Die Kykladen in Griechenland: Von Milos bis Santorini | WDR Reisen
Subtitles: Hessischer Rundfunk * Music * Spectacular, fascinating and diverse. Fun-loving, cosmopolitan and simply exceptionally beautiful. This is the Cyclades. This Greek island world is located in the southern Aegean Sea between Athens and Crete. It is very easy to experience.
An island hopping journey to imitate. Starting point is Santorini. 3,600 years ago a massive volcanic eruption tore the island apart. ♪ Living on the edge. ♪ Santorini is the exact opposite of an insider tip.
Nevertheless, the island is pure myth. The whole world wants to stroll on the volcano or what's left of it. The hotspot of Instagrammers is Oia. Here you stand in line for a very specific photo. 20 minutes already. - Yes. Have you ever queued for a photo? No, not yet.
Whether the long wait was really worth it and what exactly is being photographed millions of times, more on that later. If you want to really experience the spectacular crater basin of Santorini, you should hike on it. A breathtaking hiking trail runs from Fira to Oia. 10 km long, running time around three to four hours. It's not exactly strenuous and it's damn warm from below.
A bit like underfloor heating in summer. No hotter than the streets of Manhattan either, say Akhil and Lynn from New York. The two have been traveling for hours. The hiking trail here is a cult, you have to do it when you are here on the island.
I think it's the best way to see as much of Santorini as possible. The views from up here are just amazing. You see so much of the island in half a day! No matter how hot and glisteningly bright it is, nothing works here without photos.
Santorini is a real world stage. Do you take pictures for Instagram? - Yeah sure. That was the reason we do the hike here. * Music * Back in Oia, the most famous photo spot in Greece. The closer the sunset, the longer the lines. It was more relaxed here 30 years ago.
So I went to all these places. There were hardly any people here. It has changed enormously. It's gotten tiring. Beautiful, but very tiring. But now: The blue church domes, the world-famous postcard motif of Santorini. I'm not the Instagram user my daughter is, but I'm learning. An hour queue, 30 seconds quick shoot.
Are you satisfied? - Yes. It's important these days, let's put it that way. Now make room for the next ones. The blue sea, it's the colors. It's just so magical. The white houses with the blue domes, that's why the photo.
* Music * It was clear to these two that their wedding photos had to be taken in Santorini. Moe and Kim from Tokyo have been waiting for this for two years. This is my dream. I've dreamed of this since I was a child. I'm so incredibly happy. I'm speechless. Weddings are an important industry in Santorini.
This year has been really good after the bad pandemic years. Getting married again on Santorini. I estimate that we have around 1500 weddings this year. Nowhere else are so many wedding nights spent as on Santorini.
The cave villas on the rim of the crater: Formerly the houses of the simple people of Santorini, today the most expensive address on the island. If you want to stay here, you have to book early and pay a lot. Evi manages some of the coveted Cave Villas in Oia. In my opinion, the magic of the island is the view, the view you have here.
You won't find anything like this anywhere else. The energy of the island is also very special. The exciting beauty here has to be seen to be understood.
In the high season, Evi is fully booked. Even in the low season you have to be lucky to be able to enjoy this view. You have to reckon with 500 euros per night for such a cave room.
The villa I just showed you is a typical cave dwelling. Since flat land is rather scarce here, people carved their houses into the steep crater walls. Of course, there are no windows in such cave rooms. This is very typical and normal for Santorini.
Why do we need windows here? That's right, the caldera is one big window. And everyone wants to look through this window when the sun goes down on Santorini. Every little spot, no matter how small, is used for this, terraces are rented out for a lot of money, it is no longer possible to get through.
One wonders how this small place on the brink can withstand these crowds. And then there is an insider tip. Fair trade at a small craft shop overlooking the sunset . If you buy a souvenir from the artist here, you can relax and enjoy the sunset with plenty of space and a glass of wine. I don't want to join in the madness.
It should be relaxed here. I don't want crowds here, no stress. We have to take care of the island and not overwhelm it. * quiet music * * cheers, applause * If you don't know Santorini and suddenly only the emergency lighting is on all over the island due to a power failure, it's a really strange feeling.
But when visibility suddenly gets worse and there is a strange wind, you suddenly realize that you are sitting on an active volcano that could very well erupt again. *wind* It was just fog that cleared the next morning. The vines, wine grows on the volcanic island, are green and plump, as if it had rained all night.
But there is no rain here in summer, and neither is there irrigation. Nevertheless, Santorini is the oldest wine-growing region in Greece. Argyros Winery is the oldest and largest on Santorini. The winemaker family owns vines that are over 100 years old.
The island of Santorini was spared from phylloxera. We have been struggling with the same problems on Santorini for 3,600 years : strong winds, intense sunshine and lack of water. Our happiness is the evaporation of the water in the crater basin. This produces thick fog that covers the whole island at night. And also the wine that needs moisture so badly.
The exceptionally low vines are braided together flat on Santorini. We use a unique technique called "Kulura". Translated, this means: "wooden basket".
The grapes grow inside the basket. They are sheltered by the leaves and protected from the strong wind and harsh sunlight. Also, this leaf screen absorbs the moisture at night that comes with the night fog. What a sophisticated technique! Santorini clearly has more to offer than just photo and sunset crowd hotspots. The best view of the volcanic crater rim is almost all to yourself at Caldera Beach. Here the world is still in order, no rush, no smartphones, everything is very calm.
The beaches are not the main attraction in Santorini, although this is a really great beach. It's the architecture, these white houses, it's just unique. With a length of 18 km, Santorini is quite manageable. Ideal, therefore, to discover as many corners of the island as possible in just a few days. If you like it really authentic, you have to go to Pyrgos,
a charming village in the center of the island. Unbelievable that at the same time only 10 km away in Oia there would now be no way through. Babis and Maria were born in Pyrgos and of course they get married here. This is definitely the best day of my life. * quiet music * contrasting program at the port of Santorini. From here you can go to almost every Cyclades island, with big, small, fast and slow ferries.
Rule of thumb: the faster, the more expensive. Our journey goes to Milos, the westernmost Cyclades island. Two hours of speedboat travel, and it's so fast you're only allowed to sit inside. For being one of the top 10 islands in the world according to American Travel magazine, Milos is surprisingly quiet, at least in the off-season.
The most famous islander is definitely her, the Venus de Milo. Yes, it comes from here. Even if she is celebrated as a superstar in the Louvre in Paris, she was once found here on Milos by a farmer. The Greeks definitely want the real Venus back. The fishing village of Klima is not quite as famous as Venus.
The Syrmata, small fishermen's cottages right on the water, can be rented. However, you are never alone here. A steady flow of tourists passes the houses every day. Beate was actually looking forward to quiet contemplation, but somehow it's also exciting to watch people.
It really annoyed us in between. But then we realized that it's also interesting to experience it from a different perspective. If we're honest, we would have walked through and taken photos, it's nice.
But the residents all close their doors because when everyone takes pictures in the living room, it's really annoying. Milos is not only beautiful, but also very rich. The inhabitants call their homeland "Island of Colours" because the volcanic origin lets the earth here shimmer in all colors of the rainbow. And why rich? The economy is booming on Milos, special rocks are found here that are also important for Germany. Perlite, for example, a volcanic rock that is used as granulate for interior insulation.
Germany alone imports a good 100,000 tons from Milos every year. While everything on the other Greek islands depends on tourism, on Milos around 40 percent of the people make their living from the mining business. This is perhaps one of the reasons why Milos and its inhabitants are so extraordinarily easy-going and cool. Bartender Stefanos and his "Mosaic Bar" in Milo's main town of Plaka are a good example. Even though Milos has become more and more touristy in recent years, the island has remained old-fashioned, but in a good way.
Milos has retained a certain originality. Tourists are welcome, but not everything is restructured for them. Milos remains Milos. The island can afford that because of its stone deposits. Bartender Stefanos appreciates the special atmosphere on his island. The whole Greek mood comes together here on Milos.
Very important: the relaxed sitting together in the taverns or kafenions. And above all, talking and discussing about topics that interest us. Modernize yes, but don't cut the roots, Milos does that really well. In Café Pratigos, the pensioners are in a really good mood. The coffee here is excellent and Maria bakes a traditional specialty of the island fresh every day: watermelon cake, yes, that's what they do! Milos is famous for its sweet watermelons, says Maria.
There was hardly anything to eat on our island during the war. The only thing we had in abundance was our watermelons. That's how we invented the watermelon cake. Simply mix flour, sugar, honey, cinnamon and watermelon pulp, put in the oven for 45 minutes and the cake is ready. And it tastes so delicious! Firopotamos is another example of the easygoing nature of the island of Milos.
The fishermen generously share the natural dock, which is more beautiful than any pool, no matter how large, with all who come. Many a fisherman also rents out their cottage. Below the fishing boat, above the sleeping places and a terrace with an absolute dream sea view. It is absolutely authentic here, so no luxury apartment in the guise of an old fisherman's house.
We don't want that here. If you live here, you live here as a local, so to speak. Milos is diverse. In the north of the island there is even a lunar landscape: Sarakiniko.
With lively spectator participation, the brave jump into the depths here every second . This is an incredibly great place, there's something for everyone. Various activities for the elderly and for the young: the fun here. What makes Milos special is clearly the volcanism that created this. A truly unique landscape.
Over time, bizarre structures have been washed out of white ash deposits, which appear really unreal, a bit like one imagines other planets. Alica and her sister Issy are on fire. The two come from one of the most spectacular islands in the world. But they've never seen anything like this before. It goes without saying that the two New Zealanders jump from the highest point. When I looked down, I was a bit scared, you have to tense your body really hard, pure adrenaline.
Adrenaline also for Ignacio, the father of the two. He shall record the leaps of the two for eternity. Did he teach his daughters to cliff jump? No, no, they just jump, they both taught me. Aren't you scared? - Yes, I do.
But once you jump off, you fly. That was the highest jump I've ever made. I jumped a lot in New Zealand, but it was definitely the highest.
Three days per island might be a bit too short. You should plan at least five days for Milos. The next ferry crossing goes via Naxos and Paros to one of the smallest and most unknown Cyclades islands: to Koufonisia.
Island hopping is really easy. Only in the high season do you have to book the tickets in advance. Otherwise you can also travel spontaneously. Koufonisia are actually two islands: the inhabited and the uninhabited part. Together they are called Koufonisia, individually Koufonissi.
The attraction here is the incredibly clear sea and beaches. This is Mihalis, an islander who is out and about every day in summer with his flagged kayak and loud rock music. This is my favorite football team, AEK Athens. It was also my late father's favorite team. That flag there, you should actually know that. This is my absolute favorite band: Rammstein.
I really liked the singer's voice. It was love at first sight. Well, not at first sight, at first hearing. But it was really exciting. Mihalis is so fascinated by music that he founded the first Greek Rammstein fan club. Koufonissi is his first love, he grew up here.
Everyone knows him here and he knows every corner of the small island. If you arrive here by boat, you can see the whole island at a glance. This is Koufonissi, a small dot on the map. The people here are uncomplicated and natural.
I wish that it stays that way, despite the fairly young tourism on our island. Okay, it won't be the way it used to be. But that's okay. The island cannot cope with more tourism. * atmospheric music * On Koufonissi you walk.
There are no car or scooter rentals, nor are there sunbeds or umbrellas on the beach. The naturalness and relaxation of the island are impressive. * atmospheric music * Giorgos Mavros travels from bay to bay with his taxi boat every half hour . For 10 euros you can let him drive you all day, get on and off whenever you want.
Koufonissi is a feel-good island. The unusual welcome culture also impressed the Liechti family from Bern. Pretty brave to travel to a 4 square kilometer mini island in a campervan. The Greeks are incredibly hospitable. At this place we went to the tavern on the first evening, drank a beer and asked them if it was okay for them if we stayed here for a day or two. That wasn't a problem at all.
We were often offered an open door during the night and offered help if something was wrong. We can open the white gate over there and then we're in her garden. It's mostly a very welcome mood. And that's how it is everywhere on the island.
* happy music * Dimitris built the first tavern on the island almost 50 years ago on one of the most beautiful beaches of Koufonissi . He wanted to create a place to party with friends. That's how he met Andreas from Berlin, who was looking for a place to sleep. The two have been best friends ever since. *happy music* * Dimitris speaks in Greek. * He originally did this for himself here, the business here. To celebrate.
But whoever came by and was sympathetic, he invited. He bought him a beer or water, so Greek hospitality. * Dimitris speaks in Greek. * At that time there was no tourism here.
That was just Greek hospitality. Even if tourism on the island is still relatively young, Koufonissi is well equipped in terms of restaurants. Dimitri's tavern is famous for its super-fresh fish.
It goes without saying that the chef is also in the kitchen himself! On this small island, tradition and modernity go hand in hand. * calm piano music * In the popular "Sorokos Bar" not only the sunset is particularly beautiful. New, but not long, paths are also being taken in culinary terms. Island products are used as much as possible , but fusion cuisine is still popular here.
This is the famous Dakos. But we have our very own recipe here. The traditional Dakos is made with barley rusks, feta cheese and tomatoes.
Here we make a tomato pesto from the island's cherry tomatoes and instead of feta we use xinomesitra cheese, a kind of ricotta. Pickled caper leaves come on top, of course also from the island. This is our gyro variant, but instead of meat we use locally caught mackerel with coleslaw, served in a kind of taco. So a combination of many food cultures and still regional. Here is clearly cooked with a lot of Koufonissi love.
* Calm piano music * What a beautiful end to the day Our Rammstein fan and romantic Michalis also enjoys his sunset tour. * Rock music * The Chora, the main town on the island, is manageable. Mihalis shows us one of his favorite spots: the island's only bakery. Residents come here all year round to drink their coffee and have a bite to eat. Everything is freshly baked here every day: handmade Kouffonissi.
There is something different every day. You smell the bakery in the morning no matter where you are on the island. I loved it so much as a kid. Mihalis looks different from his fellow islanders and he listens to different music than they do, but he still belongs.
Everyone knows everyone here. And whether it's a mohawk haircut, tattoos or piercings: what counts here is the heart, the soul and whether you can rely on one another. I am me and therefore I am accepted here. Of course, at first they were irritated. But I'm not disturbing anyone.
And very important: I love this island! Saying goodbye to the smallest Cyclades island is difficult for us. Goodbye Kali Adamosi, Rakomelo. Kali Adamosi Koufonissi.
Let's go to our last island destination: To the easternmost Cyclades island to Amorgos, with 33 kilometers length one of the larger Cyclades islands. Amorgos is a spectacular beauty. The wild mountain landscape and the deep blue of the sea enchant at first sight.
"In the intoxication of the deep" - "le grand bleu": The cult film of the free divers by Luc Besson was filmed here. * lush beats * every time you hold your breath and be one with the sea, it's a feeling like being reborn. This special blue of the sea off Amorgos is every free diver's dream. But first let's go to heaven...
It's really close when you visit Asfontilitis, an abandoned mountain village in the north of the island. Sophia was born and raised up here, at the highest point of the island, and is the only one who still comes here every day to fire her stove with olive branches. After more and more hikers came by, I started offering water and coffee. Then at some point I thought I could cook for the tourists too. Very traditional, like my grandparents and parents did, in our old stone oven. That's how it all started up here.
Now anyone can call me and tell me how many people I should cook for. Sophia's stew is popular with hikers from all over the world. The recipe is an Armorgos classic: simple, but a real taste experience.
Tomatoes, paprika, salt, pepper, chickpeas and onions. The most important thing is to cover the stew with a thick layer of onions, lots of onions. So that the eyes water. Oh, and then there's the oil. Olive oil of course! A glass full of water, no, it has to be two full glasses. That's it.
Now the stew goes in the oven for at least three hours. In summer, Sophia is in her mountain kitchen every day from 8:00 a.m. to prepare everything. Pretty lonely up here. I love this quiet, the rough landscape and being alone. I grew up here, know every corner, and what should happen to me up here. We are on an island, everyone knows each other here.
What should I be afraid of up here? Around 2000 people live on Amorgos. Fishing, viticulture, olive oil and, increasingly, tourism, which has picked up speed since the 1988 diving film, are the island's main sources of income. The Chora of Amorgos is a very popular tourist destination and is said to be one of the most beautiful in the entire Cyclades. The oldest tavern in town is the Kastanis tavern, family-run since 1965. Antonis, the grandson of the founder, was away from the island once, but then came back.
If he has time and his friend Panaiotis comes over, there is typical Amorgian music. I have a very close relationship with this tavern. Because I was born right here, right in the middle of the tavern . The Amorgos love is a great love.
It's hard to part with the island, it casts a spell over you. Some also speak of a very strong island aura. Dimitris opened his diving center on Amorgos 5 years ago. His passion is free diving, i.e. diving without a compressed air bottle. Many divers come here to Amorgos because of the movie.
You really want to dive in the same place where the movie was filmed. Freedivers can hold their breath for up to 12 minutes, diving 120 meters with just one breath. A Frenchman holds this world record.
Dimitris is primarily concerned with the self-awareness that he wants to convey to his students. You must be completely relaxed when freediving. That's the most important! Your heart rate must always remain low. When you dive, let the sea call you. If you feel that the water accepts you, you can really dive very deep.
*mystical music* The freediving feeling is like a beautiful woman hugging you tightly. i love this feeling An almost iconic dive site is the one at the chapel "Agia Ana". This is exactly where Dimitris watched the filming of the diving film as a young boy . I was up there with my father.
Then, for the first time in my life, I saw divers in wetsuits. I knew then: I want to do this. Amorgos is one big energy field with breathtaking surprises.
The undisputed highlight of the island: the monastery of Chozoviotissa. Like an eagle's nest it sticks imposingly between heaven and earth, on a steep wall, high above the Aegean. The monastery is open to everyone, the dress code is strict: long skirts for visitors and long trousers for men.
That's law. The architecture of the monastery is fascinating: 8 storeys high, the rooms carved into the rock, built in 812 to protect an icon of the Virgin Mary. Father Spiridon has lived in this monastery for 50 years. This is the icon that everything revolves around: The Virgin Mary. That's why the monastery is here, that's why I'm here. But I want to show you something else: the chisel.
Right here, stuck in the rock face 300 meters above sea level. This chisel was God's sign to build the monastery exactly on this spot. The aura of this place is magical.
Father's too. The monastery is his place of power. The uniqueness of this landscape, the majestic position of the monastery, the deep endless blue, the merging with the sky: the most famous poets of Greece found their inspiration right here. Father Spiridon with his special energy, Sophia with her mountain kitchen or Dimitris with his freediving family. We met people in the Cyclades whose great love is their islands.
These heart people, the special light, the incredibly blue sea, the so different landscapes and the unforgettable sunsets: These are the Cyclades. Subtitle copyright: hr 2022
2023-03-25 20:29
