Lena Situations Investigates How Technology Influences Fashion? | VLOGUE | Vogue France
Hello Vogue. Did you miss me? You sure did, a lot. You're always welcome in this apartment, so we can start our Vlogue episodes. After living an incredible season 1, we could discover the basics of fashion. We deciphered the most famous houses. Great designers invited us to their homes to explain their art.
We even traveled to Italy together, and we lived my whole first Met Gala. With all these great memories, I am thrilled to announce that Vlogue Season 2 is open. We've read all of your comments. We look at your messages and see what you like.
That's why today we're going to try to understand and decipher the future of fashion. How technology and fashion live together and influence each other. I take a little coat because it's cold, it's January, and we go. I wanted something poetic, that was magical. Oh. Wow!
Hello Google. This is Bella Hadid's dress that we have in front of us. It touches me. According to Tagwalk, the tech trend is up 13% this runway season alone.
We're obviously thinking of the Coperni dress. You know, that cute spray on dress worn by Bella Hadid. We're also thinking of the pixelated clothes on the Loewe runways, or Ralph Lauren who just launched a collection of clothes on the video game Fortnite.
Speaking of video games, we head straight to Scan Engine to go create an avatar. Hello ! Wow! A place that looks very believable, if I may say so myself. Can we go there? Welcome, let's go! Yeah. Oh! This is the studio, and this is our structure.
170 cameras. That's it. They're all going to take a picture at the same time? Yes, they're all synchronized at 360. Now, what we're going to try to do is make a real fashion picture with this scan only. So we're going to create an avatar for me for a pretty special shoot. Give me a robe.
Let's go. Scan me. Here we go. Let's go.
I'm in a leotard for you. It's perfect, we've got your whole figure because it's so tight. We need to really get the exact shape of your body.
However... the only problem is that it's all black. And so it doesn't have enough detail points for the scan to work properly. OK.
What we're proposing is that we're going to put talcum powder all over you. That will create patterns on the garment that will allow the scan to work. Okay. All right, let's go. We'll have to talc.
It's kind of like the Coperni dress. Now you're creating a bit of a pattern for me so that the algorithm can pick me up better? That's it. Exactly. It's very technical. Then, to simplify, it's true that you've already taken a picture of yourself dressed all in black and that there was just a sort of floating head, because the black didn't stand out enough in definition on the camera. Okay, I think we're ready.
Am I going to be scanned? You walk in that door. I feel very vulnerable to all these cameras. Can you just look into...
Oh! I feel like you shot it. The lights are going out. The technical scan is complete. Now we're going to go get me dressed so we can scan the clothes I'm going to wear. A very nice Balmain dress, I tell you.
You'll be able to do some artistic poses. You let your imagination run wild, what you want to do, and we'll shoot each pose. Shoot me. All the cameras captured a different angle.
This is what will allow us to reconstruct your avatar, having a picture of you from every angle. This is just to show you some of the scan results. For example, this is a person we scanned with clothes on.
You can change the light on him! You can change the light. You can make it move, etc. And if he were animated, we could make him interact with the different elements. One of the points we made for fashion: They're using 3D design software more and more now. It's a little bit new, but basically we scanned their mannequins, so without clothes. Once we have that, we can come in and create the garment.
Then we can adjust the sleeve. To do a hem, I'll come in and push it back. There is a small hand that we see in 3D. You can see here, it materializes the seams, the small lines that you can see. We have a small sewing machine tool here.
We're going to sew this sleeve on this part. And here, watch out, when I activate: hup. You have a little sewing machine tool.
No, but really. Look: sewing machine, here. This touches me. Is this a fake mannequin? No, it's a real mannequin that we scanned and made slightly different. She has eyes that are a little bit wider apart than she had. They've changed a little bit... She has purple eyes.
They changed her figure a little bit too. We got scans too for something different, so for Versace. Okay, Versace. So they had done scans to reproduce statues, busts of statues that they laid out in the space of the fashion show venue. What they brought back was something mega-digital in real life. Yes, exactly.
What I think is great is that there is a mix of the 2 worlds. When you go to watch a fashion show, it's true that there are feelings and things that are difficult to transmit when you are only in digital. But here, the fact of bringing back something that you have built here in the studio, but bringing it back in real life so that people can touch it, see it, I think it's really the perfect mix. Really putting new craftsmanship into something much more traditional. I can't wait to see my avatar. Thank you so much. Thanks to you.
It was very rewarding. The day continues. I'm extremely anxious to see the result of this avatar and the staging that will go with it.
But for now, we go back IRL, in real life, because we will meet another designer called Clara Daguin. She mixes high tech and high fashion. But these are clothes that exist in real life.
Finally, we're going to touch some fabrics. So, let's go. Let's go ! Hello. Hello. You are French-American. Do we kiss or hug?
More like a hug. It's true that we only know you for your bright dresses. I'm not talking about Swarovski crystals or diamonds.
We are talking about real lights. Can we see a little of what you're doing? Let's light up the dresses. Let's light up the dresses. It's crazy to say that.
Let's turn on the dresses. Wait, we light the dresses with little batteries. Oh! I don't know if I can see on camera what we're seeing. Could we turn the lights off? Thank you. Now the dress is completely off. And with this glove that works like a remote control, if I approach with my energy, the glove picks it up.
So it lights up according to my energy? Basically, yes. But you saw, you don't even have to touch it, just approach it. It's already detected. I can't figure out how it works. We have some thread embroidery that was provided to me by Google ATAP.
The Jacquard thread is conductive. It's the conductivity of the thread that's going to make... Okay.
So this thread that we are touching is not at all a simple fabric thread as we know it, it is a whole technology that is in this thread. That's it. Incredible. Do you have a new collection every season? No, for now I've been doing a little bit of my own thing. At your own pace ? At my own pace. It's good because we're talking about the future of fashion in this episode, and beyond the technological aspects, I think there's a part of the future of fashion that's really going to take its time and stop producing so many collections constantly.
We have a lot of designers talking about that. You, how did you get into this? My father is an engineer. He's the one who wrote all the code for all my pieces. So, apart from this collaboration with Google ATAP, I did some web work. I liked the interactive side. Afterwards, I had a course, when I went to the Arts Déco, where we could integrate sensors and microprocessors in objects.
I thought to myself: it could be cool to integrate that into textiles. After that, I was obsessed. I haven't stopped since. There is a dress, I admit, that I've been obsessed with since the beginning. It's this one. The Air dress. I think it's amazing. The Air dress.
It's beautiful. Do you want to wear it? May I? Where do I put my hands? Ah Yes. This is a dress that is made for posing. So here, it's going to be the same thing. As I move my hand closer, I'm going to make the light fluctuate.
Can you see it? You have to turn off the light. Can we turn the light back on, please. Oh! No but it's sublime! I really feel like this is the moment when Cinderella meets her fairy godmother, and she makes her stardust like this.
and she becomes a... princess. There you are today, a princess. I take the examples each time of fairies, princesses and movies. I know that for you it is very rational. There are codes behind it.
But for someone who doesn't really know anything about it, it just feels like magic. That's the effect. On a more rational side, you make the dress with designers and engineers? Yes, everything is done in parallel. That is to say that you have to understand the circuit and at the same time the interest in the embroidery. So the 2 are really done at the same time.
Normally, I work with my father. For this collaboration with Google ATAB, I work with Jonathan who is an engineer from Google. It's a good thing because I still have a lot of questions. We're going to go to the Google office for their collaboration with Koché, and I'm going to see how they work on their side.
Thank you for having me. Thanks for stopping by. You give them my best. I'll tell them.
I'm going back to clothes that don't shine. Hi Google, it's Lena. OK Google, open the door. It's working.
Wow! I knew the Google offices were going to be something, but this is like, a little castle! Hello. Hello. Hi Lena. Welcome. Come on, come with me, I'll take you.
Hello ! Thank you for having us. Thank you for your time. I'm here with my friends from Vogue. We have a lot of questions, because we want to understand how you two met: the technology part at Google and the fashion part with you. My intention was to create a garment that combines technology with couture, but without really sinking into a technological demonstration. I wanted something poetic, that was magical, where the technology appears in a subtle way.
I have a question for Google: why are you doing fashion? You're already big enough, Google. Actually, we don't do fashion. We give creative carte blanche to all kinds of creatives. This is an absolutely unique piece that is Koché's. We just humbly contributed to give access to technology and people to code behind all this technology.
We have the beautiful Delena who is with us, wearing a piece that lights up. It's just sublime. So, it's from your Google collaboration, Koché. Here, we have luminous wire, LED. Is it similar to what we saw at Clara's earlier? Yes, it's LED here too.
The real difference is the integration of the screens. Yes, exactly. I'd like to understand how you integrate a screen into a garment. House secret. Trade secret.
It's the Google recipe. We have some pieces for you as well, if you ever want to try some. Oh, good! Yes, there are 4 pieces in the collection. Let's try them then. I'd love to.
I changed my clothes. I was told that the outfit was not complete. Add your poetry to me. In fact, there is poetry and magic. Oh. Look at that. There, that's really shiny.
Is that a different technology? It's laser. Yes, so that's why, there's a little bit of retinal persistence. You see it's not the same as when you look at LED. There's another thing I see with little green LEDs on. Those are Soli radars.
It's the same as the big radars you see on aircraft carriers, except it's completely miniaturized. It's half an inch long. You'll see, if you get close, it picks up the environment and the speed of things moving ahead. This radar will pick me up? That's right. That was the device that was in the parade.
There was this whole idea of events that react, that also create something, an experience, and that interact with the environment and with the public. That's what you're going to do when you watch this video: a little thumbs up. For you, what is the future of fashion? The future of fashion? It's clothes that are beautiful, but that can also share emotions.
I think there are still many things and opportunities thanks to technology that will make us create, continue to create, continue to imagine things together. It is beautiful. Come to my house and turn on all my clothes, please.
We can't stop on this. Thank you very much. Look what we're putting on you to go. Oh, this is not me talking.
This is the screen telling you what I'm thinking. I'll see you soon. Hi, Lena. You might recognize this place.
For the true fans of the Vlogue series, we had filmed our first episode of season 1 here in these offices. For us, it only made sense to return to the same location for the first episode of season 2. And it especially since we get to go meet, the 2 geniuses behind Coperni. I did not lie to you. Hello.
Hello. I'm so excited! How are you? I am fine. Hi.
It's great to see you. Oh yeah. Today, what we're going to try to figure out with this episode is what is the relationship between fashion and technology? Are you guys still as inspired by technology? Absolutely. Especially since it's really our everyday life. We're really surrounded by technology all the time.
Me, what I like is to tell the world we live in. And you, as a young brand, I think it's more of a young brand, but you still say to yourself young designer, young brand, is the future of fashion for you going to hide more in a virtual world? Or is it going to be about getting all these messages that a new generation has been trying to wear for several years? For us, the future of fashion is really innovation. It's our major passion. Ecology. Consume less, consume better. We have 3 ways to approach technology. Either pure and hard technology.
We've made innovative clothes, with futuristic materials. We'll have to talk about that. All our bags are inspired by all this iconography. In our communication, we love to play with technology. For example, we hijacked Instagram a bit. We created 200 Instagram accounts, and you would get lost in a vortex.
You had to click from one account to another. We do videos inspired by The Matrix, movies we love. And the fabric innovation you were talking about, what is that really about? It's really a passion that we have.
Above all, I think it's a duty as a designer to challenge manufacturers, to try to modify fabrics, to create new fabrics that have qualities, that are good for the body, innovative things. In fact, the base fabric is a jersey that already had some particularities, which is hot, which is technical. Moisturizer for the skin, it's kind of hydrating, and moreover, we went to soak it in a silver bath in Switzerland. Silver blocks bacteria.
The silver molecules actually block. So, it became totally anti-covid. Antibacterial, and you had up to 50 washes. It's like a very thin neoprene. That's it. It's a bit of a technical jersey.
There are leggings, bodysuits. It's very comfortable. It has pockets? Yes, people wear it a lot. Can I give you something? For me, the future of fashion is when we put pockets big enough in women's jeans, in women's clothes.
Because we never have pockets. We have fake pockets. That's what we're asking you. Here, it's technical and it's really innovative. And over there, it's more inspired by iconography or at least the tech, innovative, digital aesthetic that creates like a little hologram of flowers that are blooming. It's kind of like cards when you were young. It's still as fun.
It is sure that in ten, twenty years, we can have fabrics with screens. The screens will be flexible. So you'll certainly be able to buy on your app a flower print, a cloud print, I don't know what.
Why don't we sit around the office and talk about a little moment that happened in fashion this year? Of course we can. In front of us is a room that is the result of exactly what we are talking about. A magical mix between technology, science and fashion. It was a timeless moment.
You sprayed Bella Hadid during this Fashion Week. I'd love to know what went through both of your minds to actually do that. I found out about this doctor who created this formulation, who trademarked this, a very long time ago. We did it in the mode: let's do a little something for fun, I think people will like it. We said: yes, it will be liked because you have Bella Hadid, you create an event.
It's an experience. But we didn't think it would be this big. At the beginning, in the room, we all thought that it was painting. And then we saw little by little as a fabric was created, and a real dress was fashioned.
What was it? It's a product that Dr. Manel Torres is the only person in the world who can make. Basically, when he sprays it in contact with the air and the skin, it becomes rigid. The more you put on, the more compact it becomes.
Look, it looks like... It looks a little like plaster, but... This is Bella Hadid's dress that we're looking at. It's soft like fabric.
Yes. It's beautiful. I was impressed with her. She was crazy, with her movement and grace and everything.
It was just crazy. I find it fascinating. It's still the result of a lot of waking up, I think.
I'd like to understand how you come across it. How do you find all this? It's curiosity. It's the most important thing in life to be curious about everything. I think it's a real duty to do that, otherwise you don't make things evolve.
It is beautiful. I can't wait to see this one in a museum. Thank you boys! Thanks to you! What a day we've just had! I'm back in my little home. I love this tradition.
We're doing episode wrap-ups at home, because we've got a lot of information today. We have to have process to understand a little bit what the relationship between technology and fashion really is. But first, do you remember at the beginning of the episode at Scan Engine? I waited for you to see the result of our digital editorial together. I haven't seen anything yet. Oh wow! But my avatar is much more stylish than me in real life.
It's crazy. They must have gone to a lot of trouble. I could have plucked my eyebrows, though. The dress looks good too. First digital shoot for Vogue. We've done a lot in 6 episodes, guys.
And I never thought we'd end up doing a blog episode that ends with a sort of digital editorial. It's crazy to see how technology is advancing and how many different mediums of creativity are being expressed in more ways. I think for creators, designers, it's a really great springboard. We've seen it in clothing that can really interact with their environment.
At Koché with Google. We also see with Clara Daguin, literally, it is the clothes that will live with technology. Or we can also see a kind of innovation of material, as we saw at Coperni, with this fabric that was completely crazy. Seeing this me there looking at us, it's very embarrassing by the way, I have the impression that this is only the beginning, and that we will be able to go even further in imagination. For example, one day an application will be able to change the color of your shirt, or innovative materials that will be able to adapt to outdoor temperatures.
Or we go even further, purses that follow you like this, that float in the air. You don't even have to wear it. It follows you with some kind of magnetic magnets.
And I'm going a little too far. Tell me if I'm going a little too far. But on the other hand, that's what's so magical about this episode, is that you can see that there are no real barriers, other than the creativity of our designers. There is one very important point that I would like to emphasize, and that is that by talking to everyone and digging through this episode, we realize that the real future of fashion is not necessarily hidden in new technology, but more in a new way of thinking about fashion and consuming it. All have addressed this subject of a more reasonable fashion, a more thoughtful way of consumption and this is perhaps on that the future of fashion is played. This was the first episode of season 2 of Vlogue.
If you only knew what a joy it is for all of us to be able to go meet people, to be able to go visit beautiful places and most importantly to be able to share it with you. I hope you will be present for this season 2. In the meantime, we are preparing the next episode. Thank you all for watching this video.
I hope you enjoyed it. Feel free to subscribe to the Vogue channel to see the next episode, and make sure I get my Vogue cover. We're not giving up on season 2. Kisses. I had a bunk bed when I was little.
You can tell, right?