Exploring Kyushu's Four Largest Cities | Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Fukuoka, Kitakyushu | japan-guide.com
Japan's third largest island, Kyushu, is rich in culture and history. Home to spectacular volcanic landscapes, distinctive local food and lively cities, each with their own story to tell yet currently only a fraction of international visitors to Japan make it here. In this video I'll introduce Kyushu's four largest cities - Kagoshima, a city in the shadow of an active volcano, Kumamoto, with it's impressive castle, Fukuoka, ranked among Japan's most liveable cities and Kitakyushu, the main gateway into Kyushu, known for its nostalgic port area. My name is Matt Evans, staff writer for japan-guide.com.
Join me on a 4-day trip exploring Kyushu's four largest cities. Day One. Kagoshima. I begin close to the southern tip of Kyushu in Kagoshima. Looming over the city from across
the bay is Sakurajima, a beautiful and very active volcano that regularly sends plumes of smoke and ash into the air. A historic city in a spectacular, subtropical setting Kagoshima is often compared to its sister city of Naples, Italy due to it's climate, laid-back atmosphere and its volcano-dominated landscape. Today, I'll take a tourist loop bus to visit the landscape garden of Sengan-en. Next, I'll hop back onto the loop bus and take a ferry across the bay to participate in a guided sea kayaking tour for some beautiful views of Mount Sakurajima. Sengan-en is a traditional landscape garden located on the coast just slightly north of the city center. It was built almost 400 years ago as a retreat for the ruling Shimadzu Clan one of the most successful and longest running samurai families who ruled over southern Kyushu.
Inside, visitors can explore a series of beautiful, interconnected spaces with giant stone lanterns, bamboo groves, flowing streams and small shrines. Japanese gardens are well known for the technique of borrowed scenery in which the garden seems to expand to include features from the surrounding landscape but not many have such a perfect backdrop to work with as this one. At its heart is a stately former residence with beautifully preserved rooms and furnishings. In and around the garden are the remains of an early industrial complex, marking one of the earliest attempts in Japan to produce iron through newly adopted western technology destined for use in ship and cannon building. Kagoshima, ruled by the Shimadzu clan since the
12th century, enjoyed a rare degree of independence as it was one of the furthest provinces from the shogun's own power base in what is today Tokyo. As a result, it produced some powerful leaders and innovative sites such as this industrial complex. Just next to the garden entrance and covered by the same admission ticket, this old stone factory building has been renovated into a museum dedicated to the story of the Shimadzu clan. in Japanese history, noble or warrior families could be identified by a unique crest called a mon. The Shimadzu's was this one in the shape of a cross. Today, many can still be found around the garden and in the residence.
Rounding off my time in Kagoshima, I make my way across the bay by ferry for a closer look at the spectacular Mount Sakurajima. The Sakurajima ferry takes just 15 minutes and runs 24 hours a day. While it might look intimidating, in fact several thousand people live on Mount Sakurajima.
Several observation points, a foot bath and some other attractions can be found around the base of the mountain but I'll be viewing it from a different perspective - from out on the bay by sea kayak. Taking in the mountain from the shore reveals fascinating geological details from curious rock formations, to black beaches and bubbling underwater springs. Sea kayaking might seem a bit intimidating for beginners but here in the Kagoshima bay the waters are warm, sheltered and calm and really just look at that view. Day two. Kumamoto.
For the second day of my trip, I'm in Kumamoto. Following two strong earthquakes in 2016, the city has bounced back and has a huge amount to offer visitors. From its spectacular castle to its laidback atmosphere and delicious local foods. Today I'll set off by tram to visit the castle where I'll first stop by the tourist market area of Sakuranobaba Josaien before visiting the castle keep. Then I'll take another tram to Suizenji Jojuen Garden.
Finally, I'll return by tram to the city center for some local delicacies at Yataimura. Located on the doorstep of Kumamoto Castle, this fun area recreates the bustling feel of a feudal-era castle town with 23 restaurants, shops and food stands offering their own take on classic local dishes. Two dishes you'll find a lot here are deep fried lotus root called karashi renkon and raw horse meat called basashi. Next, it's time to visit the castle itself. One of the most impressive castles in Japan and an icon of Kumamoto City. Built in the early 17th century, it was considered impregnable due to its size and strategic design. Sadly, the castle was severely damaged by two earthquakes in 2016 and although the main tower reopened in 2021, many buildings, including the reconstructed Honmaru Palace remain closed and we have many more years to wait until the entire castle has been fully reconstructed.
This winding, elevated walkway allows visitors to reach some of the inner areas without disturbing the ongoing reconstruction effort and is probably going to be a feature of the castle for a while to come but ultimately will be removed. For now though, the ability to look at the main tower and other buildings from multiple perspectives can really add something to your visit. Located 15 minutes southeast of the castle by tram, our next stop is Suizenji Jojuen Garden. A beautiful landscape garden arranged around a large pond.
Built in the 17th century, the site first belonged to a temple before being taken over by the local ruling family as a retreat. Taking a stroll through it is a bit like stepping into an imaginary landscape, complete with miniature forests and rolling hills - one shaped just like Japan's most famous mountain. For my last stop in Kumamoto, I'm at the Kumamoto Yataimura.
Located in the city center, it brings together 18 food stores or yatai into one narrow street with a cozy, relaxed atmosphere. The perfect place to take a break from a busy day of sightseeing while sampling some of the city's favorite dishes. This is Kagoshima-style stir fried pork temple meat called agoniku yaki. Okay next I'm going to try some yakitori.
This is tsukune. A kind of Japanese meatball served with raw egg and tare sauce. Next I'm going to try some classic Japanese comfort food, okonomiyaki. It's very hot. Day three. Fukuoka. Today I explore Fukuoka. A lively, laid-back city and the largest in Kyushu.
Fukuoka is a city with two faces. The old castle town from where it gets its name and the port area of Hakata once a separate settlement. While Hakata itself has long since been absorbed into the city, it lives on as the name of a central district and the main railway station. With its fortunes and population steadily on the rise, Fukuoka overtook Kobe as the fifth largest city in Japan a while ago and routinely places close to the top of global quality of life rankings. Drawing praise for its amenities, low cost of living and pleasant environment. Starting from my hotel on the Itoshima Peninsula just outside the city center, I'll explore the area of the Kitazaki Coast on a rented ebike then take a bus and train into the city center. Here, I'll take in a performance of two traditional arts before
setting out to explore the historic Hakata Old Town district and end the day with some local cuisine. The Kitazaki Coast is an oasis of tranquil nature located just outside and to the west of the city center and the perfect place to spend a peaceful half day. My accommodation here is the seven x seven Itoshima with an attractive coastal setting and all of its rooms facing towards the ocean. The hotel also offers ebikes for rent so I'm fully kitted out and ready to explore from the moment I set off. From here, I make my way north along the coast, enjoying the ocean views, before cutting across to the eastern side of the coast along a pleasant country road, passing rice fields and this lovely little temple.
After a very pleasant ride along both sides of the coast, I drop in for a coffee and a snack at the Surfside Cafe, a seaside diner with gorgeous ocean views. In the city center, I make my way along the busy streets to Hakata Geidokoro Wanoka a local tea house and art center run by a former geisha and offering a range of traditional performances. Although often associated with Kyoto, geisha can be found in several cities across Japan including Fukuoka, where a small but dedicated cadre of performers continues to keep the tradition alive. Here, visitors can enjoy a fascinating dance performance, set to traditional songs on the shamisen.
Included as part of the experience is the chance to chat with the maiko and even take part in traditional party games. In my case, after that wonderful performance, I get to enjoy this lovely traditional Japanese meal served in a cute bento box. Following on from that beautiful performance and thoroughly enjoyable meal, I set out on foot to explore Hakata Old Town. A historic part of the city
with preserved merchant houses, intriguing local craft shops and atmospheric temples and shrines. As night falls on Fukuoka, the buzzing atmosphere of the city center gives way to something more laid-back. One reason Fukuoka is such a great destination for food lovers is yatai or food stands like this. Found in various places throughout the city center, they offer food of all kinds and really contribute to the city's friendly atmosphere. In fact yatai were once a common sight throughout Japan but in recent decades have been disappearing - the exception being Fukuoka.
Very excited to be trying two Fukuoka local favorites. This is Hakata ramen, which is ramen in a thick, creamy tonkotsu broth and mentaiko, which is cured, spiced pollock roe. In this case, the mentaiko is wrapped in a Japanese omelet and flavored with dashi. It's called mentai dashimaki. Day four. Kitakyushu
For the final day of my trip, I'm in Kitakyushu. A city at the very northern tip of Kyushu and the gateway between Japan's first and third largest islands. Although best known as an industrial center and transport hub, the city also boasts a number of interesting attractions. What we now call Kitakyushu was formed by a merging of five smaller cities - the most famous being Kokura, which gave its name to the shinkansen station. Another was the major port town of Moji, which I'll be visiting today. Arriving at Mojiko Station, I'll be checking out some of the old port's historic buildings, stop to enjoy the popular local dish of yaki kare or grilled curry, before setting out on a rented ebike to end my day with the view across the Kanmon Strait from Mekari Shrine.
Facing towards the Kanmon Strait where at least 500 ships pass through every day, Moji remains a vital shipping hub but its historic port has been preserved with a nostalgic early 20th century atmosphere, celebrating its industrial heritage. We've just arrived at Mojiko Station. The current building dates to 1914 and was built in the Neo Renaissance style. It's one of Japan's oldest and I think most atmospheric train stations. As one of Japan's most important shipping ports, Moji was a gateway not just for freight but for ideas, art and design. Looking around,
we can still see a definite European influence in some of its most striking buildings. This eye-catching building is the former Moji Mitsui Club. Featuring this nice timber frame exterior and some lavish art nouveau details inside, it's best known for hosting Albert Einstein during his 1922 tour of Japan.
Just a short walk from the station is one of Moji's most iconic pieces of architecture, the old Mitsui OSK Lines Building. When it was built in 1917, it was the tallest building in Moji and served as an office and passenger lounge for a major shipping company. Another interesting building that played a vital role in the local shipping economy was this one, the former Moji Customs Building. Just a few steps from the harbor, we make a stop for lunch at Curry Honpo Mojiko Retro to try one of Kitakyushu's best-loved local dishes, yaki kare or baked curry.
If you come to Moji, this is one of those dishes that you're definitely going to see and maybe even smell too. Apart from the fact that it's cooked in an oven, what really makes this different from regular Japanese curry is the soft-boiled egg and melted cheese, adding an even richer flavor to the sauce. This one is made with local Kuroge wagyu so it's really really nice and tender. Leaving the old port behind, I pick up a rental ebike to explore a bit more of the area. From here, I continue north along the coast to Mekari Jinja, a Shinto Shrine located right at Kyushu's northern tip, just a few steps from the fast flowing waters of the strait.
Said to have stood, at least in some form, for over 1800 years, the shrine is dedicated to the deity associated with the moon and the ebb and flow of tides. 60 metres below the shrine lies the 780m long Kanmon tunnel footpath, allowing travelers to pass between Kyushu and Honshu on foot. While towering above it is the impressive Kanmon Bridge. It's quite a view, isn't it? The Kanmon Bridge connects Kyushu to Shimonoseki over on the Honshu side. It's over a kilometere in length placing it in the top 50 longest suspension bridges in the world. And that concludes our 4-day video introducing Kyushu's four major cities. For more information about
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2025-01-09 20:00
