Geheimtipp Montenegro: Atemberaubender Urlaub zwischen Adria und Bergen | WDR Reisen
Subtitle: WDR mediagroup GmbH on behalf of the WDR Actually, this country has everything to offer. Nevertheless, it is still something of an insider tip. Welcome to Montenegro. The small country on the Adriatic Sea is fascinating. The bays enchant with crystal clear water.
The cities with lots of history. The port city of Kotor is a world heritage site. And capital of cats. But that is by no means all. Montenegro's mountain landscape is breathtaking and a real insider tip.
Wow. On the way there adventures await. A record canyon.
And the largest lake in the Balkans. Nature makes a almost speechless. * Music * On the road in a still quite unknown country in the Balkans. Montenegro borders to Serbia and Albania. From Kotor along the coast off to the mountains to the Biogradska Gora National Park and into the Tara Gorge.
In the southern tip of the country finally awaits us an inhabited river at the Ada Bojana. The Bay of Kotor is home to the German emigrants Helga and Igi. Hi. - Hi, dobro dosli. Dobro dosli, what does that mean? Helga, hello, a warm welcome, that is. Hi, I'm Ramon. Shall we go now? - I'd love to.
That is already the first adventurer. (Sigi) Oh yes. Oh dear. (Helga laughs) Ramon, left side Release starboard. Then pull Direction starboard, left. What does solve mean? - Solving means solving.
I see, simple untie the knot? Please pull to starboard. And now? We're off. Do I have to draw? - Yes, pull. That fits. Slow down, wait, until the boat turns.
Now, lines into the water please. Quickly into the water. - Throw it in? Very quickly, so that we can do not drive over it with the motor. Are the lines in the water? (Helga) Yes, everything's fine. (Igi) Okay, we're casting off. - Thank you Igi.
That's how quickly you become a sailor. And already we are in the Bay of Kotor. What a view. Helga and Igi rent near flats and organise Hiking and boating tours. It's like paradise with you. Madness. - Yes.
A little bit. - We feel the same way. It is, isn't it? - Yes. It's madness, that look. You are actually at sea and you can see all the mountains like this.
What makes Montenegro special for you? There is this interplay with sea and mountains, that is unique, 1.5 h from Germany. On the other hand, it is still a country, where you can still explore, adventurous on the road. Proper home-grown tourism then still gets to see it somewhere. Not overcrowded, very nice, friendly people. It's just insane authentic, the whole thing.
How would you describe the people? Very cordial, extremely hospitable. You may not wear the charm right in your face. But as soon as you are with them comes into contact, you just notice, you are welcome. I am purely optical obviously a foreigner here.
But I have indeed I have not had any negative experiences. I am so open here and warmly received. It's just... I think the people here are great.
(Igi) Absolutely. Even as a woman you see that in some positions perhaps still different. But the men are very helpful, they are not intrusive. You can also come here as a woman travel very well alone. We have often used this as feedback from our guests.
They say it's so pleasant here. And Montenegro is a very family-friendly country. The family, the children are the be-all and end-all here. How long have you been there? We have been here together since 2014. Yes, and still never regretted a single day.
Can't go any more back to Germany? Not at first, no. * Music * (Igi) Ramon, now you're really lucky. There's a fisherman, and if we're lucky...
The boat in front? - Right, here, look. If we're lucky, we get fresh fish, he has just caught tonight for our guests. Hello.
Do you have fish for sale? We can buy fish here now? (Igi) Yes. Oh, great. Indeed. (Igi) Great, look. Freshly caught. (Igi) This is totally awesome. Bravo, we'll take him.
Very good, how was your day? (Fischer) Yesterday it was really bad, I spent the whole morning caught nothing. Today I have sea bream, Sea bass, sea bream, really good. (Igi) How much are they? - Nothing, I do it every day. Please let me pay. No, I do it every day. So enjoy Montenegro on the right kind, that's for you.
Thank you, thank you. - No worries. - Thank you Sir. Helga, you have just spoken of hospitality, and now we get the fish as a gift, madness. (Helga) That's right. - Thank you, take care. Welcome guys and enjoy. Goodbye. * Music * This is a highlight here in the bay. You have to see it, because the is actually an artificial island made by the people here.
This was a small rocky outcrop in the sea. They then put the whole thing filled up with stones, or piled up much more. That is how this island came into being. There is also a church in there. You can visit them, St. Mary on the stone. Now let's try it on.
Should I jump out? (Igi) Yes, one must jump out please. I'm jumping out too. Then you jump out from there. - Out into the water?
No, onto the pier, then I'll throw you the rope, and you wrap the rope around the Cleat there in front, around the iron part. Over the string, don't, that you're stuck with it. (Igi) Not yet. Don't jump yet, but go with the other leg. (laughs) Exciting.
(Helga) I think, you can jump right now. I'm jumping over it now. Watch out for the string, if you jump over. Yes. Will you announce the moment? - Yes, Igor. (Igi) Push off, with the feet.
(Helga) We're too far away, wait. How am I supposed to jump on it now? You're a badass. Now you have done it. Wow, Helga, you're so cool. Quick, quick, underneath.
You never have time for that. (Igi) Helga, quick, back there. Attention, there push off with the feet, that the boat doesn't hit it. Helga, put these on quickly. Just around, reaches to the back.
Ramon, we are allowed here not stay that long. Therefore only a short walk to the island, have a quick look. Then we have to leave again quickly. - Okay.
It just wants many visitors. * Music * By the way every year in July the traditional Rock throwing takes place. At this festival the locals throw symbolically stones into the sea to to expand the island even further. It's time for us, to be put down again. * Music * Igi, that can be lived here with you. You look very relaxed too, my dear.
I rarely felt better than now, really. Voilà, once. - Wow, madness. (Helga) Sweet, savoury.
This is Burek in mini form. And that is called mantije, that's just the little ones. Once with cheese, once with meat. That is with, one would say say, a little Berliner. And these are trinkets.
You have arrived in style in the country, right? Yes, you could say that. You know the customs and customs. - Yes, in the meantime. Does one come here with English? Come on, but a few words of Montenegrin is also quite nice for your trip. E.g. like zdravo for hello, molim for please, hvala for thank you. They are simply happy. Zdravo? - Zdravo.
Okay, I'll keep that in mind. - Zdravo is hello. I'm going to have another sweet. - Help yourself. Yes, please. What here in Montenegro also is very beautiful, there are many who, for example offer homemade products.
tourism, but where you can see, it is authentic. It is indeed as still done in the past. This dough, for example is pulled across tables. Such things can be here in Montenegro. We will later still make their own liqueur: But first we move on with the sailboat to the most famous city of the country. And where is Kotor now? Kotor is here at 12 o'clock.
A super class city, also has a very beautiful old town, UNESCO World Heritage Site. A place of excursions for very many Cruise ships that dock here. For many tourists also a Kind of starting point in Montenegro, right? Yes, I think so too. And of course not forgetting the castle. Simply sensational, because you look here across the whole bay. That's when you really get the feeling, how powerful the whole thing is with the mountain landscape.
I always say to our guests, who was not at the castle, was not in Kotor. As a little incentive, because it is It's exhausting to walk up. Then I would say, Let's go to Kotor. Thank you for the trip with both of you.
I'd love to, fine, that you started with us. * Music * Let's start at the harbour. During the high season Several cruise ships call daily and flush hundreds of tourists into the city. * Music * That looks badass, doesn't it? I thought the boat of Helga and Igi would be great. But is again a different calibre.
Kotor is a beautiful city, incredibly popular with tourists. Why is that? I'm going to look at that now. Mima lives here and does tourist tours.
Hello Mima. - Hello there. Greetings, can you show me Kotor today? Of course, very much so. Am I saying it right? You Germans say Kotor (Emphasis on 2nd syllable), but it is Kotor (Emphasis on 1st syllable).
That's where it goes in? - Exactly, this is the main gate. Does this have a history? - Yes, even a very big one. The main gate tells more or less very much about the city.
It is one of three goals. The city is in a great City wall inside. - Like a fortress. A fortress that goes around the city. It is 4.5 km long. This is the main gate or also called the sea gate. Why Meerestor? Because it faces the sea, but earlier this plateau did not exist.
The water went right up to the gate. If you wanted to go into town, you had to go there by boat, knock and see, if you can get in. Here? - Yes. - Hello?
Push, eh? We're coming in. Now, welcome to Kotor. The city has a long history.
For 200 years it belonged to the Serbian Empire. Then almost 400 years to the Venetians and 100 years to Austria. 1918 she became together with Montenegro to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia incorporated. After the Yugoslavian wars, the the country is seeking its independence, which was approved in a referendum in 2006 was decided.
Montenegro has 620,000 inhabitants. in the old town of Kotor just 500 people live there. * Music * Ramon, before our tour still the starter package for Montenegro.
The starter package for Montenegro? - Exactly. I can guess, what it... Oh, man, Mima. So early in the morning. - Yes, it has to be like that.
Must be. - You'll live longer there. What is it? - Dunja. Dunja? - Mmm. But only a little. Nah, not the face.
I don't make a face like that. The Square, why are they all standing here? This is the most important place, because this is the main square or even the armoury. All seats have been given the names after the things, sold here. We have a salad place, Wood Square, Weapons Square, Flour Square, Cat Square.
But cats we have not sold. Why the cats have such a important role in Kotor, we will experience it first hand. Something else very interesting, the stake of shame. Shame pole? - Exactly.
Until the time of the Austrian-Hungarian we had no prison. In a small town, everyone knows everyone. You would not go to prison, but would be in the main square be publicly paraded. Everyone would see you, tomatoes and eggs would fly.
After that you could family to move out of the city. You could no longer show his face. The shame was too great. - And that is worse than a prison.
We don't do that any more. - Can you look after me? I don't want tomatoes and get eggs. In the old town there are plenty of narrow, beautiful alleys and no cars.
Kotor has a turbulent history. Great earthquakes, one in the Middle Ages and two in 1979, have shaken the city. The last quakes killed numerous people, many hotels and historic buildings were destroyed. Also the famous cathedral of the city was affected. * Music * Hardly any buildings have survived the quakes. survived unscathed.
With international help many were rebuilt. On this, building you see, what the earthquake did. You see where the stone stops. - There's an edge to it.
Up to he line was the building was completely destroyed. * Music * Look, cats. - From this we have very many in the city. The Cat's Place of Kotor, the name says it all.
But why do they have such a great importance? Our cats are more or less domestic cats, because they are at home with us. You can sit down, don't be afraid. Hey. She doesn't want to. They're nice, though. - Okay. All my cats together.
You know them all, huh? - Yes. They are more at home here than we are. You won't get a cat out of the way. Hey my dear, servus. In the time of the plague we had a lot of rats. Half the city is on water, there are a lot of damp holes. We would have many rats there, which the plague from a person to the other.
When we saw the cats have brought to the city, they have caught all the rats and thus saved from the plague. Since then they have been Protector of the city. We even had a cat museum. We take good care of them. You will not see a skinny cat with us. * (meowing) * (rustling) She ate your mike. - She ate my mic.
But it looked fun. - Yes? This used to be a microphone. * Music * Although I love the whole city, something that is close to my heart, is this building, namely Hotel Marija. Marija is my grandma. My grandpa has the 1st private hotel opened throughout Montenegro, the only one at that time. Zdravo. - Zdravo.
This is the Ramon. Everything that is made of wood, was made here by the grandfather. His 1st major work was this hotel. When he finished building it, where he has fooled the most... Hvala.
...he has given the hotel given the name Marija. This is my granny or his beloved wife. Grandma also comes here every morning, more or less. My day also starts here every morning. I'll have a coffee first with my mother, my grandma and with 6 aunts, I am one of 20 grandchildren. After that also almost nothing can go wrong. That sounds insanely beautiful. - It's the same.
Why can you actually German that good? After all, we had the Yugoslav wars. That's why my brother, my mother, my father and me, we are '99 emigrated to Germany. We were then 7 years in Castrop-Rauxel.
There I am 6 years went to school. When I came back, I was 12, I was the German here. So in Germany I was the Foreigner and here the foreigner. No home really. - Nah. I wanted to go back to Germany. After a few years I have seen where I live.
Now I wouldn't... - Do you feel more comfortable here? Yes, it is like a gigantic living room. Everyone is there, we argue, we love each other, everyone knows each other here.
How would you describe a typical describe Montenegrin life? I believe our quality of life here is already very good. We live by the sea, we have the Mountains, we have family everywhere. It really is a warm feeling, to live here. And if you work, you're on holiday.
If you work until 2, after 2 you are also on holiday. You go to the sea, you go swimming, lying in the sun. I would say, it is paradise. I'm not just saying that, because I am from here. The quality of life here is very good. I would also never go somewhere else, because it can't get any better than this.
Mima doesn't stop at all, to shine, When they about their homeland. And she wants to show us even more. * Music * This is the entrance to the city walls. The laundry is hanging up there. Exactly, there are very many people who still live in the old town. You must be somewhere dry the laundry, so this must be between the alleys.
Looks totally romantic. The laundry even has it to an art object. This is made of sheet metal. Our next destination: the fortress Sveti Ivan above the old town. The climb is supposed to be tough. Now begins the hard part of the tour.
It's going to be steep, I realise. It starts right away, because we will now go up the stone walls, to the very top, 1,365 steps. * Music * This is the city wall. The construction work began in in the 6th century, so it's very old. In the earthquakes it has already been partially destroyed.
But it is more or less well intact, and we will now go all the way to the top. Ciao. - Ciao. Gets warm too, doesn't it? And it's getting even warmer, when we break in a little.
When you walk up here in the summer.... - Nobody does that. No? - Yes, it is. - It is, isn't it? Once in the kick, it goes quite well after all.
* Music * But the boys were pretty badass, who built that up there and hauled up the stones. You can take one and try. Imitate them. - Just carry it up.
Take this one upstairs? Okay. But the outlook. Now I understand. - Not true. The old town, the mountains, the sea, as if painted. But the view should be up be even more spectacular. So go on.
* Music * For those who like it extreme, here still a sporting insider tip. There are also a via ferrata to the fortress. 3 years has the approval took. Today, experienced climbers may with a guide high and on the way the enjoy the incredible panorama. * Music * After 1 h we also reach the highest vantage point.
A few more steps. - Madness. And are rewarded with breathtaking view. For God's sake, that's beautiful.
That is impressive. - Isn't it? My city. Kotor is one of the most important tourist cities in Montenegro. But there are still insider tips. - Do you have one? Yes. Ada Bojana.
For me, Ada is Bojana, I cannot describe, definitely a piece of paradise, that is in our country. I love that about my country: One has such a thing, you also have the mountains. And you have Ada Bojana, a 13 km long sandy beach. That's where I'm going. - Yes, you have to do it. * Music * Away from package tourism Montenegro lets itself also discover individually. Hotels and holiday flats on the coast are the classics, find more original alternatives is located somewhat off the beaten track in the interior of the country.
E.g. north the capital Podgorica on a small farm near Danilovgrad. * Music * Darko offers at his donkey farm Overnight stays and work. Because with 50 animals there's always something to do. Come, come. Dodi, dodi.
(ass iahen) There is always a dominant donkey. It's this one, Juliette. She is always the first, when we bring these sweet things. The carrots taste so good to them, like children an ice cream in summer. Each of them has a name and a personality of its own. We had thousands in Montenegro, Thousands.
There was no household without a donkey. The animals were the best help in the very hard life in the Montenegrin villages. But when people 30, 40 years ago moved from the villages to the cities, they started, Use machines, and the donkeys became superfluous and rubbish. When I started my farm founded 7 years ago, cost an animal on the Market in Podgorica only 25 euros, only. The donkeys were then bought by hunters, to give them to their hunting dogs to feed.
With 25 euros had 100 kg of meat with it. I am a bird researcher and know Montenegro very well. I realised that the donkeys one of the most endangered species in the country. On his farm, Darko rescues donkeys. In Montenegro there are only about 200 left. I bought them 3 years ago, so that they no longer is treated badly.
It was very bloody, because she had to transport wood. She is still not quite fit. But it is also very old, and I bought them, so that they here can enjoy her twilight years. Sometimes after my work I come here and sit down and watch them graze. Then you see that life can be something simple and does not have to be complicated as in the cities.
* Music * The youngest farm resident is only 7 days old, by the way. * Music * His guests can enjoy Darko not only help with its animals. For him, environmental protection is an important topic. Darko collects and separates rubbish. In Montenegro rather still the exception. * Music * We recycle everything.
The farm was built from used or built with recycled materials, and we compost. Darko's passion is fascinating. In addition to the income from Overnight guests he finances the farm with the sale of donkey milk. A donkey gives 400 ml a day, and this is the most expensive milk in the world.
One litre costs 50 euros. The milk is very healthy. People use them e.g. for respiratory problems. When I was young, I was in responsible for 4 donkeys in my village. I love animals. * Music * About 30 min south of Kotor lies the Luštica peninsula.
It is in large parts still quite original. There are many olive groves and unspoilt nature. Here, too, the original Feel the country life of Montenegro. We visit Gisella at her Self-catering farm with guest rooms.
* Music * Gisella, are you there? - Yes. How are you? - Ramon my friend. What is this place? This is our Mediterranean property. an oasis for good people, for the family, for animals, friends, Plants and good souls. Madness, how much energy Gisella has.
This is also evident on their farm. She grows plants, Cares for animals and builds local food. You have some great fruit here. Yeah, what do you think it is? - A small mini orange. Yes, we call her Fortunella. - Fortunella? Fortunella, she brings luck.
Okay. - Try it. With shell? - Yes, of course, with a shell, Now we pick some more of this and other fruits. Then we make together a great citrus liqueur out of it. For the liqueur we pick all the citrus fruits, that Gisella's garden yields, and there are a few. Vegetable beds and fruit trees, wherever the eye looks. Citrus fruits this big harvesting itself, for beginners it's not that easy.
The big one. - The big one? It is full of vitamins. It's not that easy, to cut them off. It doesn't come off at all. Like a football.
Great, finally. This will taste fantastic because it is very rich in bitter substances. This is the note that gives the liqueur gives the special taste. * Music * What do you feel when you see this great view? I feel new inspiration for my compositions. You are a musician? - Yes, new ideas for my songs.
You will later hear something too. Let's go, it's raining. Gisella is a studied pianist, her husband Neza more professional Drummer and keyboard player. Together they make a difference at festivals Music, later also with us.
But now of course there are first of all home-brew. I have homemade schnapps here. One is made of plums.
And the other is liqueur. This is Slivovic, which is a kind of Fruit brandy made from plums. And that is liqueur from wild pomegranates. Ah, the big red ones. Yes, full of vitamin C, and I love this colour. In Germany they say cheers, what do they say in your country? Cheers, we say Ziveli.
Cheers. - Ziveli. Cheers. - Cheers. - Ziveli. Attention, coming up again the booze face.
What do you say? Very strong. Yes, strong. Guys, let's get going. - Let's go. And now, make your own schnapps. We have lime, grapefruit, Oranges, tangerine, fortunella. All citrus fruits, That is all we need.
In the meantime, you must be sure to eat something. Shall I take something from you? No, this is the homemade welcome. Neza serves up. Montenegrin hospitality and homemade delicacies from the region.
So warm and so delicious. * Music * Loza is the basis. After the citrus fruits we make this grape brandy with it, and then comes the honey.
Would you like your life than the typical montenegrin Describe lifestyle? No, it's not typical. Our life is a kind of mix of art, nature and good souls. This is our way and that is something special. Now comes the honey? - Yes.
This is going to be delicious. And the grape brandy to go with it? Yes, you have to water very slowly, so that he can be everywhere around the fruit. He has to get into every corner. - Okay. That looks really cool. - Yeah, it's gonna be good. # Shake it baby now shake it baby. ♪
Please try. # Come on, twist and shout, twist and shout. ♪ How does it taste, can we try? He has to move for two months first, but I have for you what prepared.
* Music * It's totally fruity and super tasty. Could you tell me about your Show music? Would you sing? Yes, all right. - Okay, let's go. The man of the house, the music man. - Yes.
You are my assistant. Can I join in? (both) Yes. Let's get started. - I am the Shaker. Let's try it, let's go. Welcome to Luštica. Welcome to paradise, welcome to paradise.
Welcome to paradise. ♪ Welcome to paradise. It's like paradise here in Montenegro. It is madness. What a day, what people.
Thank you so much. Thank you so much. Thank you, my friend, you're welcome. The Luštica Peninsula is perfect for a day trip. On the 35 km long coast lies the village of Ruža. * Music * Here, right on the Adriatic Sea, we meet Helga and Igi again.
They want us Luštica show from the water. * Music * Igi, what are we doing today on the water? If you look here, this is a submarine shaft from the former Yugoslav military. That's where we're going in. Until the 1990s, the Peninsula military restricted area.
The shafts were used to store submarines and other military equipment tested. Today everything is deserted here, the atmosphere somehow eerie and impressive at the same time. A little further out, the the wild beauty of Luštica. from the restricted area to a tourism hotspot. (Helga) This is the Mamula. This is a former prison island.
So really the Alcatraz, I'll say, from Montenegro, although now a top hotel gets on it. Great location, you can actually only by helicopter or by boat. With the small purse... ... you spend the night there probably not. How original do you find Montenegro because still with all the tourism and stuff? Very original. I think especially in Montenegro you can still find a lot authentic Balkans. Both in terms of culture, but also in terms of nature.
There are such great natural wonders, I say. We're going to one now too. - Is this such a natural wonder? Yes, for me in any case. And it is created by nature, the blue grotto. If we are tough enough, we even go swimming. (Igi) Every time I am surprised again and again of this play of light, that is absolute madness.
Once turquoise blue, dark blue, light blue, emerald green. Already at the entrance of the grotto plays nature plays its first trump card. It's totally breathtaking. I find the atmosphere makes you so awestruck. (Igi) What nature thinks about and what it has created, totally crazy.
A little reminiscent to the famous grotto of Capri, but without mass tourism. Unbelievable. Wow.
17° water temperature. Nevertheless, Helga does not hesitate. That's mega cold. - It's mega cold. But it doesn't matter, we swore to each other. So, one, two, three. (Helga screams) Cold.
Unbelievable. Cold, but incredibly refreshing. Straight back in, what an experience. * Music * * Music * Further along the sea.
Montenegro's coast is only 300 km long, but the Adriatic offers here lots of bathing fun. Rocky coves, pebble or sandy beach, there is something for everyone here. * Music * But Montenegro has much more to offer. The next morning goes deeper into the country.
* Music * Away from the coast, away from the water, Today we're off into the mountains of Montenegro. I've been seeing them for days all around me. They look spectacular and powerful.
That's why I'm so happy, to finally visit. How do I get there? Well, it's off to the railways. Good morning. Which one of you is Michael? - Here. I am Michael. Hi, greetings. - Hello, good morning. * Music * The route leads from the coastal town of Bar about the capital Podgorica up to the high mountains to Kolašin in the north.
On the way we pass the highest railway bridge in Europe, it's going to be an adventure. Michael, where do you come from actually come from? I come from Ransbach-Baumbach in the Westerwald. That's near Koblenz, isn't it? Exactly, is near Koblenz and have lived here for 15 years now. Come on, let's sit in here.
And what made you to come here? I once took a holiday here many years ago, found this super beautiful and super interesting. So I started slowly, Flats for rent, tours, more and more guests came. I have lived here ever since and find it beautiful. What is special on the railway? The special thing is that they are so, as she is driving at the moment, has already been driving for 50 years. - Where does it lead? You drive from Bar to the Serbian capital Belgrade.
We go up now from 0 m sea level at over 1,000 m to Kolašin. There's the sea up ahead. We are now just before Sutomore. It's a trip, that Germans love to do, because we have found that Germans like to travel by train. It's nice to sit here too, isn't it? The landscape runs like in the cinema.
One sees within a short time very much of the country. One has completely different impressions. Of course, you also see things, where you would otherwise not be able to go. Aha, there are already the first photos were taken. Hello, may I come in with you? (woman) Of course. Servus. - Servus.
This is Sheila. Hello Sheila, greetings. Do you know what that is for a body of water? This is our Skutari Lake, Lake Skadar. Lake Skadar.
The largest lake in the Balkans we will also visit. And at this sight the anticipation is really high. * Music * (woman) I am the guide here.
I live my passion through my profession. Cool. And speak like a German? Yes, my roots are here in the north of Montenegro and also in Düsseldorf. Which district? - Flingern. Flingern, that's funny.
When did you decide, to come back here? That was in 2007, when our 1st child became of compulsory school age. There we have made the decision, the children here in nature to grow up close to nature. Is that the reason, why you came back, the landscape, nature? The landscape, nature and also family.
If you have your people here, it's great, When the children can grow up with. How long have you been here? - We've been here just under a week. Have been on the road for 4 weeks and are over Croatia came to Montenegro.
And are actually fascinated. This is our first time in Montenegro, but am still surprised from the diversity, so water and mountains. This is our first time there and we are not the last time there, definitely. For sure, for sure. * Music * To the west of the route lies one of the most important monasteries of the Serbian Orthodox Church, to which pilgrims flock from all over the world.
The upper part of the monastery consists from 2 small churches, which were built in caves. * (bells chiming) * Music * Saint Vasilije is worshipped here, he is considered the builder of the monastery of Ostrog. * Church singing * Particularly impressive is the architecture of the church. It lies at an altitude of 900 m and is in the middle of a rock been built, to protect it from attacks. * Music * Our train reaches its first stop, Montenegro's capital Podgorica. Come along, because now there are a special attraction for you.
We are now going into the locomotive. Then you can go the rest of the way in front together with the locomotive driver experience in the locomotive. Once around the locomotive and it goes in from the other side. Play train driver. Cool thing.
So, then... The journey with the train driver can be booked exclusively, a real insider tip. Today Nikola and Micko are driving. Ahead of us lies a very special Route with the 50-year-old train. You have a super job, don't you? - Yes, a fantastic job.
Apart from that, that I have to operate the locomotive, which is a challenge, the route is added. There are many bridges and tunnels, and it always comes back to stone chips. Often people also happen the route. So I have to be highly concentrated. I have heard, the route is totally spectacular.
There are the gradients... * (horns honking) ...and action. If only because of the Challenge for train drivers. And because of the large incline on the route from 25% and the many bridges and tunnels. About 1/3 of the way to Serbia is located in Montenegro.
The route takes 2 hours through 107 tunnels and over 106 bridges. * Music * Often it is only one lane with only a few passing sidings. Oncoming traffic must honk be announced. Time to honk? Here, yes? * (horns honking) * (horns honking) * (horns honking) Woohoo. * Music * This is a holiday for the eyes.
* Music * Why are you stopping the train? What happened? Something just happened here. I have no idea what, but the colleague tries to regulate it. Maybe he just calls with his wife, because he had not seen her for a long time and wanted to say hello. (Micko) Idemo, go, go. - Hats cleared, good man. Micko, what happened? What happened? The signal was out of function. And then we are committed, to stop and call the next station, for the approval to get on the road.
And is everything approved? - Yes. * Music * The train takes us to an altitude of almost 1,000 m. For this we go straight over the highest railway bridge in Europe, the highlight of this trip.
* Music * Whoa. Wow, it goes down deep. Whoa. Dude, that's gross.
* Music * We are 200 metres above the ground. With the railway in the middle of the mountains of Montenegro, Hammer. * Music * Here in front from the perspective, so through the mountains with the curves and the tunnels, that's adrenaline pure, I can really recommend that. This train journey is an unforgettable adventure. And it brings us into the beautiful mountain world of Montenegro.
Here lies the Durmitor Park, the largest of the country's 5 national parks. Right in the middle, a natural wonder of superlatives, the Tara Gorge. With a length of almost 80 km it is considered the longest and deepest gorge in Europe. It is named after the Tara, with 140 km the longest river in the country. Because of the many rapids a perfect place for rafting. Lupo was born here and offers tours on the Tara.
Are you ready? First, all the feet must into the loops. Then you can control like this, if you are sure. For the children in the middle it is okay, they just have to stay seated. Let us first try, all to paddle close to the boat, all together now. All call the Tara River the tear of Europe.
Why? Because it is so clean, as you can see. The Tara Canyon is the deepest Canyon in Europe, 1,380 m deep. The special thing here is nature and life in the wilderness. The adventures here, that's it. Every day I meet new people or see many animals. Deer, for example, or mountain goats.
They are the queens of the mountains here. Because they can go anywhere in the mountains. It is a paradise for them.
12 km on the wild water and along the beautiful nature. Many do not believe that such a thing exists in the world. This untouched nature. If you go deeper into the canyon, there is a completely wild part. No villages, no roads, nothing.
Only untouched nature around you. You only hear the birds, the water, a few sources, and that was it. But suddenly it becomes restless, the rapids are coming. Forward, forward.
Stop, you have to paddle forward, not backwards. All together, go. * Music * Okay, guys, the Angry River is on the left.
2,000 to 3,000 litres of water flow through it. water per second. He is one of the fastest and shortest rivers in the world. * Music * Lupo wants us show the natural spectacle in more detail. Paddling up is not possible, but hike up. After 5 minutes the spot comes, where the river appears on the surface.
The water is cold, clear and clean. What a spectacle. And even if Lupo grew up here, he still enjoys it every day anew. V.a. you have here every day fresh air and tranquillity. Not like in the cities, where people are stressed and work a lot. Here one is completely relaxed.
Where else can you find that? When you're in the office, what do you decide? Office or nature? Nature, of course. Bathing here is something for the very brave. The water rarely gets warmer than 13°. * Music * Whoever wants to experience the gorge from above If you want to go, go to the big bridge. Here are not only a fantastic view, but also lots of Thrills and fun for the, who dare to go on the zipline. * Music * Away from the canyon, the Discover the park easily by car, on the "Durmitor Ring".
The Panorama Circuit leads over high plateaus. Past small villages, pristine nature and a few surprises. An old car graveyard with real collector's items. * Music * After the rough Durmitor Park we go to the east of the high mountains.
We are visiting Europe's oldest national park: Biogradska Gora. The black looking trees in the mountains, by the way, are according to legend, the reason for the Names of Montenegro, black mountains. This is where the Montenegrin Nature from another side. * Music * We have 5 national parks in Montenegro. This is one the oldest in the world. And one of the last primeval forests in Europe.
The tree is huge. Yes, it is a beautiful old elm tree. How old is she? - About 300 years old. Really? - Yes, very old.
We have many of them in the park. How is it that this park has been protected for so long? In 1878, King Nikola ordered, that this should be a protected space, because there are so many old trees and pristine nature. So he was a nature lover? - Yes, exactly.
The park includes 6 glacial lakes. With a permit even fishing is allowed. Little insider tip: Camping is also allowed here.
* Music * Almost 2,000 plant and 86 different tree species are at home here. What animals live here in the forest? We have many bears, wolves. Bears? - Of course. Really? And you're just telling me this now? We have one here. - Ah, such bears. We actually have Brown bears here, but this is a sculpture by a local artist.
Are they dangerous? No, they are not, they run away from people. Do you see the wild animals here, when camping, for example? Yes, that happens. But there has never been a dangerous situation with the bears, nothing.
Were there any nice situations? Yes, some take photos or a video, that is not dangerous. Before the next bear I don't have to be afraid. It smells very good here. Yes. - Because of the plants.
They are very well known. What do you call them? - Sriamush. Sriamush? - Sremus. Sremus or wild garlic.
This is wild garlic. Everything here is full of wild garlic, Madness. Totally. - Like onion. Are you allowed to pick them? Maybe a couple, a little bit to make a salad. So a small portion You can take wild garlic with you.
But not too much, just for a little salad. * Music * It's awesome. This is pure idyll in one of the few virgin forests in Europe.
The great thing is, It's easy to hike. It's pretty flat, and you don't have to be sporty. * Music * Milja leaves the hiking trail, to show us something special. The people have to be on the stay on marked paths, this path is not marked.
It is a bear trail and not in public. Really, a bear trail. - Yes. Come on, the water is not deep.
Yes. Full in. Is there a chance Bears to see, if we follow their paths are on the road? - Maybe.
Around 20 bears live in this environment. We go to a feeding station. What's that? Watch out, that's a dead boar. Oh my God, a wild boar. When we find dead animals in the forest, we take them to the feeding station, so that the bears can eat the meat.
There is a camera over there, do you see them on the tree? - Yes. We then make Photos and videos. So you document this? - Yes, exactly. * Music * Thank you very much for this great experience. I was pleased.
And thank you for our nature. This is very important. Thank you, I hope you will come again. - Sure, I'll be back. Then we also meet a bear. - Right, ciao. * Music * Quite original stay overnight in the mountains, that is possible in "Etno Villages".
Mostly stand the small wooden huts with traditional pointed roofs at the edge of the streets. Rustic and simple, for 2 to 4 persons. There is often a common room, where traditional homemade dishes are served. Or visitors take advantage of the stay, to simply switch off for a while. * Music * We meet Stojan, who builds his own huts. I'm building a new chalet here.
This is the foundation for the new house. There will be a terrace to the front. And the outer stone will be very rustic, so that it fits in well with nature. I'm doing 30 jobs at once here, i am everything here. Sometimes it gets very stressful, I don't have time for that. That's why, for example, I made the furniture for the house already made in winter.
We had 2 m of snow, and there had I have time for the smaller things, so make the furniture. * Music * Stojan builds on the land of his ancestors. He is sure, that his houses have a future. I want something special for my guests, if they come from abroad or other places, to be in nature. Then they can stay overnight in the wooden houses, where everything is handmade.
* Music * Ever since I was little the idea of tourism here. All my cousins have laughed at because I was 13. Then I moved to Kotor, finished my studies, worked for many international companies. I had 200 employees under me. Then I thought, you don't have Time for you, you don't even have Time for a 1 h break to to relax or reflect.
Everything always had to run, run, run. One day I decided, To live my dream and do this. I quit my job and started the project here. For 4 years now he has been building New huts summer after summer and has in it found his fulfilment. Here I have peace. Even though there is a lot to do, I have to just sit in front of the house looking at the mountain, have a rakia or coffee, and then I can relax.
When you put in your hard work do with heart and passion and you like them, then you are happy. Our journey through Montenegro finally leads us to the largest lake of the Balkans, Lake Skadar. * Music * Krstinja leads here a family business, which offers boat tours.
1,2,3... Well done. - Thank you. What can I expect on this tour? Peace and silence, because it's the beginning of the season.
There will be many birds to see. But also beautiful flowers, water lilies, they are just beginning to flower. And you can take a breath, you can feel the silence. * Music * What kind of bird is that? - It's a grey heron. How many different bird species live here? We have 281 species of birds, of course not all at the same time.
Most fly to South Africa, but we still have birds here all year round. I want you show these two lines, this is the water level in the winter time. See the green stickers? That is the height, the water goes so high in winter. The water level of the lake fluctuates strongly, by up to 5 m depending on the season. This is due to the melting snow in the neighbouring mountains. All the water from Lake Skadar changes at least 3 times a year.
The water goes into the Adriatic Sea and through the Bojana River. * Music * Ramon, do you want to try something? Yeah, you're super nice. - You're welcome. So, take that. This is smoked, marinated carp.
We have 48 types of fish here in the lake. The most famous and tastiest is the carp. Many people who fish here, are out for the carp. It is a local speciality.
Mh. - Do you like him? Wow, this is delicious. Tastes great. Look, another bird.
We stole his fish. How did you get this job? How did this start? I organise the boat trips with my family. We have been doing this since 2010. In the beginning it was Step by step, but now we have plenty of customers, and there is a lot to do.
But I get the with my family. My impression of Montenegro is, that many men work and the women not so much. Is this a false impression? This is how it was in the past, but since we are on the way into the European Union, it has changed. There are many women, who work in the same way as men. So the country is developing? Yes, it is developing very quickly, and I am very happy about that. Cormorants where they are, is also the most famous bird of the lake is not far.
Here is one of the last Pelican colonies of Europe. When we talk about the character of the pelicans, I have a joke. I always tell people, it is a montenegrin bird, because he is lazy. Are you lazy? - Yes, we are the laziest people in the world. Montenegrins believe, if you can do something tomorrow, then do it tomorrow too or the day after tomorrow. So the pelican is not really lazy.
He cannot dive and therefore he waits on the fish at the surface. The cormorants fish together with the pelicans. The cormorants drive the fish to the surface, and the lazy pelican then snaps shut. Krstinja shows us another special feature of the lake. These are the famous water lilies? - Yes, they are. You can pick the white ones.
This one is beautiful. Okay, well done. - Thank you. Let's sit down, I want you show something. - I am curious.
Do you want to? - I can give it a try. Up to here. But you won't tell me, what it will be? No, you will recognise it. Like this, or more? No, that's enough.
Come here. Ah, a necklace. - Yes, for you. Do you like it? - Yes, thank you It even smells. - Yes, a bit. Smell very good, it totally smells. * Music * I really feel here the power of nature. - Exactly.
* Music * One last time we go back to the sea. Near the town of Ulcinj in the estuary delta of the river Bojana lies the island of Ada Bojana. It is triangular, only 6 sq km in size and is completely covered by the almost 40 km long river enclosed. * Music * The stilt houses along the river are a real eye-catcher.
Mima told me to to the south of Montenegro. And that's where I am now, in the southernmost part. Up ahead is the border with Albania, here in front is the river Bojana. Take a look, how beautiful this looks.
This is madness. The German Alex Korb lives here and picks us up with the motorboat. You're in paradise here. - I think so.
We have been here longer, we perceive this as normal already. You live around here, right? Yes, that is actually like a small village here. There are all the boathouses, We have 600 boathouses here.
Crass. It was actually traditional earlier, you see these... Fishing boom. - That's right, they call themselves Kalimeras.
These are the fishing nets, the fishermen have lowered into the current from the river. Then they let the 1/2 h approximately in the water. The disturbance gives quasi the fish into the nets.
Then the nets are lifted and then they fish. What do they catch here? These are freshwater fish, because the river has fresh water for the first 2 m and salt water at the bottom. You mainly catch here Predatory fish, brancines, dorades.
These are the main types. That is also what we in the pubs, the restaurants, who are here at the river, fresh on the plate. Strong. - That's really good. Unfortunately disappear these original Fisherman's buildings slowly. There are more holiday homes for that. Even stars like Formula 1 drivers Lewis Hamilton have already spent their holidays here.
Here in front you see the bridge. This is also a relatively funny topic here. Because this bridge is single lane. On this bridge the traffic then bumps into each other. Then they all stand in the middle of the bridge opposite, and no one wants to go back. Because there's a little rule.
On the middle of the bridge is a white line. Whoever reaches this line first, who may... He's right? - It has the right of way. And the others everyone has to drive back. Then they fight in the summer.
There are already people thrown off the bridge, because they were fighting so much, because no one wants to give in. You can sit in the restaurants. Then you see how the cars stand and people argue, who goes back, who gets to drive, Megaspectacle. I can well imagine that.
* Music * Here in front you see the exit from the Bojana River into the sea, into the Adriatic Sea. That's the way into the sea? - It goes straight into the sea. We turn off beforehand, to one of the restaurants on the river.
Dobar dan, hello. Dva kafu. Cappuccino, yes. - Cappuccino is good.
The whole restaurant is littered with signatures. There's a little tradition here, Ramon. Every guest who is here, gets a pen when he leaves and writes his name on the wood.
Here, it's still completely blank. There is still room, otherwise everything is written all over. Ramon.
Beautiful. I have a sow's claw. No, Ramon, did you beautifully written. * Music: Xavier Rudd "Follow The Sun" * ♪ Follow, follow the sun. And which way the wind blows.
When this day is done. Breath, breath in the air. ♪ Alex takes us to his Kite school on the nearby beach. Montenegro is an insider tip for Kiter. Time to give it a try. I am preparing a kite here.
But we will first go to the coach kite. We can't go straight onto the water? (laughs) It takes a little practice for the whole. And you need to know a little bit, where the wind comes from.
We'll have to look at that in a moment. And then you first have to learn to fly the kite. That you get a feeling for it. - On land. Then let's take the trapezes, Ramon. I get this one? - Yeah, you get that one. This is a somewhat lower seated trapeze.
Put this around your waist once. That is not entirely without danger, isn't it? I say, if you learn it well... From someone like you? ...then it's one thing, that can be calculated and not dangerous.
You just have to learn it properly, then it's not a problem. But you have to have respect, that already has a certain violence, such a kite. All right. So Ramon, this is our practice kite.
Here lie everywhere so lines on the floor. - Yes. The kite is connected, of course. This is not yet wireless. With an iPhone. (laughs) And the kite goes up. It still has to fill up now.
I trust you, okay? - You should. - Very good. I'll put you in here now. I have connected you now. The Dragon is now on your trapeze. You can already feel a little pull. - Yes, full. And now like with a bicycle handlebar....
Look, on the left. Right. You see, we're at 12 o'clock. The Dragon reacts somewhat delayed. You have to counter-steer beforehand.
And to the left. - Whoa, dude. Dude, dude. That's nothing yet? - Nah.
And on the left. - Whoa. Yeah, yeah. All right, all right. - Yes. - Check, check. When you steer, the kite flies. You're doing great.
It already looks like kiting. Class. And right. It must not roll over. - No, no. And on the left.
Do not crash if possible let. - I'll try that. You are right in the centre. With the little wind, you realise, there's quite a draught coming. Dude, full. Fly again after 12 o'clock.
Do you feel him pulling? I feel you pulling at the back. - I hold you. Thank you, I don't know if would otherwise be able to manage it. That's when it happened right away. - No problem. The kite is made for this, it may fall off. I think you have talent.
That is why we are now going to the right kite. * Music * What is so special about surfing in Montenegro? The special thing... We need yes to kite the wind. And the wind here works like clockwork. When we have sun, the wind comes at 1 o'clock sharp. And at 6 o'clock he's gone again. - So regularly? Yes, we can always a little bit according to that, after such a certain rhythm.
What you know with us, there must be you always have to look a bit, just with us in the northern climes, we have wind, when we have bad weather. Here we have wind, when we have good weather. And it's more fun, when you have sun and warmth. The kite is now twice as big.
And so was my excitement. Nothing else than with the trainer kite. Only that it has a bit more bang. And you have to look more relaxed. - Yeah? Okay. Do you notice anything? - Yes, full. Lean against it nicely, work nicely against it.
From left. (laughs) Yes. From right. From left. Don't pull so hard. To the left. Woohoo. When you're drawn away, you lie down... on the water and let you pull.
Yes. Super. And on the left.
If that ever happens with a board under your feet succeeds, then a dream comes true. I am thrilled. I am proud of you. Thank you very much. I think that was the Coolest thing I've ever done. Montenegro. - Thank you Alex. And now out of the wet Clothes and dry off.
If there was this cute little Montenegrin street dog would not be. * Music * The kiters let the day around the campfire. Cheers people. - Cheers Ramon.
Alex's wife Anke is also there. How long have you been doing this? We are now in our sixth year. When Alex came up with the idea back then, said, Anke, we are going to Montenegro, I said, you're out of your mind. What did you think back then? It was like: Montenegro, where is that? Help, Albanian border. Here in Germany there are so certain prejudices. They were gone after a holiday.
We already have our things leave it on the beach at night. Here has never been a car broken into. As a woman, you can come here at any time. day and night,
without being called stupid. You don't need any fears to have. We have previously lived in Frankfurt. There you have more insecure than here? - Yes. Here you can walk at night, nothing will happen to you. On the contrary.
Someone stops and asks you, where do you have to go. Then you can relatively unhesitatingly, he'll drive you home. What are you doing here? We have emigrated from Switzerland.
Really? And already regretted? No. We haven't been there long, but we just love the country. Why then, what is it the beautiful thing for you? The possibilities, the quality of life, nature and the people. This kite beach, of course. Think, that is unique as a kiter. And actually everything seems perfect for us here at the moment. And where do you come from? - We come from Schwelm. NRW. - Right.
How are you here, by plane, car? With the camper van. We are just passing through, on the way to Albania. That's when we stopped here. Here is beautiful. * Music * Montenegro is a very wonderful country. Quite small, but for that there is much to discover. And because it's so small, I have made it in a short time to many great places.
Lots of small, original Places, real insider tips. I will definitely be back. Alex, next time I stand on the board, and we'll kite together. Promise. Cheers. - Cheers people, on Montenegro. Ziveli. Copyright WDR 2022
2022-10-12 04:11
