two hands when we're lifting the valve body up we also have to align the manual manual valve which is controlled by the t-bar lever there's a slot and that has to line up with a pin up here get a couple of bolts ready so you know where they're going we'll just get those two bolts up top to finger tight then we can start the rest of the bolts all right now that we've got all the bolts started I run around just get them touching and then we can torque them up all right we're going to torque all the bolts up to 8 newton meters that's roughly 70 inch pounds all right now that those bolts are torqued up we'll bring the wiring back in there is one bolt that i've left out that actually holds the one of the heat temperature sensors just fold these metal tabs around it and with this temp sensor and feed it under the in between there first just a touch and then this side of the switch has to be slid into the bracket there there's clips in there that's the last bolt that i was talking about goes into here it's touching and then once again torque it up next part we'll clip in the lock up solenoid and refit the metal clip retainer just like so the last two plugs you've got it these plugs are color coded there's an orangey brown and a gray and the plugs on the valve body are the same colors now if your clips are broken i've never actually seen them fall out if you like you can cable tie them up what you could do you can just loop it through the bracket that they clip onto now you can get new new internal looms that we actually have in stock if you do prefer to have new clips just make sure your wiring is all nice and neat tucking out of the way all right we've got our new oil filter we've got to put a little bit of vaseline or transmission oil on the o-ring itself a little bit of um upward push and all just the o-ring will sit into the valve body and we get the four long bolts that we set aside for the filter get the bolts touching and then we'll torque them up and we'll torque these filter bolts up to 8 newton meters or 70 inch pounds all right next we'll just wipe down the surface for the transmission pan depending on what gasket you had sometimes the gasket can be stuck on the transmission a little bit of scraping with a small razor blade might be needed the gasket that we supply in the valve body kit is um the surfaces need to be dry and no oil at all if you do get the gasket soaked in oil the gasket will just split so just be mindful of that one next part we have to have cleaned the transmission pan you can use that with degreaser and then air dry it we'll also clean down the magnet as well set the new gasket on it now this gasket can be a bit tedious since it's so thin get a bolt ready tuck the front of the pan on top of the cooler pipe then with one hand holding the pan up start fitting some bolts as you're putting the bolts in make sure that the gasket is still in its place it can get folded in just start all the bolts one at a time as we go around now the front two front two um side bolts hold the retaining brackets for the cooler pipe i've just noticed that the gasket at the back of the pan is a little bit out of a line i've just loosened the bolts off a tiny bit just so i can get the bolt through the gasket now that they're all in i'll go around and just get the bolts touching the pan and then we can torque them to spec now we're going to torque the pan bolts up to 7 newton meters one more final loop make sure you've tightened them all also with these gaskets after they're being tightened once they the gasket squishes a bit and they need to be just nipped up tiny little more to get back to tension next part we're going to refit the drain plug the washers are generally good to reuse if you like you can change them fit the sump plug and we're just going to torque it to 25 newton meters just like so and don't forget to refit the cooler pipe retainers all right next step is we'll drop the vehicle back on the ground and fill the transmission through the dipstick run it through the gears and then recheck the oil level a couple of times then we'll road test it once after the road test we'll recheck the oil level again all right now that we've dropped the vehicle down on the ground we'll fill it up they generally take 7 to 8 liters so make sure you have at least 10 liters handy and we'll get going now filled it up with probably around four and a half liters right now i'll start it and then we'll run it run it for the next part and then continue to fill it now these um dipsticks are very difficult to read i usually have to do it at three or four times just to make sure that you've got the oil in the right spot now the oil has to be in between those two grooves oil will most likely sit on the sides above those grooves because it's touching the side of the tube as you're pulling it in and out of the transmission so what you're looking for is oil in that groove section one side is hot as well now that we've got sufficient amount of oil we'll road test it and recheck it after the road test all right now that we've road tested the vehicle the oil has gone down a tiny little bit so we can add another probably half a liter and then it should be done now it's up to the hot mark and there you have it that's how you fit the valve body for the RE4 transmission thanks for watching
2022-03-18 22:21
