Replace CRACKED End on Equalizer Bar for CAT D10 Dozer | Welding Fabrication

Replace CRACKED End on Equalizer Bar for CAT D10 Dozer | Welding Fabrication

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how you going guys Kurtis from cutting  edge engineering today's job we have a   d10 equalizer bar that we will be replacing the  end on and the end we're going to be replacing   it with was one we made in a previous video for  those viewers who are unfamiliar with what an   equalizer bar is it basically is an equalizing  system for the track system on a d10 dozer the   center of the bar is mounted up to the chassis  underneath the engine and the bar then extends   out to each track frame so as one track frame  stands up it pushes the other track frame down   so it equalizes the movement from one side to the  other when they're walking over uneven terrain   rocks and logs and stuff like that they  have got the entire weight of the machine   sitting on them and when they are working  they can have a lot more weight on them if   they're pushing a load or trying to lift a  load and make a wall or make up a big heap   so they do cop an absolute flogging but before  we do that i have something i have to do that   has been pissing me off for the last couple of  years so we're going to go get onto that first so the windsock on the roof is sitting on  a pin and every time it changes direction   it squeaks if there's any wind the noises that  come out of that thing are just unbelievable so   we're just going to go up there and put some  grease in there and sort that problem out uhh pretty high up here right so i got that sorted out so this bar  actually came in to be line bored after it   arrived i did a quick inspection on the bar and i  found a crack in one of the bar ends and it's not   something you would attempt to repair because  they just don't last so the material's already   been broken someone's repaired it and it just  keeps failing so rather than go through that   again and again and again we're going to cut the  end off and replace it this equalizer bar is out   of a early model d10 and we know that because  the shape of the eye is slightly different to   the newer model machines and the bar ends that we  have manufactured so the new bar ends we have have   got a hump in the top of them where all the grease  ports are drilled and tapped into and they've got   a hump in them to put a bit extra material there  in order for strength because the early d10 bars   are common for failing through the grease ports  and this bar does not have the through grease   upgrade that the newer model machines have so  what that is that is a flat surface machined   here with a thread in that for a fitting to  go into and that hole is drilled all the way   through the bar out through the center of the  bar end to grease the bearing then there is a   pipe that goes from here it gets bolted inside the  equalizer bar there is a junction to a flexible   hose that runs up to a junction inside the engine  bay or to an auto greasing system so the machine   can get grease throughout the day it can be  quite difficult to get into where the grease   ports are on the equalizer bar when it's fitted on  the machine but these these older model machines   just didn't have that available at the time  someone's come up with it at a later date   it was a very good upgrade but they still have  the grease ports on top of the equalizer bar in   case you do get a blockage or you break a hose or  something like that so you can go there and do it   from there on the end of the equalizer bars there  are three holes that i have drilled and tapped   and they also have three holes from factory so you  have the center port where you put the grease in   and then you have two relief valves on either  side and they are relief valves so you don't   over grease the bar end and pop the seals out when  the fitter or the service tech is out there doing   a service on the machine he can pump grease  in and as long as grease comes out through   those two relief ports he knows that bar end  is fully charged with grease and ready for work   and he doesn't pop the seals at and create himself  an absolute nightmare this end is the original bar   end off the equalizer bar and you'll notice there  are no holes in the top of the bar for the grease   relief valves to be they used to be here they've  just been welded up so i did find holes on the   inside from where the grease relief valves were  but after it cracked someone removed those and   welded it up trying to get a little bit more life  out of it before they needed to do a change out   on the equalizer bar so what we need to do now we  need to get this set up and cut off this bar end let's check the bar the lock on so you can roll it locks it not happy with that flame that'll do right so that didn't go exactly to plan  i did run into a pocket which i was   unaware that it was there judging by the  shape of the wear plate someone's welded   to the bottom of the eq bar it should be here  but it's actually about 15 mil away from that   so it's the first time i've seen that  happen first time i've had that happen to me   but no big deal we're just going to grind  this up now and get ready to fit the new end right oh so we've got the eye tacked on in place  it is as parallel as it can be with the rest of   the bar you really got to get these things as  close as possible if not perfect if you are   slightly out with your pin center it's going to  create issues when the mechanics go to fit them   and it will create a little bit of drama with the  machine so because the bars are all cast out of   steel they don't generally have many flat areas  that you could reference from in order to get an   eye straight again so what i generally use is the  inside of the center point because it is machined   it is a flat surface and it is true  and concentric with the rest of the bar   they don't get any wear in there because  there is a big seal there protecting it   so i use one two three blocks i stand my straight  edges up off the center i use that to measure down   to the existing bar end and then i modify the  measurements in order to suit the new bar ends   because these are 120 mil thick and the other  ends are only 110 so you need to take that into   account when you're positioning these i double  checked my measurements to make sure everything   was in alignment and everything was in their right  position after i did that i tacked it in place and   then i tacked off my weld runoff plates so i'm  going to do a few passes uphill i'll back grind   each pass so i get 100 percent penetration and then we  can start to fully weld this out so the wire we're   going to be using to weld our new bar end onto our  equalizer bar is hobart xl525 it is a dual shield   wire so it has a flux on the inside but it also  has a gas that assists it which is 80 percent argon 20 percent co2 so i'm going to run that wire at 24 and a  half volts and six and a half meters of wire   a minute for the vertical ups once we get  it laying horizontally we can then wind it   up to about 27 volts and about seven and a half  meters of wire a minute being a dual shield wire it   is multi-positional not all dual shield wires are  positional but this wire you can weld vertical up   horizontally down hand overhead you can drag it  and you can push it it really comes down to what   application you're using it for because that  is a cast steel equalizer bar and the bar ends   we have manufactured are high tensile plate the  hobart xl525 wire is a fantastic match for those two   materials the weld joint actually stays a little  bit more flexible than other wires out there   on the market and because of that it is a great  match for the equalizer bars and other components   because they do take a lot of impact and  there's less chances of cracking i haven't   had any issues with cracking using this  wire on equalizer bars or other components so i don't want any impurities on the backside of  my first weld to then contaminate the joint on the   other side the cleaner you get the material  the better the joints going to be and that   is so i get full penetration on the joint from  the very beginning and then it's just a matter   of moving back and forth from side to side and  welding evenly so the eye doesn't pull one way right so now that we've got that bar end nice  and stable and everything's really really solid   what i'm going to do to finish welding this out  rather than flip it on the trestles every time   we're going to use our positioner righto guys so we've got the equalizer bar  set up in our welding rotator we have it   supported by our shop made roller stand  that stands good for a couple of tonnes   it's at a really nice comfortable height and i  don't have to do any heavy lifting anymore for   the 10 minutes it took to set this up this is  going to save me so much time i can just simply   turn it on spin it around weld the next side and  carry on until the joint is complete first thing   i need to do i need to give this weld joint  a bit of a preheat then we can start welding righto guys so the welding is  now complete on the new bar end the customer has asked can i please blend that  well down just to clean it up so the way i do   that i use my nine inch grinder to really take  the bulk of the material off after the nine inch   grinder i go in with a 60 grit sanding wheel  to just blend that in really nicely the sanding   wheels i'm using today are Sia abrasives they  are really good value for money but there are   other discs out there on the market that  are 10 times better than these but you do   pay for them the better wheel above this  one would be the 3m cubitron wheel   and they are just amazing if you haven't tried  one i recommend you do and a lot of people often   ask the question how much wire goes into a  job like this so what we started with today   was a brand new 15 kilo spool so i'm going to  pull that out of the machine i'm going to throw   it on the scales and see how much wire went  into putting that end on that equalizer bar so that is 2.6 kilo worth of wire went  into that weld joint and then i ground   a little bit off it so there you go righto  guys so the job is not complete just yet i   do need to set the line borer up on this  end and bore it to size if you remember   from a previous video when i manufactured  these i left these half a mil undersized   the reason i did that is because of  the amount of welding i need to do   on the bar end it would more than likely distort  the eye and the bearing wouldn't fit but the bar   is far too hot for me to do any of that today  so we'll come back to this job in the morning so the job's done now we've finished the  line boring everything went exactly to plan   we aren't going to fit the bearings or give this  a paint job our customer has the facility and the   guys to do the reassembly and then the paintwork  so that's it for our job thanks for watching my hat on straight yes it wasn't the other time i looked  silly oh my god it's only you that notices this i notice because it has to be straight,, why don't girls walk in uneven numbers cause they can't even [giggle] okay serious time now right  are you sure you say you got it   ready you think yep okay i  [ __ ] look out one take ready [Laughter] okay right righto guys so the [ __ ] where we going with that [giggle] righto guys so the welding is now complete on the new bar end [ __ ] that was right  right so the cup uh i'm just gonna start again so [ __ ] oh [ __ ] yeah i don't know where i was going [giggle] ahh i [ __ ] so yeah that's pretty much it   so there still are grease ports there so you can go there and do it from there there [giggle ]   we'll then set the line bore up and i will bore this end to size so i didn't bore the ends to a finished size i  left them under size i said a lot of sizes then someone wanted to see some more blue steel [giggle] oh my god you've been practicing i have been practicing   when no one's around i often look in the mirror  of the forklift to go that was more of a magnum [giggle] than a blue steel okay right so i've got the  equalizer [ __ ] that wind [ __ ] off train shut up where is it tip's covered in [ __ ] is there coolant in  that swarf bin [ __ ] yeah oh no i really enjoyed the smoke i'm like is people gonna  think our workshop's on fire sound is driving me up the [ __ ] wall shut up annoying thing [ __ ] terrible sound weeee ugh this is terrifying should i do a shot  down over the side stop moving oh my god sorry wait don't move too much don't  wobble it stay there don't move oh my god stop moving   oh this thing wobbles a lot can go up another 2 metres yet oh my god had enough now yes UGH you can actually drive around that  height nah look no no no no no stop no [nervous giggles] worried about heights ugggh that's better lower to the ground  much nicer nothing like rock solid ground ow go away toot

2022-06-14 18:18

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