1 Month Solo Cycling through Southern Mexico
After two years on the road cycling south from Alaska, I decided to take a break. A break, to go back home to see my friends and family and also a break from living outside every day. And I was loving it. I didn't realize just how much I'd missed everyone, and I was actually really enjoying all the home comforts and having a guaranteed safe place to sleep every night.
But as much as I was enjoying it as the months went on, one thing became clear, I wasn't done. Everything in me was itching to get back out to Mexico and continue on from where I left off. So after five months, I reunited with my bicycle and my friend Jorge, who you took such great care of it thank you so much Jorge! And started preparing to hit the road. But there was one thing I was nervous about. I'm sitting in my hotel room here in Mexico City. I was so excited to get going, but now I think I realize how scared I actually am because I just feel so out of the flow of it, like the idea of setting off tomorrow and not knowing where I'm going to sleep tomorrow night.
It's just such an unsettling feeling. I'm just not used to that at all. Yeah, I just can't imagine myself as that person that used to do this every day. But finally, the day came that I'd have to leave my four walls and security and set off into the big wide world once again. See you later Thanks so much for everything.
Lets keep in touch Yes, yes of course. Goodbye friend! Goodbye Greg Goodbye friend! see you later. Safe travels Thank you! Supported by Tumbleweed Bicycle Co. I gotta say, it does feel pretty good to be back on the bike. Excuse me! After a slow, all day uphill slowly emerged all the way above the city.
Amazing view. That is crazy Its getting to that time where I'd normally start looking for a spot, but still pretty much in the city. Hopefully I find something. I was doing my best just to remind myself to trust the process and see what came my way.
Just found a little restaurant here on the side of the bike path and she said I can camp, so, sorted. Good morning Good morning! There's an incredible cycle path that leads, like 100km out of Mexico City. That, Jorge who was looking after my bike, let me know about and it has just been an absolute joy.
After a couple of blissful days on the cycle path, I had to tackle some pretty big highways to get to my next destination. On a busy road so donning the high vis that I got last time. Safety first guys. That was such a difficult day.
Basically, I think maybe because its just my first big day and it was all uphill, all day and all on the pavement highway so it just felt just like I couldn't really relax. And then as I was on the highway, someone threw a bottle at me out of their car. Not a glass bottle, thankfully, but it did give me a good whack and I thought I had been hit by a truck for a second. And then I realized it was just a bottle.
Didn't make me feel great, obviously. And then I was nowhere near getting to where I thought I might be able to camp for the night. So I was like, okay, I'm going to start just looking for a single friendly face. And then I saw one across the road, and asked these guys if I could possibly camp. And they were like, yeah, of course, and showed me round to this beautiful little tucked away spot.
And then five minutes later, they brought me a full cooked dinner. So incredibly generous. And I gave their two little kids two little coins I still had from London, which they were just enamored by. So it's like a small way I can kind of try and express my gratitude. But yeah, after such a tough day and just thinking, wait, why am I doing this again? It's like instantly reminded, oh, this is this is why I'm doing it. Yeah.
Slowly getting back in the flow of things. Today, headed up Popocatépetl, I think is how you say it, which is like a very big volcano. Well it's like a pass between two very big volcanoes and I've heard its quite spectacular so, yeah, let's give it a go.
On a beautiful, quiet little road up towards the volcanoes. So much better than the highway. Dont know what I was thinking. Wow That is smoke billowing from the volcano. I made it to this shelter just as the weather started to roll in, made my dinner and set up camp for the night up at 4000m. And I also made some friends with the climbers up there that were planning to set off for the summit at 1AM.
He has my glove! Yes! Guilty! Hey, this little rascal. It’s the one that stole my glove and he knows it! and from here you’re going to Puebla, and after? Yeah And after, where next? I don’t know, I want to head towards Orizaba Ah ok. That is where the other volcano is, the one that's exploding. But this cloud doesn't want you to see it, I'm afraid. Mexico City I don't think you can see it, but that is lava coming out of the volcano. It's so crazy just trying to sleep with the sound of an erupting volcano.
Woah, that is crazy! What are you guys doing? I was really worried it wasn't going to be clear because it's just been shrouded with clouds the last two days. And waking up this morning, it's just unbelievable. I packed up my things and set off towards Puebla on the other side of the volcanoes, hopefully just in time to catch the day of the dead celebrations. Yeah! So these are the Cempasuchil flowers (Marigolds), which is one of the main flowers for the day of the dead in a couple of days. In Puebla, I stayed for a few days to catch the beautiful day of the dead celebrations. And I was very kindly invited to stay with Chacho and Fatima, who are musicians.
They gave me a wonderful tour of the city and even invited me to one of their shows, which was spectacular. And I'll leave a link to their stuff below if you're interested. Bye thanks so much for everything. Hope it all goes well thank you, you too. Nice to meet you thank you.
Take care on the road. Goodbye! Chacho and I are heading out of town towards Malinche, a mountain just outside of Puebla. And it's been really wonderful, they’ve been wonderful guides, feeling very welcome, at home, here in Puebla. Good afternoon Nice work! Right on.
That was tough. This is crazy. So this is the first ever store I’ve camped in. Which is a good one to check off the list. Thank you ‘Pulques La Nopalera’! Good afternoon Good afternoon! After a quick loop around Malinche, I made my way towards Pico de Orizaba, the tallest mountain in Mexico. There it is.
Yeah, that's quite high up. Woah! That's a big crater. We got some water boiling on the alcohol stove. Beautiful crater. Beautiful volcano. And a great sunset.
Honestly, it felt so good to be back out wild camping again in a spot as beautiful as this. The next day, I set off to tackle the climb up and around the volcano. Look, it’s this track. ‘abrecha’ - what does that mean? A path. Ah ok, yes.
And that one goes to the next town? That one goes, but its very... (steep) I've been climbing all day, and it's now like 3pm, so just resorted to pushing the bike half the time just because my legs absolutely smoked. But, yeah, that was to be expected. It is the tallest mountain in Mexico.
I spent the night in a climbers hostel to get a good night's rest before another day of climbing tomorrow. This morning you can see Malinche. That's Izta (Iztaccihuatl) and that's Popocatépetl.
So clear today. Good afternoon ah... good morning! Good morning! How are you guys? Good? We’re taking in the sun.
Ah, how nice! Where to? Alaska Alaska? It’s where I started. In Alaska? Yeah, 2 years ago, more or less. You guys work here? Yes Ah very nice.
You coming up, or the others well, because shortly many will be going up. And they all head to the shelter tonight and they climb in the night? Yeah in the night they head up... I understand. To the top, they go well to the top. Yeah, well then you from Alaska, 2 years you say? Yeah. Well Thank you, all the best! We’re here.
Thank you! If you need anything, we’re here! Okay, thanks very much Woah. Pretty nice. It's so beautiful! This is ridiculous. Just got my first view of the Refugio (shelter) it’s been tough, but very beautiful. It is a Saturday, so I think that's going to be quite a few people there that are planning to head up the mountain tonight. Right now I'm at around, around 4000 meters, way above the clouds.
It’s magnificent. Yeah. Where are you from? I’m from England. Oh cool! What part in England? London. Oh from London? Yeah Super pretty there. Well, not as pretty as here! This is the setup. Good spot for the tent, way above the clouds.
And all these groups are going to be going up the mountain. But yeah, I'm very happy, this is my peak right here. I've made it, and now I can cook dinner, have a good time. It is like 6:20am.
As you can see, it's very cold. You can see people right up there on the mountain little dots in the snow. And I can't imagine the wind up there.
It must be absolutely nuts. Got a 3000 meter descent today which is around 10,000ft, which is, a nice reward for yesterday's struggle. And I did recently spend all my money on a new set of brakes, so this will be a good test for those. So tough! Yeah, hows it going? Yeah good. Did you camp up there? Yeah its so beautiful have you been before? No it’s my first time.
Oh wow, yeah you’re going to love it, it’s incredible. Brakes are doing very well, I have to say. On this side of the mountain, I crossed into the state of Veracruz and dropped down into the beautiful coffee plantations. So I guess these are all coffee beans. Good morning! Good morning. Is it coffee growing here? Coffee.
Wow. It’s coffee. It’s just that the good stuff are these more red ones like this one. Ah, the red ones? This is the coffee. If you take off the shell, its the white part that has the coffee and stays inside the green part and it’s sweet. Wow.
The flavour is so nice. The sweetness? Yeah! These take on the flavour of the wood. Part from the Ash Tree, from the Indian Tulips, from the cocoa.
How beautiful. I didn’t imagine that that the flavours come from other things as well. I have friends in London that love coffee and they can taste everything. Everything of every little part of the flavour, they can... yeah.
They’re tasters. Tasters. This is coffee. Are you from the USA? I’m from England. Ah you’re English? Yeah a little far away. Yeah thats far.
What’s your name? Andres. Nice to meet you, Gregorio. Gregorio? Yes. Your second name? McCahon McCahon? Yeah, it’s a name from Ireland. Good morning! Well thanks so much for teaching me a bit! It’s nothing! And nice to meet you.
All this is coffee. So beautiful. Got to say, this route has been absolutely stunning. I highly recommend coming down and riding it if you get the chance.
That thing is huge. That is crazy. This is the ‘Indian Tulip’ tree he mentioned. I made it into the beautiful little city of Orizaba. And a friend, Carlos, showed me around. Thank you so much Carlos! And I made sure to try some of the local coffee.
Strong notes of Indian Tulips. And to be honest, there was a part of me that didn't want to leave. So I've been in this hotel in Orizaba for two nights now, and I'm just sitting here trying to pluck up the motivation to pack up my bike and leave, but it's so tough. There's a part of me that really wants to stay here and have another night in comfort.
And I think those five months at home, I found myself really enjoying all those comforts. And now, I'm really craving like a bed to sleep in, a door to lock, and a shower whenever I want it. And because of that, I've been feeling a lot less present than I'd like to be while I'm out riding, because I'm always looking forward to that next hotel, next town. And that's not how, that's not how I want this to be.
It's going to be another two years, I think, on the road and it's not going to work if I'm craving hotels the whole time. I need to fully embrace the dirtbag lifestyle. So I'm thinking this next section, no hotels until I get to Oaxaca. And that's around two weeks away. And I've kind of plotted the route so it's up in the mountains, and I don't think there's any hotels along the route, so it's not like I have an option.
And hopefully that'll be the thing that can just fully get me back in the flow. No hotels for two weeks, camping every night, full immersion back in the adventure. I think that's what I need. Yeah. I'm doing it.
Heading out of town. Wow, what a brave boy. Heading up into those mountains there. Good morning! Good morning, where are you headed my friend? Where am I going? Today, maybe to Tequila or the next town.
Do you do this, this route often? Once or twice a week. I live here in Orizaba, I have a taco business. Oh very nice. What type of tacos? It’s a style of Barbacoa called ‘Birria’ Ah yes Birria, I know it.
Beef Birria. One of my favourites very delicious. From Alaska? Yeah, I started 2 years ago. Crikey Gregory. Yeah, long time. Do you like this stuff? Yeah, a lot.
Bikepacking right? Yeah bikepacking. Yeah it’s my dream to travel like this. Very free. Wow Ah you can also see a little bit of the peak. Thanks Hector.
Gave my route a little look over and said that it's all looking great. This is exactly what I need. To be way out here in the hills without a cheap hotel in sight.
The first house I asked ended up letting me camp behind their place, and they used to live in the US, so all the kids spoke really good English and made me feel very welcome. And now it's recording and you can look around in any direction. So you, you can try and get out of the way, but I will find you. That family was so amazing.
Yeah, really nice people. Thanks, guys. If you're watching. How’s it going buddy? Hows it going? Where are you from? I’m from England. England? Ah. You live here? Yeah around here. Very beautiful around here. Yes, I like to ride my bicycle too.
Yeah? Yeah I also really like it. Ah very nice! Very nice. See you later! Really not feeling it today. I'm in the mood of just staying in my tent all day. But I can't do that because I'm on someone's roof. I guess this is the good thing about not being in a hotel is I'm forced to to get going.
And I know I feel better once I'm moving. Yeah, it's always kind of stressful those last couple of hours of the day searching for a spot to sleep, especially around here when there's nothing in the way of wild camping because it's so mountainous that there's no real flat land that isn't being used. And yeah, yesterday that was my third house that I asked. The first two said no.
Most of the time it's very easy, but I think around here people are maybe a bit more reserved. ‘Tehuipango’, welcome. After one failed attempt asking for a place to camp, I came to this little town, came to the church here, and they offered me a place to camp up there. So I made my dinner up there and I think they could see that I preferred maybe like an enclosed spot, so then they offered me this nice room that I can camp in.
Which I feel a lot safer in because I can shut the door. And it's got a gorgeous view. Look at that. It was super bustling and busy, and then all of a sudden everyone left, which has left me a little bit suspicious. I wonder if that's like a curfew thing.
And the only person left is the guy sat by the bell of the church ready to ring it at six, and then I think he's going home too. Thank you, little town that I don't know the name of, because it's not on the map for a good night's sleep. ‘Coyom...’ ‘Coyomeapan’ Last night was an absolute nightmare. I got to that little place and asked if there was a spot I could camp. And they offered me the roof of their place, which was very kind.
What I didn't expect was the wind really picked up, and because I was on a concrete roof, I couldn't guy it out very well. And the wind was just unrelenting all night and just got worse and worse. So I didn't sleep at all.
And then it was getting to the point where the tent was about to collapse and break, and I was like, I don't want to buy a new tent. So I packed up everything at 3:30am in a crazy windstorm, and then sheepishly made my way down to the house and knocked on the door. And luckily the father was awake and let me in and, they let me sleep on their floor, which was very, ah, so good! Such a relief. Because I was just in the middle of it. So I was able to get two good hours of sleep last night at least. Today I had two route options.
One was a real pain in the ass steep one and the other, a lot easier, but with 14km on a busy highway, and I think that's made my decision for me. I'm just going to take it the easy way because I'm not going to have much in me today. I didn't come across a single wild camping spot in the state of Veracruz, but I was hoping my luck might change in the state of Oaxaca. Getting to that pavement means officially crossing into Oaxaca.
Yeah! State of Oaxaca. Seeing a lot of wild camping potential so far in Oaxaca. Off in those trees to the right, up there somewhere. Look at that.
I would love to camp in there. Up there, I’d love it! Beans, tortillas, eggs ‘a la mexicana’. Quesadilla (the waiter arrives) and a little one. Thanks very much. Hey friend. I decided to give myself an easy day and drop all the way down to the desert valley below for a slight change of scenery.
Don’t worry guys, putting on the helmet. We've got some nice cactus friends starting to show up. Look at that guy.
That's a big one. They don't look real, so cool! So nice to just have a different change of scenery. Be down in the desert for the first time since I restarted the trip.
Beautiful! Wow, yeah I'm quite burnt. Going to need some aloe vera. Found a beautiful little camp spot for tonight. Look at this. I can finally bathe for the first time in five days. And I feel disgusting but this is going to feel so good.
I slept really well. Probably got like, 10 or 11 hours of sleep so, yeah, that's what I needed. Guys, in the next town that I'll get to in like, ten kilometers.
There are so many hotels, and I'm not sure what I'm going to do. And also, it is forecast to rain a lot tonight. So that is going to be tough. It's going to be tough to resist. Because now I'm a week in to this two week stretch. I think it be two weeks.
Would be a good time, but also, I don't feel like I need it. So yeah we'll see what I do. We'll see what I do.
Just doing some climbing. You know the drill. All the different colours, so beautiful! Good afternoon! Good afternoon. Hows it going? Good good! Hey good afternoon. Want a popsicle? I’m all good, thank you so much! Are you guys headed to Oaxaca? (yes) And you’re walking this trail from...? Wow very beautiful.
For context, these are religious pilgrims walking walking to the town of Juquila in Oaxaca which people do every year for a big celebration on the 8th of December. Bon appetit! Thanks! Enjoy. Why did I say no to free ice lolly? That they were very kindly trying to offer me.
That is another thing I need to get out of my head about. In England, right? We have this thing where if you offer us anything, we'll say no, even if we want it. It'll be like, no, no, it's fine. Obviously, that rule is not the same here. People are only offering you something if they actually want you to have it.
So I need to snap out of my default British ‘no’ and if I want something, just say yes. Would have love a little Ice lolly there hang out with those guys. But no, no too polite. “Polite” when actually the polite thing would be to accept here.
When else are you going to be offered a literal ice lolly in the middle of the desert? Other than pilgrims walking a trail, how crazy is that? People have like, mirages about that. And I said no. Ridiculous.
Guys. I don't know what to tell you, but I do find myself in a hotel room. But I have a good, I have a good excuse.
Okay. I've got a, update video that I need to put on Patreon. And I promised those guys weekly updates, and, whenever I try to upload it from my phone, the audio is out of sync. It's like a little update video. So, you know, those guys are the reason that I'm able to do this.
Pretty much so, got to keep them happy. But I have to admit, it does feel nice after a week to have a door I can shut, a bathroom, a bed. For this luxury I have the people of Patreon to thank.
Thank you so much for giving me an excuse to to be comfortable and feel safe tonight. So yeah. Cheers guys. I'm going to have a good night sleep. Incredible decision. It's really heavy out there.
I'm so glad I'm not in my tent. Thank you, Patrons, for making me stay here. Feeling refreshed after my sneaky night in mild luxury, I set off into the mountains to start the final leg towards the city. Coming into a little town here that a man on horseback just told me they have a little restaurant where I might be able to get some breakfast. Some eggs, hopefully. Good afternoon! Good afternoon! You’ve got it! Take it slow.
Little by little. Is this road only dirt all the way to the waterfall? Yeah, where are you from? I’m from England. Good to meet you. Nice to meet you. (Welcome to) Tepetongo. Yes, very beautiful here.
alone? Yes (didn’t hear) Alone? Yeah just me, just me. And where do you stay? Do you camp? Where? Yeah I have my tent last night I camped off the side of the road on the climb. Very pretty, with a wonderful view.
Ah, yes it is. Very fit. Yeah sometimes I don’t feel it but... yeah. One gets tired.
Well, you have food? You have everything? Yeah I just ate in the little restaurant, very delicious, some eggs, and now I have more strength to continue on. Do you want me to push you so that you can get going? Yes. (didn’t understand) Ah no no! It’s ok. I can do it - thank you very much. I’m saying so that you can get going and rolling. No but, yes, I’m going to push but I can do it myself.
No I want to give you a hand. It’s ok friend I, I have... I’ve been cycling for 2 years south from Alaska, up north, and a lot of kilometers pushing so I’m used to it.
Well, good luck! Thanks very much and nice to meet you! Likewise! What’s your name? Hilario. Nacho. Gregorio, nice to meet you So good of you to visit here Yeah I’m very lucky to be able to visit here, it’s incredible here.
Nice guys. That is crazy. That is just crazy. Unbelievable. Good afternoon. Good afternoon.
While looking for a camp spot, I stumbled upon this family's land, and after a quick chat, they invited me for a taco. And this time, I didn't say no. And is this corn? Yeah corn, but it’s still not ready. Ah ok. When is it ready? The corn we have here, 1 month. 1 month, ok.
Soon! Hello. A taco? Thanks so much. This is one of our methods for catching crickets.
Ah, they’re in the tree? Yeah, I shake it and they fall... Ah yes! And you guys eat them too? Yeah! And you like them? Yeah, we eat them and... The dog eats them too? The crickets? My first cricket.
And does this have seasoning? Or is it just... It’s fried it’s cooked, it’s fried. Ah ok. With Chili and oil.
With oil, ok. It’s fine a lot of nutrition. Yes. Protein. Okay. Chew it.
Yeah it’s good! It’s good. Wow it’s a bit like chorizo. Right? Yeah.
What wonderful people! Invited me for a taco because they said that my Spanish was really good, so, feeling pretty good about that. I feel like this is a situation where I could have gotten shot if I was in in the US, on someones land asking to camp. Instead you get invited for a taco, you get to eat a cricket. Very special country.
In the morning, Felix, the father came up to check on his cows and he invited me down to their home to join them for a very tasty breakfast. Bye Ruby, bye Lizbeth! Man... What an amazing family. And look at this beautiful place that they live.
Yeah, incredibly generous people. Thank you so much, guys if you're watching. very, very kind and has solidified my love of the state of Oaxaca. I'm absolutely loving this! Cass Gilbert, thank you mate, you've made an amazing route. So beautiful.
And before I knew it, I was on the home stretch to Oaxaca City. Ta da. Good morning. Yeah I should get into Oaxaca either today or tomorrow.
Pretty close now, but yeah, I am a bit apprehensive to get back into a big city. Just because I've grown to really, really love this again, of just being outside constantly. And I know that I'll need to spend a little bit of time in there to, probably to edit the video you’re watching now. But yeah, it’ll be good to rest the legs. I haven't had a,
a rest day in like two weeks, so I think the body will appreciate it. There it is. Oaxaca.
This will do for a camp spot for the night. The city is just there. Probably could have made it in today if I was really pushing it, but, why pay £15 to lock myself up for the night when I've got a beautiful spot right here, and I'll probably sleep better for it as well. Tell you what, I have to admit. I am looking forward to a shower for sure. That is going to be nice.
Welcome to Oaxaca. I ended up spending xmas in Oaxaca with a few other bikepackers. This was our xmas morning ride, I dressed up the bike for the occasion. Scott, Cass & Emma. The Xmas squad. and of course Huesos! Emma and Cass’s dog.
2025-02-12 10:34
