Ho Chi Minh City-Ready For The World
2021 and 22 have been some of the most challenging years in recent times in Ho Chi Minh City with a pandemic that just when you think might be on its last breath comes back with even more intensity and further setbacks. It's been nine months since I was last here. I've come back to explore. To see what's been shuttered and what's survived and still thriving. One thing that's clear. Despite the toll the pandemic has raged on this city the dynamic atmosphere and the driving pulsating force that seduces most everyone who visits has not been lost. I want to see the new, the old, and every district that's left its mark on me with cherished memories that will live on as long as I'm around.
From the streets that are literally giant wholesale markets with their bustling alleys to everything from fashionable neighborhoods, cafes to anything else this city can throw in front of me, I'm ready. From the never-ending expansion of city limits and space in the sky to the new buildings, the historic landmarks, and the troubled tourist spots. What can I say? I've learned a lot here and I'm ready for more. I'm John Saboe and these are my Far East Travels.
It's the Christmas New Year's holiday season and I'm back in the city I've spent the most time in than anywhere else in Vietnam. Finding myself drawn to one of my favorite areas of the city, District five and one of the most interesting alleys in Southeast Asia, Tong Duy Tan, otherwise known as Haberdashery Alley. Filled with just about everything you need to sew up a suit, dress or costume plus almost anything else you can think of. It's cluttered, claustrophobic, maybe even a little dangerous, and I love it. Just like I love and find myself always drawn to the giant Binh Tay Market just over in district 6. Almost any time
of the day you'll find buyers here stacking up their motorbikes with almost everything from clothing to bottled sauces, nuts, dried shrimp for their shop or restaurant. They're not the least bit fazed by a menacing foreigner peeking in on life here. Curious and sometimes clumsy. To this day I'm still surprised even in a big city, how people here can be so welcoming and friendly. It's amazing how your mood can be impacted by just a few people smiling and saying hello, every few minutes you spend walking around here. One of the many reasons why foreigners I feel end up staying longer than planned. It seems like it's all business as usual with not
much in the way of QR codes, but some tape here and there reminding us of the times we live in. Oddly though the mood doesn't seem that much different than the first time I visited almost six years ago. There's no doubt in my mind that I'm attracted to these places because it's the Asia I always dreamed of traveling and exploring. Busy, raw, hectic, messy, and exotic of course. Having lived here for so long some of the mystery for me has vanished I'll admit but the energy, the dynamic interaction between people is as intoxicating as ever. The produce markets are another thing and the next level in serious food exploration where you can find stalls that among other things have six different prices for what appears to be six different kinds of dragon fruit.
While these parts of the city that are mostly frequented by locals carry on as usual it's not been the same for the streets and neighborhoods that were driven by tourists pre-pandemic. Outside of the mostly local neighborhoods the effects of the last lockdown and two years of border closures have clearly had an impact on spots mostly frequented by foreigners. Areas that were once thriving and bustling from morning until almost dawn the next day have seen a scourge across much of the tourist centers around Southeast Asia. Bui Vien Street is no different. The famous tourist backpacker center of Ho Chi Minh City is now mostly a place where locals are entertained these days along with a few of the remaining expats in the city. Some of its most iconic bars and clubs have vanished replaced by rental space, or simply empty buildings boarded up with no sign of reopening. Ben Thanh Market, another once thriving tourist market
and area for businesses and entrepreneurs catering to foreign visitors is merely an iconic landmark now just waiting for someone to ask it out on the dance floor. Mostly shuttered with the exception of a few businesses that may hope to survive through the storm until either tourists return or the Saigon Metro opens bringing thousands of daily commuters through its anchor station. Even the world's number one franchise business has been affected by the pandemic. The once busy MacDonald's location next to the Saigon Central Post Office and across the street from the Notre Dam Cathedral is now an empty shell. It's evident now in order to survive in a nation
of banh mi, not Big Mac lovers, the hundreds of tourists who visited the attractions here daily looking for something familiar were it's sole source of survival. Change is inevitable and while some things are left behind the French Colonial square here is getting a slight makeover before it's once again showtime and there's a new bike share program with 400 bikes stationed around District one that makes it convenient for short if not hair-raising journeys in the traffic. in 2019 this is the spot I hosted several episodes of my podcast from. In a city of 13 million residents and 8 million motorbikes even as it recovers from a strict lockdown and new rules it's not hard to find people lighting up their evening with some seasonal selfies and street life. Local nightlife can be found in many districts like Nguyen Trai Street in District 5.
With its countless shops selling clothing and footwear from China, Vietnam, and Japan even if you're not in the mood for shopping you can check out the action, make small talk with locals, and enjoy people watching and lots of local street food. And although this Gucci set looks pretty tempting I think I'll hold off for now storing it in my memory maybe should I require an attention seeking outfit in the future. I hope the tourist spots make a comeback and businesses that choose to focus on foreigners thrive in the future. I myself am pretty content hanging out in places like this.
You'll notice there's no international chains anywhere in sight if you're looking to get away from the global brands seen everywhere in Asia. The reminder of an ongoing pandemic is still everywhere from roped or taped off businesses, for lease signs, shuttered buildings, and steady crowds and traffic outside hospitals for everything from testing to acute care. There's a steady stream of followers visiting the pagodas across the city on the last day of the year. I'm at the Quan Am or Goddess of Compassion Pagoda in District 5. I can't help but think many people are happy to close the book on 2021 whether it's the Gregorian or Lunar calendar. This pagoda is dedicated to the Goddess of Compassion, Quan Am, in Chinese Guanyin. Established in the 19th century this is a Chinese-style temple located in District 5.
There's an altar dedicated to the Jade Emperor, the Heavenly Lord in Vietnamese folk religion, in Taoism or Chinese folk religion the ruler of all heavens. Mazu, the Goddess Of The Sea is also found here with Guanyin or Quan Am located here in the outer courtyard. I always find peace when I visit these places of worship. What people are praying for is a mystery though but most likely for ancestors, prosperity, health, and peace and yes quite possibly an end to this tragedy we've all suffered in our own way with the story that will live with us the rest of our lives. S new year brings hope and possibilities and plenty of ways to celebrate Tet or the Lunar New Year which is only a few short weeks away. I'm surrounded by Tet colors in one of the many shops in District 5.
There's a similar number of followers visiting the Vinh Nghiem Pagoda in District 3. This was the first traditional Vietnamese style Buddhist Pagoda in Vietnam to be constructed from concrete. Construction began in 1964, completion in 1971. Many foreigners who were living in Vietnam full-time or who were initially stranded while visiting and decided to stay have had to leave the country due to changes in visa policies, or just because they couldn't wait any longer to visit home. I'm heading to one of the most popular places for expats to live in Ho Chi Minh City, Thao Dien, to see what the vibe is like there now.
Thao Dien is one of the most comfortable places for Western expats to live in Ho Chi Minh City with many sort of familiar, to very familiar names or brands. Markets and restaurants selling familiar foods and most places now having something we've all gotten used to, the QR code. It seems a little quieter than it was a few months ago with lots of rental apartments available. This really is a unique area of the city with mostly low-rise buildings and a less hectic atmosphere. Many people who visit often remark that it feels completely unlike the rest of the city. Lots of places to stop for a coffee or something to eat. I'm taking advantage of the abundant places featuring Western food and stopping down for an order of onion rings before i'm on my way. And by the way they're very very good.
In my humble opinion, Ho Chi Minh City has some of the best food on offer and value for money anywhere in the world. I'm heading to one of my favorite places to satiate my chocolate addiction, Maison Marou, in the Nguyen Thai Binh Ward of District 1. This is a full-on theater experience from watching the processing of cocoa beans to the creation of chocolate and chocolate-based desserts. I'm enjoying one of my favorites here, a brownie that happens to be vegan.
It's beyond words. Located within just a few steps of Ben Thanh Market this ward has slowly been transformed over the years to cater to travelers but with enough local appeal to not have been as seriously affected by the lockdowns and border closures as other areas. With new hotels under construction and the Ben Thanh subway hub it's possible Nguyen Thai Binh will not be recognizable in a few years. This city is rapidly shifting to a more contemporary modern-looking center of business. Perhaps little neighborhoods with charming cafes and outdoor markets will be a thing of the past as vietnam expands its global presence as a manufacturer and exporter of everything from shoes to tech products and even guitar amps. The energy of the city will always be present. It's appearance will simply
transform into something different but undoubtedly in a Vietnamese way. I've always wanted to ride the Saigon Water Bus or taxi. An alternative form of transportation that doubles as a tourist attraction on the Saigon River. A great way to gain perspective and see the scale of development and growth throughout the expansion of the city. By the way they also
have fascinating group trips you can arrange, from visiting local farms to iconic pagodas and even a raft village. Starting from the Bach Dang Port in District 1 the full almost 11 kilometer route takes you all the way to Linh Dong Ward in Thu Duc District. Today I'm just taking the short loop from District 1 to the Thao Dien Wharf which is currently under repair. One of the most impressive sites along the way is the new Thu Thiem 2 Bridge linking District 1 with one of the largest new urban developments located on the Thu Thiem peninsula. Due to supply chain delays and covid restrictions
completion has been delayed but is expected to open in 2022. It's easy to get lost in admiring the skyscrapers and new infrastructure but one mustn't forget this river's fabled history from the French colonialists establishing it as the first trade port of the Far East to the staging point for Ho Chi Minh's departure in 1911 on the Amiral Letouche Treville the start of a journey that would eventually lead him back to Vietnam to liberate his country. Just over 80 years ago if you had a license you could still pull up to the dock across from the French Customs House and purchase opium in shiny tin boxes. Make your way up to Cho Lon, now district 5 and 6, and if you didn't get plundered by pirates sell your goods to the opium dens of the area. Today the Saigon River plays a vital role as a transportation hub for exports that contribute to two-thirds of Vietnam's economy.
This was a really enjoyable experience and a perfect way to end my visit to Ho Chi Minh City. Despite a pandemic that may be with us for some time Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon and the rest of Vietnam are moving forward with the reopening of the country to tourism. it may be a while before the old tourist haunts make a comeback but clearly this is a place that has overcome yet another chapter of adversity in it's history and has decided to move on. Evidence of it's determination can be found everywhere I visited and soon its energy and vitality will once again be on display for people from around the world to admire and enjoy.
I'm sitting here for about 10 minutes right now. I'm right next to a convenience store. I keep hearing this doorbell every time somebody comes and goes and it's just clueing into me now that i can get some beer to go with these wonderful things i'm gonna have and enjoy. I hope as much as you enjoyed the video so if you did thumbs up please. There's tons more videos from Vietnam here, East Asia, Southeast Asia and South Asia so do subscribe to the channel. If you feel like supporting the channel of course that'd be totally cool. Two links in the video description below just check those out thanks in advance.
You know I think 2022 is going to be an awesome year. I had an awesome time in Ho Chi Minh City here the last couple of weeks. I hope you do too or wherever you're going and wherever you travel I wish you safe travels, Namaste, Tashi Delek, and peace from Vietnam.
2022-03-10 10:44
