CORSICA TRAVEL DOCUMENTARY | 4x4 Road Trip on the Island of Beauty
Corsica From emerald pools of water to imposing granite peaks winding mountain roads and staggering coastlines Corsica's scenery is delightfully diverse Follow us on our journey as we explore the Island of Beauty Located in southern Europe, Corsica is the fourth largest island of the Mediterranean Politically it is part of France, however, the Corse have retained their own distinct identity Our road trip through Corsica started by leaving the ferry in Bastia the principal port town of the island. The city is most well known for its old harbor, which is located in a sheltered cove that offers excellent protection from the elements. Adjacent to the harbor, the old quarter can be explored on narrow alleyways We didn't linger in the city for long though as we started to head towards Cap Corse immediately Nicknamed the index finger of Corsica because of its elongated shape, the peninsula stretches north for 40 kilometers. Hugging the coastline, a scenic road provides travelers with mesmerizing vistas of the clear water and rugged scenery. Additionally, many a picturesque settlement can be found along the way One of these is Erbalunga, a quaint fishing village. Mirroring the universal spirit of the Mediterranean Erbalunga is very quiet in the mornings but awakens to life throughout the day The historic part of town is located on a small promontory that juts out to the sea.
Leaving the village behind, we followed the coastal road north driving through a colorful landscape dominated by hues of green and blue Some time later, we turned inland and soon found ourselves on a bumpy off-road trail. Corsica is often described as the wild island of the Mediterranean because it is known for both its very beautiful beaches that are easily accessible but also its extremely steep mountains which often can only be explored on tiny little off-road trails which is how we are starting our trip here in the north of the island The track we had embarked on was around eight kilometers long and characterized by its rocky surface and countless switchback turns While the trail wove its way up the mountain we were surrounded by densely growing evergreen shrubs Known as macchia or maquis this type of vegetation can be seen all around the Mediterranean After steadily climbing up for 30 minutes we slowly approach the Col de San Giovanni From the pass, we had a wonderful view onto the sea to the west as well as the surrounding peaks While we took a short breather, the clouds started to roll in which made the scenery even more intriguing Every time we drive on such a rocky off-road trail we lower our tire pressure significantly which helps us to smoothen out the ride as it increases our tire tread and it also helps us avoiding getting a tire puncture but of course now that we will be driving on tarred roads again we need to inflate our tires which we're about to do right now Back on the coastal road, it quickly dawned on us why Corsica is such a popular road trip destination. We drove as far northeast as possible and before long, arrived in a sheltered bay.
Continuing on foot, we followed the Sentiers des Duaniers a coastal hiking trail that provides scenic views of several Genoese towers These 16th-century coastal defenses were constructed by the Republic of Genoa to protect the island from Ottoman pirates. Back in the day, Turkish corsairs repeatedly attacked the Corsican coastline capturing hundreds of villagers and selling them as slaves Almost 100 Genoese towers were built around the island with around two-thirds still standing today As the day was drawing to an end, we set up camp and marveled at the spectacular sunset The next morning, we started out by visiting the remnants of a medieval castle A nearby convent of impressive size additionally highlights the former importance of the village Today, however, nature is slowly claiming back what has always been hers Several villages later, I started out on the northern section of the previous day's hiking trail Even though it was rainy, I did not want to miss out on visiting the northernmost point of Corsica Just a stone's throw away, another Genoese tower sits on top of a cliff Compared to the previous ones, this tower could even be explored on the inside With the weather getting increasingly moody, we continued to drive along the coast, experiencing an altogether different side of Corsica. Alas, the seawater lost some of its shimmering blue color but instead, the vegetation received some much-needed moisture Navigating the winding road with its narrow turns required a lot of concentration. This is especially true as oncoming traffic is often hidden from view and the Corse are rather fond of cutting across lanes Under such challenging conditions, one little mistake can easily prove fatal. Having completed our loop around Cap Corse, we arrived in the Nebbio. The name of the fertile region is derived from the Italian word for fog hinting at the regular presence of clouds in the area.
Unsurprisingly, the mountains were colored in a vibrant green Taking a break from all the driving, we sat down on the shore of a tranquil lake and simply listen to the sounds of nature A nearby church, offered as a truly unusual sight Built of green serpentine and white limestone blocks the design of the 13th-century church resembles a checkerboard The beach we are currently heading to is said to be very beautiful however, it is also rather hard to get to as there are no tarred roads leading there. Still, there remain three options on how to get there You can either take a hiking trail you can go by boat directly to the beach or you can go on an 11-kilometer-long off-road trail which naturally is the option we have picked The trail is said to be a bustling highway during summer but now, in May, it was still blissfully empty. Some parts of the road had just been graded posing no challenge whatsoever At other points though ditches, puddles and rocks provided us with more of an off-road feeling The GoPro however seemed to dislike that development and promptly abandoned ship Nearing the end of the trail, the puddles started to increase in size which made the driving even more fun At last, we arrived at the Plage de Saleccia a long sandy beach with incredibly turquoise water Glancing back, we looked upon the Désert des Agriates a 40-kilometer-long coastal strip which is almost entirely uninhabited Sometimes described as a stone desert with green oases, nature is left to its own devices in the treeless plain The majority of the vegetation is evergreen maquis but during Spring, many blooming flowers can be seen Additionally, the odd cactus makes for an interesting change of scenery Only a few off-road trails traverse the area one of which we took to a nearby beach While the beach was generally nice some parts of it had a bit of an algae problem Back on tarred roads, we headed west celebrating the return of the sun Spotting a little restaurant on top of the cliffs, we sat down for lunch, enjoying the beautiful scenery Meanwhile, a bird of prey was patiently circling above us Fully content, we set out to discover the small villages of the area The most well-known of these is Sant'Antonino also known as the Eyrie of the Balagne Sitting prominently on top of a hill the village provides sweeping views of the surrounding landscape Early the next morning, we set out for a hike After walking the first leg of the trail together, we parted ways for the time being Anna's path let her through a mystical forest that was rich in bird songs My trail, on the other hand, led steeply uphill towards the summit of Monte Astu Since we started out down in the village, this dog has been following us and I'm not really a dog person so I'm a little bit out of depth here and it simply isn't listening to any commands and it simply won't go down anymore so I guess, I do have a companion on this stretch of the trail but it's of the dog kind It frankly seemed as if the dog had simply decided to adopt me as it wouldn't leave my side Around two hours into the hike, my canine guide and I arrived at a hut which provides shelter from the elements Following a little break, we continued up the mountain and soon came upon a meadow with some horses Their remains proved to be a veritable paradise for the resident dung beetle population On the final climb to the summit, my opposable thumbs came in rather handy Lacking just those, my trusty companion decided to abandon me for some other hikers As a result, I enjoyed the summit scenery all by myself Having acquired a taste for the mountains of Corsica we left the coast behind and headed further inland. Embarking on a narrow road, we drove up the Asco valley until we arrived at a peaceful campsite next to a bubbling river The following day, we decided to take things slowly In the mountains, it was still mildly chilly which begged for a warming morning coffee Driving all the way to the end of the road, we arrived in a mountain basin that is surrounded by majestic summits Setting out on a leisurely stroll, we walked through a scenic pine forest In the distance, the rugged peaks provided a fantastic backdrop Some of Corsica's highest mountains can be found in this area. Their bare rocky surface is an imposing site from far and wide We are currently looking out for moufflon, a wild type of sheep that lives in this valley There are only a thousand animals left on Corsica and they are rather elusive especially as they inhabit the high and steep ridgelines of this mountain but we will try to keep our eyes open and if we are lucky, we may spot a couple Indeed we did spot some moufflon in the dense forest below Other than the moufflon from the Middle East European moufflon are thought to be a feral subspecies of the early domestic sheep As herbivores, they feed on a wide range of plants including both fresh grass and dry tree bark Because the road into the Asco Valley is a dead-end we turned around and continued our journey in the Golo Valley further south With its tight turns above a rapidly flowing river the winding road through the valley was a scenic delight Occasionally though, traffic got rather heavy Equal to other mountain valleys of Corsica, the area is a hot spot for hikers who have countless trails to choose from I started off by walking through an enchanting forest on my way to Lac de Nino In case you're wondering, why Anna is not joining me on some of these hikes it is because she suffers from chronic hip pain which means that she cannot walk up these steep inclines for a long time but because we still want to capture all these beautiful sights and sceneries I'm doing these hikes alone while Anna will join me on the more gentle ones Along the way, I spotted some unusual nests in a pine tree As it turns out, these were built by the pine processionary moth a highly destructive species causing massive vegetation loss in coniferous forests Their name stems from their behavior to proceed through the woods in a nose-to-tail column Additionally, their hairs are very irritating for humans So I quickly removed myself from their presence Leaving the forest behind, the trail started to steeply climb up I'm not going to beat around the bush but this is strenuous stuff The trail leads up this rocky scree field and it's climbing steeply up right now so i'm properly out of breath but I'll try to push on as much as I can and then take a well-deserved rest at the top Eventually, I arrived at a plateau which provided me with glorious vistas of the lake and the snow-covered peaks in the distance Lac de Nino is of glacial origin and characterized by its meandering meltwater tributaries The lush meadow provides an interesting contrast to the bare rock of the surrounding mountains On our way to our campsite, we came upon a wild pig on the side of the road Corsica is well known for its herds of stray pigs and cattle that wander freely around the island Our highlight, was capturing the piglets suckling on their mother's teats in the process of which they caused proper turmoil While they undoubtedly look adorable these wild pigs are notorious for causing havoc in farmer's gardens as they dig up everything they can find Making use of the pleasant weather, we decided to prepare dinner in our handy outdoor kitchen In the meantime, the birds heralded the end of the day Heading out very early the next morning we drove up a steep gravel trail while the sun enchanted us with its soft golden light. All the way up, it was a challenge to stay focused as the surrounding landscape was utterly mesmerizing Towards the top, the trail got both narrower and progressively bumpy This only added to its captivating appeal though.
30 minutes after starting out, we arrived at the end of the trail. What a beautiful day it is. It's just past seven in the morning and I have started out attempting to climb Corsica's highest peak which is called Monte Cinto I'm saying attempting, not necessarily for lack of fitness but more so because there's still plenty of snow and ice up there and I guess, the chances of me actually succeeding in summiting the mountain are somewhere close to 10 percent but nonetheless i will try to get as high up as possible to enjoy the beautiful scenery and let's just see where the path will take me I quickly left the car behind and before long arrived at a shelter that sits within a monumental valley From there, the hiking trail started to climb uphill leading across a never-ending scree field Carefully stepping from one stone to another I slowly made my way towards the summit I have just crossed the 2000 meter altitude mark and so far there hasn't been any snow which is a great sign and makes me very hopeful that I will make it quite a bit up the top I can actually see the peak directly ahead of me and still a bit to go but i'm doing good here. After further gaining altitude a passage followed that required me to climb up a crevice More challenging, however, were the snowfields that started at around 2300 meters Using both hands and feet, I carefully scrambled up the snow I think this marks the final point of my climb for today I am at around 2500 meters and the summit of Monte Cinto is just behind me up there but I can't really get there even though the distance is just about 500 meters because on this side there's this large snow field and I don't carry any crampons or ice axes and on this side, there's a really steep abyss and as I don't want to fall to my death, I decided to just take a break here enjoy the beautiful scenery and then safely head back down again While I enjoyed a quick snack an inquisitive bird showed up clearly expecting me to share my food Sitting there on my mountainy throne all alone in a world of snow and rock I deeply felt the contrast of Corsica's landscapes One moment, the Mediterranean sun intensely warmed my skin while the next quick-moving clouds started to play a game of tag Surrounded by the brute force of the elements, I lingered for almost an hour watching nature's play unfold On my descent, I opted for a shortcut down one of the snow fields Climbing the subsequent rock ledges remained strenuous though It was then time for us to leave the tallest summits of Corsica behind At first, the road led us through some beautiful coniferous forests before the scenery opened up and massive granite peaks came into sight The road connecting the coast to these remote mountain valleys is a spectacular feat of engineering A popular stop along the way is the Spelunca gorge a river valley that is framed by commanding peaks Along a short walk, we spotted two lizards engaged in a biting battle Further down the trail, a picturesque Genoese bridge spans the river Continuing towards the sea, we soon found ourselves on a phenomenal stretch of coastline An especially striking view, opened up on the Gulf of Girolata Only accessible by sea or on foot, the former fishing village is a favorite destination for boat excursions While the views along the road were nothing short of spectacular oncoming traffic posed a bit of a challenge But with enough time on our hands, we had the luxury of taking things slowly which meant enjoying the vistas at our own pace Upon arriving at the highest point of the road we stepped out of the car to properly appreciate the scenery On the other side of the pass, we left the coastline behind and to our utter surprise soon encountered the first stretch of straight road in Corsica It did not take long however until we experienced a new traffic-based hiccup These goats had the steadfast confidence of someone who owns the road as they made zero attempts to move out of the way Having successfully escaped from the clutches of the goat army we walked across a scenic river The next day, we paid an early morning visit to the city of Calvi Aside from some pigeons, the old town was entirely deserted allowing us to explore the historic buildings all by ourselves Due to its small-town charm, Calvi turned out to be our favorite city on Corsica That sentiment was strongly aided by the view onto the crescent-shaped bay which the lower part of town is set in An even more formidable panorama opened up from the nearby Notre Dame de la Serra viewpoint Seeing the cliffs ahead of us, we already got excited for our trip along the coast however things developed much differently Unbeknownst to us, the Corsica GT was taking place on the very same day which resulted in the entire road being closed off for an array of horsepower strong sports cars That didn't dampen our mood though as we were mesmerized by the Gulf of Porto before long Next to its impressive sea vistas, the road also cuts through an area known as the Calanche Here, ruddy granite rocks dominate the scenery offering a great contrast against the green scrub and the intensely blue sea Several short walking trails provide access to a plethora of these oddly shaped rock formations which were skillfully crafted by the elements Once we had managed to not hit any tourists we continued to a nearby beach Along the way, we realized yet again that Corsica's roads are fond of creating unpredictable obstacles, whenever they can Having safely arrived at our campsite we made ourselves comfortable and enjoyed the view Along the jagged coastline of Corsica's west the Calanche is not the only beautiful sight At Capu Rosso, for example a Genoese tower scenically sits on top of a steep hill Falling almost vertically into the sea the 300-meter high cliff provides staggering vistas onto the surrounding bays But even without precipitous bluffs the coastline entices travelers to linger Sitting down at the Plage de Liamone we simply looked out onto the sea enjoying the gentle movement of the waves Soon after, we experienced the polar opposite of the coastline serenity Arriving in Corsica's capital Ajaccio on a Sunday at lunchtime was mediocre timing at best After having driven through half the town searching for a parking lot we decided that we had seen enough and promptly left the city behind Instead, we set up camp below some venerable cork oaks and simply relaxed in the hammock Having explored much of the north and west of the island, it was now time to push south Avoiding the major highway, we went on a little inland trip It did not take long until far-reaching views of the countryside opened up The winding road was one of the most scenic we drove in Corsica At some point, we turned off the tarred road and followed a little gravel track into the mountains Immediately, we noticed all the maquis blooming around us Similar to other off-road trails on Corsica this one didn't lead anywhere specific but simply offered a different and much slower way to experience the landscape Traveling back in time, we also paid a visit to Filitosa one of Corsica's most important prehistoric sites Other than some small caves and the foundations of old buildings Filitosa is most well known for its menhirs several of which are adorned with faces Not too long after, we ended up on a bumpy trail leading towards the beach of Roccapina Considered to be one of the premier beaches on Corsica it stands out because of its clear water and white sand Directly above the beach, travelers can also marvel at a Genoese tower and a mythical stone creature The Lion de Roccapina is a fascinating rock formation resembling the shape of a resting lion Many other beaches and bays in the area are equally as enticing Some of them, however, are a little overrun by cows Another early morning visit brought us to the town of Bonifacio While on first glance, Bonifacio seems to be no different than other settlements on Corsica it is truly singular Sitting on top of a 70-meter-high clip the city dangerously overhangs the precipice Other than the granite found elsewhere on the island the cliffs of Bonifacio are made up of white limestone which, with time, is eroded by the elements Due to its strategic position and its sheltered harbor the area has been settled for more than a millennium Looking onto the sea, we spotted the silhouette of Sardinia on the horizon which can easily be reached with a ferry As we explored the streets, we discovered a little bakery and decided to try out some local delicacies for breakfast No visit to Bonifacio would be complete without embarking on a boat trip Providing an altogether different view, the seaward journey is a great opportunity to experience the steep cliffs from below That way, we also gained an impression of the strategically placed defensive positions that were used to protect the harbour Marveling at the city from below we realized just how close to the edge some of these buildings stand Several nearby vantage points along the coast provide mesmerizing vistas onto this truly wonderful scenery With the temperatures continuously rising we decided it was time to cool off On our further way along the coast we passed this somewhat confusing shipwreck harbor before we turned inland again Leaving our vehicle along the side of the road, we followed an overgrown track that, towards the end, tested our climbing skills Our efforts were rewarded though, as we found a hidden series of water holes which we had all to ourselves With no one else in sight, we seized the opportunity to wash off all the salt from our previous swim One of the things that really delights us about Corsica is not just the Mediterranean and its beautiful beaches and water but even more so the little water holes that are somewhere tucked away in the forest and oftentimes really hard to access but those are the places where we can really enjoy ourselves in silence and tranquility Further up the road, we arrived at Lac de L'Ospedale a placid reservoir surrounded by an enchanting forest The lake sits within a granite mountain landscape that exudes a degree of calm The water level was so high that some of the trees along the shore were submerged Delighted by the serenity of the landscape we sat down on a fallen tree to enjoy our lunch Closely hugging the shoreline, we continued north until we crossed the dam soon after Aside from the reservoir, the surrounding landscape seems relatively dry on first glance However, there are remarkable exceptions One of these is Piscia di Gallo a 70-meter-high waterfall, that is accessible on an easy hike Not far away another easy walk leads through a fairytale-like forest with huge granite boulders and moss-covered walls Other than being a pleasant stroll, the trail also provides access to the Castellu di Cucuruzzu a megalithic cult site of the Torrean civilization The highlight of our visit in the area was laying eyes on the Bavella massif The granite towers are nicknamed the Dolomites of Corsica because of their distinctive shape A multitude of hiking trails allows travelers to discover the stunning landscape To avoid the crowds, we started early in the morning once more listening to the chatter of the birds while we walked uphill After some time we arrived at the Trou de la Bombe a fascinating hole in the rock that provides stunning views of the surrounding mountain massif Driving down from the pass, we soon found ourselves looking at several emerald waterholes Following a recommendation from our hiking guide, I embarked on a trail that followed the course of the river which, wearing sneakers, was as dumb an idea as it sounds It didn't take long until I slipped on the wet rocks and twisted my knee so this hike gets a thumbs down from us Sticking solely to firm ground the next day we walked to another set of waterholes which were at least equally as pretty The clarity of the water, made it look almost translucent Back on the coastline, we followed the straightest road of all Corsica in a northerly direction Our destination was the Étang D'Urbino a large coastal lagoon that has a long history of fishing and oyster farming Created by tectonic activity, this body of water is part of a string of lagoons along the eastern coast of Corsica. While calming in nature, the water close to the shore was somewhat yucky. Taking a little side road, we were soon surrounded by tall reed grass on a dusty offroad trail At the end of the track, we arrived at a deserted beach that beckoned us to go for another skinny dip Leaving the south of the island behind it was time for us to explore the center of Corsica Back on the by now well-known mountain roads we steadily continued inland Pausing at a lookout that was framed by a funny-looking tree we glanced upon yet another stunning river carving its way through the landscape In the distance the snowy peaks we were heading towards to already came into sight Driving up a road flanked by tall trees we arrived at a ski station from where a hiking trail leads up to Monte Renoso The first highlight of the walk was a lake sitting directly below the summit From there the trail climbed up towards a ridgeline which also included crossing a snowfield Not long after, the summit was already in sight Of the major peaks of Corsica, the climb to Monte Renoso is considered to be by far the easiest and I can well imagine why because on the way up, I didn't have to traverse a single scree field it was all just solid rocks and earth which is rather pleasant to walk on Nonetheless, this is still a strenuous hiking trail in its own right but it all becomes worth it as soon as you arrive at the summit and can marvel at the scenery On our following inland road trip we encountered many fascinating sights including calm lakes surrounded by dense forests, high waterfalls running down rock faces and derelict castles guarding picturesque landscapes Of course, we also couldn't miss out on a visit to Corte the only major town in inland Corsica With its steep alleys between slate-roofed houses Corte has developed into a major tourist destination The most important building is the citadel which towers above the town on a rocky outcrop Another great reason to visit Corte is that it provides easy access to the Restonica Valley A trip into this imposing vale is a highlight on any Corsica road trip Steep granite peaks, green forests, bubbling rivers and rumbling waterfalls compose the image of a primeval mountain landscape that transports visitors back in time It should be mentioned, however that travelers won't experience much alone time Needless to say, several hiking trails provide access to this remarkable landscape One of these mildly challenging walks, leads up to two beautiful lakes Even though the trail is steep, the scenery provides countless reasons to pause for a moment The lower of the two lakes is reached after around 90 minutes Those who haven't seen enough yet can continue uphill for another hour until arriving at Lac de Capitello Framed by rugged granite peaks, the lake is a perfect spot to linger and simply marvel at the view Looking across the lake, I also spotted some mountain climbers scaling the sheer rock face Others decided to hike up even higher which meant conquering a steep snowfield Because we truly enjoyed the spirit of the valley we set up camp underneath large pine trees and spent the next couple of days lounging in our hammock For the last leg of our journey, we drove along the unpredictable mountain roads one last time Along our way, we came upon a completely overgrown church To obtain a nice aerial perspective, I launched the drone and promptly parked it on a tree branch For the next 30 minutes, we tried to find it as we could hear it beep but didn't actually see it The reason was that it was well hidden on the highest branch of the tree At first, I tried to climb up but soon realized that this was hopeless as the tree was too overgrown After some time, we had the idea to attach our clothesline to a rock with which we intended to shake the tree Even though we pulled hard, the drone didn't move an inch The situation grew even more frustratingly comical when a local policeman pulled up and tried to help us by shooting down the drone with his air pistol After more than three hours of trying to rescue the drone and ferociously yanking on that cable thingy it finally paid off and it just fell down so now we just have to find it and hope that it has survived the fall where is it gone yeah it's definitely broken damn it In traveling not everything goes to plan and this scenario was certainly one such case but we have told ourselves in the past that even if things go wrong, we will laugh about them and i think that this kind of story, we will remember for a long time With our trip quickly coming to an end, we returned to the coast one last time Setting up camp directly on the beach, we simply relaxed enjoying the rhythmic sound of the waves in the background Once the sun had set in the evening the stars start to appear granting us a wonderful view of the night sky After four weeks on Corsica, having driven 2000 kilometers it was time for us to say farewell Rarely have we driven on so many picturesque roads encountered such translucent waterholes or laid eyes on such a fabulous coastline The name Island of Beauty should not be bestowed lightly but we do agree that Corsica deserves it
2022-07-02 14:32
