EP - 1 A Day in Chanderi Heritage Monuments, Bundelkhand food, Chanderi silk, Madhya Pradesh
Namaskar friends! Welcome to Visa2explore! This is your host, Harish Bali. Today, we are out on a tour of Madhya Pradesh. Right now, I am in Chanderi. I have been wanting to visit Chanderi for the past two years. And Bhopal as well. So, finally, we've planned a tour.
We are starting our day with a visit to the Koshak Mahal. To learn more about Koshak Mahal and to tour Chanderi,... ...and basically, to get familiar with the city, we have Kalle Bhai with us. Please tell us more about the place we are visiting today. Yes Sir! So, we are here to visit the Koshak Mahal of Chanderi.
This building was built during 1445 by Mahmood Khilji, the Sultan of Malwa. There was also a Sultan of Jaunpur, Mahmood Sharqi. This palace was built to commemorate Sultan of Malwa's victory over Sharqi. Now, we are going to visit a palace, which has no room in it. It is a roomless palace! Because it was built, not for living, but to provide work to the unemployed. Very well maintained! It is well-maintained.
Seeing the remaining floors today, I can imagine how magnificent it must've looked long ago. Yes, long ago! From atop it, you can look quite far. Absolutely! And it would also be visible from afar! Yes, it was Sir! Earlier, when there were security personnel posted here,... ...they could keep their belongings in these alcoves. You can see the hinges still here, which meant there was a door to secure the things. They could place their cot here and sleep on it. Here, they would also be safe from the hot weather.
So, this is it! Since there were no rooms, the area remained cross-ventilated. Very nice! Can we go upstairs too? Yes, you can because there is a staircase in every corner of this building. You need to walk up eight steps to reach the upper floor. Shall we go? Sure! I am talking of this arch, this looks so good! Sir, the height of this arch is 45 feet. And this arch is resting on a four-inch stone.
If we remove that stone, this whole structure will fall down. That is the specialty of this structure! The keystone system! The keystone is the stone in the middle that bears the weight of the whole structure. If we pull it out, the whole structure would loosen up and collapse. That is how this 45-feet high gate was constructed. And wherever you look, you will see three doors, like these! 1..2..3...1..2..3.
Right now, we are standing on the second floor. But, when I look down, I feel like I am standing on the third floor. Third floor! This is because the floors used to be higher as compared to today's parameters.
Yes, the floors were constructed differently to let light and air in, maybe. Naturally! If you take a look at this room Sir... ...there used to be tile work in the gaps that you see between the pillars. Yes, in these gaps. You see this gap! Yes! The natural stone and those tiles used to highlight each other's colours. Along with that, let me tell you one more specialty of this architecture. This is known as the Indo-Islamic Architecture! Now, this portion is built as per the Indian architecture, also called Hindu Architecture.
This portion! Which part? This one, which is coming like this arch. The top one? Yes, that one! The arch part is Islamic so together, this architecture is called 'Indo-Islamic.' It is a unique combination of two different cultures. We can walk down from here. This is one of the two paths that lead towards the ground floor. We came up from here.
Yes! So, this is the other path. Yes, both ways look similar to us. Yes, that is why I got confused. It was a good decision to visit here. Now, where are we going next? Now, we are going to Kati Ghati. Kati Ghati! Is this Kati Ghati linked to Babar? Yes, Babar's link is with another Ghati (gorge) next to Kati Ghati.
Alright! We will talk more about it once we reach there. Okay, come! Come Sir! From Koshak Mahal, we travelled for about 3 KM. We are close to Kati Ghati. Now Kalle ji will tell us why this place is named 'Kati Ghati.' Kati Ghati, as you can see, is this pass between two mountains. This gate was built after this path was sliced through the mountain.
Why was this mountain cut through? Earlier, people had to climb the mountain to go to the other side. People faced a lot of difficulty in travelling that way. Apart from the public, this gate was also constructed to welcome a royal visitor! We are on the Bundelkhand side of the region and the other side is Malwa. This monument is an architectural marvel of 1490 and... ...it speaks volumes of the engineering ability of the times even without machines. What is there in front of us? That is 'Chanderi ka QIla', also known as 'Kirti Durg.'
It is one of the biggest and oldest forts in Central India. Will we visit the Fort tomorrow? Yes, sure, we will visit that Fort tomorrow. The surrounding view from there is beautiful! When we go in this direction... ...there is one more thing for which Chanderi is famous. This tree is called 'Khimri' and it bears yellow-coloured fruits.
Take a closer look at this tree, it is about 300 years old, as of now. It bears fruit once a year. This tree is about... ...300 years old. This afternoon, we... It was the same fruit that we ate and saw being sold. ...covered a little bit about it in our BTS episode. We have a saying here that whoever plants this tree doesn't enjoy its fruits.
And the one who eats its fruits doesn't plant it. This tree matures when it is 90 years old! It starts bearing fruit after that! So, the one who plants it has to wait 90 years to eat its fruit, which may or may not happen. The one who eats its fruit cannot be the one who has planted it. Here, take a look. Oh wow! He has already plucked a handful for us.
Yes! It is sold for Rs 100 per kilo in the market. It is costlier than most of the fruits. Should we wash it first? Thank you! You also have it. Yes, of course! Please take both! The fruit is sweet and tasty too! Each fruit has one seed inside. You shouldn't swallow it Sir.
You don't eat it! The seed is bitter in taste. Alright! The seeds of Chikoo (Sapodila) are the same but bigger in size. The time is about 5.15 PM. Yes! Now, where can we go next? Jama Masjid and Badal Mahal, two beautiful structures located within Chanderi city. We also have to see the light and sound show today? Yes, that we will go for in the evening today.
Alright! Please manage time accordingly so that we don't miss anything. Yes, absolutely! The local monuments are all located close to each other. Right now, we are here to visit Jama Masjid, dating back to the 15th century. So, we are inside the mosque. And you told me that Badal Mahal is located right opposite it. Do you see this wall, Badal Mahal is inside it, as are other monuments too.
But, the Badal Mahal is the main monument. This is the Jama Masjid. Look at its beautiful entrance.
I can see that the entrance is carved from the outside. It is a beautiful carving. This is the biggest mosque in the Bundelkhand region.
And it is also considered the oldest. At a time, 2000 devotees can offer namaz here. The specialty of this mosque is that it has been continuously in use since its inception. Though overall simple, the Qibla wall (wall facing Mecca) is highly decorated. And whichever monument you visit in Chanderi, you'll see these typical brackets. These S-shaped brackets! This is typical Chanderi art, and these brackets are carved out of stone.
As we've been talking about Chanderi in our conversations, it is an ancient city. It is an ancient city. We have the oldest remnants dating back to 2nd century B.C., which are man-made.
We have historical evidence of the same. Dating back to Ashoka! Starting with Ashoka's reign... Also the Mauryan Empire onwards! Right up to the Scindia dynasty.
Till the Scindias. Yes, till the Scindias. A lot of dynasties have rules in this region.
A total of 16 dynasties have ruled here and you can see their footprints in this region. It is a big thing that 16 dynasties have ruled a single city. Even today, those dynasties show their presence through different means here. Was it the Mauryan dynasty that ruled Chanderi for the longest time? Not really! Was it Gurjar-Pratiharas then? Gurjar-Pratiharas ruled here for a long time.
In between, this region was also ruled by the Gupta dynasty. The Gupta Dynasty rule is also considered a golden period. It was a golden period, definitely! Medieval history! Yes! Now, let's visit inside. This is the Qibla wall, and the place where Imam stands and delivers speech... ...is called 'Khutba.' In a common mosque, you will see only three steps of the staircase.
A common mosque! If a mosque has more than three steps, you will know that it is a special monument. In a common mosque, namaz is offered 5 times a day while in a special mosque... ...namaz is offered on occasions like Eid or Jumma (Friday prayers). The Badal Mahal is literally next door! Yes! Come, let's go to Badal Mahal.
Entry ticket here is for Rs 25 per person! Please come! Oh wow! Nice! As I was a few steps away, all I could see was two pillars and a gate through them. Yes, the gate! Now that I have moved forward, the view is beautiful, no doubt! Yes! Along with that, this garden is also spectacular! Yes, the garden is there and this door is called "Badal Mahal Darwaza." This is the whole garden. Nice! Out of the whole Badal Mahal area, only this gate is left now. This is the only thing left of Badal Mahal now.
Where is Badal Mahal? That is nowhere now. Just the gate is left. Okay, it must be beyond the gate! It was located beyond the gate. This whole complex has been maintained very well. Very nicely! This complex.
This monument is looked after by the Archaeological Survey of India, that's why. This boundary wall must have been constructed later on. This wall was later on constructed to enclose this huge ground. How old is this gate? It belongs to the 15th century Sir.
All this was built during the 15th century, under the Khilji dynasty rule. Do you see this excavation? It was done during the year 2005. This shows the underground portion of this excavation. We are standing on the roof, while down below are the rooms. In the bottom layer, you will see more rooms on this side as well.
In all, we can see a lot of underground rooms in this city. This is one of those excavations, done in 2005 by the ASI. You mean to say that during the 15th century, basement rooms were popular in Chanderi? Yes, basement rooms! But these rooms were used occasionally.
Say, in case of an enemy attack, women, children and older people were sent here. These rooms were also used to hide valuables or to escape the summer heat. But, the point is that there are a lot of such rooms in the city. Are there lots of such rooms? There are a lot, some of which you can see here too. You know I am enjoying the view from up here better than what it was on the ground.
Absolutely! Now that we are at a height, everything is clearly visible. Moreover, we are also able to see the Fort clearly. Yes, you are right! We are staying at Hotel Kila Kothi of Madhya Pradesh Tourism.
Kila Kothi is right in front of us Sir. That is the Kothi and next to it is the Qila (Fort). I was told it is at a height. Is it the whilte building? Yes, the white building is your hotel. That is where the light and sound show is also organised.
Yes, that is where it takes place. Alright, so it would be convenient to attend that. Yes! While travelling from Badal Mahal to our hotel, we stopped at a dhaba on the way.
We had tea there. We fixed tomorrow's meeting time with Kalle Bhai. After that, we left for our hotel. We are staying at a property of M.P. Tourism called 'Kila Kothi.' M.P. Tourism has another resort here. Tana...what is its name?
Tana Bana...I saw that property on the way here. We are staying at the Kila Kothi. This place was highly recommended to us for its comfortable stay.
Now, I can't show much since it is dark, still trying to show you around this property. The Fort is at walking distance from here. We need to leave in 10-15 minutes to catch the 7.30 PM light and sound show. The show is at 7.30 PM and it is 7.15 PM already.
Let me show around the room as we also put in our luggage. Please come! We've climbed to the first floor. Look at the view! It is different. Amazing! Kila Kothi is built atop a hill. There are more hills visible in the distance, even though it is dark around us.
This is the Chanderi city. Come, let's go into the room! Our room is on the first floor. Its tariff is Rs 6400. There is another room on the ground floor, which is almost of the same size. That room's tariff is Rs 5350.
These are dynamic tariffs, so they keep fluctuating. This tariff includes taxes and complimentary breakfast. The bathroom is on this side. The bathroom is also spacious, good! Now, we need to leave for the light and sound show. We will get ticket for the show from the hotel itself. (Narration) I am back at Kila Kothi after watching the show.
The venue of the show is hardly at a 2-minute walking distance. The complete programme lasted for about 35-40 minutes. I really liked this presentation. In a very short time, it spoke of the whole history of Chanderi, its dynasties,...
...that rules here over the centuries. The show begins with a presentation called 'Tana Bana.' Chanderi is famous for its silk fabric. Then comes a presentation titled 'Khooni Darwaza.' It tells the history from the beginning, with the birth of Shishupal (Lord Krishna's cousin).
This gives us an idea of how ancient is Chanderi. The next presentation talks of the key incidents during the 1000-year old history. This Fort was constructed under the reign of Kirtipal, a famous ruler of Pratihara dynasty. One of the presentations is based on his life.
There is also a mention of another local ruler, Madini Rai, who fought for Rana Sangha. In fact, Rana Sangha also supported Madini Rai in return. To be honest, I had no idea about a ruler named Madini Rai. Here, I learned that he was in the same league as Raja Chhatrasaal. Madini Rai and Rana Sangha fought side by side against Babar. But Madini Rai isn't able to defend Chanderi against Babar.
That is when the Mughals entered Chanderi. Overall, it was a good presentation. They've presented a good amount of history in a very short time. The presentation speaks of Baiju Bawara, Chanderi being his birthplace & resting place both. I just remembered that.
Now, we will end today's journey here. We will meet again tomorrow. Tomorrow, we will visit the Fort and other local sightseeing points and... ...in the second half, we will leave for Sanchi. That's our programme for tomorrow. So, it is good night for now. Good morning! Right now, we are standing outside our hotel. The scene that I saw this morning at 5 AM was mesmerising.
But I couldn't shoot a proper video as I got busy getting ready for the day. We thought of shooting later but ended up missing that golden moment of morning. But still, we got some footage for ourselves. I am showing you the whole Chanderi city standing atop the first floor of Kila Kothi. There aren't houses spread out like this only in its front. The city is spread around in all directions of this hilltop.
There are a lot of houses behind this hill too. So, one can say that as of today, the Chanderi Fort is located in the heart of the city. Can you see the white-coloured Jain Temple in the distance? Just behind it is the 'Raja-Rani' Mahal. You can see it from here.
That is the Raja-Rani Mahal. Let me tell you more! Do you see the green curtain put up in front of the white structure? Right next to that curtain is a building that looks very old. That is said to be the birthplace of Baiju Bawra. Basically, Baiju Bawra was born there. We are familiar with the names of musical giants like Tansen and Baiju Bawra. Yesterday's light and sound show also talked about this place.
Now, let's do one thing. Our luggage is at the hotel. We are going to visit the Fort. Once we are back from the Fort, we'll pick our luggage, do local sightseeing and...
...end our day in Sanchi. Let's go. Kalle Bhai, I feel that,...though we aren't very late today,... Yes! ...but I feel that if visiting Chanderi during summer, you should start your day at 6 AM. Absolutely! Because all the ASI monuments open for visitors at sunrise. Yes! So, you can enjoy the leverage of the cool weather in the mornings. Yes! It is ok! The time is 7.30 AM.
Yes! You were on time this morning! Yes! We were late instead. Since it rained yesterday, the sun isn't as harsh as it usually is. Otherwise, it would have been difficult to travel.
Alright! Is this the entrance? Yes, this is the entrance. We have reached the Chanderi Fort. This is the whole campus. This monument is special for being one of the biggest and oldest forts in Central India. King Kirtipal got this Fort built during 1018.
Kirtipal belonged to the Gurjar-Pratihara dynasty. Yes, that is where you find his reference. The purpose behind building this Fort? It is built upon a centrally located hill from where you can look 20 KM in every direction. This is the reason for its strategic importance.
Its importance is also because it was used to keep an eye on the North-South Highway. This Fort continued to play the role of a sentinel from 1018 to 1858. Its role ended after that. Did the king hold court here? Yes, he did. Although, it used to be occasionally.
Because there was the royal palace too. However, the king used to visit here for leisure, like sitting at the sunset point. He could enjoy the natural beauty around him, the city view, and the flowering plants. He also used to enjoy the sounds coming from the jungle.
The place, which we are visiting now,... ...it is the Khilji mosque dating back to the 15th century. I was watching in some video... ...that designs like these are created on Chanderi sarees. Yes, because you need hundreds of designs for Chanderi sarees. Such carvings are converted into patterns and woven into the saree borders. I've seen that.
Alright. We are also going to watch today how the Chanderi saree is woven. Sure, we will.
These are beautiful carvings. And this is called the 'Chanderi Viewpoint.' From here, we can... ...watch the surroundings. Naturally.
Right! See this view! It is a view from a different angle. Yes, different angle. That is a pond in the distance! Yes, there are, in fact, 7 ponds visible around us. These ponds are covered with lotus flowers. In a month's time from now,...
...the green surface of the ponds will turn pink from all the lotus flowers. On this side, you'll see a building here. This is 'Caravan Sarai'. It is a camel stable.
Alright! How old is this building? These belong to the 15th century and there were 360 such buildings. So, you are saying it used to be a camel stable earlier? Yes, traders used to park their camels here. Now, where are we going next? Now, we are going towards Khooni Darwaza! (Blood-ridden door) We will walk on this path now. This is where we watched the light and sound show last evening. Alright, yes! The show was good. Yes, the show is very good.
We have reached the 'Khooni Darwaza' now. This gate wasn't called 'Khooni Darwaza' earlier. But when Babar attacked Chanderi in 1528... .. ruler Madini Rai and his men were on top of the gate while Babar & his men were below. Our army pelted so many stones on Babar's army that the blood flowed into the city.
Since then, it came to be called 'Khooni Darwaza.' Beyond this gate is a large pond that is known as "Jauhar Talaab.' About 1500 Rajput queens, queen consorts and noble women sacrificed their lives...
...in this pond to protect their modesty from the attackers. Ibn-e-Batuta was a Moroccan traveler on a visit to India. In his travel account, he speaks of having seen a huge temple on the Chanderi port. He says if one were to blow a trumpet with all his might inside the inner sanctum there,... ...not a sound would be heard outside. What he means to say is that...
...the architecture of those times created sound-proof buildings. Although that site doesn't exist anymore, only its memories exist. The ruins of that temple are lying next to this pond. However loud a trumpet you may blow inside the inner sanctum, it won't be heard outside. Yes, that was the case! Now, we are going to visit the samadhi of Baiju Bawra. Baiju Bawra was a renowned musician (in Medieval India).
And Tansen was his contemporary. Tansen! Which 'Raga' he used to sing after which it would rain? He sang 'Raga Malhar' after which the sky would get cloudy and it would start raining. He also sang another raga, 'Raga Deepak.' With it, he could light up lamps too. And these two musicians were competitors too! Yes they were. You must have heard that both Tansen and Baiju Bawra...
... were the disciples of Swami Haridas ji... Of Vrindavan! ...of Vrindavan! They had learned music from him. Since they were classmates, they often competed with each other. The Samadhi of "Sangeet Samrat Baiju Bawra." I told you already that he was a renowned musician. This is the 'Jauhar Monument' and it has a chasm behind it. When Babar attacked the city, 1500 women committed mass suicide in this chasm.
Yes! They committed Jauhar before Babar's army could enter the city walls. Yes, so that they could protect their modesty. They didn't want to be caught and defiled by the enemy. They committed Jauhar to protect their modesty.
This monument represents just that. We have now reached the end point of the Fort visit. This Fort is quite expansive. You can go for a detailed visit if you want to. But we have visited the main spots and learned about its history. The Kila Kothi, where we are staying, is not far from the Fort.
We will pack our luggage. Then we will go for local sightseeing. First, I have to visit the temple that is the 'Shaktipeeth.' I also want to meet the weavers. Okay! We will plan accordingly.
Sure, once we climb down the hill, we will start with a visit to Shaktipeeth. After travelling for 2 KM from Kila Kothi, we've come to visit the Jageshwari Devi Temple. It is a famous Shaktipeeth. To be honest, I had no prior knowledge that there was a Shaktipeeth in Chanderi. We came to know of it now.
We will climb these stairs to the top of the temple. We'll have darshan at the temple and also learn the temple's history from the priest. (Devotional song) Once inside the temple, we had the darshan of Mata Jageshwari Devi. We have the Pujari ji (priest) with us now. Jai Mata Shri Jageshwari Devi Ji! Jai Ma Jageshwari! For the last 10 minutes, I was talking to Pujari ji about this temple's significance. So, I want to learn a few things from you.
There are many Shaktipeeths around the country, where different body parts of... ...Mata Sati fell at different places, lending significance to each Shaktipeeth. Which of Mata's body part fell at this place? Her face! Face! Mata's face fell here! Are there 51 or 52 Shaktipeeths in the country? 51 in India! One is in Pakistan, so the total number is 52. Yes, 51 in India but including Pakistan, there are 52. Yes, the Hinglaaj Shaktipeeth is in Pakistan. I was told that Mata also gave darshan to the King here.
Yes, there was one king Kurum Dev, who suffered from leprosy. Being a leper, and saddened by the absence of an offspring, he turned to hunting. He visited this area while on one of his hunting expeditions.
At that time, he drank water from this pond. As he drank water with his hands, his hands were cured. When he took a bath here, his body got cured too. Right then, he saw a divine girl, who disappeared in no time.
He saw that girl again in his dreams. She told him that he had earlier visited the place where I manifest myself. She directed him to build a temple dedicated to Bhagwan Shiv ji. She told him that she wanted to manifest herself at this place. The king's advisors tried to dissuade him by saying that dreams were a myth.
They asked the King not to trust his dream so much. They even challenged his belief that Ma Jageshwari Devi would appear again. Since the King had no child of his own, Ma appeared before him as a little girl.
Today, when that story is repeated, the King's name is taken along with the deity's name. So, it is like he became like a son to Ma. Isn't it great that despite being childless, the King's name continues in this world even today. It is because of Ma Durga that the King is remembered even today.
What is the name of the King in this story? Kurum Dev! Kurum Dev! Since Ma was visible to the King in 'Jagrat' (awake) state, she became Ma Jageshwari. This is the reason why Ma Durga came to be called Shri Jageshwari Devi here. Yes! Very nice! The face is the identity of the body.
The face grants the body its identity. And this is the place where Ma's 'Mukh' (face) is. You can see tree roots growing out of stones. What more proof do you need of Ma' presence? The true proof of the presence of a divine energy is right in front of you.
It is by the mother's grace that trees are growing out of stones. Whosoever comes and prays in front of Ma Jageshwari,... ...Ma calls him back two times more. So, you will also come back here, at least twice! It is guaranteed. Maharaj ji, through you, we could learn so much about this place's significance.
Of course, Harish ji! Thank you! You will have to come here three times. Now that you have told me, I will definitely visit soon. Alright! Thank you! Jai Mai ki! Jai Mai Ki! What is this whole complex called? We are at a famous destination in Chanderi, the Handloom Park! It is a joint venture of the Government of India and the Madhya Pradesh government.
This place showcases the work of the selected Chanderi artistes in the region. All the activities from pre-loom to post-loom are performed here. From pre-loom to... Post-loom! Yes! It includes selling too? Yes, it includes everything. Come, let me tell you why Chanderi handloom is so famous! I will tell you which threads we use in it and what are those called! This is the handloom.
Here you can see three types of threads. This white thread is called 'Warp' in English. In Hindi, it is called 'Tana.' This white thread is mulberry silk. Another silk variety is this blue colour. This is 'Digam' silk. It is silk thread but soft silk.
The third thread, you see here, is mercerised cotton. It comes from Bengaluru. This motif (Booti) of a single thread is the identity of Chanderi saree. In other sarees, you won't see continuous threadwork like this.
This is the only identity that has kept Chanderi alive untill this day. Alright! What happens in case of other sarees? In case of other weavers, they create a motif and then cut off the thread. If you pull at that thread, you can remove it completely.
If you pull at this thread here, it won't budge and that is what makes Chanderi different. I was also looking at some zariwork here. Yes, this is the zariwork.
In this day and age, an average man cannot afford original zari. Yes! This work done in the old days must be costing lakhs of rupees! Absolutely Sir! Because they used pure gold and silver. Those sarees could be afforded only by the members of the royal family. But we started using an artificial Zari in these sarees.
It looked like gold but wasn't gold. So, it was like you didn't have to pay the cost of gold, but could still enjoy its look and feel. So, the zari is shiny and durable, but it isn't as costly as gold. The material they weave here is displayed in the showroom nearby, which we can visit. The weavers would be pleased that we've come to look at their work! Come let's visit the showroom! Please come Sir! You are showing us these saree samples.
Let me also know their prices alongside. Like how much is this one for? The price of a Chanderi saree depends on the work that goes into making it. The rate is proportional to the work! Talking of this saree, it would cost Rs 16,000. This is all border work done in 'Meenakari.' The Chanderi work is special in that one thread continues till the end like this. One thing that I can't help but notice since past 5-10 minutes is that...
...these sarees are made on a slightly transparent fabric. Most of these sarees are on transparent fabric. Yes! This thread is called Denier, right? Yes, it is called Denier. How much Denier is this saree? It is usually 20-22 Denier. 20-22! Yes, 20-22. Very fine thread count! Yes, very fine! And all of this is silk work 'Meenakari.' This is Meenakari border! If you look closely, you will see 'Tota-Maina' (birds) woven into it.
This saree is for Rs 12,500 Sir! This! It is a pure silk saree. And it is called a 'Nakshi Border' saree! What is it called? Nakshi Border because this whole saree border is woven with Jacquard! Show me a couple of designs in suits (salwar-kameez) as well. This is the dupatta! And this would be the top! Top! And its bottom is right here. This! Alright! This here! Price! Its price is Rs 4200. Alright! Show me more! There is a two-piece variety as well.
This is a two-piece Sir. It doesn't have a bottom with it. Tell me the price.
It is for Rs 1850 Sir! It is in two-piece! It has work done in silver zari as well as golden zari. It comes without bottom! This is the top! Okay! This is the dupatta! Tell me its price! It is for Rs 4200 Sir! This is the dupatta and this is the bottom. Personally, I am thinking of buying this for my wife. What is its price? Rs 4200 Sir! 4200! I liked this one! So, give me the one suit that I selected. Anything else? I am also going to click some photographs to show to my wife.
Okay Sir! Now my choice and my wife's choice would be different. Of course Sir! We will spend 10 minutes selecting more and then get the billing done. Okay Sir! We have reached the place where we'll eat our lunch. So, you guys run a "Desi Rasoi" (Country kitchen) here? Yes Sir! How many years has it been since you started this venture? Sir, I started building this in the year 2015-16.
It had to take a break during the lockdown. Now it is back on track? Yes, now I am going to restart it. And I have started serving food to people. Very good! To people like you! Alright! Yes! Very good! Come, let's go into your Desi Rasoi! But first, you've to tell me something because we reached here through lot of effort. There is no proper road to reach this village. Our car is here but you need to tell us where we are actually.
I know that there is a guest house of M.P. Tourism called 'Tana-Bana.' We passed it on our way! We are in Khanpur. Khanpur! We are about 200-300 meters from 'Amarai.' From where? Amarai Resort Sir! It is run by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism. Yes! Amarai! Yes! So, we can take Amarai as a landmark! It is 300 meters from there? Yes Sir! You can also come here on foot Sir. Okay! We asked you to come by car because it is hot right now No, no, it is okay! There is Craft Village Pranpur, which is near by, so we have two landmarks here.
One is Amarai Resort and the other is Craft Village Pranpur. Got it. It is a wonderful set-up. You didn't write to me its full name.
"Laut Chalo Gaon, Deshi Bhojan!" Very good! Our lunch here is already ready! We had already placed our order 3 hours ago. So, it is good! So, this is rice! This, you told me, is a chutney made with mango and tomatoes. Chutney! This is a dish made with raw mangoes. Kucha! Kucha! So this is not a pickle.
Not a pickle! Khurcha! This is Chhaachh! Chhaachh, very good! Kadhi! This papad is made with rice flour? Yes Sir! And this Dal is? Urad Dal! Urad Dal! Simple! Simple means? Made in typical Bundelkhand style! Bundelkhand Dal! Yes! Just a little! Great! Should we have this before the meal? You can have it with the meal too. Alright! What goes into making this? It is called Barra. The dish you have made with Chhaach and Barra, what is it called? Sir, it is Chhaachh basically, with Barra dipped in it. So, Barra-Chhaachh! You can call it that. It doesn't need to be cooked separately.
It is different! Delicious! The Chhaachh that you have used to make this dish... ...was it made traditionally? Yes, it is made the traditional way. We don't get to enjoy this taste in the cities. It is absolutely traditional. Absolutely! Made in a proper way! Churned manually! It has a tempering of mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Yes! Wonderful! It also has mint! Mint leaves are crushed with a grinding stone and added to it.
Wow! This is totally different. I mean I can say I have never had Chhaachh like this before. Neither have I tasted a Barra like this before. I would like to have one more Barra. Very nice! Bhaiya, how do you make this Barra? Urad Dal! Soaked in water. In warm water.
You keep it like that for an hour or two. Then it is grounded on a grinding stone. Thus a paste is made. The paste is then given a shape with hands and fried in oil. Now, should I tell you something? I get what you are saying! I have never had a barra like this made with Urad Dal. The main reason for that is they have made a paste of Urad dal on a grinding stone.
Yes, on a grinding stone! That has changed the taste completely. Kalle Bhai, you brought me to the right place! I am enjoying the meal. Really beautiful! Let's taste the Dal now. It is different as well. Do you add anything other than wheat flour to it? No Sir! This roti is thick! Yes, it is made thick like a tikkad! Tikkad! I liked this Dal as well. The main thing is that...
...this taste is totally traditional, not like we get in the cities. And everything is local. What did you tell me its name was? Kucha! Good! This is Kachcha Aam! Is Kucha a famous dish here? Yes! Raw mango served with spices. Mint, cumin seeds and salt! What do you use to make Kadhi? Mathha? Yes! High level of simplicity! We often cook Kadhi at home, at least once a week. But that is Punjabi Kadhi. This is the Kadhi of Bundelkhand.
Both are different! Moreover, we don't have Mathha at home, so we use curd instead. Mathha is the right ingredient to use. That makes the difference! Then there is besan! In today's lunch, what did you find most delicious? I liked the taste of every dish Sir. The most simple and delicious was the Barra. Barra. No. 1! What do you have to say? For me, it is this mango chutney and Kucha! Kucha! I enjoyed both.
Alright! Yes! While eating a meal like this, I am constantly thinking in my mind about the best dish! Here, I don't have a No. 1 or No. 2, I liked everything! So, our overall food experience here is going great! I mean to say we are enjoying here and the place where we are sititng... ...it is hot outside. But inside, we don't feel the need for a fan. We will now finish our food and leave here. We have to visit the Laxman Temple. After that, we have to leave for Sanchi.
That is the programme, right? Absolutely. Done! I had introduced Hemant Bhai in our BTS episode but I think I forgot to do that here. Hemant Bhai was with us in Orchha.
He was with us during our visit to Orchha and Jhansi. Being a local, I had requested him to join us as it would be a great help to us. Moreover, he also knew Kalle Bhai, so that made our trip planning easier. Yes! Very nice! Now, we will meet again in a short while once we finish this food and leave.
We are near the Laxman Temple. It is written that one of these monuments is dedicated to Bharat Shah Bundela. Yes! Tell me more about this Bundela King. There was a ruler of Chanderi named Ram Shah.
His son was Bharat Shah. Alright. Ram Shah had a younger brother Bir Singh Bundela. I have heard his name when...
Yes, he is the king who got made the Jehangir Mahal for Jehangir's one-night stay. I remember that. Yes! Bir Singh Bundela was a very good friend of Jehangir.
But he was younger in age to Ram Shah, so his dream was... ...to take over Orchha and rule there. So Jehangir replaced Ram Shah with Bir Singh as the king of Orchha and... ...to him he gave Chanderi. Yes, Chanderi. So, this is his memorial. It is his son's memorial. Alright. It is his son, Bharat Shah's memorial, who ruled between 1642 and 1654.
This temple is quite ancient. But this temple was renovated and beautified was done in 18th century by King Aniruddh. His memorial is visible to our left. This memorial belongs to King Aniruddh. It was the Bundelas who started the practice of building memorials like these.
I remember you showed me such a memorial in Orchha too. You also saw the memorial of Maharaja Chhatrasaal in Chhatarpur. Such memorials were built after a ruler's death.
There is another memorial built on your right. This Laxman Mandir is built next to a pond. It was renovated in the 18th century. So, you mean to say that the temple was already there but it was then reconstructed. Yes, the temple was there but new portions were also added to it.
This temple is built as per purely Bundelkhand architecture. This is the temple? Yes! You can see the Mehrabs and palanquin arches. Somewhere in it, you will also see the Indo-Islamic domes. We went ahead earlier to enter the temple but...
...the temple remains closed in the afternoon. The temple door was closed. The temple would reopen at 4 or 4.30 PM. So, we've come back to this point. This is a pond. You see the temple, please tell us more about when it was originally built? I mean apart from when it was reconstructed. This temple is believed to belong to the Gurjar-Pratihara dynasty.
Their dynasty is believed to have ruled from 7th to 11th century. Pratihara means one who is pain reliever for the public. And Laxman Ji has been given the title of Pratihara. Gurjar-Pratihara were the devotees of Laxman Ji.
That is the belief. That is what people believe in. That is how this temple of Laxman Ji came to be built here. There is a folktale popular across Chanderi about the idol inside the temple. Once upon a time, a few merchants were passing by here. They came across an idol of Laxman Ji, which seemed to be self-manifested.
The merchants tried to pick up that idol. But, even 8-10 people could not budge that idol from its place. Eventually, they set up that idol at the same place where it was found.
I just remembered that I have read about it somewhere. It is also mentioned in the live show here as well as people talk of it in history too. I have read about it. Today, this pond is famous as "Parmeshwar Talab."
This temple has been built next to this pond. Laxman ji is worshipped in this temple, which was constructed by Pratiharas and... ...reconstructed by the Bundelas. So, we can say this temple was constructed between 8th and 11th century originally. We could say that because Gurjar-Pratihara rulers were followers of Laxman ji.
By just looking at this place, I can say it needs more maintenance. If they clean up this pond as well, this place will attract more tourists. We are going to finish our today's episode here.
And this is where I will say thank you to both of you. Let me also say thanks to you! My best wishes to you. Thank you for especially taking time out and coming here. Nice! Rest, we will now join you once we reach Sanchi. We are in Sanchi till first half tomorrow. Tomorrow's night stay, we are planning to do in Bhopal.
That is our plan for the next 24 hours. Bye-bye to you now! Thanks for your time!
2024-06-27 08:53
