i started out and own to make clothing differently our jeans are made at the most the world's cleanest our jeans are made at the world's cleanest denim factory using less water fewer chemicals and i forget the last part i started out we're [ __ ] i started out or known to make clothing differently our jeans are made at the world's cleanest denim factory using less water fewer chemicals and organic cottons we guarantee sea genes for life now your most comfortable genes are also your most sustainable sea genes social environmental accountability get yours at outernown.com [Music] imagine if your life was a movie you were directing it what would you do after all this time three decades of professional surfing we raised that footage from yesterday walking through all these different walks of life i almost want people to experience this story that i've had watch this left right here tomorrow it literally could have the waves of the year [Music] tahiti has just always been one of those places that is special it's at the top of a surfer's list of place to go and but it's just an intense place you feel that energy the big huge valleys in the background and the mist in the air and and the sound of the waves breaking [Music] i've been back to eating three years nice to be back here beautiful [Music] i think it's the most beautiful place in the world i've been coming to tahiti since 1993 so 26 years now my first trip here i actually served choco back then too no one really surfed here and they brought us out here and said oh a couple guys have surfed this wave it's like it's super gnarly when it's big the event has been held since about 98 and it was a qualifying event at first and then became a world tour event and we didn't actually even know at that time whether you could surf it guys had seen it really giant and scary but figured that it was too gnarly to surf and then there was one day in the contest when it got just crazy huge and guys were like really going for it and got to see that this is a wave like no other you pull up look we're 40 yards away from wade carmichael taking off on one right now [Music] the ones that break further out aren't as gnarly as the ones that miss it and move inside they get really square and gnarly [Music] the best thing in any lineup of course you want to jump in the water and get a good wave but you have to build up some kind of trust with people in any walk of life and i think surfing is one of the most obvious spots where that happens and at tropo you you have to be comfortable with all that energy the danger of getting hurt honestly most of the bad injuries happen on small days because the reef's so shallow then [Music] [Music] that whole little end of the road is really now built around surfing even though it wasn't originally it was just kind of like the road ends now they have this crazy magical wave out there and it just happens to be at the furthest extent of where the road goes to [Music] 2000 03 05 11. 16. good job the [ __ ] happened all those other years 16 year span there if i could win one next year give me a 20-year span gonna be fun i need to win a conus in 2022 be 30-year span of winning contest i don't think that's gonna happen i'll be too tired and i don't think i'll win one anyways but you never know the town is just very basic i mean there's just a few places to eat and it's mostly homes and big properties little fresh water streams coming out and a lot of those i think those freshwater streams are what has created the channels and the reefs out there on what would be like an atoll outside outside the beach i would consider romano like family he's one of the only friends i have that only facetimes me he never calls me it's never a phone call it's just a facetime he wants to see you brother let's talk rahman is like an unspoken mayor of chopu i mean chopo is his world in the water i'm sure they have a mayor on land but he's not concerned about that too much it's funny because rayman is so chill and kickback but he's also intense papa you okay now okay what can i hug you can't hold on don't touch it get out you look like you're cruising out and all of a sudden the waves said no come this way get slammed by two houses and go to the hospital this way it's gnarly dude you have to when you come out of those toes you gotta go up huh you have to drive you have to better make it [Music] there is a reality that you could die out there on a big day for sure i mean there's just too much speed and energy and if you hit the reef wrong if nothing else you can just chew your whole body up i saw it happen to romana through two toe vests and a spring suit you have to be comfortable with that energy there's a lot of guys on tour that haven't spent the time there you can see just how vicious choco is as that way tubes on down the lines for me personally i'm not going to go out and go he hasn't spent time here i'm going to win this heat that has nothing to do with it it's a different animal for sure ramona parks the furthest out and that's so that he can see which waves are coming from the top of the boat and he can call to his surfers and everyone knows it even the guys who are against you in a heat and there's certain whistles that mean a certain thing and and and he expects you to have put the time in so that you understand where on the reef he's trying to tell you to go you've got to get super deep they're too quick the big ones are too quick exactly like you've got to get those mid-sized ones to get the chip in the difference between a nine and a five five is like two feet yeah exactly clocks just started for the final heat of this round of 32 kelly slater versus jack freestone slater deep on the reef pulls in comes through that first section no problem for kelly slater a mere mortal surfer would have no chance at that barrel but kelly's later making it look easy in challenging conditions jack freestone's opening up his account against kelly slater in a nice room and he likes it as well no hands pulled straight in that was a beautiful way for jack freestone looking at the 6'5 for kelly slater got to be better than that i would think [Music] [Music] oh my goodness gracious me what was that what was kelly thinking that was one of the heaviest ways we've seen today maybe the heaviest [Music] jack freestone slows himself down gives it a pump pulls in realizes he's got that 817 and a second score will put a lot of pressure on kelly slater five-time champ out here at tahiti kelly slater would have come into this heat thinking he would be in this position trailing jack freestone 20 seconds on the countdown slater with priority so he does have first choice of any wave oh he's going slater behind the curtain drives through that barrel comes out standing tall kicks out in the channel and 8.9 is his requirement jack in the back door this section comes flying through the corner here and well he's got the slater against the ropes the horn sounds and it is jack freestone disposing of the five-time tahiti pro champ kelly slater and jack freestone moves on into the round of 16. [Music] [Music] i nailed it for him i got their bow shot oh [Music] well it spits and he's already on the shoulder i don't know how they gave it a nine i mean it didn't matter he already won the show i feel less pressure when i'm getting somebody expecting to do good you know it's a weird thing mean you feel like you're the one who has to perform well just because i've done well here so many times and he hasn't done well so no one really like the expectation is not that like jack's gonna do be like the hard guy to beat you know [Applause] i sort of feel the same way it did after the first contest this year right now which is kind of funny because i know i got out of that pretty quickly and started relaxing and enjoying myself really hoping to nail a good result here you know it's historically been one of my best events on tour and a little bit of a tough pull to swallow sucks you kind of live and die by the sword you know it's like you feel great when you win and you you can feel awful when you lose especially when you feel like those conditions should suit your strengths i haven't quite processed it all yet it's like i'm so excited to do well in this contest so i put a lot of value on this result more than others you know so that's probably the hard thing the surf pod it's my design my new design um i'm drawing it now because i just recently kind of got the real like id the whole picture of like how the design would work in my head and i recently surfed the wave they kind of solidify that idea in my head and then i think here in the near future we'll really have access to different technologies to make any kind of wave design we want i started out and owned to make clothing differently our jeans are made at the most [Music] the world's cleanest let me start from a little bit of history we didn't start off i don't know making any denim any jeans because it's really dirty so we found a place in vietnam that is the the cleanest denim maker in the world and i just had this idea let's just surf in jeans and it kind of represents the clean water you know sort of a symbol of that that's the message we're trying to get across so i just thought yeah i can just surf in jeans and get a nice barrel or something so we filmed a whole bunch of stuff underwater we were concerned that we wouldn't be able to get the shot because there's always so many people at chopu and so many cameras and especially any day the waves will be good so we didn't have the footage we needed even close to what we needed to try and finish this commercial for i don't know we packed up and left chopper for we thought we were just going to go and be gone and the next day we get a phone call choppa is like 10 feet firing maybe there's some waves that are like too big to paddle and there's no one out our one friend khali was out in the water by himself the one behind it i think it's uh it's gonna be eight solid foot right now for kelly three two guys up two guys out and i think kelly's gonna score so all i know it's kelly's day it was las capole was a wsl day it's kelly's day [Music] i know this always a part of it [Music] [Music] [Music] it was one of those things it was meant to be it wasn't the sunniest most perfect day but you know the wave that i got little toe in on a you know like an eight-foot wave at chopua with a just it was perfect just really perfect day so i don't think it could have been much better than that but it's nice and open like a good direction the wind is perfect where'd everyone go i don't ever went home it's kind of crazy [Music] i know there's a part of me i know [Music] yeah i dropped a couple spots down the tent i'll probably stop thinking about it as much now my goals would be just to relax and just surf like i surf i'm not on the same journey i was at 20.
i would surf here again for probably the foreseeable future if i you know if i don't choose to compete next year on tour i'd still love to have a wild card here yeah everybody's happy it's different if you have goals or if you want to have no stress or whatsoever i mean a certain level of stress is good because it motivates you it's just too heavy i think i got too much [ __ ] going on in my life yeah sell everything and buy a boat and then what sail around tahiti get really good waves for a couple years oh that storm's weird no one's getting out of here on sunday monday fernando worked really hard to get it in the olympics and now we're there as far as whoever wins the gold medal in surfing they'll quickly be into the most well-known surfer in the world you know just out of respect you can just go see the right people get their blessing on where you serve we named a wave that we never heard exactly that's what the spirit of the olympics is to bring all the different countries together oh my gosh a barrel wave right there team usa and that's in brazil want a pace [Applause] you
2022-07-26