ROBERT MAKŁOWICZ NIEMCY odc. 94 „ Na szczytach Bawarii ".
Zen is not only a card and an application with which you can exchange zlotys for other currencies without additional banking costs during a trip abroad. These are also privileges, for example an additional guarantee for music, electronics, household appliances or computers, which you can buy with the help of this card. Zen is the partner of today's episode. [AUTOMATIC TRANSLATION] My dear and dear friends, I would like to inform you that we are just starting a new journey. Italy is our primary target.
But this is not Italy. But we also set off with a few days to spare, to be able to show you beautiful places along the way. It is not Italy, but it is a beautiful place.
Salzburg the city of Mozart. Anyone who has been skiing in the area of Dachstein, Zell am See, must have been in Salzburg, and many undertake trips specifically to see this famous city. So Salzburg won't be explored on the way to Italy. Alexander von Humboldt, an extraordinary man who lived at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, a traveler, founder of climatology, oceanography and modern geography, listed several, in his opinion, the most beautiful places in the world. So he was talking about Constantinople, Naples, Salzburg and another place. Constantinople aka Istanbul.
It's hard to argue, the city is wonderful. Naples. It is known to see Naples and die. Salzburg, if you haven't been, come here. But it's an extremely famous place. However, the latter, the name of which I have not mentioned yet, is practically unknown to us.
It's very close from here. And that's where I wanted to take you on my way to Italy. Noting right away that the Italian destination of our trip will not be Naples at all.
But first this goal is beautiful and close. I was there before, and now we will be there together. And this is one of those places mentioned by von Humboldt as the most beautiful in the world.
We take the highway from Vienna to Innsbruck, for example, and this highway enters Germany for a while, and we pass it. And it is enough to deviate from it, take off from it, to get right here. So what is this place? I will mention this von Humboldt top once again. Constantinople, Naples, Salzburg and just that, that is the eastern part of Upper Bavaria. Berchtesgaden area. And it is really hard to disagree with von Humboldt.
This is one of the prettiest places on Earth without a doubt. The mountains are usually associated with hiking, mountaineering or mountaineering. With silence broken by gusts of wind and the sound of bells hanging from the necks of cattle or sheep. But there are places in the mountains that are also associated with the smell of exhaust fumes and the sound of motorbikes. Because there are places in the mountains that have been created with automobilism in mind and this is just such a place, extremely spectacular. The road called Roßfeldstraße-Panoramastraße.
Alpine road which rises over 1,500 meters at its highest point. It is obviously not the highest road in the Alps, but it is the highest road in the Alps all year round, as others close for winter. It started to be made during the Weimar Republic, it was completed under Hitler's rule, and it is a testimony of what? As a testimony of a certain triumphalism, many viaducts had to be erected in the construction. A testimony of propaganda, but also a testimony of the times in the sense of motoring. It was then that auto tourism was born and a road was made that didn't really lead anywhere.
It is just such an alpine loop. Well, thanks to this, until today, for 8.5 euros, because this is how much the ticket costs at the moment, you pay downstairs, we can enter a mountainous land, usually inaccessible to motorized people. Is it an exorbitant price? I'm talking about 8.5 euros for these views.
Well, a thousand times not. I understand that many people associate mountains with silence, and let most of the mountains be quiet. But let's not forget the history of motoring as well. This is where the famous Edelweiss race, or edelweiss, took place. Even
today, it is organized, although it has the character of only racing oldtimers. Well, a tiny fragment of the mountain and this loop. Since it is, so be it. It is a great pleasure to drive on it. I wish I was a convertible here, I mean I don't have any convertible, but I could rent it possibly. Well, if you like tight curves, if you like a ride that also shows you the beauty of the world, then you have to come here.
This ... I'll make room, it just has to be fun. But it folded up nicely at the bend. Yes, I only use a scooter for two-wheelers.
Well, I would probably go uphill here for two days, but Andrzej Bobkowski would even cycle this road. In any case, also in winter, it must be divine here. Is there any food that has not increased in price over the last few months, but has become cheaper? Well, there's only one thing, that's salt.
Yes, only the salt got a little cheaper. But this is a completely unique situation , because remember that for centuries salt has been one of the most luxurious goods for mankind, for man. Why? Well, I've talked about it a million times, but it's worth repeating again. Salt preserved food in the pre -refrigerator era and was once as valuable as gold. So any region that had salt was a rich and famous place. And this is the history of this area, not only of Bavaria, but also of the neighboring part of Austria.
Well, because in Austria we have Saltzburg, after all, the salt city, we have the Salzkammergut, a whole region with very old salt mines. And there was salt here as well. It was obtained either by digging rock salt or by using brines, i.e. by rinsing the salt with water. And it has been since Roman times. And this is the most important place in this part of Bavaria and throughout Germany.
In addition, an extremely famous spa. Because if we have salt, we also have graduation towers. We also have inhalations. What is this place? Bad Reichenhall since the 19th century, a spa place as famous as Karlovy Vary, and Baden-Baden, or also Ciechocinek, Ciechocinek, Bad Reichenhall. Alte Saline, or Stara Salina. This is the building from the 19th century.
And it was there, already in the 19th century , on the initiative of the Bavarian King Ludwig I, a museum of technology was established. A technique, especially one that focuses on obtaining salt, delivering it to tables or to a graduation tower. This museum works all the time, and everything here looks almost as if the Bavarian king had it in a moment, anyway, but one from the mid-nineteenth century, more or less counting, to visit.
Beautiful place, beautiful place. It takes an hour to see it. I haven't talked about that yet. There is a salt mine in Berchtesgaden, very old.
Also to visit. In the outskirts of Bad Reichenhall, which looms down there, we have the valley station of the cable car. Well, of course, the cable cars in the Alps are normal, but this cable car is unusual. It is the only one of its kind in the world. Yes, the oldest all-year-round cable car in the world, looking the same as when it was put into use. This car is original.
Everything here is original. See how these windows open. There are just maybe thongs.
Well, I just think that these ropes, or at least I hope they change from time to time. This is what it was at 28. It is not a cheap pleasure as a one way adult ticket was 49 euros. But for this money they preserve it all, keep it in this condition. So don't forget. Predigtstuhl-Bahn, this is the funicular.
My ears are blocked because we are going to a height of 1,000, almost 700 meters. Well, impressions, such views. Bitte. Bitte, bitte. Well, just a stunning panorama of the Bavarian Alps.
You can see two bands from here. Namely, Berchtesgadener Alpen and here the Chiemgauer Alpen. Where are we? We're at the top station. It is not only a terrace, but also a restaurant.
Well, since we are here, 10 minutes separates us from the summit and everyone recommended us highly. Besides, the ticket cost so much that you have to make the best use of it. The exit is not at the specified time. We can go here and sit as much as we want within the duration of the cable car. One more useful information.
We were late. Our reunion was ... rather the first trip without prosecco on board.
By noon they serve a glass. 9 minutes you can drink in peace. 9 minutes, this is how long it takes to go up. We have already reached the top of Predigtstuhl on foot. Well, basically yes.
Exactly 1,614 meters. And it is here. A moment ago we were looking at the Alps that were piled up in front of us. And now a view to the other side. Well, here we have the very foothills of the Alps and the place where the Alps end.
Because what's in there? Like the gate to the Alps. That city on the horizon is Saltzburg. Here is Austria. But just a little, just a little walk, literally 20 meters, to have an infinitely beautiful and just such a view in front of you.
There all the time deep into this magnificent massif. The Alps greet you warmly. There are two places to eat up here and most go the other. The latter is Almhutte, or mountain shelter.
Rustic, but I was delighted with this place, because it looks exactly like when it was opened in the twenty-eighth year. A wonderful room. Since then, not only the funicular has been in operation, but also this restaurant and the mountain hotel here.
The menu is a bit different than in 1928, but you have to know that in the mountains, in this part of the world, many things look very similar, so crosses are placed on the tops. Not only on Giewont. And here was the cross. And in the mountains, local cheese is fried.
Here it is oscypek with cranberry, and here it is Bergkäse, a mountain cheese that has been coated and fried. Its intense, extremely intense aroma pierces through the layer of a very elegant lady, you can see immediately that it is not a frozen supermarket cheese, ready-made. See how it melts beautifully.
But why did I say it's not like it was in 28? Because then they could also bread and fry cheese. Very modern and trendy accessories. Namely, here we have fig jam, which is something that was not available in Europe in those years. Namely quinoa, or quinoa. Extremely healthy grain from South America. And a very hipster chard salad aka beetroot salad.
Yes, these are beetroot leaves. But okay, to the point. Such a fig jam should perfectly match ...
This is how it looks like the rope of this cable car. Luckily, it's not made of cheese. Thanks to this, no one has fallen into the abyss here yet. What an elegant napkin. Everywhere, not only in the mountains, but in the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Hungary.
Roasted syr, in Hungarian ... I know rántott sajt, and here is gebackener Bergkäse. Great, plus, even if you drive a car, it's 0.5 here, so one small beer is lost. I don't know what to look at first. For food or a panorama of the mountains? But if I had sat down a bit differently, and sat down specifically for the camera, I could have both before my eyes. And that's what I recommend to you. In this idyllic neighborhood, it is hard not to mention a character that is by no means idyllic.
Namely, about Adolf Hitler, who had two residences here, in the immediate vicinity. One of them, the so-called eagle's nest, is still standing today. This is now a teahouse. It has the form of a mountain, stone shelter.
But Hitler was there only a few times because, in addition to many other phobias, he also suffered from a panic fear of heights. On the other hand, the second one, the one known from color films, where Hitler plays with the wolfhound Blondi, walks on the terrace with Ewa Braun overlooking the mountains. Nearby, both more or less here is the so-called Berghof on top of Mount Obersalzberg. Well, on the top ...
On the slope. Thanks to this, Hitler was not afraid of heights there. The Americans blew it up so that there would be no neo-Nazi pilgrimages there. And rightly so. What to cook here? Having disconnected from Adolf.
Well, you have to cook something Bavarian here and something that Hitler would not like, or something that he would not eat at all. What did Hitler not eat? Well, he didn't eat meat because he was a vegetarian, so here I have the same local classics that will turn into one great Bavarian classic. I bought this at a butcher's shop. This is a necessity article here. Namely Leberkäse.
This is such a large block of peculiar minced meat, because the meat is minced with the addition of ice cubes to make it completely smooth, fluffy, and it is served warm in buns and slices of it. This is the basic fast food here, delicious, and you can also buy it cold to heat it yourself. So Leberkäse. In addition, three types of bratwurst are the classic bratwurst. It's a bratwurst with cheese. These pieces of cheese shine through in the middle, and it's just bratwurst spiced with curry, which is most often used to make something called currywurst.
And two important additions, namely sauerkraut. Pickled with the addition of white wine. First, and secondly, a potato, although already five kilometers away in Austria, Erdapfel would say.
So we start with ... Because I only have one pan. We start by making bratkartofel, i.e. fried potatoes. There are two schools of doing these. Well , you have to either boil them in their jackets, and then cut them into slices and fry them. But then, if we don't have a good variety of potatoes, the potatoes are bound to fall apart.
But you can also do what I'm going to do, which is to take raw potatoes, peeled and diced them. Then they will definitely fry. So first that little cube. I have quite a lot of clarified butter in the pan , and you have to make a test to see if it is properly heated. This is. So we throw it all in and fry, but it's best covered, so that the potatoes get the temperature not only from the bottom of the pan, but also from the one that is created as a result of closing.
Not salt for now, these aren't fries, but a very similar technique, except that it's not deep fat, so it will be fried and stewed at the same time. We cover and control the thing. Wine cabbage, as I mentioned, its name is Weinkraut or Weinsauerkraut.
Never, ever do it here with the carrot. And she is delicate in taste. Which doesn't mean it shouldn't be seasoned. I added some cumin here.
Now you need to add some salt here. And just like with us, you need to add oil here, but I found a phenomenal oil in place. Namely, this is regular rapeseed oil, but with a cumin infusion. See what a nice color it has. This is cold pressed canola oil and this caraway infusion.
Anyway, okay, I won't be groundless. I have to, but I have to try it because I am a cuminolub. All those who do not like cumin should start with this.
Lovely. They just think they don't like cumin. Maybe these grains are bothering them. However, if they tried it, they would love cumin like a bright thread.
Okay, let me mix it up in a moment. A beautiful action takes place here. Yes, they catch the color, i.e. they fry and stew at the same time.
And I hope they don't bulge. Perfectly. You just have to ... See what a beautiful color they got.
What now? Salt, not yet, because I will salt it already fried, now a little cumin and literally a few more shakes, so that the cumin would also gain temperature and that it would all be one. It is fried and stewed. Okay, not to be groundless.
Okay, unsalted potatoes. But I'll salt myself here. This can be left in an alpine meadow. Some salt. Is it soft? Soft, but let them come from the other side. Literally a moment.
Should be OK. It is very good. I will not need the lid anymore.
But I will need a slotted spoon, because here I will be left with some of this clarified butter, and very good, because I will need the pan. Fried in a fairly large amount of fat, so on a paper towel. I'll just salt it here in a moment. It won't get cold very quickly. Anyway, the action awaits us quite short.
Namely, we will be frying more things. Some cumin is left, but it's okay because it will add flavor to the whole thing. See quite a lot of fat. And now on this ... There's another piece of potato here.
And now we fry on it. Leberkäse. And after the sausage, one bratwurścik, the second bratwurścik and the third bratwurścik.
Here, now, now. There is still room. Okay, all the fries.
I don't know if there will be any space on the plate. In any case, it is fried. The action is really fast.
The potatoes didn't have time to cool down. I'll make some more space for the sausages. Yes, because the leberkäse is beautifully fried. Well, let's put it on a paper towel too. And a repetition of the other side, where there was no room.
Okay, this is coming. So now the portion. Let's start ... Okay. No, not because it's still hot. Let's start with a portion of cabbage. Cabbage salad.
If it were stewed cabbage, a so-called crib could be made. What is this pretentious name? They once wrote that something was resting on a crib with something in the cards. Pretty pretentious, you will admit. Yes, we have it next door. Okay, now potatoes.
Pansy pot. Hot? Hot. Here's a portion.
Very pretty. So what? Leberkäse and sausage. Will there be any room for anything else here? It will be. Leberkäse.
Okay. I take them off too, but first I put one specimen of each species. So plain bratwurst, now bratwurst with cheese, with cheese like some would say. And now the least playful curry. These are waiting. They will not be wasted, do not be afraid.
Mustard for this. Remember that this cannot be the sweetest Bavarian mustard, as it is only used for sausages cooked for weisswursts. But this one is also sweet, although a little different.
Munich mustard very decent. A decent mustard. What to do? What to do? Just do it. No, before I can deconstruct it, I have to show you how solidly I am here. Okay, I miss a mug of beer, but the beer is down there in the valley. Have a look.
This is what the village where we are staying in looks like, it's called Insel and it doesn't stand out in any particular way. I mean, it is pretty like almost every village in this part of Bavaria, but it is not in any guidebook, there is no dazzling monument or thermal springs here. Why did we choose her? Well, every place with a more famous spa is simply more expensive.
And it is not only that the place is very nice, it is also an excellent starting point. Hence, it is close to this area everywhere. Well, now let's take a short walk around the village. The tour of the village revealed the following facts.
Well, there are restaurants in it: Thai, Italian, sushi bar, two Bavarian restaurants, imbis, i.e. a place with sausages, but those where you do not stand, but just sit. I'm not talking about coffee shops anymore. And there is also a so-called beisl like in Vienna, i.e. a beer and wine bar with a very short, specific food card. Specific, because focused on what is local. As there were a lot of sausages today so I took the dietary dish.
Namely Käsespätzle, or dumplings that are full of local cheese. I can't get away from this Bergkäse today, but I like him very much. Plus, of course, Schnittlauch, i.e. chives. Fried onion, the dumplings are egg-shaped, covered with this cheese mass. They do the same near the Dachstein mountain, but it's very close to Saltzburg from here. Of course, they also make spears in the Black Forest, but they don't serve them like that.
So what? And in fact, we only touched the surface of local phenomena. So we'll see you again. I'll see you in a week, although we'll be watching Bavarian miracles tomorrow. See you.
2022-07-10 13:24
