LENS vs TELESCOPE for Photographing Deep Space

Show video

This is an inexpensive lens from TTArtisan.  This is a medium priced refractor telescope   from William Optics. And this is an Ultra Premium  lens from Canon. All of these can be used for deep   sky astrophotography, but what's really the  difference? That's what we're going to find   out tonight. I'll be pointing all three of these  at the Flaming Star Nebula in the constellation   Auriga in a single night shootout and sharing  all my thoughts with you on what I find.

Hey, my name is Nico Carver and I'm a deep sky  astrophotographer. This video was the result   of a question that I often get which is: why get  a small refractor telescope for astrophotography   when there are so many telephoto lens choices  in the same focal length range of around 200 to   500 mm? And it's a good question and with this  video I'm going to try to answer that as best   I can using these real world examples here. So  to give a bit of a spoiler it's not just about   the final image or image quality. There are a  lot of practical reasons in terms of focusing,   compatibility with other astro gear like mounts,  and other astro accessories like filters that   make the small refractor desirable if you're  really getting serious about astrophotography   especially deep sky astrophotography. But camera  lenses have their place too and they offer a lot   of versatility if you're not all in on Astro and  they come in all kinds of different price points   so I thought it would be interesting for this  video uh with the two lenses to compare a lens   on the low end of price the TTArtisan 500 f6.3  with a lens on the high end which is this Canon  

100 to 300 RF 2.8 before I jump into the review  let me share a couple quick disclosures this   TTArtisan 500 f6.3 was sent to me by TTArtisan for  review same thing with the William Optics SpaceCat   61. William Optics sent this to me for review.  The Canon 100 to 300 f2.8 RF lens I rented from   lensrentals.com and that was done with proceeds  from my patreon campaign and then finally the   Sky-watcher GTi Mount that I used for testing  these is on loan from Sky-watcher USA so thank   you to all these companies for the opportunity  to review their products here on the channel. I   really appreciate it and allows me to make cool  videos like this. So the first thing I want to  

talk about is what goes into an astrophotography  kit that's going to work with optics like these   300 mm focal length um you know in the case of  these two and 500 mm focal length in the case of   the TTArtisan is a long enough focal length in  all these cases that for deep sky work meaning   taking pictures of nebula galaxies you're going  to want a tracking mount you don't want to do   this untracked and you're probably also actually  going to want an autoguiding system with lower   focal lengths like 135mm you could just use the  tracking mount or maybe even go untracked but for   300 millimeter and up I would suggest the tracking  mount and an autoguider and what is autoguiding?   It's this thing right here it's this tiny little  telescope a separate telescope from your main one   and also a separate camera that goes with the  tiny telescope and what this does is it makes   the tracking Mount more accurate by looking at the  stars and doing a fast refresh like every second   it's taking a new picture and if those stars  move out of place it sends a small correction   to the tracking Mount so the autoguider and the  tracking Mount work together to allow you to take   long exposures several minutes long without star  trailing you get those pinpoint stars and that's   what's really needed in astrophotography to  reveal these dim objects in deep space like   the Flaming star nebula that we're going to  be looking at tonight telescopes and Telescope   mounts like this Sky-watcher Star Adventurer  GTi or these zZWO harmonic drive mounts use   different dovetails than is standard with regular  photography and what I mean by dovetail it's like   a the mounting plate like an Arca-Swiss plate  in regular photography the version of that in   astrophotography would be a Losmandy plate which  is a wider plate or a vixen plate like I'm using   here and these Vixen plates are dovetail plates  are called that because they were popularized by   a Japanese telescope manufacturer called Vixen  still around makes mounts and telescopes but   mostly for the Japanese market so step one to even  get the lenses onto the tracking Mount is we need   to buy a universal Vixen dovetail plate and some  specialty machine screws called quarter inch cap   head hex screws in the right length to attach  the lens uh foot here to the dovetail and we   have to do all of this just to get it attached  to the Mount but we still haven't figured out   how to mount the guide scope so my solution to  mounting the guide scope with a camera lens is   I get an extra long Vixen dovetail the dovetail  has to again be long enough that I can underling   the guide scope and camera in front of the mount  like this so again with a refractor all of this   stuff is already thought out for you um I should  say an Imaging refractor like this SpaceCat 61   I can just take this out of the package put a  few pieces together attach the whole thing to   my Mount and it's all ready to go with any camera  lens you're going to have to to do a fair amount   of ordering other parts and rigging them all up in  order to use the lens as a deep sky astro lens now   once you get past that hurdle with a lens let's  say you want to use a filter like a Duo narrow   band filter those are very popular today because  they block a lot of light pollution and they let   through emission nebula with the refractor you  can just screw off one piece here on the back   install the 48 mm threaded filter in the spot  designed for It screw the piece back on and then   the filter is held securely inside the telescope  really neat with the camera lens you're going to   have to hope that your particular camera has  some kind of clip-in filter that you want to   use designed for it so if you're a Sony or Nikon  shooter you may find there's very little available   for your particular camera with the refractor  again any kind of astronomical filter is open   to you okay the next big thing is focusing and  with the spacecat refractor this has a really   nice focusing system it's an internal Focus system  that William Optics has patented but then it has   the traditional uh telescope focusing knob and  the 10:1 reduction knob for fine focus control   the SpaceCat also comes with a really cool clear  Bahtinov mask built right into the lens cap this   is an excellent tool for nailing Focus manually by  using a defraction pattern that this mask creates   with bright stars and if you want to automate your  focus with an electronic third party focuser with   a lens you need to find a belt and a s probably  a 3D printed part that will work for that and it   may not really be worth it because once you add  a belt you can't rotate the lens easily well with   the refractor um it's very easy to add a third  party electronic focuser and then rotation for   framing purposes is never an issue here because  it's here in the back behind the focuser and this   manual Rotator is great it even has the markings  um so you can know exactly how far you're rotating   so I've gone through many of the advantages of the  telescope for astrophotography purposes but what   about the advantages of the lenses these ones the  TTArtisan and the William Optics are very hard to   change Focus quickly for fast moving subjects so a  big part of what you're paying for with the Canon   is excellent Optics like top top-of-the-line  Optics but Optics that can also autofocus   very fast and reliably across a zoom range and  this brings us to another point which is focal   length the SpaceCat 61 telescope has a fixed focal  length of 300 mm at F 4.9 and that's it there are   no other options it's just that and but it does  that incredibly well that's what it's designed   to do the TTArtisan is a fixed focal length to  of 500 mm focal length at f6.3 as the maximum   aperture but you can stop down that aperture  with an internal Iris to a minimum aperture   of F32 that kind of very small aperture is not  needed for astrophotography but it does give it   more versatility for daytime shooting compared to  the refractor which has no internal Iris the Canon   has a zoom range of 100 to 300 mm and it can do a  maximum aperture of f2.8 across that whole range   and a minimum aperture of F22 so for regular  daytime shooting that kind of Versatility is   what you're really paying for to be able to shoot  at you know various focal lengths in any kind of   lighting condition bright Sun you know nighttime  dusk whenever it it doesn't matter and with image   stabilization in the lens means it's ready for  anything this is a Swiss army knife of lenses in   terms of the situations you could put it in the  TTArtisan is less versatile you'd probably only   use it on a tripod uh because there's no image  stabilization it only has manual focus but you   can stop it down so if it's a bright day you need  to stop it down you can the refractor is the least   versatile for daytime um but that's of course  intentional because every design Choice with this   telescope was made with astrophotography in mind  it's not even designed for visual astronomy this   is an astrophotography telescope an astrograph  they sometimes call it and I should also mention   the SpaceCat definitely has my favorite branding  of the bunch um at least the most fun branding I   mean look at the front lens cap there and it  even came with a space cat toy with a moving   tail that my kittens were really entertained by  the last thing to talk about here is the actual   glass inside these instruments the quality and  configuration of the glass inside is important   for controlling imperfections that will pop up  in your image and a big one to pay attention   to a big imperfection that's important for  astrophotography is chromatic aberration because   when chromatic aberration is well controlled  due to high quality glass the stars are going   to be all their true color with no color fringing  around the bright stars when chromatic aberration   isn't as well controlled the Stars will have  magenta violet or even multicolored fringing   around them and that can be very distracting  to the final you know impression of the image   if there's a a lot of really bright Violet Halos  the TTArtisan uses eight glass elements and two   extra low dispersion glass elements we don't  know what type those are they don't State the   William Optics uses four glass elements in a  petal configuration and at least one is extra   low dispersion of the FPL-53 synthetic fluorite  variety and FPL-53 is considered one of the best   if not the best and most expensive when it comes  to Ed glass the Canon uses 23 glass elements four   are claimed to be ultra low dispersion although  they don't specify the glass type one element is   a fluorite Crystal lens and they're using actual  fluorite uh that's going to be the most difficult   to manufacture the most expensive and the rarest  way to control chromatic aberration and I believe   Canon is the only big company who actually makes  fluorite lenses uh so even if you get one in a   high-end telescope like a Takahashi that fluorite  lens element was probably sourced from Canon I'm   interested in all this stuff like glass types and  all that but I'm by no means an expert in it for   me the proof is in the pudding and that's why with  these shootout reviews I always get out under the   stars and take pictures with each setup trying to  keep the all other factors as similar as possible   like same Mount same camera to really give you an  idea of what to expect from these different Optics   so let's jump onto the computer and review all  the images taken okay here are the tech details   for this shootout I won't read through these you  can pause the video and take a look if interested   but basically all the gear is the same I shoot  these all in the same night with the object high   in the sky trying to equalize things as much as  possible I also uh changed the total exposure time   for the stacks based on the focal ratio so I can  try to sort of equalize the signal to noise ratio   in the stacks we're going to first look look at  some single exposures with just an auto stretch   nothing done to them and really what I'm trying to  show here is uh the field coverage and so you can   see with actually all three of these uh the field  coverage is excellent and that's something I've   actually noticed with fullframe lenses is usually  there's not too much vignetting with a telephoto   lens and that's true of the TTArtisan here and the  Canon here so we're not seeing much shadowing of   of the corners which is good now with telescopes  it's actually rarer to not have some vignetting   in the corners but the SpaceCat 61 did a really  nice job here with field illumination and I don't   really see any vignetting okay next we're going  to look at the corners and the center of each one   just from a single exposure so here's the cannon  you can see that it's quite sharp in the center   and then we have some Distortion in the corners  it looks like this side is a little bit worse than   this side I think that means there's some kind  of uh tilt going on perhaps probably with how   the camera is connecting to uh the the lens I'm  not really that's usually where the issue is um   it's a little bit better here with the SpaceCat uh  if you look at the worst corner on the Canon it's   right it's this one right here and it looks pretty  out of focus pretty blurry well we're getting a   little bit better correction or actually quite a  bit better with the Space Cat uh again probably   the worst corner is up here so maybe that suggests  that my Canon Ra has a little bit of a sensor tilt   issue um but if we look at the other corners  and the sides here they're just a lot cleaner a   little a lot you know quite a bit less distorted  here with the SpaceCat compared to the Canon   zoom lens now the TTArtisan actually surprised me  because while yes we can see the classic Chromaic   Aberration Violet Halos which I expected with  a $300 lens in terms of distortion it's really   not that bad I mean this is pretty impressive  for a $300 lens now you're seeing fewer stars   but I want to explain that that's not because  it's less sensitive that's because we are more   zoomed in with this lens we we're changing the the  sampling of the stars um because this is at 500 mm   and this one is at three these two are at 300 mm  but I think it's still okay to compare things at   different uh focal lengths as long as you're aware  of what you're looking at now let's move on to the   stacks I tried to keep the processing very minimal  and similar with each of these Stacks here's the   cannon I got the rotation uh quite a bit better  with the Space Cat because the rotation is so much   easier when you have that little rotation in the  back uh than it is you know when the lens is you   the only way to rotate is with the ring and it's a  little annoying so I didn't I didn't try too hard   since I was doing all this testing fairly quickly  of course okay and then here's the TTArtisan and   you can see again yeah it's more zoomed in uh than  these two these are both at 300 mm this one is at   500 mm and you can see with these there's a little  bit of a color difference uh I'd say that the the   Canon feels a little Bluer um the Space Cat feels  very neutral to me and the TTArtisan look looks a   little bit yellower Greener and so I I'm thinking  this is just down to the glass types all of this   kind of stuff though can be normalized you know  changed with color correction especially if you   have a program like Siril or PixInsight you can  use a photometric color calibration I didn't do   that here cuz I think the differences are sort  of interesting to see and then this is the last   comparison and this one I find very interesting  because they are so similar in terms of detail and   what I'm seeing here among these three it's like  Fair really close with the Flaming star nebula now   remember this one is the TTArtisan is at 500mm  while these ones are at 300mm so it's it's not   as sharp as these two lenses because we're we're  looking at something that's much more zoomed in   and these ones are basically matching it but  at a lower focal length however though for a   lot of deep Sky objects who cares right you're  you're you're wanting that Zoom anyways so it's   like why not go for the cheaper lens well why  not there are reasons of course um many of them   I've already addressed in sort of the advantages  with the telescope you know if you're in a light   polluted area and you want to use a filter boom  right away you're running into an issue with the   lenses while with the telescope it already has  that place to put in the filter there's all kinds   and then the you know place for the guide scope  place to connect to the Mount there's all kinds   of reasons why uh the telescope for practicality  beats this $300 lens but in terms of optical   performance there's not a huge difference here now  if you are a pixel peeper and what I mean by that   is someone who really likes to uh go in and look  at the stars up close of course with a lens um   that's you know $300 you're going to see some of  this Violet fringing on the stars and the longer   the integration actually the more time you put  into it the worse that gets uh so that's sort of   an annoyance and once you get really experienced  with astrophotography these Violet Halos really   might start to bug you but if you're a beginner I  don't see any reason why you might not start with   something like the TTArtisan before upgrading  maybe later on to something like this refractor   which is going to again not maybe blow you away  with how much better the image is but when you   really look at those details like the stars here  like if I look at this star right here even zoomed   out I can see this has a really nice natural  blue Halo in this image and in this one it's   sort of muted I don't really see much color um  and the Canon I should say I haven't been talking   about as much but it did very well too um and it  and it should for a $10,000 lens uh but I guess   the Canon I just am including here in case I have  any Watchers who are already into like sports and   Wildlife and have something like this and they're  like well could I use that for astrophotography   and of course the answer is a resounding yes it's  it's a very impressive lens for astrophotography   as well as those other things so to sum up I would  say the Canon is your all rounder if you have this   lens you can use it for astrophotography but  you can also use it for any kinds of other   things the space cat is going to be the one you  want if you're a dedicated as photographer for   all the practical reasons but also because um it  actually will give you the best results if you   really care about things like you know the star  profiles in the corners of a full-frame sensor   which if you're doing something like mosaics or  something that can actually be pretty important   and then the TTArtisan here is the value champ  of course it's it's giving excellent results   considering how inexpensive the lens is okay and  then the last thing I want to show you here is   as I was putting this video together and talking  to William Optics they let me know that they want   to offer a special discount code for viewers of  this channel so if you're interested in getting   a SpaceCat 61 after seeing this review of it you  can head over to William optics.com order it and   use the code nebula photos at checkout for $50  off that telescope um and so again that's nebula   photos at checkout and I'll have links for all  three of these products in the description so   thank you very much for watching hope you learned  something here and until next time. Clear skies!

2024-03-12

Show video