BUILD your Own RETRO Machine! (MiSTer FPGA w/ Digital IO Board Tutorial in 2023)

BUILD your Own RETRO Machine! (MiSTer FPGA w/ Digital IO Board Tutorial in 2023)

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hello everybody Welcome to the channel today  we have something very special we are going   to be building our own MiSTer FPGA retro gaming  machine. Now before we start I want to give a big   shout out to the people at MiSTer  they were fantastic and as someone who lives   in Central Europe I was looking for a store that  was not too far. They suggested a list of parts   that I could get from their website and all I had  to do was to buy the parts from them. I got them   within a week. The main part that I needed though  was the DE10 Nano main board that is something   that I bought from a different shop but since  it is also labeled as a research board you can   get that super quickly and all the taxes are on  the main price that you pay on the page so that   was relatively easy as well. All we have to do  now is check a list of parts and start building!

The first and most important  part, your Terasic DE10-Nano board Now, these are some of the goodies we got from   the shop. We’ll  be checking those individually. This is the power supply. For this build, I  got the Mean Well power supply of 5V and 4   amps. This will be more than enough for the  build plus any extras I want to include such   as wifi/bluetooth usb dongle, controllers,  and peripherals. Also in the list there  

is this nice cable for the power supply with  several adapters for different types of plugs. This is the memory module. It is pretty small,   so be careful with it. We’ll be  checking this in detail in a little bit. Next, we have our heatsink for the chip  on the DE10 Nano. I went for the solid   copper version on the shop so I don’t have  to worry too much about cooling the system. A small bag containing several  standoffs for the build,   the buttons that we’ll use later on,  and the little rubber feet for the case.

These things here are very important. We won’t be  using that power splitter cable since our build   will use the digital board and the cables  are slightly different. However, the small   piece you see there is a USB bracket connector.  This one is very important, so keep it in mind!

Oh, here we have our Digital IO board  and a DC to DC power cable that we’ll   be using later as well. This digital IO  board is the 1.2 version and it will be   on top of our build, it includes  the buttons amongst other things. Next we have our USB hub.  This one is the 2.1 version. Now wrapped in this paper we have our  acrylic case. It comes in several parts   that click together and it has a nice  darker tone and labels on every port. There you go, all parts ready for assembly! Now, let’s check our de10-nano board. In the  box we will find some USB cables. Technically  

you can use the DE10 nano without most of the  addons I’m showing you here, but you would   be limited by the board. The de10 nano also  includes a power supply that you could use,   but the power might not be enough in case  you want to use other external components   since it’s only 2 amps, that’s why we  went for the mean well power supply. We can also find some rubber feet  for the brass standoffs in case   you don’t have a case and want to use it  directly. And here it is, the DE 10 NANO! Now, the board comes with a preinstalled acrylic  cover and some brass standoffs. Right in the  

middle we have the main chip which is the heart  of this whole build. At both sides we have some   pins that we will be using for our memory modules  and some other ports that have different uses. On   the side, we can find a LAN port, and on the  other side the HDMI port, and a power port. Time to start our build. First, let’s take  our digital io board out of the bag. This   one has a super silent noctua fan already  installed. The three main buttons. On the  

side we have a digital audio port, a  power port, and a 3.5mm port. The blue   port on the side looks like a USB port, but  it is NOT one. This is the user port and it   has a different purpose. It WON’T take  a USB device, so don’t use it for that.

Now, the USB hub. This one is pretty simple. It   has a power port and several USB ports  including some providing power only. Alright! So now let’s take some of the brass  standoffs. Take some of the longer ones first  

and pass them through each of the 4 corners of the  usb hub. Then use the shorter standoffs to secure   them on the other side. You can use your hands  for this, but make sure not to tighten too much,   you don’t need to apply a lot of force,  just enough to secure the standoffs. Once that’s done, let’s check on the  DE10 NANO. First we need to remove the   acrylic shield. We’ll use a screwdriver  for this, but the screws shouldn’t be  

too tight. Once that the cover is out, it’s  time to remove the standoffs. You can also do   this using your hands or a tool if you have  one. Remember to be gentle with the board! Now, if you look at the de10 nano board on  the LAN port side, you will see a usb port   on the right side. We will be using this port  to make a bridge and connect to the USB hub  

using the USB bracket connector that I mentioned  earlier, remember? Here it is. As you can see,   the bracket has a USB connector on one side, and  some pin connector on the other. One side will go   to the DE10 NANO and the pin side will go on the  USB hub. Here you can see the pins on the USB hub. You can do this in any order, but I found that the  easiest way to connect them is to start with the   pins on the USB hub, and then gently slide the  DE10 NANO for the USB connector to gently fit. Once that is done and you have made sure  the pins are all making good contact. We  

can get some of those longer  standoffs and screw them all. IMPORTANT! As I said earlier, we are  putting together a mister FPGA using a   DIGITAL IO board. For this to work properly,  we gotta make sure we have the switches on   the DE10 NANO board in the right position.  Locate the switch labeled as SW3 and move   it up. They should all be down by default,  so we are only moving one of the switches.

With that out of the way, we can now attach our  copper heatsink. All you have to do is peel the   little plastic tape, locate the main chip  on the DE10 NANO board, and GENTLY put the   heatsink on top. Make sure not to move it too  much once it is set, and give it a little push. Now it’s time for the last piece of the  sandwich. The digital IO board. This one   has a nice and silent noctua cooler already  preinstalled by the people at

You can see that the board has two main rows of  pins. We’ll use those to align and connect this   board to the DE10 NANO. The orientation  should be given by the power plug port.   This one should be facing in the same  direction of the other 2 boards. Now,   make sure you are setting this board  correctly and pay close attention to all pins,   as they should make a good connection. Do not  apply too much force, since these pins can be  

very fragile. Don’t worry if you see less pins on  your digital io board than holes on the de10 NANO,   this is totally fine and normal. Align both  sides correctly, and once you are sure,   start making some pressure. Check in the end  that all pins got inserted correctly and fully.

Now let’s take some of the longer standoffs again   and screw them in order to  fully secure the IO board. Time to install our memory stick! This  one is a 128MB module V.3.0. One of the   reasons why I chose the digital IO  board is to ‘future proof’ my build   a little. Currently all cores can  be used with a single 128MB stick,   but this particular board will allow for 2 of  those sticks, so if I want to use a second one   in the future, I won’t run into any issues.  You cannot do that with an analog IO board. The memory module has a text printed on it  to let you know which side faces outward,   so keep that in mind. Now locate the pins on  the DE10 NANO that are next to the USER port,  

the one that looks like a USB port  but is not. And proceed to install   the module. Align the module and once  you are sure everything looks good,   start applying some pressure; you can also  wiggle the module a little bit. Be gentle! Everything looks perfect! We don’t want our precious build exposed, so  let’s build the case. This one is pretty simple,   if you have played with legos, then it’s pretty  much the same. We’ll start with the base. There’s  

a fine printing on it for you to know which  side faces out. You can use the small screws   included with the case to secure the base to  the bottom part of the build. Once that is done,   get the rubber feet and stick them to the base.  I decided to put them on each of the 4 corners. We can now take one of the two acrylic  side panels. Here I chose the one that   has the cut for the USER IO port and 3 USB  ports. Locate that on your build, and insert   the panel using the notches and facing in the  right orientation. The text should be readable.

Now let’s do the same with the  other side panel. After this,   pick one of the smaller panels. The one I picked  here has the cut for the optical audio port,   the HDMI, and the power ports. Once  again, locate that on the build,   and insert the panel on the base, then make sure  the other two side panels slide in and click.

Repeat the operation with the last small panel.  This one includes the cut for the LAN port. We’re almost there! Now we have to install  the last panel. This one can be tricky since   it also includes the buttons. The best way to  install this is to turn the panel upside down,  

and then install the buttons in the slots.  The buttons are thinner on one side,   so use this as a guide. Once you have installed  the 3 buttons, carefully turn your build around   making sure you are holding all side panels  with your hand. Once everything clicks,   turn your build around. Push those buttons to  check everything works, and that’s it! Last   step is to secure everything with the last  screws. Now contemplate the beauty of what   you just put together. Check that all ports are  aligned and that you have access to everything,  

aaaaand you are done. You are now  the proud owner of a mister FPGA! and there you have it the MiSTer FPGA build is  complete you got now your beefy sandwich there   now that your build is complete let's check on  the parts that you have left you might be a little   confused because you have a lot of cables and  that's understandable since your build has three   DC ports now this one here the splitter is one  of the cables that we have left now we won't be   using this one since this is used mostly for the  analog uh board and we have the digital one so no   use for this one now for the cables that we will  be using the first one is this DC to DC adapter we   will be using this cable to give some power to  the USB hub directly from the DE10 Nano so the   way to plug it is that you're going to locate  the two DC ports the one that comes from the   middle which is your DE10 Nano and goes to your  USB hub which is the lower one so just take your cable and plug it in making a bridge right there  this will leave you with one extra Port this one   goes directly to your power supply this is  convenient because your digital board has   an onoff switch to it so you will be able to  power it on and off at will without the need   for an extra switch now I know the DC to DC cable  is not the prettiest ever and you may feel like   your bill looks a little bit jank if this is  something that bothers you there is a fix to   that you can find a Mr fpga DC power Jumper in  both the Web Store located in   the United Kingdom and on I know  that it looks a little daunting at first but if   you follow the tutorial hopefully you didn't  run into many issues and um let me know in the   comments below what do you think if you had any  any problems with it I I am willing to help if I   can I will post all the links to all the places  where you can get the parts and   also the main a place to get your own DE10 Nano  board so I'm going to keep the links down below   hope you enjoy the video let me know what  you link I'll see you on the next one bye

2023-09-15 22:33

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