ЦИФРОВОЙ ТИНИВУП ДО 20 ГРАММ!! СОБИРАЕМ 1S ВУП НА HDZERO AIO5
Hi all! While someone is trying to wake up on January 1, and someone is finishing the salads left over from last year, we will try to assemble a new tyniwhoop on the HDZero system, to be precise on their AIO5 in size 65 mm. This is roughly the format. So let's get started. So, what to do on January 1? A leisurely meditative build by tyniwhoop on HDZero. To assemble, we will first need a screwdriver, a soldering iron, tweezers, and wire cutters, of course. Well, based on what it will all be put together. The frame will be 65mm from BetaFPV. I
will have a 5 in one Poletnik from HDZero, which, in my opinion, is called AIO5. Lesha Rodin has a review of it , you can watch it on the channel. My camera will be the cheapest, HDZero ECO is not the best camera, as they say, but whatever it is. I chose BetaFPV motorboats, again 0702SE at 27,000 kv. Why? Because in principle they suit me on air65. Yes, maybe not the best motorboats, but what they are. By the way, the kit comes with plastic
bolts, which allows us to lighten the weight a little. By the way, let's see the final weight that we get. Well, and accordingly, some mounting options, cameras on our frame, like these, thongs or some kind of canopy. Let's see which one will be better.
I'll probably try it first, using these self-printed thongs. So, all this rubbish that I scattered on the table in order to show it all off somehow beautifully can now be removed, not all, now I will need it right away . As usual, let's start with motorboats and frames. The assembly today will probably be closer to meditative, as I already said, the morning of January 1, does not particularly imply direct drive somewhere, but rather hints at the fact that you can look down. This is what I will be doing today during the assembly process, well, you can see how I do it with or without pleasure . By the way, if you watch my channel with any level of pleasure, I will be glad if you subscribe to it, like it, leave a comment, this all greatly helps promote the channel. Let's try to assemble it at
the lowest possible weight. The air65 frame has a peculiarity, this is what they say is an arrow, this is not actually an arrow, this is a place where you can put the tail of the canopy to raise the camera to a greater angle, you move the canopy away, shift it and, accordingly, the tail goes here, Kanopa refers to the thongs that come with them. So the arrow is just the back. in front of us here, and accordingly, we will somehow place the motorboats like this.
Why are there wire cutters on my table? If in the first act there are wire cutters hanging on the wall, then in the second they should click. And today they will click because I will not assemble with connectors. We'll make do with direct soldering, since I'm definitely keeping this tyniwhoop for myself. I use direct soldering. What else do we have in the kit here? Well, four connectors that we won’t need.
4? 5. I wonder why they give 5? One spare. But there are four bolts. They gave me better bolts. 5, and there are four connectors. Well, a super light antenna.
This is not even a dipole, but an ordinary thread. As far as I understand, everything is for weight loss. I don’t know if she’s visible at all or not on the camera.
Well, in general, this is what she looks like. AIO5 itself About this AIO As I already said, Lesha Rodin has a review. I will note two points about him.
The first point I want to say about it is that here the ELRS is soldered on the board. Yes, everything is fine. But this is not a series, it does not have a UART receiver. This is a receiver that is SPI.
And I’ve been wanting to say to SPI receivers for a long time now, sleep well, dear comrade, because they have their own limitations. Yes, SPI receivers have their advantages. They allow you to gain a little weight compared to traditional UART receivers. The same BetaFPV even manage to solder everything on the flight deck.
In this case, it is considered a UART, it occupies a UART. It has all the standard features of the ELRS UART, it can be flashed through the ELRS configurator, it has Wi-Fi and all that. SPI limits us in this. If, by the way, anyone is interested in what an SPI receiver is and what its features are, I will leave a link in the description to the doc about this. Read, it probably never hurts to learn a little something. And one more thing, for some reason the modern flyer is for some reason used in the microUSB Type-C slot.
And the second point is why I assemble 65 mm on such motorboats, because it has 5 amp regulators. At peak, I think, 6-8 Amps, I don’t remember exactly, but the point is that you are limited by the choice of motor that you can use, because on this flight you will not be able to use, for example, those same 1002 RCINPOWER that They consume 8 or 9 Amps, I don’t remember. In general, 5 Amps is the maximum you can afford, so in this case I will have 0702 BetaFPV. Well, we need to solder already. As they say, talking is not moving bags, but we still need to start assembling. As you can see, you don’t want to solder, because
such small things can be screwed up at any moment. So, why did I put it here? I put it here in order to see that my power wires would come out here. Yes. Therefore, it probably makes sense, so as not to bend them, to solder them not like usual, for example, we solder them to the pad, yes, but to solder them to the pad from the side. That is, like this, they have just these recesses and solder the wires into these recesses.
I'm absolutely sure that I'll probably short-circuit something here, as usual. Normal, not shorted. So they soldered the wire. Not very good, of course, negative soldering. There is a small needle here that has formed. Well, unexpectedly, such a little thing turned out to be heat-intensive.
So. The cable is on the side. Well, okay, okay. Then a terrible thought occurred to me, how to solder? Maybe the motors need to be unsoldered? Unsolder. The motors need to be removed.
In short, the funny thing is that in this frame the soldering points for the motors fall directly on its stiffeners. Therefore, it will not be possible to solder by installing the flywheel on the frame. Naturally, it is better to solder from below, because from above it will be inconvenient for us.
A bad head does not give rest to my legs, so now I will unscrew all the carefully screwed motors. First solder them, and then install them. I've never done this before, but why not do it? Let's respond to the YouTube comment right here.
John Doe wrote to us for half an hour, half an hour ago he was driving, he was thinking about whether to take the LiteVNA64 or not, and then this video. Yes, definitely, if you have the opportunity to take money, if you are involved in FPV, if you are involved in antennas, then this can save you at least some amount of money and nerves. Because, for example, LiteVNA64 has already helped me return the wrong antenna. Firstly, I found out that my antenna did not work, did not work at all. And secondly, yes, you will save nerves and money thanks to the fact that you can measure the antenna.
For example, one Lumenier arrived to me completely empty, that is, it was not visible on the device at all, I sent a complaint to the seller, attached a video of how I measured it, they replaced the antenna for me. At the same time, as I wrote in my channel, someone there also commented similar, if you install this on the receiver, it’s half the trouble, well, your antenna won’t work and that’s it. And if you bought crappy antennas and installed them on a transmitter, some powerful one, such as a 5-watt or even 16-watt video transmitter, and plugged in an antenna that is not really an antenna, then most likely the transmitter you will be destroyed, well, not by the transmitter and its output stage, but that in general are practically synonymous.
So yes, the LiteVNA64 can save you some money and hassle, but it's worth it, which allows you to measure up to 6 GHz, it certainly doesn't cost a lot of money. I bought mine on Banguda for $180, in my opinion, and this, of course, is not a cheap pleasure. The antennas have not yet stopped me from buying it, but at any moment you can see how I do it with a smart look, twist something there, look at the graph.
You don’t have to understand charts, the main thing is just to look smart. It's definitely a short circuit. What to do if you find yourself as crooked as me? Copper braid comes to the rescue. Just like that, we collect everything that can be collected for it. We unsolder the motor that we so diligently soldered. There is no longer a short circuit.
We repeat the procedure, trying not to repeat our mistakes again. It's badly soldered. Well, now we repeat the procedure with an attempt, this is the whole point. install it normally, lift the flyer back to the specialists in assembling whoops, please do not throw tomatoes at me, this is the second whoop that I am assembling, the tinywhoop that I am assembling myself , at the same time, as befits a normal engineer, without reading any instructions first, that is, I will read the instructions when there will be problems , but for now you can do everything at random, no instructions, no videos on YouTube, we don’t need something a little crooked in some places of the motorboat screwed up they scold the eco camera they say it’s not very good and the lux is better, but in the absence of a lux you have to have an eco , four wires fit in, great, that means your thong will be tinned beautifully, I really like the strange designation myself, I’m trying to understand what they meant why With video , and P - control if anyone has any ideas, by the way, write to me what the abbreviations si and pi mean, but nevertheless si is our yellow video white is ours control further we have ground and 5 volts and it seems that for today we have finished with the soldering iron this is the design we have got the wires, let's try to tighten it here a little well , the canopy is not for this purpose at all not for this purpose the canopy yes, we don’t tighten it too much, but nevertheless, we must sufficiently ensure good fixation; we’ll display it like this and this, well, of course we’ll display it like this, but well, of course, this turns out to be bullshit , but nevertheless, not even two hours have passed since in general, tyniwhoop is ready for testing, this thing would probably be good to fill with B7000 and most importantly , use a smoke-stopper to check that nothing is shorted, but since I don’t have a smokestopper for tyniwhoop , we’ll at least check that our plus and minus are not shorted out anywhere so, the minus plus has not finished anywhere well , no matter what, here, the finished result is called remember it like this before it burns Now I need to tweak it in beta , but I actually mercilessly cut out the betaflight setting because I didn’t actually make any settings there, the flight pilot had already arrived with some settings, as I understand from their mobula 6 on this very AIO and they were already made there I left the settings including rates and pids as they are, did not configure or change anything, the only thing I did in betaflight was change the direction of the motors and set their order and also flashed the regulators to fresh bluejay 96 kHz and this is what I’ll show you right now, listen, okay, let’s look at the ESC configurator, I’m even interested in this, if it arrived on a fairly ancient betaflight connection, great, we read it, and again you’ll need to connect the battery, I hope you It’s already cooled down a little, connected read settings, and here we, by the way, see that we redefined the motors there , here they are, bluejay 0.19
so, let me expand it to full screen and what I always recommend doing if you can’t save the config don’t forget to take at least a screenshot we are flashed with bluejay 0.19 and how much frequency we have I can’t see what frequency it is let's flash on 21 96 kHz flash at once I don't know if it will start with these settings, it won't start I know that the minimum startup power and maximum startup power need to move the checkboxes , we seem to be moving this checkbox here to the maximum and this rpm power protection, rampup, this one was set 3x well, let's set it to 3x ok, also Write settings but ok, and here we'll set it to 15. Let's do everything as Chris Rosser recommended to us in his video , yes, set it to 15 We also do Write settings if anything - we have a screenshot of what happened, we can always roll back the whole thing like this, here’s what I got, the controllers were flashed to 0.21 96 kHz , I
changed the settings to these settings , I changed them, I changed this setting I changed this setting and set it to 140 degrees temperature protection because it went off at this point, you can turn off , close chrome , go back to betaflight, all that’s left now is really check that we have a picture and we can move on to winding the propellers like this, there’s a picture, I don’t even know if there’s a recording, I think I turned on PIT-Mode and it doesn’t look like PIT-Mode , but no, now it looks like , well, Great , we've done the initial setup, now all that's left is to do a test flight. Well, what can I say about this quad? I've been flying it for several days now, both at home and outside, and I'm ready to share some of my conclusions. At the same time, I’m not sure why there will be more conclusions for a specific AIO or for my assembly, but nevertheless, let me throw it all together. So, the first thing I want to say about it and specifically about AIO is that it gets very hot. Even at 25 mW it calmly goes over 80-90 degrees if you configure it on a table, and at 200 mW even on the street, even in cool weather it can easily go over 100-odd degrees while you mess around with its settings . Take this into account, do the configuration in PIT mode, be sure to cool it with a fan, if you configure it on a table, do not overheat, because who knows how this multilayer board will behave with such a lot of heat. The second thing I can say about him is that he eats up his batka very much.
Yes, it is logical that this is a figure, but I did not expect such a strong consumption, and for the first time, for example, my flight at home, I set the battery to 1.87, if I remember correctly, that is, I practically destroyed the battery during the first test flight. Yes, very high consumption, if you even pay attention to how much it consumes even without reinforcement, just standing, it’s two too many amperes, it’s not clear where they go, but it eats like crazy. A load of 300 machs, he sucks out about, probably, as I remember, two or two and a half minutes, and I don’t fry too much, I’m not a racer, I’m not an athlete, I just fly for myself. I can’t imagine how he will eat up the batka while flying at some races on that same RaceGo, I think that there are two minutes there, that’s just the ceiling that you can get on 300 batka.
Regarding the AIO itself, there are some questions regarding the layout, that is, the layout is very dense, I understand that they probably couldn’t have placed it any other way , but there are some flaws, the same connector for flashing the hdzero module is not located very well, it is located next to with a ufl connector for the antenna, it will not always be convenient for you to get to it, and it will not always be convenient for you to arrange it in the frame. Another negative thing I want to write down is the SPI receiver, SPI receiver, SPI is calmly called, after all, this is already the last century and the same betaflight is already quietly refusing to support these receivers, they recommend that manufacturers switch to normal serial receivers, which work via UART, but yes, I understand that the SPI receiver allows us to reduce one chip on the board, allows us to gain a little weight, but in any case I would recommend hdzero and happymodel to try to do without an SPI receiver in the next version of this flight program . There are also questions about the signatures for the platforms, that is, the signatures for the platforms are quite small, but this is understandable, the platforms are also small and usually make up one letter, and this letter, in my opinion, is not always logical, the signature for the LED, I don’t remember , whether he was talking about assembly time or not, to the LED strip, this is the letter S, that’s how you want it, understand it, not L-LED, not anything else, this is the letter S, perhaps it’s an abbreviation for Strip, but at the same time, if all- still think logically, this is an LED Strip, that is, the first letter should still be L, but nevertheless, like this, well, okay, it’s easy to remember, but when assembling without instructions, some questions may arise. Otherwise, the quadric turned out quite well for its tasks, it is a single-board AOI on which the hdzero digital video system is wired, which allows us to have a tinywhoop in size 65 mm and weighing up to 20 grams, which allows you to take part in races, which allows you to freestyle in the park, which allows you to get some fun. Perhaps not the cheapest option, if you just want pure fun, then the analogue will still be preferable , at least in terms of price and a little in weight, and by the way, moving on to prices, is it worth assembling this quad yourself or buying a ready-made one ? your discretion. When assembled on my own, it cost me $182 for all components, a ready-made one will cost you $189, plus the finished one will also include a screwdriver, a spare canopy, props and a prop remover, that is, there is no benefit from assembling this quad yourself, at least financially you won't get it. So if you like this quadric, if you are interested in this topic, you can look at the ready-made solutions from the same happymodel and maybe it will suit you.
Well, that’s all for this quadric, thank you to everyone who has watched this video up to this point, subscribe to the channel, like, write comments, thank you to everyone and see you all again.
2025-01-14 07:40
