Bunnies, welcome to my building video. Here is no professional intro and no music, It's all ramshackled together in a hurry and it starts right now. So: Curtain up, Spot on.
Like that. Bunnies, i just arrivied from the parcel storage and i brought something. It is something big this month. The yellow tractor from Mould King.
It is RC by app and by remote control. I won't install the app. It is awful. Mould King tell it's a 4 in 1 Trator, one could also say you have 4 attachments. Best thing: It is licensed by the designer.
No pirate copy anymore like former MK sets. "RB instructions" is (a guy named) Remo from Frankfurt/ Oder (Germany). Not only the tractor is by him, but also the 4 attachments. I saw coloured (blue) BS, which I will change with less coloured stuff.
I was on the rebrickable page of RB instructions: The tractor looks like this there. yellow roof instead of white and yellow rims instead of silver and I found out, that the original is a "Fastrac 4000 series". Looks like that on the manufacturer's page. It's clear to me that I won't attach the stickers because they don't belong there. I will open the box now and check out the motors and things and pick you up again than. We have a inner box.
The rims, tires and the showel were inside. We have 6 zip bags of building steps, another bag of pins, the manual and the stickers, the electronics were all packed seperately in these bags. We have 2 L motors, 1 M motor, 1 servo and the remote control.
You have to bring 2xAAA batteries by yourself. To turn the screw, there is a screw driver given. We have the rechargeable battery box and the USB cable. You have to bring USB/Power-adapter by yourself.
You go to the stand and it continues immediately. The manual starts with stickering the motors. 2-3 each. I think that is too much. I decided to sticker the plugs only because the 2 identical motors are both "A" and get stacked on the battery box. The is no way to confuse them.
Next the remote control is explained. We have A, B, C, D with both directions each. We find A, B, C, D on the battery box also.
If the motor rotates clockwise, and you want to rotate it anticlockwise, hold both buttons for 3 seconds to change their direction. Next, the manual explains the A, B, C buttons, which I also just did. For some reason they leave out D.
Now the confusion is perfect here. On the top there are 2 more buttons. It says: Push that left button and use A buttons: Motors A and B will work. That is true.
It says next: Push the right button to work motors A and C. Operation shall be by B buttons. That is wrong. It is A. Now use both buttons to work motors A, B and C. Operation shall be by C buttons. That wrong. It is A also.
Story short: I use normally the Motors A, B, C, D by the buttons A, B, C, D. When I push the left button, I add motor B to button A. When I push the right button, I add motor C to button A.
That is independent from each other. If I did this, the normal B or C control is dead. (I say it wrong and correct it by text) Now it starts building. With bag 1. But I wanted to show you something different first. This is the battery box.
I plug in the servo. D on A so the Adrians Monks among you go rampage. I put in a flag from LEGO parts to show what the motor is doing. When I push A, the servo does a quarter circle. When I release A, it goes back.
Other direction also. That is digital steering. There is only 1 position. I test if the servo has more than one position in each direction. The LEGO servo has 9? 8? positions in each direction. I don't know. But way more than 1 for sure. I dragged out my BuWizz . Why did I pull that out? This is my old mobile, which just went off, thank you.
I do a cut and will be right back. Mobile successfully revived. Battery was low. The BuWizz App is running. The control works like the remote control. I pull up for a quarter circle or down for the other direction. What if i pull the control slowly? What happens to the servo? I hold it tight because I know what is coming. I pull it up slowly and it does weird shakes. At some point it switches digitally.
So it has only one position. That is sad. Would had made me happy. The moment the servo switches, I do not move the control. I stop moving it ...
now and the servo travels the entire distance. So sad. Bag 1 is built. Looks like that.
Basically we are finished already. All 4 motors are attached. Here is the servo, the 2 L motors, the M motor. I connect it to the battery box. A to A, D to D so you don't get mad. And C to C. We can drive. 4 wheel drive.
We can steer. And we can rotate the shaft. Wait. I take matters in my hand. Here is the motor. The drive goes front, down and the shaft rotates on the entire length.
What we got else? These actuators are for .. you don't see it. I am smart. These actuators are for lifting the attachment mounts. Like here. You can turn here and it goes up and down. These mounts are exactly like at the (LEGO 42054) Claas. I show you. I push the Claas in the frame.
Look, exactly the same. I turned it high so you don't see. When you leave out the outer axle joiners, the sleeve is the same also. I want to show you some things from the manual. We are in the 30s steps. We build together 2 motors until step 36.
In 37 it gets connected to the rest. The manual does not tell, where the cables must go. I had to scroll forward. It is shown in step 83 the first time. All to the upside. Step 60: 2 liftarms with 2x 3L pins through and a pin hole with pin at each end. They can rotate freely.
Step 64: mount that at the back of the motos. The pin holes are not reachable. This made me mad. I tried for 10 minutes. This axle down here must mount also and both sides are freely turnable.
And a second axle up here. You can do the downer axle later by turning it in. Step 71 uses the new 3 by 3 connector, which made me happy. 75? We build this and this and both are mounted left and right. What is that 3L axle? It not listed as needed part.
That is no new 3L axle but the long time there-being drive axle. Poor perspective. The red arrow does not belong to the axle but to the red framed black module.
Step 77 is funny. Look at step 1. At Step 2 a L-liftarm gets added at the back. Wtf? mounted in the air? No. Step 1 gets turned to the back. The black pins go back now. But the manual does not tell to turn the module. That confused me.
Same here only the other way round. I am done with manual and show you the spares. 4 actuators and 2 large liftarms. 13L and 15L I think. I bet, they are not left over at the end. I continue building. Hold stop. Everything stays at it is.
I wanted to show you something else. Here goes the drive. Under the upper shaft. I turn it on to show. It goes via this grey knob wheel to this.
This is a going through axle. Same here. I turn on.
There is no differntial gear. I don't know yet if I like that. You won't let it go through hardest terrain. If it has to pull itself up, the whole weight of the model hangs on one of those joints.
Precisely on of it's 2 cross nails. Look here. This ... goes in that dark part. Here is a ball. And there are 2 cross nails at the ball.
The hole model will hang on one of those if it has to pull itself up a curb or something. "a curb! Afterproduction-bunny rofls hard!" That won't go well for long. Somebody's got an idea where to buy those joints out of metal? Will be useful in this model.
I modded something and show you the situation at the Claas because there not everything is black in black. Here is the shaft a ball joint This part *poke* must not go away up und down so it gets hold in place by this connector. I turn it around. Here, jacked.
Look at this connector When it turn it up, you can see that the connector has nothing in its way. This is maximum height because this connector ... touches this liftarm. At the fastrac there is a T-shaped liftarm right here. So the connector ... would collide with it.
I change it. Go away you. Come here you. Get jacked.
Wait. I make space. Looks like that. I changed that to make space. It is still present here. Here gaps a hole. I used a double pin with stop bush and a 3L axle from LEGO.
The connector passes the liftarm. But on the other side ... there should be 2x 3L liftarms. This 3L here ... collides with the T down there.
I changed it with a 2L which i found accidently here. This was 2L. I dismantled it here and put the 3L here and the 2L here. I wonder if it stays here final. Must wait for the final spares. "Afterproduction-bunny likes it like that" Is works like that for now.
I show you the progress as a whole. Looks like that after Bag 2. We have a engine hood, drivers seat, fellow passenger seat, fenders. You can lift the hood, here is an axle with stop, to latch here. Down there is the battery box.
The manual shows the cables of the red plugs to go round in front. That is a stupid idea because here is little space. The hood touches the cables. So i bowed the cables up. There is much space. The manual continues not in yellow but in red. Here: take a red part and replace it with yellow.
I just realized the meaning of the double arrow now because I saw that earlier. They wanted to tell me "you can change that with a slip clutch". But what they told was weird.
Here: Replace tooth wheel with tooth wheel. WTF? Slip clutches are not given btw. I built it together for now with blue pins and red axles and all that BS I will change that for sure. I dumped a yellow 5L axle here but my Claas has a grey 5L axle now up at the hood. I wanted to show you also the spares.
These 3 and I got a whole bag of rubber connectors. Used not a single one. I don't get it. Bag 3 is built. I got a chevron left. The rubber connectors are still there too. We have an entrance ladder. Same on the other side. Doors are growing. There is some display, only a black tile.
But this one is stickered. A steering wheel. The front fenders are on the steering. They turn also. I used red and blue here but i cleaned up the front Everything black, nothing shiny anymore. Looks so awesome.
I got spares. And rubber connectors, yay. Now the tractor is finished. The 13L and 15L liftarms from the first bag went here. I have not mounted the tired yet.
The manual tells to build this 4 times. That is BS because the tires have a direction. They should turn like this. With these arrows back, the middle has contact to the ground first. Outer side second. When you go through mud, the mud gets pushed to the outer sides.
If the tire goes backwards, the mud is sucked to the middle. So build 2 tires like this and 2 tires like that. This is for the back side. Other words to the tires: they look very similar to LEGO's. The circumference is 7mm shorter They are usable with each other else.
That was not all in the bag. We have an attachment. A mash pusher or something. The Claas has one too as B model. The shaft is not used. It ends here.
He have here and here a hand wheel to tilt the showel. He have here another hand wheel to change the height of it. The 4 actuators, which were left over in the first bag, went here. I want to show you a funny construction method I have never seen before. 273: A 3L liftarm in the middle with 2 black pins 274: A second 3 L liftarm in the air mounted with stud pins with 2L bars into the black pins's middle holes. That fascinated me.
checklist (what to tell) is checked and I must show you something differnt, but I have to rebuild here first. It started with the tractor not being plain at the underside. This tooth wheel sticks out For having 4 rest points and not just one, I turned down the attachment mounts. When you build the driver's cabin, (I take you out of the stand) and apply pressure here, then something happens that I want to show you. Look at that area.
When I push on the top .. crack! The problem is: The whole back area ... This gap in the fender goes through to the bottom The only connection it has is this liftarm I hold here a grey one but there is a black one behind. It ends in this pin. There. I make light.
This is a turning joint. We have also down there a connection but only lengthwise. It stands pushing powers but does nothing against pulling powers. That is the same place which I had so much fun with earlier.
Where I should mount 4x pin holes with pins to the back of the motors. I push it together as it belongs. I can't understand how such thing can slip through. Nobody there to testbuild a set before selling? It is easy to fix. You only need 2x 7L liftarms. There is much space. If you replace this black 5L liftarm with a 7L, than it goes until here. There 2 black pins in, and than the 5L connected to the front.
There is much space. You don't see because all black. 7L here 5L here to the front The problem would be fixed. All you need is 2x 7L liftarms extra.
Sheesh We have blue pins back here. They will go. In bag 5 there were 2 attachments and this actuactor was left. We have a corn shredder. I mounted it to the Claas.
In real the corn plants come from here. Think away this cross axle, the spikes continue back. They get cut by spinning blades There is a spinning black liftarm down there plants go inside here and get shreddered and blasted through this pipe into a nearby going trailer. You mount it on front or (better) at the back and go backwards to see what you are doing.
The shaft is used for spinning the blades. I turn it on You can turn the pipe. It is meant to turn the knob in the middle but that doesn't work. Either you overturn the toothwheel or in the other direction you pull out an axle. Here it is pulled apart. Here are 2 axle pins with friction to prevent the pipe from shaking.
There is too much resistance. You have to turn the turntable itself. To reduce the height you have ... here a hand knob to turn it down for street transport. I put it away and get the other attachment.
camera checked. Looks right. This is a harrow. You can turn it up with the actuator and i just realized: this toothwheel goes into the attachment mount.
When I turn here, both actuators are moved so the harrow goes up and gets folded in the same time. The shaft is not used. Here all the rubber connectors went.
This toothwheel goes into the attachment mount so turning up the mount also turns up the showel itself. These are not 2 ways of doing the same, but they happen both at the same time. I just realized that they are built the same. Bag 6 (which is the last) gave a plough. It has joints here and here.
They should be up here. I modded that. I used 2 double pins with axles extra. If you build it as the manual tells, the plough hangs too low for street transportation in which position it is atm. Here is an actuator (the one i had left over in the last bag) when you turn here, you can adjust the width of the rows. The shaft is used for turning the plough.
When you pull it over the field, it thows earth to the front. When you are at the end and do a U-turn, you also want to have the earth trown to the front. So you have to turn you plough by 180 degrees. What else? We have a lever up here. It goes to a clutch.
You can change direction by that too. Problem is: if you adjust the lever to neutral, the plough has no resistance and races down like this. I will do driving tests and I am really afraid of doing curves with it because it has no differential gear and 4 wheel drive. I will test it slowly.
We will find out together. First drive test was a fail. I mounted the BuWizz for starting smoothly.
I washed my desktop with a wet cloth. But anyway the servo did not make it to turn the wheels. When I steered at the remote control, it continued to go straight. When the wheels get turned, they should change position and turn against each other but they are mounted inflexible to an axle so the rubber has to shift on the desktop.
The servo was not strong enough for that. So I dismantled the front drive. Only the back axle is driven now. Now i will go outside and test straight journey, full circle and things. And I am sure, you want to see a race against this fellow. Ladies and gentlemen, you see on the left lane a JCB Fastrac erm a generic yellow tractor and on the right lane an AMG C63 erm a generic blue sports car it starts Ok, that is unexpected.
I thought, the tractor would be faster. They are almost equal fast. Although the AMG weights twice and has better motors. I just sent it on journey to show the range of the remote control. But suddenly the steering stopped working. And I looked for the reason.
Here, this grey liftarm. When I pull apart here up and down (This pressure is applied by the servo to the gear rack) I can easily pull it apart there And then the toothwheel scrups over the top of gear rack (instead of teething into it). It is fantastic! So another try: how is the range of the remote control? Now it's finished. I can't do anything anymore. I chased him and picked him up. That was about 29 meters. Now to the last challenge (his hardest one): the full circle.
It starts. I can't control a full circle, because the servo goes always back after a short time but after all he makes the circle in the street width although I am steering only half of the time. Let's go back home.
Thats fascinating. Now I can suddely keep steering always. Steering angle is minimal, but we expected nothing else. Sheesh. I don't know. If you want to have a shiny model with building fun and awesome attachments, than pick that.
But for driving around it is not suitable. It was meant to be a friend for the excavator. It gets a trailer and than loading und unloading all way rond. That will come to nothing. I will display it and look at it but it has so many constructive lacks: the attachment mount did not work at first, the plough had to be modded, at the corn shredder the hand wheel does not work, and than he breaks apart in the middle, and I had to remove the 4 wheel drive, and than he pulls apart at the steering, ...
that was frustration outside. Sheesh. Yes.. I am the guy who lets you the choice, look at it what it can do and what not. And decide by yourself if it is good for you.
And here you have to listen in the video not only what I say but also what I DON'T say: "I will play around with it for rest of the day" I hope I could share informations with you If you like the tractor, leave a thumb up. If it sucks, leave a thumb up too. Only if you think that I suck and you never again want to see a video from me, than leave a thumb down. I thank you for watching and until next time. Yes. Bye.
2021-02-28