Как Сделать ОТКАТНЫЕ ВОРОТА Своими Руками ►Новый Уровень Комфорта Вашего ДОМА
Yes, you are one step closer to making your own automatic sliding gate. Indeed, in this most useful video, we will clearly show the entire process of their manufacture, installation, configuration and, of course, we will calculate the final cost. And also, we will dispel any doubts about the need for automatic sliding gates on our site. We came to this conclusion from our own experience,
operating a car for the needs of an ordinary family, even with the old swing gates. Taking, picking up children from school, going shopping, going to work and many other arrivals and exits to the site in modern life make the need for sliding automatic gates simply vital . We made the sliding gates in parallel with the new fence. Many processes, such as procurement, preparation of materials, overlapped. The video about the manufacture of the original fence is not like everyone else already has on the channel. I am sure they will also be useful to you. And yes, we made these sliding gates
for the first time, we just understood the topic well from the beginning and tried to make them without any special jambs the first time. Then, we just lacked such a comprehensive video on this topic. That is why we decided to create this training video for you. And so the beginning of the manufacture of sliding gates was the cutting of profile pipes into a given size. Now the metal shaped pipe in such steel structures has replaced the metal corner almost everywhere. Since with the same weight,
and, accordingly, the price, it is structurally stronger. We purchased all the pipes in advance, along with the pipes for the rest of the fence. It turned out to be easier and faster to prime and paint pipes with targets at the initial stage. Since having folded them tightly together, they form a common large plane convenient for painting with a roller. Marking on metal is best done using a scribe with a winner's tip. In a simple version, it costs a penny, but serve almost all my life. To begin with, we cut the
main pipes for the gate frame with a section of 40 * 60 millimeters. Most of these lines meet at a 90 degree angle. And for a complete circular scald of such a joint, the workpiece must be cut off exactly at 45 degrees. The 45 degree angle is easy to mark on the pipe without a protractor. We put aside its own width of 40 millimeters on the edge, we get a square, drawing a diagonal in which it will exactly correspond to 45 degrees. And by turning the segment over, you can check whether it
will fit exactly at a right angle. After cutting with a grinder, a notch remains on the pipe at the end, which interferes with the subsequent tight joining. The easiest way to remove it is to flatten it with hammer blows. Thus, we have cut all the main parts. And the only flat place of
sufficient size for assembly was the terrace near the house. As with us, in most sliding gates, the bottom element is the guide rail. It is sold separately and often includes a set of idler rollers. We bought a 6-meter rail, and taking into account the predicted weight of the gate, the sagging of which is counteracted by a lateral extension with a diagonal, where the maximum spaced guide rollers will be placed, set the maximum possible width of the opening at 4 meters 13 centimeters. We carried out the initial assembly of the main
frame using welding magnets. After checking the geometry by comparing the diagonals, we grabbed this structure with welding tacks. The cut angles of the side diagonal pipe were measured right in place, tracing the plane of abutment relative to the base. It is also important to draw a cut line around the entire circumference of the pipe. So it will be easier to control the accuracy of the cut, when cutting with a grinder from hands, it
will be easier and the knot itself will dock with smaller gaps. Subsequent welding will be more accurate, the frame will receive less welding stress and, as a result, will warp it less. For strength, such gates are often filled with many short diagonals inscribed in small rectangles. It seemed to us more reasonable to enter two long diagonals going from the upper corners to the center, and, accordingly, we added a stand in the center. On these diagonals, as in principle for all pipes of the inner frame, we used a profile pipe with a section of 20 * 40 millimeters. In total, with such a cross-section of pipes, this kind of truss already had sufficient strength and
resistance to deflection in all planes, and to twisting. But, to fix the wooden sheathing boards, we cut three more veins into the structure. The one-piece pipe was placed on the section right in place at a time. Just on the marks, they also indicated the thickness of the cutting wheel. This way the cutting process proceeded much faster and the accuracy of the fit was not affected. And at this stage, the welding magnets really helped, initially fixing the part directly on the weight, in a precisely created place. For some reason, I used to ignore them, underestimating their importance. We decided to connect the lower vein with short posts to the guide rails. Thus, creating
a simple internal truss, which adds local deflection strength to the roller profile . For cleanliness and quality of welding, it is very important to knock down the scale from the tacks before the subsequent penetration. For these needs, from an old striker, we made a special hammer with a pyramidal point point on one side, and a vertical longitudinal point on the other. Such a welder's hammer perfectly knocks down scale, both on flat seams and on internal corner seams. The initial connection of all elements with welding tacks, followed by their complete scalding, distributes and balances the welding stress, minimizing the overall deformation of the entire structure as a whole. It is especially important to monitor the straightness of the guide profile. Whenever possible, the welding process, on a structural scale, is
best done from right to left. During welding, if you want to lean on the part with your free left hand, there will be less chance of burning. It seems to be a trifle, but I nevertheless grabbed the hot seam with my left hand . At this stage, the weight of the gate still allows you to maneuver with two pairs of hands,
that's why the gate should be sheathed after installation. Since, in our version, the casing will almost double the weight of the doors and they will become too heavy. Metal welding consumes a high current, which requires a thick, heavy cable to be connected to the holder . And the welding process itself requires almost millimeter accuracy and catching the arc at the long end of the electrode, with a heavy cable constantly pulling the holder, is not very convenient. Having thrown a couple of turns of the cable over the hand, it will already hang on the stronger forearm, stop pulling the handle, interfering with the welding process, and remove the extra load from the hand. After seizing all the details, we sequentially welded vertical seams on all joints, and then all horizontal seams on both sides of the gate. In well-visible places, the seams were slightly smoothed out using a grinder with a credit circle. And in the places of contact of the casing, the welding seams were cleaned flush with the plane.
This is how the finished frame looks like with overall dimensions of 2 meters 4 centimeters by 6 meters. Of which the main working length is 4 meters 23 centimeters. And yes, if you want to repeat the same gate on your site in the description under the video, I will add a link to this 3d drawing that I drew in autocad. At this stage, work on the gate frames is completed. We took them aside and proceeded to prepare the poles and support-counterweight foundation for the guide rollers. For two support pillars, we bought a square shaped tube with a treatment of 100 * 100 millimeters and a wall thickness of 3 millimeters. We decided that the strength of these pipes would be sufficient, even taking into account the fact that the pillars would rise 2 meters 15 centimeters above ground level.
On top of the pipes, it was decided to drown out metal plates. After welding and stripping them, we began to manufacture the foundation for the guide rollers. In fact, it should consist of a powerful channel with a welded reinforcement cage, but since this entire cage will subsequently be filled with concrete, we decided to save money and make it out of scrap metal. Yes, and a powerful one-piece channel, at hand, was not there either. Therefore, we will weld it from its constituent parts. At the heart was a piece of 160 mm channel, which we will increase in length up to 1.8 meters with pieces of channels a little smaller.
We decided to weld the main pillar, which will carry the upper guide rollers, to this foundation, at an exact angle of 90 degrees. So, a little later, we will simultaneously fill them with concrete, and in the end, this whole unit will be stronger. And during installation, they will not need to be aligned relative to each other. Further, we started digging a hole for concreting. At the time of work, we wanted to keep the old fence together with the gate, so that the site would remain more or less protected and we could sleep peacefully. Not so long ago, we have already added peace of mind to our lives, install the Ajax security system in the house . This is a professional system that comprehensively protects against robbery, flooding, fire and even controls the power supply of electrical appliances. Having spent a huge amount of
time and effort on building a house and repairing, most of all I want to completely secure it. That is why we decided to complete our system and expand it to the entire site. And for these purposes, Ajax already has a ready-made solution in the form of wireless outdoor motion sensors Motion Protect aldu.
Two infrared sensors eliminate 100% of false alarms. Such as swaying trees, insects and pets. Of course, the sensor is protected from any bad weather, rain, frost and heat. An intruder will not be able to block his visibility when the system is disarmed , because the detector has an anti-masking system and quickly detects sabotage by raising an alarm. And all Ajax sensors instantly react to an attempt to rip them off the mount, notifying you and the security company. And thanks to the smart Ajax socket, you can remotely turn on street lighting and scare off the burglar even before the guard arrives . After all, the intuitive
application makes it easy to configure and manage the entire system from anywhere in the world. Having secured the courtyard, we did not forget about the garages in which we installed a motion sensor with a motion-channel camera + a door-protection sensor. We easily installed the security system ourselves, but for stable operation, the manufacturer still recommends entrusting the installation to professionals. If you want to sleep peacefully, having protected your house or plot, then follow the link in the description, where you can order an ajax starter kit with a 10% discount. To prevent the old pillars from falling into the pit, we supported them with diagonals. And also, I had to digest the pearls and outweigh the old gates so that new pillars would not interfere with them from opening outward.
For concrete, we dug a rectangular hole with an approximate size of 2 * 0.5 meters and a depth of 1 meter. Taking into account the density of concrete, the approximate calculated weight of this parallelepiped will be 2 tons 200 kilograms. Its role will be not only in the supporting load,
but also the gate, when opening and closing, will hang from one side and the other, adding rolling moments to the foundation. This rolling will just resist its weight, squeezed from five sides by the earth. Although this unit, with a pillar and a foundation, turned out to be significant in weight, but a garden wheelbarrow made it much easier to move and install.
To temporarily fix this node in height, we screwed a horizontal board to it, under which we placed lining. And the board lining on the other side aligned this knot horizontally. The second post on the ground level was leveled with the same wooden board, and the final, zero level itself was marked in advance, for the entire fence using a laser level. To fix the pillars, pegs were driven into the ground in the longitudinal plane of the fence . And with the help of a horizontal river, we fixed the pillars to them. And the slopes will be held by a diagonal rail bolted to the same pegs. The 160 mm channel, in this unit, now seemed to me even redundant. Although I observed the use of 200 mm channels here, but in fact, knowing the exact location of the rollers, here, with a huge margin, a 100 mm channel would be enough. Indeed, in fact, its
role is reduced only to the reliable fastening of the rollers to the concrete and the convenient placement of the electric drive. Before the concrete was poured, we also prepared conduits for the wiring. A 32 mm pnd tube is perfect as these channels. Having finished all the preparatory work, we began to fill the foundation with concrete. For the concrete, 500 cement was used, and the overall ratio was 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sand and 4 buckets of rubble. The approximate grade of concrete turned out to be m-200. According to the concrete class, it is b15, its strength is quite enough even for the foundation of a house.
... When pouring, the concrete was compacted with a pair of slats. And, filling it flush with the ground, as a result, we got a concrete block, which, together with a metal frame, weighs about 2300 kilograms and is firmly fixed in the ground. Likewise, we poured concrete into the second table. This post stands here as an independent element and therefore bears less load. Therefore, the depth of the fossa is 80 centimeters with a diameter of 50 centimeters. In order not to stain the pillars, we could have wrapped them in foil in advance , but it seemed to us easier to wipe them with a wet rag. Ideally, you need to let the concrete stand for at least 3 days, but with us it generally stood like that for a couple of weeks. After which we dismantled all the wooden props and moved on to the next step,
to install the gate. Together with the 6 meter roller guide rail, we also bought the roller set itself. Which also includes: back and front plugs, together with a knurled roller; bottom and top gate catcher; adjustable top guide rollers; two main roller carriages that swing on a central axis and consist of 4 pairs of 303 bearings enclosed in a metal cage. And also, we bought a set of bolts with nuts for adjusting the carriages in height. Having marked out the places for the rollers, we cleaned them before the subsequent welding. It is very important to keep the rollers apart as wide as possible, as far as the protruding part of the guide rail allows . So the loads on these rollers, with lengthening of the counterweight arm,
will be less. Before installing the gate, we painted all the welding spots on the gate and on the posts. After carrying, the gate was first set in place on wooden lining. Which leveled them in height, flush with the rest of the fence. We installed two roller carriages in the rail, in their places.
The rail was muffled at the back, and the front plug with a knurled roller was mounted in front . We tried on the upper rollers, and using clamps, rigidly fixed the gate to the posts. By setting a clear gap between them with 2 centimeters thick wooden planks. First, we weld the upper guide rollers and adjust them by pressing them against the upper gate tube, leaving a small gap of a couple of millimeters for free play. To install the upper and lower gate catchers, you need to make small extensions. We made them from a corner. We center these nodes by pressing them to the gate and weld. We press the adjusting bolts of the roller carriages to the channel and grab each bolt at one point.
Well, the long-awaited moment of the first test has come. We unscrew the clamps. we remove all wooden linings, and check the ease of movement when opening, and the accuracy of hitting the traps when closing. Yes, everything worked out great. The carriage bolts can now be tightly welded . With these bolts it will always be possible to adjust the gate sag. So that the knurled roller, when closing, lifts the gate itself by a couple of millimeters. So the load will be
removed from the guide rollers, at the time of their downtime, with the gate closed. The gate, like the entire fence as a whole, will be sheathed on both sides with a burnt board. A detailed story about the manufacture, according to ancient technology, of such an unusual, colorful material that independently withstands weather conditions, we have shown in past videos. Under the boards we mark a clear step of 18 centimeters. We calculated this step in advance and applied it to the entire roulette wheel. So the marking process is many times faster. The outer boards are 150 millimeters wide. And we screwed each of them with 6 self-tapping screws. And, the
gap between the slats is about 3 centimeters. This gap was already covered by the inner lining of the gate with a 120 mm wide board. Now the old gates have already lost their use and we have safely dismantled them. Now is the time to make this sliding gate automatic. We welded a pair of outboard shaped tubes to the mounting plate of the electric drive , with their help we will raise the motor and install it in the right place.
For the wiring, we made a new hole through which the wires to the motor will be secretly connected . Just in this place 2 embedded pipes go out, going to both pillars. After checking the position of the electric drive relative to the gear rack, we finally weld its foundation. В принципе, электропривод можно разместить в любом месте на протяженности между этих двух роликов. У
нас это место предопределили выходы под провода. В комплекте с автоматикой мы также купили пять зубчатых реек, с ними идут длинные, цилиндрические гайки которые как раз и привариваются к направляющему рельсу. Первый кусок зубчатой рейки прихватили оперев её прямо на зубчатое колесо. Между собой реки выравнивали через такой же отрезок зубчатой рейки. Так шаг между зубьями, в месте соединения, будет идеален. Все остальные зубчатые рейки по высоте ориентировались по шаблону из деревянной рейки.
Которая задавала одинаковую для всех рек высоту от верха трубы. Отключив сцепление зубчатого колеса от редуктора мы проверили его уход по зубчатому погону. На данный момент, ход этой зубчатой рейки уже получился мягким и достаточно плавным. Но, во избежание последующего эксплуатационного закусывания или заедания от возможного мусора или грязи, всю зубчатую рейку нужно приподнять над зубчатым колесом от 0,5 до 1 миллиметра. Отверстие на зубчатых рейках под крепежные болты
как раз и имеют вертикально-продолговатую форму, для такой тонкой регулировки. В дорожном, асфальтовом покрытии нам пришлось прорезать и выкопать небольшую траншею. Так, как с этой стороны к мотору мы подведем питающий кабель. А, от мотора с автоматикой, к противоположному столбу, будет идти двухжильный, сигнальный кабель к инфракрасному датчику. Проводку в закладные
трубы протягивали с помощью стальной проволоки. И первые три двухжильные кабеля затянули в близлежащий столб. Один двухжильный кабель пойдет наверх столба, к сигнальной лампе. А основной инфракрасный датчик требуют для подключения четыре живы. Поэтому, к нему мы провели 2 двухжильных кабеля. В траншею запускаем двухжильный кабель питания плюс двухжильный сигнальный.
Чтобы проводка в земле была защищена от повреждений, запускаем ее и в 20 миллиметровую пнд трубу. Питающий кабель протянули к основному вводном у электро-щитку и также мы установили защитную автоматику. Все выходы проводов и переходы между закладными трубами загерметизировали силиконом. Питающий кабель имеет сечение медных жил в 1,5 миллиметра квадратных. Он
может пропускать ток силой до 15 ампер, а этого вполне хватает практически для любой автоматики раздвижных ворот. Естественно, номинал защитного автомата нужно подбирать ориентируясь на максимальный потребляемый ток именно вашего электропривода. В нашем варианте, мы поставили 6-ти амперный защитный автомат. Сечение жил во всех остальных сигнальных проводах мы выбрали в
0,5 миллиметра квадратных. Токи там минимальные и такой сечение жилы более чем достаточно. Сигнальную лампу установили на верх столба, там она отлично заметно со всех сторон. Инфракрасные датчики, который обеспечит аварийную основу поворот, в случае попадания в их поле зрения препятствия, мы установили на высоте около 40 сантиметров от земли. Подключение проводов к
ним описано в их же инструкции и разобраться в ней не составит особых сложностей. Точно так же не сложно будет разобраться по инструкции с подключения проводов к конкретной автоматики для раздвижных ворот. Там же будет описана установка концевых магнитов на зубчатую рейку, привязка радио-брелков управления и настройка схем их работы. В разных вариантах автоматики, эти инструкции немного различаются, поэтому здесь подробно останавливаться мы не будем. И вот, по завершению всех финальных штрихов, автоматические раздвижные ворота пришли в нашу жизнь и они реально изменили качество жизни в лучшую сторону. Теперь даже пешком выходя из двора, приоритет отдается не калитке, а само открывающимся порталу.
Каких-то лет 30 назад, поколение наших родителей, об этом могли лишь мечтать. Ну, а теперь о стоимости. В общее материальные затраты вошли. Стальные профильные трубы для каркаса ворот, центральных столбов и для вас мы подсчитали стоимость нового швеллера для фундамента, плюс 12-ти миллиметровой арматуру и того 170 $. 6-ти метровый направляющий
рельс с комплектом ролика и заглушек 90 $. Бетон на фундамент ворот и столбов еще 60 $. Доска на двустороннюю зашивку плюс затраты на ее обработку 50 $. Кстати, почти столько же стоило бы односторонняя зашивка ворот профнастилом. Автоматика с зубчатой рейкой, пультами, плюс сигнальная лампа, плюс инфракрасные датчики 260 $. И другие мелкие затраты краска, электроды, отрезные круги, саморезы и т.д. еще 30 $. В итоге, суммарные затраты по материалам составили 660 $. Трудовые затраты оценить очень сложно,
так как подобная съемка всего этого процесса увеличило его длительность в разы. Но, если бы нам пришлось повторно изготовить такие же ворота, то сейчас мы бы затратили примерно 10 человеко-дней. Эксплуатируя эти ворота уже 4 месяца мы можем с уверенностью сказать, что автоматические раздвижные ворота принесут комфорт и удобство каждому частному дому. Но утверждать,
что их обязательно нужно изготавливать собственноручно мы не можем. Любая работа будет выгодно только тогда, когда она будет приносить еще и удовольствие. По крайней мере, в своей жизни мы стараемся поступать именно так. Мы надеемся, это видео вам понравилось.
И вы провели эти полчаса с пользой. Если у вас есть замечания или опыт на эту тему, пожалуйста дополните это видео своим комментарием. Основная тема нашего канала, это строительство и обустройство собственного дома. Мы уже начали работу над масштабным полным видео о поэтапном строительстве каркасного дома. В котором мы реализовали множество нестандартных решений. В нем наглядно покажем весь процесс строительства, разъясним технологию, посчитаем стоимость, расскажем о плюсах и минусах каркасника, покажем ошибки и их решение, и дополним все это 3-х летним опытом проживания с выводами. Кстати, подобный фильм о бюджетом строительстве газобетонного дома, который мы помогали строить родителям, уже есть на канале. Увидимся...
2021-02-21 05:46
