Building a Fixed-Wing Drone with 3D Printing | Stallion

Building a Fixed-Wing Drone with 3D Printing | Stallion

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This is the Stallion, a fully 3D-printed  fixed-wing drone. Those who follow us may already recognize this aircraft,  but in this video, I will present it to you, in an updated, refreshed version. Like the other aircraft in our collection, it is primarily designed for LW-PLA with additional  components made from rigid filaments such as PETG, PLA or others. The aircraft features a  twin-motor configuration with a single tail boom and a V-tail. Its wingspan is just over  130cm, and its length is just under one meter.

Additionally, this platform can be built in a VTOL  version with a tricopter configuration using tilt motors at the front—but more on that later. The design files are available on our website, which you can find linked in the  description. There, you'll find all the details about this design, the aircraft's  geometry, technical data, printing guidelines, and a complete list of required materials  and electronics for assembly. The user manual includes an illustrated build guide, a  list of all files in the package, and more. All our aircraft can be printed on 3D  printers with a bed size of at least 220x220mm and a minimum print height of 200mm. The files include different variants to

accommodate various user needs and printer  capabilities. For example, the fuselage components are available split into left and  right sections, as well as in a single-piece version for slightly larger printers. For this build, we used the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max printer, which features a massive 420x420x480mm  print volume. It’s an excellent budget-friendly option that offers all the essential  features, such as auto bed leveling, a high print temperature of up to three hundred celcius  degrees—allowing for the use of durable materials, including carbon fiber-reinforced filaments—and  a fast print speed of up to 500mm/s.

With some effort, you could even print the entire  Stallion fuselage in one piece using supports on this printer. A link to Neptune 4 is also included  in the description. Several Neptune 4 variants are available in different sizes, in case you  don’t need such a large print volume Let's move on to the assembly. It starts with gluing the fuselage together. The prepared version is split into  left and right segments. To simplify alignment, 2mm holes serve as guide pin slots, allowing small  filament pieces to be inserted. Once aligned, the parts are bonded using thick CA glue. This  step doesn’t take long and is even quicker if

using the version without the left/right split. For the last fuselage segment, a component responsible for mounting the tail boom is glued  in. Printed from PLA, but other rigid materials can also be used. The part has a flattened  bottom and a guide on top, ensuring a fixed orientation relative to the fuselage. One  side features a threaded section, later used for attaching the tail to the fuselage. After that, the fuselage assembly continues.

Next, glue in the reinforcement elements for the wing-fuselage connection. These  parts are also printed from PLA. The battery pad is mounted in the  front section of the fuselage, where the battery will later be attached. Now, glue the front and rear hatches together.

Install the hatch locks right  away—these are also printed from PLA. Moving on to the front of the fuselage,  press in 5mm threaded inserts for M3 screws, which will secure the nose. A slightly  heated soldering iron works best for this. On the outside, glue the front  reinforcement in place to strengthen  the connection At this point, the fuselage is basically ready for painting. Lightly  sand the surface, focusing mainly on the joints between elements. Now for the tail, Start by gluing the three segments together.  The servos are installed right away. Since the cables will run inside the  tail boom, they need to be fed through and guided out. A thin rod with a hooked  end helps with this. Apply a small amount  of hot glue to the contact surface between the servo and the tail section—this step is optional but recommended for extra security.  Then, screw the servo in using dedicated screws.

With the tail ready, it’s time to  mount the stabilizers. Insert a 4mm carbon tube, slide on the stabilizer  segments, and glue them in place. Next, insert the second carbon tube.  The order here is important since the tubes aren’t parallel—one must be  inserted after the other. Finally, add the V-tail tip. Repeat the process on the  other side to complete the tail assembly. Now, let's prepare the tail boom.  Use a 16mm tube, pre-cut to 430mm,

and fit the necessary components. One side has  the fuselage mount with a threaded section, the other side connects to the tail,  and there’s a knob in the middle. Both mounting elements are flattened  on the bottom, so when gluing them, place everything on a flat surface to maintain  alignment. CA glue works, but epoxy with a longer

curing time is the safer option. Finally, cut out a section in the tail area to make space for the servo cables. Be sure to wear a mask and avoid  inhaling composite dust while doing this. Time to mount the tail boom onto the tail. First, extend the servo cables. Ready-made extensions work well, as shown here, but cutting  and soldering an extension is also an option. Feed the cables through the tube and glue the  tail boom into the tail. CA glue was used here, but since the process requires speed,  epoxy would be a more convenient choice.

For now, set the tail aside and move on to  assembling the wings. A 6mm carbon tube is needed, cut to the appropriate length, and then  inserted through all the wing segments. Gluing the components doesn’t take long, and after  that, reinforce the wing root. Just like with the fuselage, the wing also uses reinforcement  made of PLA or another rigid material. Next, glue the ailerons and rudders together.  These control surfaces can be printed as a single piece, but the example here  shows them split into two parts.

This is the best time to paint the aircraft before  continuing with the remaining steps. A gray primer was used here, as it provides smooth coverage  and evens out minor surface imperfections. Now, attach the control surfaces to the tail  using thin CA polyester hinges. These can be cut from a sheet, purchased pre-made, or replaced with  other flexible materials, including TPU prints.

Insert the hinges into the designated slots  and secure them with a small amount of CA glue. Moving the control surfaces while the glue sets  ensures even distribution and full mobility. Repeat the process for the ailerons on the wings.

Next, insert threaded inserts into the servo mounting points in the wings. This process is  identical like previously in the fuselage. Now, prepare the snap-fit locks that  secure the wings to the fuselage. For this, hair clips—or more specifically, the torsion  springs inside them—are needed. These locks function on the same torsional principle,  ensuring a secure wing attachment. This type of mechanism is commonly used in simple  locks, such as those in thermal mugs. Each lock consists of a base and a top  piece. The front and rear locks differ

in their top surfaces to match the shape of  the wing section they are embedded into. Fit the locks into place and  glue them into the wings. Right after that, it's time to test the locks  by attaching the wings to the fuselage. Take the carbon tubes cut to correct lenghts, which serve as the main spars,  and slide the wings onto them. As you can see, the wings can be attached and  detached from the fuselage with a single motion.

The springs ensure continuous pressure  on the lock, securing the connection. Now, let’s move on to attaching the tail to  the fuselage. This process is just as quick and simple. As mentioned at the beginning,  the mounting element features a guide, ensuring proper alignment with the fuselage.  The thread is divided into two sections, and tightening the knob firmly  secures the tail in place.

A few more steps remain. Start by gluing the  control horns onto both the tail and wings. Next, install the aileron servos. The  servo cover has a dedicated mounting point, so simply screw it in place. Then, connect a servo extension and route the cable through the slot into the fuselage. Each servo cover is secured with four M3 screws.

Now for the motors. This build uses  T-Motor F60 1750KV motors. Here, the motor is already mounted onto the motor mount,  with threaded inserts installed on both sides. Mounting the motors in the wings is quick—secure  them with two M3 screws from the top and bottom.

The motor wires are already extended  and fitted with gold connectors. Insert them into the designated opening and route  them through the slot into the fuselage. Next, connect the servos to the control surfaces  using pushrods. There are many ways to do this,

but in this build, M2 threaded rods  with metal snap links were used. First, measure the length from the servo arm  to the control horn in a neutral position, cut the rod with a slight excess.  One end is bent into a Z-shape, while the other is fitted with a snap Finally, install the LED lights on the  wing tips. 2812 LEDs were used here,

attached with double-sided foam tape in the  designated spots. Cover them with printed covers made from transparent PLA or another transparent  material. The wires run inside the wing and into the fuselage through an internal channel. You can also print a version without LEDs if you don’t plan to use them. The nose section still needs to be installed. There are two default options—one for a standard  19x19mm FPV camera with an internally mounted VTX, and another for a GM3 gimbal from Caddx.  This build uses Walksnail FPV gear, but other systems can also be used without issue. The nose files are available in STEP format,

just like several other frequently modified  components for different cameras, sensors, or antennas. This allows you to customize  your own nose variant for custom equipment. Replacing the nose is as simple  as unscrewing four M3 screws. The aircraft is now complete,  but the final step is, of course, configuring the electronics. We're using  the SpeedyBee F405 Wing flight controller, Matek M10Q GPS, and an ELRS RC link. This  video doesn't focus on that part of the build, but I’ll dedicate an entire episode to  electronics, where I'll cover the necessary soldering and wiring, software installation,  and final setup of the aircraft in ArduPilot. If you're interested in building this or  another model from our collection and need additional help with the electronics, simple  wiring diagrams are available. These show the

recommended equipment layout, connections,  and servo/motor channel assignments. Additionally, our Discord server has a free files  channel where I share various free resources. There, you'll find a param file for ArduPilot  and the SpeedyBee F405 Wing, serving as a great foundation for further tuning. Most importantly,  it comes with a fully documented breakdown of

the configured parameters and explanations of  how they work, which I hope will be a valuable resource for those starting with ArduPilot. We’re already working on new projects and videos that we'll be sharing with you soon. As  mentioned at the beginning, the Stallion is also available in a VTOL version. Flight videos are  already on our channel, and in the near future, we’ll be releasing a video on the VTOL  conversion build, along with more footage of the Stallion in action. If you enjoyed the video, make sure to subscribe so you don’t miss the upcoming content. See you next time!

2025-03-04 19:28

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