BMW E46 M3 TOURING BUILD | Ep1 | ENG SUB
Hello guys, my name is Attila Csontos. In case you missed it, in the previous part - which you can see here on the link in the upper right corner, I finally brought the 318d out of the backyard, finally started it after two years of standing, I cleaned the inside and washed the outside as well. This E46 will become an M3 Touring or wagon in America by the end of the series.
I will start the whole Touring build with removing the engine, but first I will remove the slam panel, the radiator pack and some piping. From now on, it will be more exciting! However, something needs to be done with the lighting, because it's not very good. Current light tubes are weak, too yellow-ish and also strange for the camera. So I need an All-in-one solution, so I ordered two LED lights as a test, which I quickly install. How much brighter! You can see way better! Well, this only means one thing: I can order the remaining lights as well! First, slam panel. At the frame legs 13mm screws at the top corners 10mm screws.
Before removing, don't forget to disconnect the hood opening cable and, if you have, the headlight washer piping. Now remove the intercooler, first these small metal clips on both sides have to be pulled down until they stop, then the pipes can simply be pulled out of it. I said simply! I said pull out! And if you find that much oil in the cooler pipe, better call Jockey Ewing if he is interested in something from the engine! Now remove the air conditioning piping on the left side of the radiator pack and the water pipe on the bottom.
The intercooler is held by two more torx screws from below, and then it can be pulled out. After 20 years, it is not surprising that there is so much dirt! Then the water pipe on the top and the servo piping. And the radiator pack can come out. That's it! The slam panel has finally been removed, I probably won't put it back, because it's pretty badly damaged.
I can now continue to remove more parts. I start at the heating valve, then the cabin filter housing, starter positive cable, washing tank, a little trouble with the air filter housing, some more air conditioning piping removal. I will also remove the hood, so it will be easier to lift out the engine. I also disconnect the engine harness.
And I also remove the water pipes from the air conditioning box, which are fixed by 1-1 clamp. So far so good. We're good from above, now I go under the car, the exhaust, the propshaft, all other crap comes down and then I will see how bad it is from below.
Now I'm showing you what you can get for 800 euros! First of all, I'm curious about how brutal the underside will be. I will see it for the first time too. Damn! Well, I have to show you this! Well, I think we should start from the beginning I mean, from the back. We have a really great TA Technix shock absorber, well, I already removed the calipers. Of course, a thousand spiders here too. I don't see any big problem from here yet.
Let's say that at this moment it is average maybe there is a little less rust on the battery tray than average, which is not so bad because many times these also need to be repaired. Small plugs are also fine, pleasant surprises so far. The shock absorber maybe gone, so probably that's why it's so dirty.
We'll see. I'm very glad that we originally had xenon because at least the height adjuster is wired in. So I don't have to deal with it later.
If you choose a donor and you want a xenon headlight better choose one with xenon headlight because retrofit it is very complicated afterwards. Ok not that really complicated, but it's time-consuming so until you retrofit, let's say here in Hungary and in Europe, the xenon headlight requires automatic adjustment and the headlight washer as well. So if you have halogen, you have to install the height adjustment together with the xenon, I mean the automatic leveling and the headlight washer as well.
I don't really see problem at rear subframe mounting point. There sometimes... ooo there it is. It will be cracked there.
I don't know how visible it is here, but here there we have a crack for sure. most often most often here the left rear and the right front mounting point tend to crack, this is the most, most often. There and here.
But we'll take a look at this as well if we can see anything from the spiders. But not really. Well, I guess I have to remove this to see better. There is nothing extra at the fuel tank, at the back in the usual place behind the tank and above the tank there is some corrosion it is not too bad I think this is still quite good.
Let's say here these brackets are well corroded so we will probably replace them. Is it the same on the other side? It's the same there. Well, it will probably be replaced with these little ones And the first bigger problem Some kind of genius doesn't lift it at the lifting point, for what? Let's lift it at the thin plate! Well, I think we've seen this in history, it wasn't the first and it wasn't the last. But the other lifting points and the underside seem to be fine. They weren't hurt here either, or were they? No.
It's good there too. Okay, this will be good. I'm glad. Now, for the first time, after a quick visual inspection, apart from this one dent, it's pretty good. Now I think I'm going to take the engine out.
Heat shield off first, one screw another 10mm, third, fourth. Then he propshaft come off. The propshaft is held by four E12 torx at the back 13mm-s at the bearing in the middle and three 18mm-s at the front at the gearbox.
This brace still needs to be removed first. In order to remove the propshaft, I must first remove the gearbox support. Four 13mm-s Don't steal my wire thing! I'm watching you! screws hold it... Remove this little heat shield and propshaft can come off. There is a little trick, because this pin has to be taken out, this has to be taken out in such a way, that this plate has to be folded up in this way first and then it can be pulled out to the side. However, if you don't want to bother with it, there is also a simpler solution but first you have to remove the shift knob from the inside and the skirt from the shift lever and then with a small move like this That way you can pop it out that's it and from now it's free! I'll put back the gearbox support, but it's really unnecessary.
So far so good! It's ready from the underside, the engine can come out now! A quick lift, wheels down, and there was nothing wrong until... first I tried to knock the stuck screw well, but it didn't work then I tried with extended wrench then I tried to heat it but nothing. drilling remains! And yes! Here is the guilty. Finally came out! This wheel can also come off, and then the anti roll bar.
But I didn't want to play with the rotten screws of the stab links, so I chose the simpler solution. Anti roll bar is also down, now the steering rack can come. But for this I have to jump down to the pit again. And here it is. Remove with E10 torx,
well extended. Then the joint just needs to be pulled out and that's it. The engine mounts are held by a 16mm nut on the left and right side, and spin the spiders a little bit Don't forget the clutch slave cylinder and ground cable either. I even remove the steering rack separately too. The engine now only rests on the front subframe and on the gearbox support, I can finally attach the engine to the lift. The front arms and the subframe are left, and now I can really pull the engine out.
And that's good too. Ah it's super! Good. That's it! Very good! Great! This is it! This is this is this! The underside is ready, the subframe is lowered I also remove the steering rack I think the space is a bit better this way. Oops, power out? The power is out! There's a bit of a storm outside. Wow, the power went out. What's here? Has it started to rain? It starts to rain a little, and is there no electricity in the city? Well, that doesn't bother me, because that engine will get out of here. This pin is now more accessible when it is lowered.
and... Ok, everything is prepared, out with that! That's it! The engine is finally out. It was a difficult birth, if you've made it this far, congratulations! This is a pretty good milestone so far. The engine is finally out of the little 318d, I think that's enough for today.
That's all for today's video guys, if you liked it, hit that like button, if you're interested in how to build an M3 Touring subscribe to the channel, if anyone needs these parts or the engine, then send a message and see you in the next video! Oh my god Guys, what the hell could be this? 18d engine, you can pickup for free!