Reassembly - Building a Large Bandsaw Mill - Part 19
Hey everyone my name is Matt welcome, to my backyard and welcome back to the series I'm doing I'm filling this big band, sawmill it's, been, a while. If. This is your first time here to be a link up in the cards and down the description to all the videos that I'll bring you up to where we are right, now and speaking. Of it's been a while in the last video it, took apart basically. The entire saw head so, I can get the guards off and get to the beam so I get everything painted and I, start reassembling things, that, video took place last August, it is now the following, June the, mill has been sitting under the tarp that a whole time as I've, been putting. Off finishing, up the work on this thing so, in this, video we're, going to kind of keep going with, the theme of putting. Things back together and I'm also going to start working on some things that, I kind of glossed over and, simplified. And skipped as I, was building the mill because I was really more, interested, in getting this thing operational. So you know logs cut and out of my driveway then, making, everything as perfect or as properly, done as I had in my mind so, let's. Jump into it so. One of the first things I want to take care of is adding, the stops for the carriage so, right now there's nothing that stops the character rolling off the end of the track and what, I typically do is grab a c-clamp, it's clamps of the rail and that acts as a functional. Stop that, prevents, the carriage, from going past that point but, of course that needs to be a little more. Not. Temporarily. Permanent. So. I make some little stops to go on to the end of the track and have this piece of two, by two quarter, wall angle this, is an off cut from when I made my outdoor, fireplace, Susman, sitting around for like four years already, that's me perfect for a little stop I can cut a few pieces about. Four inches long drill, some mounting holes in there and then, mount them to the end of the rails now, reality, is you only really need for, one. Side because, if one side hasn't stops. The other side isn't going to go past it anyway I'm gonna go ahead and make for one, for each corner just. In case might give you some more options for some more things in the future I don't know what but at least they'll be tenant they're all the way and. If I need to remove them because they're in the way how I saw the ones on the other side it's like changing. I, want, to take care of these now because they have a few other things that need to get painted so, if I get this things made I can kind of put those in with the batch of stuff that's, gonna get painted they kind of consolidate. Things that hopefully save a little bit of time and effort. So, here is the first batch of painted, parts are we putting on the mill so I have these stops which I just made I also have the lower thrust, bearing supports, for the lift mechanism and, the. Bearing caps the, motor electrical, box and this, little just there post that holds the adjustment, arm for the blade. Guides so, I'm gonna start by installing a little, stops here so, I can finally remove my temporary, /, permanent, stop which, is the C clamp it's been out here for like 18, months and install. The actual, stop. Onto. The, track here. So. Now there is a permanent stop here so as the carriage comes down the track the, upright will contact this stop and I won't be able to go past the end of the track thereby. You know falling, off of the whole track now, this. Doesn't really get used that often this is more like an emergency, stops so no real reason to put any kind of padding on here anything really. Should be contacting, this during. Normal operation, as you're coming back and forth on the mill and last something, gets away from you and this is more like an emergency stop so, something. Bad doesn't, end up happening so the next thing they go back on is this adjustment, support post this, is gonna get bolted on to the beam and that's actually gonna hold the adjustment, post down. Here which operates, the blade guide on the, idle side so, this, used to be welded to the beam the life of this whole thing apart I did disconnect, this thing and I, did drill holes through it before I, actually cut it free that way things will stay aligned after, the hole bolting on process, so I have some pilot holes in the beam already so, I'll have to do now is just enlarge them to the right size and tap, them for the bolts. So. We need to start working on getting the lift mechanism back, installed, and that's, gonna start off with installing, these bearing, plates on the bottom of those little platforms, down there where that kind, of temporary, support is right now, but. It's gonna be kind of hard to actually, tap and drill the holes with the guards there so, I wanted to remove the guards but, before I remove the guards, I want, to replace these little latches that I installed last.
Time And as you can see they do not hold up very well to the forces, that I need to be there to keep these doors onto, the, actual guard assembly so, I want to replace these with something a little more durable, so. I got these, all-weather. Kind of rubber draw. Straps which. Should be able to provide a lot more clamping. Force to the guard doors keep, those things in place and. Yeah. I'm not too worried about the hooks he's only like a couple, bucks maybe a dollar to a piece he's, a little more than me like seven dollars a piece but. Should. Provide a much better result than what. I have right now. So. These straps are a lot better than those latches I had on there previously so. I'm pretty happy about that so next, I want to start working towards, getting this whole lift mechanism back in there and to make the whole process easier I'm, going to strip off all of the guards and while I'm taking things off of here I'm gonna pull off these. PV. And can't talk holders that, way I have those things kind of in the pile for the things they're gonna get painted for, the next round of things they're, gonna be painted. Whatever. That I remember. So. Now I'm ready estar working towards getting the whole lift mechanism reinstalled. Which starts off by installing these bearing, holders at the bottom there onto those platforms were, those. Posts, that are currently supporting, the beam are, sitting, so, before I can get, to install these. Bearing. Holder plate, support, things, whatever. You want to call these things thrust, bearing support, plates, something, like that I have, to remove the. Temporary posts, so, I have to find, a different way to support, this beam temporarily. It's before I move these last year I did Center punch the hole locations so I can get this thing back into exactly, the same position to, make sure those lifting. Rods are aligned so now I have to do just find the punch holes from, like. Months. And months ago, and, then. Drill and tap. Those. Holes. So. This side looks like he's only gonna get two bolts because this, adjuster, post support is, in the ways I can't drill back to the mounting. Holes back here cuz that's in the way but it doesn't really matter because these. Bolts is kind of keep, the bearing. Plate kind of in place once. There is weight on top of it from the saw head sitting on it it doesn't go anywhere I just. Have to resist any kind of torque or anything because, the bearings take care of that it's, really just getting bolted, here so that kind, of as you're putting this thing together this. Play doesn't kind of walk around on you. And. While I'm over here also reattached, the nut retainers, which, hold the Acme nuts which are part of the lift system. And. Keeps looking like it's gonna rain again today, it was raining this morning and then, it's been raining on and off all afternoon but I kind of want to get started on this and of course it's. A plane flying overhead now but anyway. So. This morning I took the, step. Shafts, and the, ackee rods and got the keyways, cut into them so a big THANK YOU to Carson, for helping me out with that he used his mill to cut, all those key ways for me so. We cut the key ways in both ends of the Acme rod to made up with those couplers don't. To worry about those set, screws trying to grab and slip anymore and they also replaced, the key ways that I had ground with, an angle grinder into, the step shaft so I have actual, proper. Fitting key ways in those, as well so again, big, Thank You Carson I really appreciate, you. Having me out to the shop so I have. All the parts I need now I can start reassembling the. Lift system so first thing I go in are the bearings. Sit. Into the bearing holders there and then I have this cover that I made which, would go on top of there and hope to protect the bearings and keep them free of sawdust, now one thing that I was planning, on doing which it's. Not gonna work out anymore is I did. Pick up some bellows, for, the Acme rods to keep them clean but the. Inner. Diameter on these guys are, too. Small to fit around the. Couplers, apparently. So, I have. To order some new ones and, I don't really feel like waiting for new, ones to come in to keep going with this so. I'll have to take this apart and. Redo. That at some point, but. That's alright, I'll. Just have to wash these things a little bit better because the bellows is going to help to keep everything super. Clean. So, to, keep, sadhus. And stuff out of the bearings let's, go we'll ring here which will slide on to. The step shaft and now help kind of seal things up. Against. That, cover. Hey. Can. You slip down there like that and that should help to keep a little bit more on the clean side. So. Now I can move on to the top section of the lifting columns and one of the things I need to do here is actually cut these shafts down to their final lengths when, I originally installed these I just left them long just in case I want to do something above, the carriage system but, now that I have the designs finalized.
I Know that I can trim them down to their actual, final length which is to be flush or roughly, flush with the top of the carriage just, enough material, to pass through the bearing at, the very top of the carriage. And. Another thing I'm going to do is weld a nut to, the top side of the, drive. Side lift I previously. Only have one of these on one side but, having a nut, you can grab with a wrench, or with a socket on. Both sides will make aligning, the beam a lot easier because you'll be able to operate both, sides independently. Before linking, it with the chain. So. Here is the driven side the lift mechanism so, it has the two sprockets one, that links it to the other side and the one that links it to the motor, which actually does all of the driving force to actually lift the, saw head up and down and, one thing I'm going to do over here is push out the size of the drive sprocket so. On the motor right now I have a 13-2, sprocket, and then I used to have this 33. Tooth sprocket on here. Which gave me way. More reduction. That actually needed the motor, technically. Has enough torque to drive it out of one to one so, I'm going to swap these 33, tooth sprocket for a 22, to Brock it which will speed up the travel the lift mechanism and, still, give the motor a bit of a mechanical advantage so. There's not the work nearly, as hard. So. I take care of the lift mechanism and, I think the last thing I want to take care of in this video has, to do with the base I want to take care of that now before, I start adding weight to the saw head so, the, issue with the base is two things is I'm gonna take, care of and solve, here. So, first off the saw itself, is too close to my shed that's, just happened to be how, this whole setup, works because when I built this mill this, was all logs right here so I didn't have anywhere to go except. Right here it's, too close to the shed right now so if I had the saw head back. To where I am right now I can only raise the head about I think three feet before, contacts. The. Fascia. Board on this shed there which is something that I totally, forgot about one time I had, the saw had parked underneath there I start, lifting the saw. Head up and saw, had contacted. The fascia on the shed and. Luckily. I had noticed six I hear all the cracking, creaking there's. An airplane flying overhead again, but. I ran over there and turn it off quick but that something's been on my mind for a long time so. I want to reposition the saw a little bit is gonna get me a better approach angle to coming. Down the driveway I'll be a little more in line with the trailer as it comes down the driveway. The. Other thing is my, idea. On these, leveling feet, was kind of flawed I guess, to begin with so. I used, to have the bolts up on these little stainless steel pads which would help distribute, the weight of the saw on to my asphalt, driveway, and. I thought that having the bolt heads on top of here would be kind of nice because if I need to change the the, leveling feet at all you. Know steel on a steel would turn a lot easier than me trying to turn a whole, solid piece into, the ground, and lift up that way so, low friction that was a good thing with the leveling part bad, thing with that is that low friction if any, load is applied or any kind of pull force is applied to the saw bed. At all like as I am when I'm pulling logs on. To the mill it's. Really easy to have the whole bed, just slide and what, ended up happening a lot of times these things slide, and fall, off fizzle pads and land. In the driveway and then, start sinking. So, that's why I added these concrete, blocks just in case these these, both did, slide, off they, wouldn't fall through my driveway and it also gave me a little more height because. I figured, if I'm gonna be adding the hydraulic, stuff to this I'm gonna need a little more ground. Clearance than I had previously and. Just being a little bit higher meant that the last boards off the mill you weren't bending over nearly as far which.
Is Kind, of a nice thing so, my plan for the living feet is gonna go something like this all, of the discs are gonna get a hole drilled in them and then a pin installed that's, gonna go into a hole in the bottom or I guess the top of the bolt the bottom of the foot or whatever that's, going to lock the two pieces together so this slide is one piece like a little more friction up against weirdest thing is sitting on which. Is going to be kind of nice I'm, also going to drill the hole in the bolt a little oversized, so that way I can't, take up any misalignment, if the. Mound. The ground isn't totally flat or whatever so there's a little bit of play, side-to-side this hole isn't deep enough at the moment but. While I move, the whole bed over I'll have the whole thing off the ground a little bit now I'm going to take all the bolts out, sequentially. Drill the holes and then get the new ones installed so the good time for that and, in case you're wondering why I don't have my blocks turns long, wise that's, because it's a lot easier to clean out between all, of the bunks when there isn't some stuff in the way I, always get the comment about dust, collection and the stuff coming the shoot why. I don't put. Down a bag or collect it or do anything with that the. Truth is the stuff that comes and, makes it out of the chute as the easiest stuff to clean up guys, grab a snow shovel and I just felt my wheelbarrow with that stuff I'm. Gonna be out here anyway the longest, and the most ridiculous, amount of time spent out here doing, cleanup after milling is getting rid of all the stuff that ends, up underneath, the bed so. The blocks oriented, the way they are right now kind of across the width of the bed dust so allows me enough space between each block to, kind of slip a shovel in there and get up any kind of sawdust, or any bark or any chips that might be between. All, the crossmembers, in the bed that's. Honestly the most amount of work there is when as far as cleanup goes the stuff that comes out of the chute you, know five minutes it's all gone then, you spend a half, hour out here shoveling stuff up from between all the bunks. Stall. I'm going to end this video here I still have two more leveling, feet to modify, but, I'm not super worried about that I can take care of those pretty. Much whenever, I made a lot of progress in this one a lot of things they're all back together and speaking. Of kind of back together everything. That, I removed, as part of the last video when I went through and painted everything is now, pretty. Much back on there and now, it's all about moving forward so, next time we'll take a look at the whole top section of the lift mechanism well, do all of the chain routing, and the tension. Nerves for the chains and finish. Up everything up there to, complete the whole lift, system, so, all that will come together next. Time so. Thank. You as always for watching I greatly appreciate, if any questions on the sawmill or anything back in the shop please, feel free to leave me a comment supposed to be happy answer the questions you might have until. Next time. Happy. Woodworking.
2018-07-14 07:57
Beautiful workmanship, my friend.
Nice job Matt!! I like the new features you should build a shed for it
Gotta love me a HiLift Jack!
Tremendous amount of work! Nice job!
Thanks!
Great job on the sawmill. Please look into a couple things that will make your life a lot better. The first is called NEVER SEIZE . All of your bolts that are meant to be removable in the future should be coated. Also blue thread locker which is removable if needed, will help lock hard ware that could vibrate loose in time and cause serious problems. And please buy some rapid tap to save your taps from abuse and make it much easier to do the job. I am a retired Millwright with 30 years experience and I know for sure this will help you in the future. Again great job on the mill. I want one !!!
Not sure on the height of your bed but if you ever needed the whole bed to roll (more than the foot you needed) just weld the small piece of pipe at each corner so a trailer jack with a wheel on it would attach/detach same as on any common utility trailer. You could then level it with all 4 corners being independent jacks prior to all the bolts and block final height.
Looking good Matt, Looking forward to seeing it operational and some tree crotch action!
looking so forward to part 20
Finally! Haircut!
Woot . More tapping holes. How to make Matt happy in one easy step!
When are you going to turn this monster into a trailer? Seems like the next step to me, tandem axle, hitch, generator mount and it's done! Great video thanks for posting.
lol that will very likely never happen
Looks great man. Get rid of the bumper jack before it kills ya. Those things have claimed more lives than probably any other tool in existence.
What do you do with all that saw dust?
https://youtu.be/yZ0kvmsrpnM 11:08
Put the tarp that was covering the mill under it. To clean under mill, pull tarp out end. 2 ropes on the tarp to pull it in and out are all you need. While shovels are definitely indispensable, I look at them as an admission i am not smart/creative enough. We as humans have been shoveling since the dawn of time. We have also been using our brains to find any way to get out of shoveling the whole time. There is however an almost meditative state you get into while shoveling. Perhaps it is the new bearded hipster dude yoga, "meditative shovelling and firewood chopping"
Looks like the red paint didn't flow as well as the black. Did you have trouble with the mix? Glad you changed the gear ratio on the lift. Be interesting to see how quick it is.
For whatever reason the red was thicker than when I used the black top coat. I'm hoping that now I'll actually be inclined to use the variable speed on the lift rather than just running it at full speed all the time.
When I do any work in my driveway I just bust out my leaf blower to clean up.
It doesn't look like you used any grease or thread locker on your tapped holes. Aren't you concerned about the threads rusting away on that mild steel?
It hasn't been an issue. I'm guessing the cutting fluid sticks around on the threads after tapping
CV Joint boot.
Re purpose a leaf blower/cleaner to use it as a vacuum for the dust and chips. If you get one strong enough you could swap bag for hose and then put hose directly in a wheelbarrow.
Why not enclose the bottom if it's collecting so much crap?
it's not lol
A lot heavier. Well that paint weighs a lot plus you're not as young as you were when you built it.
I am getting old
It is looking good Matt.............you are so talented.
Some oil for that poor tap, please!
it's there
Leaf blower Great leaf collector should make clean up underneath the bed fairly easy
Are there any obstructions in between the rails? If not you could make slide-out box that you can pull out with your truck. Just a thought
only once the majority of stuff is removed. There's a lot and it's wet
Your energy is amazing! Keep up the great work.
thanks!
I would have gone the extra step on those levelling bolts and drilled a second hole for a grease nipple. Over time they will just rust and possibly seize up. The grease will prevent them from rusting.
That thing is a monster. Nice work.
It’s coming along well. Can’t wait ti see you cut your next slabs.
looks like you need a blower vac.
I have one
I believe I heard you say the cost to build this mill was between 9 and $10,000? With the lumber you sell, how long before you would have it pay for itself?
I spent 8500 to this point. That's around 1500-2000 board feet worth. I don't sell nearly as much as I used to but back in the day, that would take me 3-4 months to sell through.
Where is your hair? For a moment, I didn’t know who you are
Matt, you have a lot of great ideas and its fun watching you implement them.
thanks Allen!
Its all in the details, symmetry, and peace of mind. Great job Matt, always enjoy watching you tinker and improve the sawmill.
Been watching you for a while love your videos and your beautiful wood work hope to meet you one day
Your welcome brother god bless
thanks Caleb!
Awesome, this has been a great journey. Thanks for sharing.
Keep up the good work, it's coming together.
The red airplane is a nice addition makes it look very professional.
It's all about the accessories
I don't know how you manage to stuff so much into one day.
magic
Nice. Since now you have the ability to raise each foot and thus don't need low friction between pads and the concrete blocks, why not bore a shallow hole (5-10 mm depth; width = as much as pads are) in those concrete blocks so pads can sink into those holes and you don't have to worry about the whole thing sliding ever again? *friction = ∞*
Looking good! Reminds me of lambchop though.. “this is the song that never ends, it just goes on and on my friend..”
Some more great updates, Matt. Question, did you happen to see the Email I sent you? It is labeled Patreon. I wanted to send it via Patreon, your website, or Youtube, but I don't see any contact button on any of these anymore.
Yes, just got back from vacation and I'll take a look into it soon
How do you feel about your drill press being the star of the show?
pretty good
15 and a half minutes, or close by. I know I'm nitpicking, but nevertheless. Putting that smaller sprocket WILL move the lift more rapidly, BUT it will INCREASE the load on the motor. (Exactly like starting out in second gear, instead of first.) Only reason I even mentioned this, if someone else saw this, and tried it on a different project. steve
Its Milling time....
getting there!
how do you like your new welder and what happened to the old one?
you must feel good to finally be getting things assembled, love the new features and look forward to seeing you milling wood again.
Hey Matt, Where can I find the ratchet style bolt threader? Love the update on the bandsaw mill! Thanks, Simon.
Matthew Cremona Thank you Matt!!
https://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-tap-ratchet-wrench-97633.html Thanks!
Beautiful work bro
Looking good, keep up the good work and "Happy Woodworking"
"metal metal metal metal metal metal.... Happy Woodworking". Wait, what?? :-)
ohhhhh right. carry on!
there was some wood holding up the sawhead beam at one point hahahaha
Matt, thanks for taking the time to show these details, glossing over stuff takes the value out of it for me. Once again, this makes me think of inventing and building a car, great job.
Put a single ball (bearing) in the hole in the bolt to greatly reduce the friction. Heavy doors use this concept.
I could do that if I had all those tools and a big yard, and lots of lumber... oh wait I have got all that and I am still making coffee tables with pocket screws
hahahahahahaha thanks Ross!
Very enjoyable video, thanks! ....13
Thanks Matt! Nice job!
Is there a reason why you don't apply something grippy to the bottom of the plates on the adjusters? Does the concrete create enough friction to hold them in place?
Matthew Cremona ahh that makes sense.
It should be enough. You'd want to to slide at some point instead of breaking off or bending the foot
I know I bust your chops a lot on the size of this thing. Forgetting that you need oxygen to work on the top so you don't get altitude sickness or the fact that it sits in two zip codes. The thing I realized is, if you build this thing yourself and something breaks, it's a no brainer to fix and saving you $$$ in the long term. Now all we have to do is wait for the price of metal to go back down from the iron shortage. BTW, excellent job and one hell of a design!
One more thing, I received a call from NASA and they assure me that the tilt in the earth's axis from the weight of this is only temporary and will correct itself in just a few billion years. So whewwwww on that.
Beautiful.
thank you Matt . oh by the way cudos on the whole process . of making this monster.
Looking good. You might want to consider putting some grease on the shafts and key way where they insert into the sleeves to keep them from corroding.
Let me know what you plan on doing with the hydraulic system. I have been designing, selling etc fluid power and motion control stuff for over 38 years. I might be able to save you some plumbing, components etc as well as the dough rey me!
I first need to know what Matt plans on using them for, one function I am sure would be to "clamp" the wood against a hard stop. Then what else??? I am not trying to prove anything I am just here to help
Greg Hammond, I would love to see your recommendations for that; hope it gets published.
Matt, I’m sooo glad you took the time to record and edit this one for us! Thank You! You did a great job explaining and showing us many of the details! It’s apparent you still have the enthusiasm and are excited to work on your fabulous Band Saw Mill. It is a Wondrous Machine you designed and built! I don’t have the space nor need a mill, but watching you sure does make me want to build one - haha.
It warmed my ole heart to see the never-seize come out near the end of the video.. :-) some of those other assemblies you put together were begging for a lick of that stuff too! :-) Otherwise, fascinating stuff. Ingenious home build, I gotta say.
hahaha I thought that thing of anti seize would last more than a lifetime but that was before I built an outdoor bandsaw. This might have been the first time I've shown it going on but I've used it quite a lot.
In the construction world we call that temporarily permanent
Did you ever get to use the taps you can use on your drill?
Steve Skouson Calm down... It's OK... We'll get through this... Put down the nail gun... It will be OK... No, the tap won't shatter into shrapnel and kill everyone in sight... Why are you listening to these YouTube dinosaur machinists who spend thousands of dollars and man hours tooling their manual machines when even a bottom of the barrel CNC machine performs faster and more accurately, yet requires just a tiny fraction of the comparable tooling? It's like getting hair styling advice from a bald person. These taps are new technology. They are a hybrid of a tap and a drill bit--threads cut into spiral flutes. Unlike a regular tap, the spiral flutes help evacuate the chips faster and prevent them from binding. They are also not hardened like normal taps are. Instead, they feature a very hard cobalt or titanium nitride coating, which can handle very high friction heat. They will bend and deform before they will shatter.
Answers that, but I'd STILL be nervous. You know how hard it is to remove broken tap pieces? steve
https://www.speedtaps.com special extra fancy taps made to be used with an impact wrench
Matt, PLEASE do not use an impact driver, on taps. they will INSTANTLY break off! Look at all the machinist shows, they either go by hand, or use a SLOW drill press. Most use a tap follower (basically, a spring loaded center) in the drill press, to align the manually powered tap handle. An impact driver, uses impact. That is why it is called an impact driver. An impact will SHATTER a tap! steve
haven't yet. I need to find the socket adapter for my impact driver
nice to see how your band saw is improved and optimized. you impress me❤️
thnaks :)
Hi Matt ! The name of the mill should be put on blade guard, across the centre piece. So my choice for a name is : Big Mama : lol Nova Scotia
Can’t wait for the next video. Great work and enjoyable
Great job Matt! I love the added features. I look forward to seeing it in action.
Nicely done Matt
thanks Thom!
Super build Matt, I suggest liquid penetrate inspection on the welds twice a year, Google non destruction testing
Cant wait to see it back in action
Matt, have you considered building a very light weight roof on the sawmill? I'd consider a small roof with a curtain setup, such that I could attach tarps that can be drawn up into a rolled up position when it's in use, and have the tarps down and secured for rainy/snowy days.
Matthew Cremona Hope something pops up on the market for you guys soon!
I get that, but that's once you move. I'm suggesting you use some scrap wood or $5 in 2x4s to build a small roof on the mill in half a day on the weekend, film it, and have a nice video. Though, I get that it's not your type of content, and you want to get away from the sawmill stuff.
Not sure what I'm going to do once I move. Eventually I'll probably put the entire thing under a roof
I can't wait.
Awesome stuff Matt!
Thanks Fred!
Alot of nice improvements for sure Matt I have to admire your determination, especially drilling and tapping all those holes with a hand drill in .250" material, that is no fun! You could have used a mag drill on this project for sure, although you had some spots to drill that would have been too cramped or awkward to fit one.
One of those things I didn't buy so I could keep the tooling simple. Glad I didn't too since I was able to learn a lot about drilling holes
What is that ratcheting tap wrench you're using? Can you provide a link?
https://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-tap-ratchet-wrench-97633.html
It's a somewhat common tap wrench that's sold under a bunch of brands. The easiest to find one is probably from Eastwood. Part number is #31597. e: nevermind, harbor freight is way easier to find than Eastwood!
Your living my dream while i'm stuck in teaching to pay off college loans....
All the best with it Matt, have a nice day !!!
Excellent, been looking forward to you finishing this project.
It's funny to see you use a different c clamp to hold the stops than the one you took off.
lol I was hoping that wouldn't go unnoticed
TEMPORARY PERMANENT STOPPER Insert a (MATT Laugh) Here
thanks! :)
U are a talented guy. Keeping up the good work bro
Do you have a leaf blower? That might help getting the sawdust/chips out from under the bed so you can get them with the shovel... just a crazy thought I had... The mill's looking great!
Very wide transverse conveyor belt, continually moving the material to left or right (whichever is easiest to clean up).
Maybe a couple of tarps (two because it has to go around the center supports) and pull them out with the truck.
That makes me wonder about a big dust pan that would slide under the whole mill from the end (turning the cement blocks back the other way). With/without wheels. Easier than cleaning out between each of the beams. As long as you empty it out before it gets too heavy to move.
I like the idea - but the amount of times I see Matt "monkeying" around on top of that mill, moving/tweaking logs, I'm afraid he'd wipe out on it...
What about adding thin sheet metal to the underside, angled to one side to create a chute that you can then rinse out with a (high pressure) hose or power washer.
Yeah, now that you mention it, it probably is too wet. Probably about like shoveling snow... oh well... next crazy idea is somewhere in my head waiting to pop out... lol
It's usually too wet. I'll shovel out what I can and then blow or vacuum the rest
Your work is incredible! How do you make most of your income? Just woodworking and videos? I'm trying to work on my own small business using the trades I have learned in jewelry, woodworking, and other forms of metal work. It's inspiring to see others who have turned their own passions and skills into a family supporting business. Your videos have helped me greatly! I even built my own jewelers bench using skills I learned from watching you
Matthew Cremona that's awesome! Way to go!
Thank you! yes, just from videos
gonna have it finished and perfect, all assembled then have to take it all apart for transport to the new local hahah
Matthew Cremona, you hinting that you have a friend with a helicopter? Gonna be hard to wait for THAT vid!
lol I won't be taking it apart to move it
Hi Matt,
Wait, you have a bandsaw mill?
it appears so
Good to see the reassembly coming along! I'm sure the added features will be nice.
Now you finally have room for that jib crane!
Great job on the mill. (BOOM) nice shirt.
✈️✈️✈️✈️
Use a leaf blower for cleaning under the bed
Gonna make a machinist out of you yet. When we see you checking your wood turnings with a mic, we'll know that we got ya! ;-)
While you’re looking for a new place. Check out Northern Kentucky. Home of fast women and good looking horses.
I notice that when you are milling metals with a drill, you do not use lubricating oil on the drill bit as the operation is proceeding. I always thought it was a good idea to lubricate the tool during the process to ease the work for the bit and keep it cooler. Do you have other information about this? What are your thoughts? Things are looking good. Best of luck with the rest of it.
I thought the same thing!
It does my heart good to see a young man using anti seize on threads. As a long time aircraft engine mechanic (now retired), I used anti seize on many, many mechanical processes. If there's a chance you'll ever remove a mechanical fastener, anti seize is generally never a bad idea. Congratulations a fine mill with incredible capacity and cutting precision. Thanks to my wife for letting me binge watch all 19 sawmill videos in two days. I guess I better get my 1/4 sawn white oak milled and cut to size to complete a military retirement gift. No excuses now;-) Thanks again for the great entertainment!
Also, how about an arch like you have on your trailer, that pivots up from under the track for looading logs on bed. then folds down out of the way of tbe carriage.
Did you never consider using hockey pucks for the carriage stops?
In case someone doesnt watch all of these you need to go back through your video and put the link to the plans in all of the descriptions if someone decided to buy the plans while watching an earlier video.
Matthew has GIANT nuts!