2022 Petzl RocTrip TV Show – Day 3
We're going to make a point. On rocks, we're going to use a 12-mm bolt. The first step is choosing the location.
For that, we need to check the rock to make sure there are no weaknesses. I'm going to use a hammer to check. First, I'll tap it a bit to see what it sounds like. Like this. There you go. If it sounds solid, it's good. If it sounds hollow, it's no good.
It's hollow there, so that's no good. It's solid here. Another key thing is that this part should be flat so that the hanger lies against it in a stable position. Third requirement, when I climb, I'm going to place a quickdraw on this hanger. There mustn't be physical stress on the quickdraw. It mustn't be at an angle.
Basically if I put the point here, the carabiner's in an awkward position, which would be an issue. So, that's about right. That's perfect. One final key thing is you must make sure that you don't put the point on a much larger piece of rock that you may not have spotted, a large fragment or block that could come off. In this case, it's all solid.
It's perfect. Now we can start drilling. So, we're going to drill with the drill bit that matches the diameter of the bolt.
I have a bolt that's 12 mm in diameter, so I'm going to use a drill bit that's the same size. The 12-mm one. For the depth of the hole, which is very important, you want to drill slightly deeper than the total length of the bolt. There are a few key things here. I could put some duct tape to mark a reference point.
When I drill, I'll know that I've drilled deep enough. I could also compare my bolt. I'm looking to check I have the right length because all drill bits are different and there are several bolt sizes. So, why do we drill the right length? We drill the right length, so we can push the bolt in fully, so it's very important to drill deep enough to expand the bolt correctly. If I don't drill enough, I won't be able to push it in or expand it fully.
Then the drill angle will be perpendicular to both planes. Horizontally like this and vertically. Again, this is to make sure it's in a stable position.
If I drill at an angle in one way or another, the hanger will be in an unstable position, so I won't be able to install it correctly and I won't get the desired results. So, I'm checking that the level is right here and here. Now I can start to drill. When I drill, I'm also paying attention to how the rock feels.
There's quite a lot of resistance. The rock's very hard. But you can get pockets of air like bubbles or areas of rock that aren't as firm, so a bit softer or even decayed. So, I'm paying close attention to how it feels when I'm drilling. If there's a big air bubble, I might need to change the location of my point.
There. Then we'll clean the hole. We can clean the hole by hand like that or with a little tube that you put inside. And you blow. To really clear the hole and ensure there's no dust inside that could gather at the bottom and reduce the distance. Reduce the depth of the hole, I mean.
I'm now going to take my bolt. I'm going to position it over the hole and push it in slightly. The key thing is I'm just going to leave the head of the bolt sticking out to hammer it in to avoid damaging the thread. If I do this, I risk damaging the thread and then I wouldn't be able to expand it. So, I'm going to unscrew it and just leave the head of the bolt.
I'll get my hammer. And I'll hit it in. When I get to the end, it's important to unscrew it again slightly to use the entire length of the shaft. Right to the end.
Otherwise, I'll have to unscrew it again and hammer it even more. There you go. I'm positioning it so that when I attach the quickdraw, it's the right way around. The angle isn't right. Vertically, like that.
So, when I attach my quickdraw, it's in the right position. So, the hanger will be in this position, because if it's in a different position, if you fall, the carabiner will drive downward and there's a risk that it will unscrew. The hanger can unscrew, so it's essential to place it in the direction that the carabiner and hanger are being used.
It clips on like that. Then to expand the point, I'm going to use a wrench that's a suitable size. I don't need a huge wrench.
It's naturally easy to expand. It's clearer with the eyelet. There you go. And now I'm just going to feel when my point expands. Inside, there's a little clip that stays in place and when I screw the bolt, the shaft expands the clip, while coming out slightly. I should feel resistance.
There shouldn't be loads, but at least a bit. There you go. The size of the wrench is designed to be tightened with one hand. No need to tighten with both hands. When I can clearly feel resistance, it means my point is expanded.
So, once my clip has been put place, visually it's in line, it doesn't move. You can check, but it doesn't move. And the shaft isn't sticking out too much.
If it sticks out too much, it means part of the rock was too soft or there was a bubble, so it's hard to make sure that the hanger is really strong. Above all, the quickdraw might go in an awkward position. It could go in an awkward position and get caught on the shaft sticking out.
The quickdraw is positioned perfectly, and you can see there aren't any parts that you press with your finger that could open if you fall or the climber moves. In any case, we can move onto the next part. See you soon! Today, most people have left the village because they couldn’t find work. They went away for their studies and became scientists, doctors, engineers, lawyers. Consequently, with the older generation passing away, half of the houses are uninhabited and there aren't a lot of people left. The only opportunity for income is from agricultural work.
Most of the inhabitants have left the villages for that reason; to find a job elsewhere, in Chalkida or Athens. It's a problem in our village, as well as all the surrounding areas. We would like something to be done here in our village, so that young people can come and stay here.
The region needs climbing. We have to promote it. As a friend told me, "You live in paradise and you don't even know it." We have a paradise here, so if the people realize that, that there is potential in tourism, in other kinds of tourism, then I think that the people will decide to stay instead of leaving.
We are in the main square of Manikia, a small Greek village on the island of Evia. It's a village perched high in the hills, where a small community lives. They've always been surrounded by these cliffs without imagining that something could be done with them. Then they saw us come and start climbing, bolting, etc. We gradually became friends with the locals — like family. It's always been important to us that the locals are involved in the development of climbing.
The organization was born with a few dozen individuals. Slowly, new people are joining. Those who joined were not necessarily climbers. But we told them that in order to obtain funding, we'd need to make a guidebook for the climbing areas, to make signage for navigating the area, and establish a rescue team.
So, we try to share all the knowledge we have, and step by step they become self-sufficient. The goal is that in 2023 they will be fully independent in managing all aspects of the project. As for climbing, it's something really new in the village. People are sometimes skeptical, they don’t realize the potential.
Our region is really diverse, we have the sea and the mountains. We can be in the mountains, surrounded by snow and pine trees in the morning, then be on the coast at noon. Now, with everyone working together, we can move forward with our project to develop the area. We have the will, the motivation, the organization, and the support of the villagers to make it successful and to highlight the area. I think that in a couple of years the village will have changed. Abandoned houses will be rebuilt, there will be restaurants, and new people will be attracted to the village.
At the moment, 90% of the inhabitants are retired. Little by little, I think that young people will invest in the climbing project. I am confident. Climbers are coming from all over the world here. But the locals also need to keep their identity.
2022-05-18 06:29
